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ascpete

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Reply with quote  #1 
Starting this Topic to document the progress of my Fig Orchard. Pictures of the fig plants, pruning and training to the Japanese or Stepover Espalier form will be attached.

The attached links are of the air layers of the unknown Dark fig (unknown variety, BryantDark), The Posts with pictures show the Airlayers' early progress and the Mother tree and figs. These airlayers will be the first of 50 plants that will be planted to create an in ground espalier fig orchard. Another 30 plants (mostly named varieties) in 5 gallon buckets, which were stored in an attached enclosed porch are still fully dormant. It is too early in the season to plant in ground, outdoor gardening usually starts here at the end of May, after last frost.

Below are pictures of the future orchard location, a south facing slope which gets sun from 8:00 am to 6:00 pm in the summer. Also a current picture of two of the large airlayers (with a 4 foot level for size reference) that were removed from the mother tree in october 2013.  The air layers  were pruned to 3-1/2 feet, planted in 5 gallon buckets, stored indoors in an unheated room and have been dormant all winter. The cut ends were sealed with Elmer's School Glue, and there has not been any dessication or dieback, buds have formed and are breaking at the ends of every branch. The caliper at soil line (for both) is almost 2 inches. The plants currently live near a southeast facing window. The top 2 feet will be air layered off, after planting in ground.

These plants could also be planted in larger containers or in ground and pruned to maintain a bush or tree form, due to the established scaffold branches.

I will post Updates.

Attached Images
jpeg Large_Airlayers_Unknown_waking_up_4-13-13.jpg (302.75 KB, 1064 views)
jpeg slope__looking_downhill_Before_4-14-13.jpg (189.25 KB, 402 views)
jpeg slope2__looking_downhill_Before_4-14-13.jpg (191.59 KB, 336 views)
jpeg slope3__looking_east_Before_4-14-13.jpg (367.61 KB, 249 views)

Chivas

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Reply with quote  #2 
Can't wait to see what you have in store in summer time, I am starting a few trees like this but instead of pruning the top I am simply bending them over to have the apical growth go horizontal so I am interested to see how yours are doing to compare to mine.
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ascpete

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Reply with quote  #3 
Chivas,
Thanks for commenting. The wood (1-1/2 to 2 inch diameter) has zero flexibility, it's a few years old, so I would not be able to bend it, even if I wanted to.
I would be interested in your results also.

ascpete

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Reply with quote  #4 
The buds are breaking on the in ground fig trees in NYC, so I have to start pruning and training the BryantDark mother tree. I will be posting pictures of the mother tree over the next 2 weeks. It will be pruned and trained to a Japanese espalier form. The larger caliper vertical branches will be air layered after the tree leafs out, there will be about 18 air layers. All the branches have been marked for training, air layering or future removal. If the air layers are successful 6-12 will be available free, for local pickup only (if interested send a PM later in the season)

In the 2nd picture the crossing and damage branches have been removed and the smaller caliper (1 to 1-1/2 inch) vertical branches are being pulled down to the left (of picture) to form horizontals. There are currently 3 (three) branches over 8 feet tall that will be laid horizontal within the week. The entire tree will be pruned and trained horizontal to the left (of picture)

Inline image

Attached Images
jpeg bryantdark_tree_before_01_4-18-2013.jpg (258.88 KB, 95 views)
jpeg bryantdark_tree_before_02_4-18-2013.jpg (245.96 KB, 99 views)
jpeg bryantdark_tree_before_02_base_closeup_4-18-2013.jpg (330.96 KB, 1243 views)

Tonycm

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Reply with quote  #5 
Keep us updated on your progress. I am trying my hand at this method too and would like to see how others are doing theirs.
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rcantor

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Reply with quote  #6 
Congratulations and good for you for all that work!  Shipping might not be so bad in the usps triangular tube box as long as the shipee pays in advance.   (Hint, Hint  :- )
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JohnnieB

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Reply with quote  #7 
I would like to come and see this project some day. I live across the river in Dutchess.
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ascpete

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Reply with quote  #8 
Tonycm, ... I plan on updating weekly.

Bob, ... If I had more free time, packaging and shipping would probably not be a problem, but time and resources are limited.

