Pete, I agree 100% with the fertilizing of young plants. This year I started watering with a diluted fertilizer every day. My newly rooted plants have looked great. I don't know if it's the fertilizer or the varieties this year, but I've pulled more figs off this winter. I actually left a few on because of how quick they'd put out another. In one of the pictures you will see a newly started plant with 12" leaves.

Ruuting,
Thanks, you're welcome.


Chad,
Thanks for commenting and sharing your info.
I posted a simple comparison of Foliage Pro to dilute MG last year and they were very similar in nutrient content (@ 1 teaspoon MG / gallon.)


Art,
Thanks for commenting and sharing your info and pictures.
Those are some some healthy looking plants.
What fertilizer are you using and what is the dilution?

Pete, The fertilizer that I am using on my starters is made by Pennington. It's very similar to Miracle
Grow. I just happened to get a very good deal at the end of last year. It's 24-8-16 in tablet form. They are made for the Pennington sprayer. The tablets are similar to a chlorine tablet. I'd just drop one tablet into a 5 gallon bucket full of water.
I would take a roughly 3/4 full water can and fill the rest with the fertilizer. I just eyeball it. Probably different ratio every day.

Art, Holy Mackerel! Are those from this year? From Bill Saxon?
That's insane! I need a greenhouse...

Edit - I just read your post again, they are from this year!
Grow, babies, GROW!

Rui, They are growing under T5 lights in my basement. I think Tomorrow I will pot up a couple and put them in the greenhouse. Then they should really take off.

That one with the large leaves I think is going to be promising. I found that one last summer and it never gets covered. (No dieback this very, very cold winter) Only one in my area that didn't die to the ground.

everything in moderation. but even little fertilizer goes far with figs. i usually fertilize my young trees once they have roots. but if they don't, i fertilize them to see if that will push root or top. once they are in 1 gal, i usually don't fertilize for few weeks. once they are settled in 1 gal, i start fertilizing them with weak MG. about 2 tiny scoop on the green scoops that comes with it. once the roots start to circle around i go full strength. 

too much fertilizer can cause possible issue, but little when young can push the growth a lot. 

I fert newly rooted cuttings every 10-14 days with MG. The scoop MG provides has a big end and a small end. I use 2 level small ends to a gallon of water.  I only water where the roots are. 

Pete im honored.

Art,
Thanks for the reply.
It may be pushing it, but could you please take a picture or post the Guaranteed Analysis on the back label of the container, I'm interested in the micro nutrients for comparison, I believe it may have a Sulfur content. I checked on the web and the analysis nor a picture is posted. Thanks.


Pete,
Thanks for commenting and posting your info.
Yes, the idea is to not over fertilize and provide a low dose that can be safely used by the young plant.


KK,
Thanks for commenting and posting your info.
The small end of the MG scoop is 1/2 teaspoon, so you're fertilizing with 1 teaspoon / gallon of water.


Martin,
Credit where credit is due, Thanks.

Pete,

Excellent topic.

I have never been a fan of fertilizing young rooted plants or a big fan of using MG.
I do use MG from time to time but I prefer 10-10-10 or 20-20-20.

But this year I rolled the dice and did both.
I fertilized my young rooted plants using 1/3 to 1/2 dose with MG all purpose fertilizer and these plants are taking off!

But one question,
Do you think a fertilizer (of any type) can have a negative effect on gnat or any other insect or pest larvae?
Has this thought ever cross your mind?

Rafed,
Thanks, and thanks for commenting and sharing your info.

Yes, I actually have observed difference between Organic fertilizers, Miracle Gro fertilizer and increased insect and microbial activity including Fungus gnats. There is always more activity in the mixes that contain Organic fertilizers and much less in those fertilized with Miracle Gro. That's why I had always posted on my use of only dilute MG on cuttings up to the 1 gallon stage. Also most Organic fertilizers promote fungal growth directly (mycorrhizae) or indirectly which attracts fungus gnats.

My only problem with most 10-10-10 or 20-20-20 fertilizers is that they do not contain micro nutrients. For container grown plants these nutrients have to be added since they are essential.

Pete,
Thanks for the info. I am fertilising my young plants once a week with diluted fertiliser. They indeed grow faster than those that I didn't fertilised.

Norhayati

Thanks Pete,

I always enjoy your posts. Keep up the good work.

Norhayati,
You're welcome and thanks for commenting and sharing your info.


Rafed,
You're welcome.
Thanks.

