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TheFigster

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Posted Reply with quote  #1 
Hello... I have a 5 ft tall mission fig that was from last year and it's been really cold here in Texas and one of the branches at the top is splitting open where it attaches to the tree stem.  is this normal and can i fill it with anything without hurting the tree??
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Grasa

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Posted Reply with quote  #2 
I saw a huge fig orchard, where the owner puts a bamboo next to the split and secure it together as a splinter bandage, sort like a doctor fixing a broken bone, casting to secure it in place. sometimes, they heal up and you would be able to remove the big splinter. 

You could make a huge airlayer on the area, and secure it in place with a post/bamboo.

You could trim the branch and root several cuttings or share with others.

I wish you the best and share with us what you did.
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DallasFigs

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Posted Reply with quote  #3 
How thick and long is that branch? Is it splitting due to weight? Our more of a bulging out split due to freezing? For the former, follow Grasa's suggestions for sure. As for the latter, I'm not sure. Pictures would help the gurus give you the proper advice.
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TheFigster

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Posted Reply with quote  #4 
Quote:
Originally Posted by DallasFigs
How thick and long is that branch? Is it splitting due to weight? Our more of a bulging out split due to freezing? For the former, follow Grasa's suggestions for sure. As for the latter, I'm not sure. Pictures would help the gurus give you the proper advice.
If it wasn't for the time being 12:04 a.m. right now, I would take pictures... the branch is about 1/2 inch and the main stem next to it is also about the same.  the branch is kinda like opening up right there.  I will take pictures tomorrow for sure and post them.. I live in fort worth jimmy..
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TheFigster

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Posted Reply with quote  #5 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Grasa
I saw a huge fig orchard, where the owner puts a bamboo next to the split and secure it together as a splinter bandage, sort like a doctor fixing a broken bone, casting to secure it in place. sometimes, they heal up and you would be able to remove the big splinter. 

You could make a huge airlayer on the area, and secure it in place with a post/bamboo.

You could trim the branch and root several cuttings or share with others.

I wish you the best and share with us what you did.
The only trouble with your suggestion is that it's going to be freezing in the a.m. here for the next two days in fort worth, tx.. maybe i should just wrap it with something for now? but what?
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Grasa

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Posted Reply with quote  #6 
get another branch, a stick, a piece of wood and wrap with it, to give some support, use old socks, they make great ties for emergencies such as this.
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Aaron4USA

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Posted Reply with quote  #7 
Vic, you need to wrap the splitting branch with something elastic and breathable... do you have access to medical supply store? there are types of bandaid wraps that look like white 1-3 inch wide and long , so they come in a roll form in a pack. one side is elastic fabric the other side sticky so it adders. you can wrap the entire branch where the crack is and leave it like that for a long time, by the mid spring you'll have a brand new branch all healed and fresh.
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Posted Reply with quote  #8 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aaron4USA
Vic...do you have access to medical supply store?


Fig emergency! Fig emergency! get the doctor's kit and start CPR!
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TheFigster

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Posted Reply with quote  #9 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aaron4USA
Vic, you need to wrap the splitting branch with something elastic and breathable... do you have access to medical supply store? there are types of bandaid wraps that look like white 1-3 inch wide and long , so they come in a roll form in a pack. one side is elastic fabric the other side sticky so it adders. you can wrap the entire branch where the crack is and leave it like that for a long time, by the mid spring you'll have a brand new branch all healed and fresh.
I might be able to come up with something like that.. I have a great big z-medical kit that I used to use when my kids hurt themselves.. so wrap it with like gauze?
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TheFigster

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Posted Reply with quote  #10 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Grasa
get another branch, a stick, a piece of wood and wrap with it, to give some support, use old socks, they make great ties for emergencies such as this.
Socks I have plenty of.. i can use that I guess for now... will have to wait till morning though as it's colder than you know what out there right now!!
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TheFigster

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Posted Reply with quote  #11 
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheFigster
Quote:
Originally Posted by Grasa
I saw a huge fig orchard, where the owner puts a bamboo next to the split and secure it together as a splinter bandage, sort like a doctor fixing a broken bone, casting to secure it in place. sometimes, they heal up and you would be able to remove the big splinter. 

You could make a huge airlayer on the area, and secure it in place with a post/bamboo.

You could trim the branch and root several cuttings or share with others.