JohnnieB, ... Welcome to the forum community. Anything is possible, If the orchard is successful you will be on my invite list.
bigsmile542

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Reply with quote  #9 
I am going to do the same thing you are. I am starting new plants this spring and will train them to grow them the way I need them to grow. I plan to grow the one foot from the ground on a wire or EMT pipe. Clipping them off every year to the main trunk. Letting new growth start each year for a main crop. Then when leaves fall cut them back again and cover them for winter. If I had your plants I would lay them on there side and cover there root. Then start training to grow along the pipe one foot from the ground. No I have never done this but how hard can it be?
With the tree cut down it can be covered for winter better. I will put the small hoop house over them in summer to protect them form sun and critters. I already grow vegies in small hoop houses and no matter how I grow my figs I will have to cover them both in summer and winter. This is my plan for ate least part of my fig trees.

Zone 8
South West TX

Attached Images
jpeg _fig_espalier_3.jpg (571.20 KB, 190 views)
jpeg esperilar_fig_8.jpg (357.91 KB, 189 views)
jpeg esparlier_fig_10.jpg (575.15 KB, 177 views)
jpeg esperilar_fig_7.jpg (377.90 KB, 184 views)
jpeg esperilar_fig_8.jpg (357.91 KB, 193 views)
jpeg oldertrees_espalier.jpg (487.46 KB, 186 views)

ascpete

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Reply with quote  #10 
bigsmile542,
This is the plan. The air layers are at Step1. The verticals are spaced 12 inches inline and 8 inches on alternate sides.
[image] 

Here is an apple espalier technique that can be used on figs...
[espalier-made-easy-image5]


This is a picture of the Bryantdark tree (Step 2) with three (3) smaller caliper branches laid horizontal and four (4) larger caliper branches being pulled down to horizontal. By the end of this week a simple frame will be installed to tie down the branches in their permanent position (the larger verticals will be air layered).

[image]

Simple frame installed... constructed of 4 foot fence posts and 3/4 inch EMT metal tubing. The tubing is connected to the fence post with 18 guage copper electrical wiring. The branches are connected to the tubing with Velcro plant ties. Wire is used to pull the larger caliper branches down into place, once they have been trained into position, standard plant ties will be installed.
[image]


Good Luck on your project and please post your results.

Here is an earlier post that includes links and a PDF with instructions and an earlier Topic with the original pruning diagrams and several links

Attached Images
jpeg bryantdark_tree_Step2_layout1_4-22-2013.jpg (307.64 KB, 1096 views)
jpeg bryantdark_tree_Step2_layout2_4-23-2013.jpg (248.13 KB, 1144 views)
jpeg bryantdark_tree_Step2_layout3_4-29-2013.jpg (279.04 KB, 45 views)
jpeg 4_ft_center_espalier_hedge.jpg (32.12 KB, 20 views)

bigsmile542

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Reply with quote  #11 
Pete S  This looks like a very good plan. I think it will work for you very well. The PDF file on your last post has some very good info as well.
Lets see if I understand!!!! You prune to the node in the direction you wont the limb to go. Top node sends the limb up and a bottom node sends the limb down?
I this only going to give a one crop or a two crop? The way I see it is how you prune it. Cut off all this years growth and you will only have a main crop next year. What would happen if you cut only half this years growth and cut them off the limbs after the barba crop gets ripe. Keep this limb short to let the main crop ripen. Then cut the barba crop limb off in winter and let the main crop limb form the braba crop the next year round and round. I can't find any info on this just a idea. Your idea? and someone else please help?

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ascpete

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Reply with quote  #12 
bigsmile542, ... If you are referring to the two nodes, You are only using one node, the weaker one, the other is a spare (Just in case). The yearly fruiting branches are all trained up. If you are doing an alternate vertical branching, the main horizontal trunk is trained to have the branches on the side.

If you had a breba only tree you could prune alternate verticals yearly. It had been mention in a topic on pruning Desert King fig trees.

Pruning to a large tree form or large espalier may work for your location (zone).

