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Do we really need another SIP tutorial??

Yes, we do.  And the reason is that not all of the tutorials available will work for everyone.  After searching, I couldn't find anything that would work for me right now and created something that would.

So here it is everyone.  I've been fighting gnats for some time now and feel like I'm losing the battle and my mind.  A few weeks ago I didn't even know what an 'SIP' was and now I have 3 of them in my kitchen.  We all know about the benefits of an SIP, including gnat control.  The Alaska Grow Bucket or Global Bucket systems are fantastic.  But the double 5 gal. buckets are not really practical for indoors this time of year.  Franks (FMD) $2 SIP is brilliant and would work, if only the local Dollar Tree stores had the correct size buckets.  After losing sleep, I took a trip to Home Depot and decided to build my own SIP's with parts that are readily available in any Home Depot.  Here is how I built my rookie SIP's.  Let's go the mattresses...

Parts:


The links are for illustration only.  You can find the bucket lids sold separately and do not have to purchase the 3-pack.  You don't have to get 100 cable ties, you can get a smaller package.  Mixing container has 'HDX' in big letters across the front.  You can't miss it.  Buckets, mixing container and lid are found in paint department of the store.  I used landscape fabric to prevent the potting mix and roots from finding their way into the water chamber.  Burlap will probably do the same thing.  The 3/4" Schedule 40 PVC is sold in 10' sections and is very inexpensive.

Although the parts used for this SIP are pretty inexpensive, there are cheaper substitutions available.  The parts presented in this build are easily acquired because they are available in one place all the time.  So for me, this satisfies a requirement necessary for an easy construction.  In the end, a similar bucket can be constructed for less money.  But, if I needed to construct another SIP right now, I can do so with one trip to the store.

Tools:

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  • Drill
  • 1/4" Drill Bit
  • 1 1/8" Hole Saw (Not necessary; you can use a utility knife)
  • Utility Knife
  • Black Marker
  • Tin Snips (Regular scissors will do just fine)
  • Hacksaw
  • Ruler
  • Straight soldering iron (Not shown and is not necessary; you can use a utility knife or drill)
Procedure:

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1.  Place a 2-gal. bucket upside down on a table.  Set your 1-qt. HDX container on the 2-gal. bucket, upright and a little off-center as shown in the pictures.  Draw a circle around the bottom of the 1-qt. container with your marker.  Remove the container and cut the circle out with your utility knife.  If you're feeling frisky, you can use a hole saw to cut out the circle.

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2.  Place the 1-qt. container upright onto a table.  Measure 2 1/2" up from the bottom and place a mark with your marker.  Do this in several locations and then draw a line around the cup.  Use your snips or scissors and cut around the line.  This will be your wicking cup and will eventually be placed into the hole that you just cut into the bottom of the bucket.

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3.  Use your soldering iron to melt holes into the wicking cup that you've just created.  I'm not married to the idea of using a soldering iron to make the holes, it just works for me.  If you do, make sure to do it outside and please be careful.  You can probably use a drill for this, too.  Just make sure to do it before you cut the bottom off the 1-qt. container.  The container will be a little more stable that way.  You can also cut a series of 6-8 vertical slits in the cup.  Turn the cup upside down and pierce it with your utility knife where the side meets the bottom.  Cut downwards toward the opening but don't cut all the way through to the opening.

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4.  Use your 1 1/8" hole saw to make a hole in the bottom of the bucket, across from the large hole that you just cut out.  Make it close to the rim of the bucket.  You can also do this using a utility knife.  Place a piece of the PVC pipe at the location of the smaller hole as shown in the picture.  Draw a circle around it with your marker and cut out the circle with your utility knife.

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5.  Take your 1/4" drill bit and drill holes all around the bottom of the bucket.


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6.  Place the wicking cup into the hole to test for fit.  Place the wicking cup bucket into the second bucket.  You may have to adjust (clean up) the larger hole in order to make the wicking cup sit correctly.  It should be snug but extend to the bottom of the second bucket.  It will also protrude about 3/8 - 1/2 of an inch into the top bucket when seated correctly

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7.  Measure and cut an 18" length of PVC pipe with your hacksaw.

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8.  Draw the lines to make a cutout on one end of the pipe as shown.  The cutout will be an outlet for water to flow freely into the watering chamber of the SIP.  Measure 1" up from one end of the pipe and draw a line about an inch long.  This will be the height of the cut.  Draw vertical lines from the ends of your 1 inch line to the end of the pipe.  Now use your hacksaw and cut the outline as shown.  Cutting the pipe this way worked for me, but you can get away with drilling a series of 1/4" holes all around the pipe.  Make the holes extend to at least 1 inch up from the bottom of the pipe.

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9.  Place the PVC pipe, cut end down, into the smaller hole in the bucket.  Push the pipe all the way down to the bottom.  Make the pipe straight along the side of the bucket and mark 2 spots on either side of the PVC pipe on the outside of the bucket using your marker.  Drill the 2 spots with your 1/4" drill.  Secure the pipe to the bucket using the 8" cable tie by threading the cable tie from the inside to the outside of the bucket, then back into the other hole.  This will keep the cable tie 'buckle' on the inside of the bucket.  Secure the cable tie and cut off the excess with your utility knife.

