A Colander Easy SIP in use... With a simple modification.

Hydroponics...

I decided to give hydroponic fig cultivation a try, especially since I have already committed to converting all my planters into SIPs this growing season. There are several Hydroponic designs that use a SIP type container, one is Autopot, which was invented in Australia http://autopot.com.au/default.aspx?PageID=d2de5333-c9f3-4db0-a9d7-50c73047dbae .

What a cool experiment Pete.  I have a friend who is doing the hydroponic thing with veggies and Tilapia, it is working out quite well for him.  For the media he is using those expanded marble size clay balls but they are pretty pricey.  

Wills C,
Thanks.
I could have used that (Hydroton pellets), Perlite or even pea gravel, but then I would need a pumped drip type watering system and Specialized Hydroponic fertilizers.

Ack... Too complicated Pete IMHO.

The hydro solutions sold commercially have all of the nutrients and ph control required. There are successful companies with hundreds of thousands of dollars invested in hydro farming that just following the directions on the label.

Quart containers full of Perlite flooded with hydro solution 1x a day . My quart containers with cuttings started in December are root bound, the plants more than 2 feet tall, some have figs and I will be transplanting them to soil in a few weeks then out the door they go.


Dutch Bucket: simple effective proven.

Rich,
The comparison of your 1 qt. deli containers with cuttings to 5 gallon containers growing figs is "Apples to Oranges", no comparison. Once the fig trees start to use larger volumes of water, the internal and external reservoir will be more than adequate to keep up and simple enough to be easily maintained, no electrical devices, one moving part, the float valve.

Another Benefit of the SIP is the condition that is usually observed with most successful SIPs, the roots will grow into the reservoir. This simple natural action actually turns the SIP into a Kratsky Hydroponic planter, http://www.hydroponicsanywhere.com/kratkys_non-circulating_hydroponics.html , air roots will develop in the air space above the water and the roots that colonize the reservoir will provide water and nutrients, increasing growth and development of the plant with no fertilizer runoff.
  

Yes, The Dutch bucket system is relatively simple, but still needs a pumped system and constant monitoring of pH and nutrients to work successfully. All parts of this SIP Hydroponic hybrid are tested and proven with Fig Culture. I'm even using the same fertilizers that I've used successfully for the past 2 years. Also the SIP based fertigation can be easily converted into a 100% organic system by substituting organic Liquid fertilizer, compost teas or Manure teas for the MG fertilizer solution. An explanation of media that can be used in Autopots, http://autopot.com.au/content/documents/Hydroponics%20Made%20Easy%20-%20Chapter%205-%20pdfa.pdf

Have you or any one that you know grown Fig Trees successfully in a Dutch Bucket?

Rich,
This is the video that you posted.

The thing I'm so passionate about is creating a repeatable process that anyone from and experienced gardener to a newb would be able to follow and get good results.

I rode the fail bus so many times following directions of other people here that I don't want others to go thru the same thing I did. This is a healthy hobby with good people. Buckets of rotted cuttings will result in people being discouraged and dropping out. Not good IMHO

Soon I will post a step by step process that if followed, no matter where you live, will give great results.

Rich,

I am starting a new fig (along with some other fruits and veggies) orchard in the Denver area.  I have decided to use a Dutch Bucket hydroponics system with a recirculating pump.  I am planning on top watering a mix of 60-80% Perlite and 20-40% expanded shale (for weight).  I will use a modified Dutch Bucket cloth containers within plumbed buckets).  I do not want roots entering the reservoir.  This is going to be my first year trying it out.  Theoretically, I see some advantages to a recirculating pump system over the traditional SIP containers.  Depending on how far I get into building it all, I will report more at the end of the year.  Initially I will need distribute and collect the nutrient solution by hand.

Pete,  Many years ago, I saw a fig tree growing in a hydroponic shop just south of Philadelphia.

James,
Thanks for commenting.
I would be interested in any updates on your Fruit tree hydroponic installation. There is very little information on growing Hydroponic fruit trees on the Web, mostly vegetables and greens. Fruit trees seem to be problematic in hydroponics due to specific nutrient requirements.
Could you please expound on the advantages of a recirculating pump system?
Do you know if the tree produce figs? Thanks.


Rich,
Thanks for the answer.
Yes that was my original guess, http://figs4funforum.websitetoolbox.com/post/show_single_post?pid=1282054924&postcount=27

Bato buckets work really well, but as in the video Pete showed it is really simple to make your own.  

I agree there is very little on the web about this topic, so much of what I am planning is quasi-theoretical with a little bit of validation from things observed here and there.  The fig tree I saw had fruit on it, but they were not ripe at the time.  This was long enough ago to where hydroponics were not so mainstream beyond the basement MJ crops.  The person behind the counter was a bit stunned when I handed him my credit card (not cash) and had to go "find" the machine to process it.  LOL.