<Edit> You could also lay down the vertical branches in the fall and cover with the main horizontal trunk.
bigsmile542

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Reply with quote  #13 
Yes saw something about the strong and weak nodes. I am trying to figure how to get two crops for one tree. Not just a main crop. It would be very easy to cover if cut off all this years growth down to the main trunk. But thinking I maybe able to get more from one tree. I am talking about the way I plan to do mine in the earlier post. I like your plan also.

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ascpete

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Reply with quote  #14 
First fig tree to be planted in ground. Its an unknown that has been relocated from the Bronx, the roots are at least 35 years old. I have called it Noladark, it is a late fig which is very sweet with a rich taste. If it does well, It will be air layered and planted in the fig orchard on the south facing slope in the background.

Picture taken 4/23/2013
Inline imagePicture Taken 6/27/2013
Inline imageInline image Inline image 

Attached Images
jpeg slopetop__looking_east_first_fig_tree_in_ground_4-23-13.jpg (334.96 KB, 102 views)
jpeg slopetop_first_fig_tree_in_ground_4-23-13.jpg (379.42 KB, 112 views)
jpeg BryantDark2_Sept2012.jpg (272.46 KB, 113 views)
jpeg BryantDark2_April2013.jpg (222.91 KB, 119 views)
jpeg Noladark_maincrop_fig_6-27-13.jpg (313.82 KB, 59 views)

bigsmile542

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Reply with quote  #15 
Boy there are some good root on those. Should do well.

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ascpete

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Reply with quote  #16 
Shuffled out the 5 gallon buckets that were stored in an enclosed porch, but were intentionally exposed to 15 Deg F temperature. These will be some of the varieties used for the orchard. The 1 gallons and 5 gallons growing indoors will be place in the re-purposed chicken tractor in the background. The chicken tractors will be used as temporary cold frames, when covered with plastic.

Minimal dieback:
Hardy Chicago, Alma, Papa John, LSU Tiger, Deanna, improved Celeste, Conadria, Stella, LSU Gold, White Marsailles, Unknowns...KrmkDark and KrmkLight.

Breaking buds and new leaves:
Hardy Chicago, LSU Gold, improved Celeste, Hollier, EBT, Unknown...KrmkDark.

Major dieback (over 12 inches):
improved Celeste (from 3 different sources), LSU Champagne, LSU Black, Green Ischia, Kadota (lowes) and  TE Brown Turkey

<Edit> Dead:
LSU Purple, Mission (lowes), Magnolia, Brown Turkey (Lowes)

Breba are visible and swelling on one Hardy Chicago and unknown...KrmkDark.

<edit> I will have to edit this list due to the fact that several branches that seemed dead on first observation are actually coming back to life (re hydrating)...

Attached Images
jpeg fig_shuffle_4-2013_breba_and_buds.jpg (321.35 KB, 107 views)
jpeg fig_shuffle_4-2013_5gallons.jpg (328.83 KB, 104 views)

bigsmile542

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Reply with quote  #17 
Good lucking fig jungle you have there. Spring soon come.

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BronxFigs

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Reply with quote  #18 
Hey Pete...You got some figs!  That menage a figues looks great.

Please tell me/us what mix ingredients you are using in your 5 gallon buckets.  It drains very well, and your trees really do great planted in this mix.  I'd like to use it myself.  If you can list the ingredients and proportions, I'd sure appreciate it.  (The BryantDark is waking up).

Love looking at your works-in-progress.

Frank

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ascpete

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Reply with quote  #19 
Hello Frank,
Thanks. That mix was the standard 5-1-1 mix...

5 - parts Pine Bark Mulch
1 - part Peat Moss
1 - part Perlite
Plus - 1 cup Dolemite Limestone and 1 cup Espoma Plant-Tone per 5 gallon. Also Dolemite limestone is added to the top @ 1/2 cup per month

I have since modified that to a 5-1-1-1 mix. The added ingredient is 1 part Oil Absorbent (Fullers Earth) from Tractor Supply, similar to Oil Dry. The new mix drains better, is more aerated, hold more moisture but its also heavier.
brackishfigger

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Reply with quote  #20 
I have a similiar project going, on a much smaller scale, and I look forward to seeing your progress.  Great job so far!
BronxFigs

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Reply with quote  #21 
Thanks Pete for the mix ratios. 

The Limestone neutralizes the acidic Peat Moss.  That's good.