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10.  Lift the watering pipe a little bit above the bottom of the wicking bucket as shown.  The cable tie should be tight enough to hold the pipe in place.  Place the section of landscape fabric into the bucket and push down into the wicking cup.  Put it behind the watering pipe and try to smooth it against the bottom and sides of the bucket.  It won't be pretty, but it will do the job.  Using your utility knife, score an 'x' into the landscape fabric where the watering pipe will be.  Open up the hole with your finger and push the watering pipe through to the bottom of the bucket.

IMG_4917.jpg IMG_4918.jpg IMG_4928.jpg  IMG_4929.jpg  IMG_4931.jpg 

11.  Start adding your potting mix into the wicking area of the bucket.  Fill the wicking area and compact with your hand.  Keep filling and compacting in the center of the bucket.  When the potting mix gets high enough, add the plant and fill in with your potting mix all around.  Add fertilizer all around the edge of the bucket as shown if you choose.

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12.  Using your 1 1/8" hole saw, make a hole in bucket lid, as close to the inside of the larger lip as possible as shown.  Using your utility knife, cut a hole in the center of the bucket lid using the imprinted ring as a guide.  When the hole is complete, cut a slit from the edge of the hole to the outside of the lid.  Place the drilled hole of the lid over the watering tube as shown.  Split the lid at the slit, open it and work it around your plant.  Push the lid all the way to the bottom as shown.  It's not necessary to lock the lid into place on the bucket.  The lid lays just fine on the top without locking it down.  If you want to lock it down, go right ahead.  

The lid on the bucket method works for me.  You don't have to use a lid.  Just mound the potting mix around the plant about 1 inch higher than the edge of the bucket.  Cut a section of black garbage bag large enough to place around the plant and cover the top of the bucket.  Place a slit in the section of plastic from the center to the edge.  Place the slit around the bottom the the plant.  Wrap and secure around the top of the bucket with rope or bungee cord.

At this point the SIP is complete.  Since this will be utilized indoors, I did not drill a drain hole on the side of the bucket.  The watering chamber was pre-measured and you can safely add 40 oz. of liquid to the chamber through the watering pipe.  When the SIP is finally moved outside I will drill a 1/4" drain hole about 2" from the bottom of the outside bucket.

Edit:  1/4" hole was drilled in the side of the outside buckets before moving them outside.  The hole is definitely needed as an air exchange for the roots.  See posts 10 and 11 below.  Watering with about 30 oz. at a time.

Time to complete first SIP - 1 Hour
Time to complete second SIP - 15 Minutes
Initial cost - $29.61
Cost per SIP - $11.31

...Figs plants living in a gnat-free environment - Priceless!


Very professional tutorial !

Thank you.

Danny,
Thanks for posting your SIP build.
What's your potting mix recipe? And how is it wicking? Thanks.

Pete,

Good question!  Potting mix is simply 50/50, MG Potting soil/Perlite.  2 Tablespoons MG Tomato, Fruits & Vegetables Shake 'n' Feed added (UPC 073561008563).  Soil is wicking perfectly.  I can see the waterline through the bottom of the SIP's and they're all about the same now.  A little more than half of the initially added water has been wicked up.

Very nice. 

When I used 50/50 MG Potting Mix/Perlite,  The wicking didn't seem to work well.  But adding a little bit cow manure (about 10-15%) helped a lot.

Hey, what brand/product are you using for Perlite and are you screening it? I ask because I bought a bag of MG perlite and losing about 40% of the product in screening process. Not sure what I should be doing to keep from so much waste...

Just finished using up my last bag of MG Perlite and won't buy it any more.  It's not bad, but I found that Coarse Grade Thermorock perlite supplied by Home Depot in 2 c.f. bags is better.  I don't screen the perlite.  Ordered 4 bags right to the house with free shipping.

Thanks for sharing your results and methods!

Thanks for that very detailed presentation.  I am under the impression that the enhanced gas exchange that hole on the side provides would be good for the roots.  It would be an entry point for gnats but one could tape a patch of landscape fabric over it.  It's something to consider but you have to do a side by side comparison to know if it really matters.  By the way, how will you prevent gnats from entering the hole in the top?

Rewton, Thanks for bringing that up.  I did give the drain hole on the side some thought and was a little concerned that the hole might provide some beneficial exchange of air for the roots.  This SIP is built using the same concepts as any other, only a little smaller (It is by no means a "mini" SIP).  As such, and following the same basic principals as any others, I did not find any mention of drain holes providing needed air/gases for the roots in any of the tutorials that I looked at.  That doesn't mean the drain holes are not necessary.  They just don't work for me right now.  I am watering with Gnatrol water and I don't want it to spill out in the house.  When the plants are moved outside in the spring, I will definitely drill the holes.  If you happen to find any articles relating, please let me know.