I wish you the best and share with us what you did.
The only trouble with your suggestion is that it's going to be freezing in the a.m. here for the next two days in fort worth, tx.. maybe i should just wrap it with something for now? but what?Would be hard to use bamboo since the split is on the branch and the stem coming up together..
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TheFigster

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Posted Reply with quote  #12 
Quote:
Originally Posted by DallasFigs
How thick and long is that branch? Is it splitting due to weight? Our more of a bulging out split due to freezing? For the former, follow Grasa's suggestions for sure. As for the latter, I'm not sure. Pictures would help the gurus give you the proper advice.
No, the split is not due to weight.. I think from getting too cold or maybe dry?? I only water it once a month in the cold weather.. I've heard that overwater in winter is the main reason tree's die..
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TheFigster

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Posted Reply with quote  #13 
I'll post some really close up pictures in the morning about 11:00 a.m. today..
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bullet08

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Posted Reply with quote  #14 
noticed my I-258 has split where the new branch came off the old wood where it rooted from. i'll just put mine in bigger container and bury it under the soil. i'm sure it will root around there in few months and it will be fine. if not, i'll be looking for I-258 cuttings agian. 
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***** all my figs have FMV/FMD, in case you're wondering. *****
***** and... i don't sell things. what little i have will be posted here in winter for first come first serve base to be shared. no, i'm not a socialist...*****
TheFigster

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Posted Reply with quote  #15 
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheFigster
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aaron4USA
Vic, you need to wrap the splitting branch with something elastic and breathable... do you have access to medical supply store? there are types of bandaid wraps that look like white 1-3 inch wide and long , so they come in a roll form in a pack. one side is elastic fabric the other side sticky so it adders. you can wrap the entire branch where the crack is and leave it like that for a long time, by the mid spring you'll have a brand new branch all healed and fresh.
I might be able to come up with something like that.. I have a great big z-medical kit that I used to use when my kids hurt themselves.. so wrap it with like gauze?
What do you fill the hole that is in the branch where the split is so that it will heal over????

Trying to load pictures but it says i don't have permission to put them on here???? why is that???
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Rewton

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Posted Reply with quote  #16 
Figster, I hope I'm not hijacking your thread but I had something similar happen to my in-ground Kathleen's Black in November when I was wrapping it for winter.  I bent one of the low branches upward to tie it close to the main trunk and it snapped at the base of the trunk, only a couple inches off the ground.  In my case, there wasn't very much holding it on so I cut it off the rest of the way.  My concern is that it left a large opening in the trunk close to the soil surface.  Like you, I was also wondering whether I should fill this with something to keep it from being an entry-way for diseases, just pile mulch over the area, or leave it to the open air.  I made the snap decision to cover it with mulch in order to protect the base of the tree from cold weather.  My guess is that filling the hole with a foreign substance might cause more problems than it solves.  Figs seem pretty resiliant and I would guess it will heal over in time.  Has anyone had experience with this?
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Posted Reply with quote  #17 
Tractor Supply carries Vet Wrap in their horse supply area.  Its a stretchy self adhesive gauze wrap for legs. Used it on a potted fig the cat decided to sleep on and broke the main trunk. Wrapped the trunk, it healed and is doing fine now. Since it stretches, it can be left in place for quite a while. Comes in colors from the unobtrusive to patterns that make a fashion statement.  If you have small kids that play around the tree, a  bright pattern might be a good choice to remind them that this tree needs some extra TLC while it heals.
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james

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Posted Reply with quote  #18 
The split is most likely cold damage due to fluctuating temps. I see these splits every winter at crouches and along the limbs. The damage from contraction and expansion is more significant when it separates the layers of wood. This acts as a girdle which disrupts any flow of moisture/nutrients above it. The best I can offer is the tree will grow new branches from healthy wood or from the roots if the damage goes low enough.
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Aaron4USA

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Posted Reply with quote  #19 
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheFigster
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheFigster
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aaron4USA
Vic, you need to wrap the splitting branch with something elastic and breathable... do you have access to medical supply store? there are types of bandaid wraps that look like white 1-3 inch wide and long , so they come in a roll form in a pack. one side is elastic fabric the other side sticky so it adders. you can wrap the entire branch where the crack is and leave it like that for a long time, by the mid spring you'll have a brand new branch all healed and fresh.
I might be able to come up with something like that.. I have a great big z-medical kit that I used to use when my kids hurt themselves.. so wrap it with like gauze?
What do you fill the hole that is in the branch where the split is so that it will heal over????
wrap it like a gauze , but not just one spot, start from the bottom and gradually go upwards.
don't fill the gaps with anything, cambium will grow on edges and will become one piece again, just like grafting.
Aaron4USA