Interesting additions, re: Espoma, and Turface-like substitutes.  By the way NAPA Auto has their own version of Oil-Dry....called "Floor Dry" SKU # 8822.

Thanks for the information.


Frank

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ascpete

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Reply with quote  #22 
brackishfigger, ... Welcome to the forum community... Thanks. Hopefully you will post pictures of your results.

Frank, ... The Espoma has micro-nutrients and Mycorrhizae. I add 1/2 cup per month along with my weekly Miracle Grow feeding @ 1 tablespoon / gallon of water. Note the MG is stopped at the end of August. Oil Dry and Floor Dry also work, I have tried both. I just prefer the Fullers Earth product.
thearabicstudent

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Reply with quote  #23 
ascpete, do you protect that tree in the winter being that you're in zone 6?  It looks too big to wrap.
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ascpete

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Reply with quote  #24 
thearabicstudent,

Welcome to the Forum Community...
All the large trees that I have documented are growing in The Bronx, NY. Most are not protected and have not been protected for years. From the information gathered from some of the original owners, some of the trees were covered when they were first planted and for their early years. NYC actually has many micro climates created by the buildings and structures, though the Bronx overall is usually colder.

I plan on protecting the trees planted in ground at my home, at least until they get established.
ascpete

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Reply with quote  #25 
Update: 5/09/2013 ... Bronx NYC espalier.

Pictures of espalier progress on the Bryantdark fig tree. Pictures were taken during a sunny break between thunder storms. Breba figs are growing and are about the size of a dime.

Buds are starting to form at the nodes on the large horizontal branch at top of the picture.
Inline image

Attached Images
jpeg bryantdark_tree_breba2_5-09-2013.jpg (267.14 KB, 361 views)
jpeg bryantdark_tree_Step2_layout4_5-09-2013.jpg (335.06 KB, 78 views)
jpeg bryantdark_tree_Step2_layout4_detail1_5-09-2013.jpg (336.96 KB, 1001 views)

bigsmile542

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Reply with quote  #26 
Good to see you update. Glad to see spring has made it your way. summer is here where I am. Keep us posted on your progress.

Zone 8
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ascpete

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Reply with quote  #27 
Update 5/22/2013... Bronx NYC espalier

Close ups of shoots forming on the horizontal branches and of swelling breba figs which are almost at the "stagnant" stage. In the pictures with the horizontal branches is Mrs Bryant's Great granddaughter's pet rabbit named Bunny, visiting for the day.

Inline imageThere are currently four (4) large diameter horizontals that span the 7 feet between trellis. 3 of the 4 have newly emerged shoots and leaves at 80 -90% of the nodes. The 4th has buds just starting to break at 100%, every node.

Attached Images
jpeg bryantdark_breba_5-21-13.jpg (306.27 KB, 65 views)
jpeg bryantdark_tree_5-21-13.jpg (302.56 KB, 68 views)
jpeg bryantdark_horizontal1_5-21-13.jpg (344.98 KB, 910 views)
jpeg bryantdark_horizontal2_5-21-13.jpg (322.50 KB, 47 views)

bigsmile542

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Reply with quote  #28 
Thanks for the update Pete.  Keep us posted on how it progresses.

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Chivas

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Reply with quote  #29 
Much Farther ahead than mine, I won't start my thread until I get some solid growth, looking more like in june I can do some pictures now to compare.

It will be nice since  you will get fruit off that tree this year correct?

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BronxFigs

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Reply with quote  #30 
Pete,

Great thread,  Great photos.  Great information.

Just curious.  Do the original owners of these featured, Bronx fig trees, know that there is such an interest?  Does Mrs. Bryant know her tree is "famous" ?


Can't wait to see the coming postings.  My "Bryant-Dark-1" has sprouted, and is in full-growth mode.  Love it.


Frank

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ascpete

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Reply with quote  #31 
bigsmile542, ... You're welcome.

Chivas, ... I'm looking forward to your pictures.
The breba on the main tree will definately ripen by the later part of July, Just as they did last year. There are 3-6 on every branch in the tree canopy. I am expecting main crop figs to form and ripen this year on the espaliered branches. I have committed to AIr Layer at least 18 Large caliper branches, which will be started within 2 weeks, after the leaves have developed to provide shade for the gallon jugs (air layer container).

