I have seen a lot of results in the search engine for air layering but I can't find anything on simple or ground layering.  I've had excellent results this year using a fabric staple and burying a low hanging branch in the dirt this year.  You don't have to mess with bags, moss, soil.  I don't even think that I removed a layer of bark as you would with an air layer.  I'm just wondering if anyone has used this method and if they find it quicker and more efficient than an air layer?

https://content.ces.ncsu.edu/plant-propagation-by-layering-instructions-for-the-home-gardener

I have used it, but not for figs. Works well. 

I have used it for azalea, hydrangea, roses, etc. Figs, as you know, are super easy to root. Yes pinning to the ground works fine. I've also seen rocks used to hold down a branch. My only worry would be when it comes to removing from the parent plant. I would not try to remove a pinned down branch while actively growing. I'm not sure it would have a strong enough root system. A good size root ball on an air layer would be more likely to be fine when removed while actively growing.

I do it with figs.black berries , raspberries.Muscadines and goji berries works for all of them just fine.

I've done ground layering with CH, and it works well! It's way less work than air-layering. I've done it as late as August, and it did just fine. By September, it was ready to pot up for the fall. I've also done it as early as May. It has never failed me!

Just finished a Tx Blue Giant layer, 1/2" horizontal branch.  I loosened the soil beneath the branch and covered the top with peat moss and used a piece of broken granite counter top to hold it down.  Takes about 4 weeks.  I have done several Hardy Chicago layers as well.

I think it is easier than air layers and I use it whenever I can.  I have not tried anything smaller than 1/2" caliber.

I have seen natural ground layering occur many times in my figs that die back every winter and grow each spring into bush form with many shoots growing up from the ground. Invariably with out thinning, these shoots lay down on the surrounding mulch due to rain and wind action and leafing out of larger / stronger branches. Each fall when I am doing cleanup I find many of these smaller shoots and branches that laid down on the mulch have produced roots from multiple leaf nodes and have taken a strong hold of the ground; sometimes making it difficult to lift them up.... I thing horizontal layering action is just natures normal modus operandi....

Hi All, 

I wanted to share some findings related to the above sucker that I took this fall.  I was re-potting this tree in my basement and found another sucker starting to grow right where I took the sucker this Fall.  As you can see, the wound has healed over very nicely, even while the tree has been dormant. I am wondering if others have experienced similar growth of suckers near where they have wounded their tree to take other suckers?  Could wounding or cutting a tree be a stimulant for suckers?

           

My frankenfig was conceived this way from a neighbor's tree, except I laid the branch across a pot with soil, covered the branch with a bit more soil, and put a brick on top. 

About two years ago, I removed a sucker from my Violette de Sollies believing that I'll end up with two trees. I did it towards the end of summer. I lost the sucker almost immediately and nothing grew back on the mother in ground tree since then. I noticed that certain varieties can sucker much easier than others if their growth habits are shrub like, rather than upright.

As Sas has mentioned,certain varieties throw suckers to the point of annoyance.
In a perverse irony,the harder they are to root the less likely they'll throw suckers.

But to answer the question;<Could wounding or cutting a tree be a stimulant for suckers?>
Yes,both at ground level and in the canopy.

Tyro,

What is the science behind wounding the canopy and forming suckers?

http://arnoldia.arboretum.harvard.edu/pdf/articles/2010-67-4-tree-hormones-and-why-they-matter.pdf