I'm amazed Francisco .
Learning somethinng every day,nice way of going at it.well explained too.
Thank you for the effort aplied on the subject,much apreciated.
Wis you the best

Fellows,

IMHO is, as said before, practically impossible to get the cambium line 'parallel' or aligned between stock and scion. This line is thinner than a line drawn by a sharp pencil!
Take a while to watch this same contractor exercising the same concept when doing side grafts..

Thanks for the links Francisco.

I'm surprised that most grafting guides (sketches, etc.) I've seen do not say to deliberately orient the cambium lines at small crossing angles so that intersection is guaranteed. If that's all it takes then making sure the surfaces are flat and making contact at the area where they appear to cross would be easier than trying to make flat contact everywhere.

When rootstock is same diameter as scion, I find making and fitting the tongue the most problematic for whip/tongue graft. I may just try a splice without tongue on my next ones and see if I can get those to work.

Amazing
I will stop breaking my head with grafting technics right now!
Whatever will be the results on my grafting odissey.
It will be a great learning experience .

Don't graft figs during dormancy.  Bud break or full growth are fine.  At least that has been my experience.

Probably any technique will work.  Whip or whip and tongue, and bark grafts have worked best for me.  If I have a stump to graft to, bark graft, if I have a smaller branch, whip/whip&tongue.  One of my bark grafts put on about 8 feet of growth this year before I tip-pruned it. Crazy.

This is a great tip, Jaime. I know this is also what Francisco emphasizes. Thanks!!

Francisco,

You're completely right.

We just need to make the cambium cross to improve the chances for a successful graft.

That's why i don't bother much to try and find a branch of exactly the same diameter for the whip and tongue or to make a chip graft cut fit exactly perfectly. Those small differences in size and diameter assure that in a few places the cambiums will cross.

If the diameter is exactly the same i usually skew the scion a little bit so they cross. It's much better doing that that having a scion sitting in the middle of a bigger diameter rootstock without the cambiums touching.

With thinner diameter scions a slightly longer cut allows for better tapping and more cambium crossing possibilities.

Usually, when the cambiums are fusing we can see that the growth is not equal in all the areas of contact. The places where the cambiums have crossed always start to fuse first and accumulate more healing tissue. Then the process continues to include all the wound.

Thanks to Francisco and others for your inputs on this subject. Grafting is something I'm very interested in and have been unable to find a reason why all my previous attempts have failed since my scion fits seemed as good as those I've seen in teaching videos.

Knowing that just a small amount of cambium contact is needed for a successful graft I will angle the scions just enough to see that it is out of contact at both ends so somewhere in the middle there has to be crossing. It's fun to have something new to try!

Hi,

I have a 12 years old smyrna fig tree in my garden which drops his fruit because there is no polination.
Now I want to try graft some drives with fig cuttings. I think it is cold now for grafting (10-12 C) so I put some cuttings in a bag and put them in the fridge.
Can I store them this way?
When comes the time to try graft the tree?

The method I want to try is a "scion-stock" grafting.

Hope for answers

Thanks for the beautiful reply