Frank, ... Thanks. Yes I speak to most of them on a regular basis., and had informed them from day 1 that I would be posting the pictures on the internet. I dont know about famous though... infamous maybe. : )
The only person that I have not spoken with this season is Rosemary (RoseDark and RoseLight). I will have some free time next week, so I will visit for lunch one day.
JohnnieB

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Reply with quote  #32 
Looks like the project is coming along nicely Pete. I can't wait to see pics of when it starts going vertical. I find this type of traing very interesting.
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ascpete

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Reply with quote  #33 
Update...6/5/2013

JohnnieB, ... Here are some pictures taken today. Hopefully this technique will be more productive and easier to maintain than growing as a large bush

The verticals at the far end (apical end of the horizontal) are currently growing faster than the ones in the middle. The unwanted verticals will be pruned in another week. Fig embryos are forming on the larger verticals... Which means that the verticals should ripen figs before fall.
Also visible are brebas that are on an older vertical (branch) that was pruned to 2 nodes.

Inline image

Attached Images
jpeg bryantdark_espalier_6-5-13.jpg (300.49 KB, 65 views)
jpeg bryantdark_espalier1_6-5-13.jpg (266.99 KB, 70 views)
jpeg bryantdark_espalier2_6-5-13.jpg (268.22 KB, 823 views)
jpeg bryantdark_espalier3_6-5-13.jpg (285.94 KB, 436 views)
jpeg bryantdark_espalier4_6-5-13.jpg (255.33 KB, 90 views)
jpeg bryantdark_espalier_and_mother_tree_6-5-13.jpg (335.19 KB, 83 views)

cookie_dr

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Reply with quote  #34 
It's looking good Pete.  The cuttings that I started this winter are in the ground now and I am going to train them in the same fashion.  I think it will be next year before any progress....right now they are 12 inches tall or less.  I have 4 different varities that I will be training this way.  I enjoy the pictures and will learn a lot about the process through you.....thanks.
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Pattee

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Reply with quote  #35 
Great documentation of your project Pete. I love seeing the progress.
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ascpete

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Reply with quote  #36 
Diane, ... Thanks. Good Luck with your project. Please post pictures of your progress... You can start their "training" now. I was able to get to step #2 as shown in the diagram in post #10 in one short season last year, from cuttings started in late spring. You just have to be willing to prune away unwanted branches, the plant will concentrate its growth in the remaining ones.

Pattee, ... Thanks. As long as there is something of interest to post, I will continue to update the topic.
americanfiglover

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Reply with quote  #37 
I don't know if I missed it or not but what causes the old buds to open again and grow? It seems from your picture that every single bud is producing a stem. 
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ascpete

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Reply with quote  #38 
americanfigboy, ... By placing the branch horizontal and pruning the apical tip of the branch, the hormone that stops branching is removed and dormant buds start to grow at the nodes... The branch will try to produce a new apical branch. Look at the link at the bottom of post #10. and do a search of Japanese Espalier or stepover espalier for more info. Here is an earlier post on a pruning topic where it is discussed

Before... 5/16/2013
Inline imageAfter... 6/7/2013
Inline imageBTW, this same genetic trait can be used to induce branching along branches or main trunk, if the apical tip is removed and the branch is placed in a horizontal position, it can then be returned to its original position after new buds have sprouted.
Inline image Inline image

fortisi876

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Reply with quote  #39 
I would be very interested in hearing from the zone 6+ folks on how they winterize or plan to winterize trees growing in this manner?

It's a very interesting idea, I have 2-3 in-ground trees I'd be willing to try this technique since I cant stand how tall the one gets.....
ascpete

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Reply with quote  #40 
fortisi876,
The main vertical trunk will be protected with a tree bark protector (4 inch corrugated drain pipe).
The verticals will be pruned back to 2 nodes and sealed with pruning sealer, or may be laid horizontal if possible.
A 2 foot high by 2 foot wide bed of straw and leaves will surround the horizontal trunk for its entire length and will be covered with a tarp.