The primary benefit I see is automation.  I will start off at 3 week intervals for flushing the system and replacing the nutrient solution.  That means I do not have to water the trees everyday and if I leave for a week (I have a couple of trips planned), someone just needs to make sure the system is operational.  Secondly, I am planning on different nutrient solutions for pre/early season, mid season and late season.  It was not clear how one could accomplish this with a SIP (automated or not).  Thirdly is weight.  Since I can control the frequency and amount of water, I am able to grow in almost all perlite.  When it comes time to move the trees in for winter, it will not be such a strain.

I've been developing my system for several months.  The research information hasn't all been available, but I've been trying to come up with a "complete" method.  It will take me some time to get it out of my head, so I'll type it out in MS Word then C&P it in here.  Given my schedule, I will try to have it done and posted here by next weekend.  Hopefully it will spur more discussions, criticisms, and ideas which will be useful for everyone.

Chivas,
Thanks for commenting.
I have no first hand knowledge of the Bato system, but it seems to have a large commercial following.

James,
Thanks for the reply,
There is little info, but I did find a few research papers, one of particular interest on growing mango trees hydroponically. I considered the Growth / Bloom / Additive nutrient programs, but decided against due to the additional complexity. The potting mix is able to provide most of the additional organics and pH stabilizers which are provided by the Nutrient Additives. 

The SIPs can be automated very simply (with a gravity fill and gravity drain) by using the fill system demonstrated in the following video (minus the pumps, solenoids and electronics).

Thanks Pete for spinning my mind about add this system to my current setup. This is a great solution for anyone using a swp method. I like that rubber grommet idea. I'm gonna try it tomorrow on my barrels. I think it will work. The watering system saves a lot water. Ok! Now I need to sketch this out. Gota go! Thanks again.

Dennis,
You're welcome.
The alaska grow bucket site has links to purchase the grommets and fittings for 1/2" sprinkler pipe thru Amazon, http://alaskagrowbuckets.com/alaska-grow-bucket-store/ . Their Video shows the grommet installation into the planter base... Good Luck.

I grew a little less than a tenth of an acre of commercial cucumbers in perlite in bato buckets as well as 12 litre buckets with no resivour, the bato's were better, black or white didn't make a difference in the summer on the roots.  I have been told that commercial growers in holland are still growing this way, very little root disease when grown this way as it very dry.  Another friend of mine had acres of it and same results.  The best part is you can steam the used perlite and mix it with fresh perlite so you don't have to get rid of the old stuff.

Chivas, Rich,
I don't plan on using 100% Perlite because all the research to date points to problems with its use as a long term growing media.


The next buckets to be added to the test will be similar to the General Hydroponics Water Farm and Mega Farm buckets, The Mega Farm is shown planted with a Banana tree. The reservoir sections have already been fabricated and I'm now waiting for the 10" diameter net pot cover combo, the pictured bucket is with a 6" net pot cover combo. the attached manufacturer's instructions have the "planting instructions' and assembly of the buckets. The only major difference will be that the 5 gallon planters will be constructed as SIPs with a bottom wick instead of the electric pump and drip system. All the individual (5 gallon Bucket) reservoirs will be connected together like the General Hydroponics Water Farm 8-Pack, Multiflow System or Alaska buckets, but can also be stand alone.
          .

<edit> Note the attached WF_Upgrade instructions PDF for the Water Farm 8-Pack. Its an upgrade to the float control bucket that provides for circulation and aeration of the nutrients in the float control bucket (tank) with a single air pump and an air siphon.  I've purchased an air pump from The Grow Room store in Nyack NY, http://www.thegrowroom.com/ (my hydroponics supplier), and will include this simple "upgrade" to the reservoir system. The HydroFarm air pump draws 2 Watts at 120Vac with a 3.2 L/Min air output.

Using a wick in place of a pump and or drip system is a huge difference in method. You don't need either if you were to use a big bucket of perlite and douse it once a day. If you are going to leave the plant outside in the heat you will need the pump I would think.

Im transplanting my dutch bucket plants to soil now and Im not seeing any transplant shock after nearly a week. Its pushing out a new leaf already

Rich,
I'm Surprised!!!
I thought that you would definitely be growing out the fig trees in Perlite instead of soil, with Dutch Buckets and Hydroponic Nutrients, especially with your continual recommendation of them ; )
Good luck.

So why aren't you using your recommended Perlite/Dutch Bucket/Douse method?
Thanks.

To grow in strictly perlite you definitely need a water supply as in summer heat or even spring/fall heat you will need to water more often, the perlite can dry out very easily and requires much more water and more fertilizer as it does not hold much fertilizer as soil.  Another option in dutch buckets, if you're curious to try, is a hydroton (clay pebbles) and soil/coco mix.  The hydroton gives a lot of air space but does not allow as much nutrients to the plants to be available as the soil, although you can use just the hydroton I would not recommend just straight clay pebbles either, the soil gives more structure and is more forgiving if there is a watering issue.  Since the clay pebbles are very light it is a great option to add aeration to your soil mix as well, more expensive than sand but easier on your back.

Chivas,
Thanks for  commenting.
That's why I'm using a Coir mix for this test  / experiment. And also the reason for the gravity supplied remote reservoir and automated watering setup, maintaining an available supply of water and nutrients.