As for the gnats getting in the top; I'm hoping that any gnats left over will shy away from the dry soil on top.  If not, I am still using yellow sticky traps, carnivorous plants, Gnatrol and a bevy of really bad curses.  The option to easily close the hole in the top with a small piece of plastic is always available too.

Very nice presentation.  You said you used Shake n Feed.  According to the label it is for new and existing flower and vegetable garden beds,trees and shrubs.  I contacted Miracle Grow and asked them why not potted plants and they said use Osmocote for potted plants.  Can anyone give me a reason why Shake n Feed would not work for container plants?

Chapman, I should have specified which MG Shake 'n Feed.  Using the Tomato, Fruits & Vegetables Shake 'n Feed (UPC 073561008563).  Made the correction in the post above.  Thanks.

Greenfig, I read your post and started looking at self-watering planters again.  An hour later I shook my head and realized why I decided to build my own SIP's in the first place.  Unfortunately, none of the local stores had any self-watering planters in stock and I needed them now.  My build is not exactly the cheapest, but all the parts required are available pretty much all the time in almost any big box store.  To me, readily available parts and ease of construction/use is everything.  

Differences?  Don't really know without having the planter in front of me.  Other than the Fiskars being more aesthetically pleasing, I'll guess the SIP's that I constructed:

  • might hold a little more water than the Fiskars.
  • are probably a little neater for indoor use.
  • are easier to work into an automated self-watering system.
  • have parts that are easily replaced and available from any of the big box stores.
  • might be a little more stable.
Some of those self-watering planters can get expensive but the Fiskars planter looks pretty good.  Reviews for it are also good.  Now the wheels are turning, Greenfig.  I just ordered a couple from Amazon.  When they come, I'll take it apart, see what makes it tick and post all the findings in this thread.

and it's more fun to make your own :)

Danny,

Thanks for your detailed response. I bought my SIPs at a local Target, they are very similar to the Misco ones. I got the largest pots and the figs seem to like them. The growth was quite substantial. I cannot say it was much better than from the black nursery pots since we have plenty of sun in the SoCal and the plants grow like crazy given enough air and water.
The price I paid was about 30% cheaper than on Amazon.

Let me know how you like the Fiskars planters.

Pete, if you make one or two or three, it is fun. I needed more than that, making more than a dozen is not fun ... Also, I needed some that look good since they were visible from the street.

Greenfig,
Homemade SIPs can be as simple or as complicated as you want to make them. Any container can be converted into a SIP., and most can be done simply and inexpensively. note the attached link with the modifications that were done to standard Fiskar planters. A PVC fill pipe and spun landscape fabric (to cover the bottle reservoir) could be added for aesthetics.

http://www.insideurbangreen.org/sub-irrigation-aka-self-watering/

Quote:
The plants are growing in adequately sized Fiskars Veranda planters purchased on Amazon.


R-APlanter_3 R-APlanter_4
Click image to enlarge


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This is what it looked like right after the installation.

Another link with explanations...
http://www.insideurbangreen.org/balcony-gardening/

And scroll through this Flickr picture file...
http://www.flickr.com/photos/greenscaper/4005397507/in/set-72157604071874390/

PlantSpa SIP.jpg 
I personally purchased a few of the smaller 9 inch MISCO planters to test their use for fig cuttings because they are only $2.97 at Walmart. The 7 inch is $2.49 and the larger sizer are usually stock items in spring and summer.


Very professional tutorial......... Bravo....... And the pics is say it all......
Thanks for the sharing


Ong

Jakarta ,Indonesia

Danny,
  I can't wait to get some free time to read your tutorial thoroughly.
Regarding Frank's (FMD) use of buckets from the Dollar Store -- I believe the merchandise at the Dollar Store is somewhat seasonal.  When I first read FMD's tutorial, I went to the $ store and bought 2 sets of buckets...with the intent to go back and get more after I worked out some details.  When I went back weeks later there were still some stacks of the generic outer pails around, but the "summery" inner pails were all gone, along with other things that had that summertime feel. 
Cheers,
Jim

Jim,

That's exactly what I found, and that's what really prompted me to construct my own. I have a dozen of my own "outer" buckets now. Going to have to wait until summer to get the inners.

Great build.  You can call it 'the one trip SIP'

Danny,

Do you keep your figs to the size that will fit these SIPs, or do you transplant to a larger container later?

Another great question.  My plan is to eventually have a field of mobile fig trees.  The field behind the apple tree in the center of the picture below is the one that I'll be using.  

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During the growing months it gets at least 12 hours of sun per day.  There is a year round spring (cleanest and best tasting water that you've ever had in your life) that breaks the surface close by; water is not a problem.

So to answer your question, 3 years.  That is the time when I'm guessing the trees will be large enough to transplant into a larger SIP's (Like Bill's Figs in NJ).  This is based on nothing more than what I've read and not in practice.


Still waiting for my self-watering pots from Amazon.  Have been reading these 2 threads in anticipation.

http://figs4funforum.websitetoolbox.com/post/my-partial-container-garden-6188278

http://figs4funforum.websitetoolbox.com/post/nh-drivewayfarm-shots-5965155

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