The espaliers in NYC will not be winter protected. The older in ground trees large diameter (over 1 inch) branches and their smaller side branched have not been damaged by previous winters. If the winter is very severe, the horizontals can be covered with straw, and a tarp "tent" cover can be suspended from the fence posts.
rcantor

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Reply with quote  #41 
Great work!  If you have gnawing critters you might want to paint the bark right down to the roots to avoid the nasty surprise Ingevald got.  Best of luck with it.  Thanks for showing us your progress.
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Galicia Negra, De La Reina - Pons, Genovese Nero - Rafed's, Sbayi, Souadi, Acciano, Any Rimada, Sodus Sicilian, any Bass, Pons or Axier fig, any great tasting fig.
ascpete

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Reply with quote  #42 
Bob C, ... Thanks for the link and recommendation. I had read that a good white wash could be made from a 50/50 mix of latex paint and joint compound. Can you recommend any bark paint?

Update; 6/21/2013

Espalier pictures and closeup of verticals. 70% of verticals are over 1 foot, taller verticals have swelling main crop figs. The clump of leaves above the center of the trellis is actually several future horizontals that are too short to span the 7 feet, and are currently growing at 45 deg angles until they are longer.
Inline imagePicture of large air layer from opening post, note the pea sized main crop figs swelling on the upper branches.
Inline image 

Attached Images
jpeg Bronx_fig_espalier1__6-21-13.jpg (288.09 KB, 29 views)
jpeg Bronx_fig_espalier2__6-21-13.jpg (277.17 KB, 28 views)
jpeg Bronx_fig_espalier3__6-21-13.jpg (288.86 KB, 35 views)
jpeg Large_Air_layer_unknown_Bryantdark_6-21-13.jpg (213.20 KB, 108 views)

ascpete

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Reply with quote  #43 
Update; 6/28/2013

Espalier pictures and closeup of verticals with swelling main crop figs. The vertical need to thinned to at least 12 inches apart, in some areas they are only 2-3 inches apart (too many figs!). Last picture is of the main crop figs swelling on the mother tree.
Inline image


 
Inline image Inline image Inline image Inline image 

JohnnieB

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Reply with quote  #44 
Wow Pete it really looks like this is going to be an awesome setup. Thanks for the great documentation.
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ascpete

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Reply with quote  #45 
Update 7/16/13
Current pictures of the Bryantdark espalier and a picture of a breba changing color. Breba have been ripening over the last week, but I've been busy with work and have not been able to visit. Hopefully I will be able to get pictures of a cut ripe fig later this week.

Attached Images
jpeg bryantdark_espalier_7-16-13.jpg (131.63 KB, 61 views)
jpeg bryantdark_mom_breba_7-16-13.jpg (94.29 KB, 62 views)

rcantor

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Reply with quote  #46 
Looks great!  I would mix latex paint, wolf urine and rodent blood but that's just a wild guess.
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Galicia Negra, De La Reina - Pons, Genovese Nero - Rafed's, Sbayi, Souadi, Acciano, Any Rimada, Sodus Sicilian, any Bass, Pons or Axier fig, any great tasting fig.
ascpete

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Reply with quote  #47 
Bob C,
<edit>...
I think I'll just stick with Latex or Asphalt.
Figaro

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Reply with quote  #48 
Really looking great, Pete!  Nice job!
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[B]Figaro Zone 10b - South Florida[/I]
Growing: Black Mission, Strawberry Verte, LSU Hollier, LSU Purple, LSU Scotts Black, Cajun Gold, Panachee, Excel, UCR 291-4, UCR 143-36, Violette de Bordeaux, Ronde de Bordeaux, Calvert,  Black Madeira, Col De Dame Blanc
Wish List:
 CdDN, CdDG, Ischia Black, Galicia Negra
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jtp

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Posts: 980
Reply with quote  #49 
That is a great-looking setup. I love it. Thanks for posting.
Kayteesfigs

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Posts: 1
Reply with quote  #50 
Thanks for all the great info.
I've planted 700 figs sticks in the ground last winter and am hoping to train them in the Japanese espalier method.
Great inspiration.
Working on a lay out plan for the orchard at the moment.
Planning on spacing figs 4m apart in rows 3m apart.
Considering whether 2m on each side of fig will be enough space for the horizontals.
Any ideas?

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Keren Kirk
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