I was fertigating my containers between 2006 and 2010 (when I was growing in containers) with a Dramm Syphonject.  It is a brass nozzle that fits between the bib and the hose.  A small hose comes out of the side and goes into a bucket with the nutrient solution.  When the water is turned on, the solution is sucked in.  When it worked, it was great, but it was temperamental.  It definitely beat the hell out of hand watering 130 trees.

Pete, now that I am going back to growing in containers, "automated fertigation" is a large part of the motivation of using a hydroponic system.

Hi Pete great thread. For two years I have been following Jon's advice to soak with water and then one hour later water with a half strength miracle gro solution. All I know, it has produced impressive growth for me for the last two years. This is different from fertigation, which if I understand you correctly, should be the exclusive form of watering done on a 1-gallon young plant, as an example? Thank you.

James,
Thanks for commenting and sharing your info.
The SIP (Sub-Irrigated Planter) in combination with a nutrient solution (dilute fertilizer) reservoir is the next step in my fertigation experiment (automated fertigation). After researching the Nutrient Solutions (Fertilizers) that were being used for Hydroponic Culture I realized that many of the Guaranteed Nutrient Analysis used on Commercial Hydroponic crops are very close to those that I had already been using successfully for feeding cuttings and 1 gallon fig trees. I will be testing to see if continued fertigation will work for fruiting trees.


Rafael,
Thanks for commenting and sharing you info.
I followed the same advise, but soon realized that watering with 1/2 strength was enough to insure that there was no damage to younger more tender plants. Since I never let my potting mix "dry out", I have stopped the practice of pre-wetting the mix before fertilizing for older plants and just fertilze more often to get the same dose (full strength is 1/week and  1/2 strength is 2/week).
Yes, fertigation is much closer to hydroponics in practice. The plant is always watered with a weak fertilizer solution. In the case of Miracle Gro All Purpose, you are using the recommended dose but spreading it over the entire recommended time period at 1/3 strength (1 teaspoon).

Pete, You are right it does have a sulfur content in it. What are your thoughts?

Sulfur is a needed element for plants, even for plants that tend to like alkaline conditions.  

Art,
What WillsC said...
Sulfur is a necessary nutrient. Its often supplied after the chemical decomposition of other fertilizer ingredients.
Thanks for the reply...
The Nitrogen ratios (nitrate and urea) are also balanced.

I tried your foliar feed late last season Pete, I shouldn't have as it was too late in the season and it worked too well, promoted too much soft growth when I did.  That being said the miracle grow foliar feed works well as you posted at the rates you posted, the only thing I did was add some iron chelate (6% stains everything blood red if you get it on your hands or clothes).  I know you will have great success with your fertigation program as it works well in Spain for figs and other fruiting plants around the world.  I am just learning more about gypsum and it's benefits so I am curious how much sodium the miracle grow has in it (probably not much is my guess) but I have learned that magnesium and sodium will make soil heavy and clump up, then with addition of gypsum and high calicum ag lime (little magneisum) you can lighten the soil.

 I only bring this up as I believe you are still adding dolomite lime to your container mix, you have excellent results as it goes but I wonder if gypsum would help at all in addition to the lime application?  It will also help balance the potassium and phosphorus levels in a soil while help keep calcium more available, although it has been suggested that it should only be added after getting most of your calcium from ag lime and dolomite lime so not much is needed compared to the limestone.  I am assuming you don't have any issues with these elements (especially from your pictures) but have you ever thought about adding gypsum for any reason or have you used it with not much effect as some would claim it has?

Chivas,
The Miracle Gro Analysis doesn't list any Sodium, but there is probably trace amounts.
Yes, I always use Dolemite Limestone, I add it to everything.
I actually acquired some gypsum to try in the Hydroponic/SIP tests on older plants. I'm using it for its quicker breakdown and absorption.  I'm also adding small amounts of Ironite Supplement (4.5%) this year, it includes Sulfur (10%), it made a very noticeable difference in plant growth last year but I'm still testing its use.

Pete,
You always post such good information and I thank you. I am starting your method today!

What type of gypsum are you using?  I tried a granular one last year, I wouldn't mind to find the finely ground one as I think it would be better for absorption as well.  I put 1 cup on a 18 gallon pot last year, how are you applying it and approximately how much are thinking to use?

I think you will have nothing but good luck with that ironite, I am hoping the blood meal I am trying as fertilizer will help for iron and the molasses I will be adding as well, it may not be enough iron though.