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Posted Reply with quote  #20 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rewton
Figster, I hope I'm not hijacking your thread but I had something similar happen to my in-ground Kathleen's Black in November when I was wrapping it for winter.  I bent one of the low branches upward to tie it close to the main trunk and it snapped at the base of the trunk, only a couple inches off the ground.  In my case, there wasn't very much holding it on so I cut it off the rest of the way.  My concern is that it left a large opening in the trunk close to the soil surface.  Like you, I was also wondering whether I should fill this with something to keep it from being an entry-way for diseases, just pile mulch over the area, or leave it to the open air.  I made the snap decision to cover it with mulch in order to protect the base of the tree from cold weather.  My guess is that filling the hole with a foreign substance might cause more problems than it solves.  Figs seem pretty resiliant and I would guess it will heal over in time.  Has anyone had experience with this?
Apply melted paraffin on the open wound area with brush, make sure the wax is really hot to start with very thin layer first and re aply until you have a nice whitish color and leave it uncovered. the sun eventually will make it really nice and sticky where all the sharp edges of hardwood are.
Aaron4USA

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Posted Reply with quote  #21 
Quote:
Originally Posted by bullet08
noticed my I-258 has split where the new branch came off the old wood where it rooted from. i'll just put mine in bigger container and bury it under the soil. i'm sure it will root around there in few months and it will be fine. if not, i'll be looking for I-258 cuttings agian. 
bullet, I'd apply melted paraffin on your plant too before berrying the crack under soil to prevent fungal attack. 
Rewton

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Posted Reply with quote  #22 
Thanks for the suggestion, Aaron.  I'll give this a try when I unwrap my tree in early March or so.  Maybe at that time I'll show a photo of what I am talking about - it as actually a small cavity that goes into the trunk a bit.  So it does seem concievable that insects or fungus could be a problem.  You read about cases where a homeowner wants to remove a fig tree, and cuts it down at the base, but it keeps sending up new shoots.  So I don't think its a question losing the tree but just keeping it as healthy as possible.
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Posted Reply with quote  #23 
Cut it off. If possible root it. Figs grow so fast I'd just snip. What are the chances if you wrap it up that you'll seal in a pathogen that can cause further damage. Even it it seems to heal will you be creating a weak point that could causes worse problems in the future?
Sealing injuries with things like that tar like "wound sealer" are actually worse for the tree, so I'm not sure sealing the injury is the right thing to do.
Any pics?
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bullet08

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Posted Reply with quote  #24 
if left alone, shouldn't it grow around it or heal itself? i had few that were chewed up by my puppies and they seems to have healed very nicely without any help from me. 
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Pete
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"don't talk to me about naval tradition. It's nothing but rum, sodomy and the lash." - sir winston churchill
"the problem with socialism is that eventually you run out of other people's money." - the baroness thatcher

***** all my figs have FMV/FMD, in case you're wondering. *****
***** and... i don't sell things. what little i have will be posted here in winter for first come first serve base to be shared. no, i'm not a socialist...*****
bullet08

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Posted Reply with quote  #25 
good article. 

http://plantclinic.cornell.edu/factsheets/barksplitting.pdf
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Pete
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"don't talk to me about naval tradition. It's nothing but rum, sodomy and the lash." - sir winston churchill
"the problem with socialism is that eventually you run out of other people's money." - the baroness thatcher

***** all my figs have FMV/FMD, in case you're wondering. *****
***** and... i don't sell things. what little i have will be posted here in winter for first come first serve base to be shared. no, i'm not a socialist...*****
TheFigster

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Posted Reply with quote  #26 
Thanks bullet for your link... this is exactly what I was needing... probably because my tree is so young and too much cold lately... I still am wondering though about what to fill the crack with until it gets warm??? any suggestions???P1010001.JPG P1010002.JPG P1010003.JPG P1010005.JPG P1010005.JPG P1010006.JPG P1010006.JPG P1010007.JPG  P1010004.JPG

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WISH LIST:I'M IN ZONE 8A BY FORT WORTH, TX  I prefer very sweet figs and two crops a year if possible.  I am now only planting fig trees with green or yellow flesh when ripe! 
mgginva

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Posted Reply with quote  #27 
Although I doubt this is the reason -- cicada females will split pencil sized branch ends to lay their eggs. Looking out over my back yard this year it was amazing how many branches had browned from these little critters.
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saxonfig

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Posted Reply with quote  #28 
Hey figster.  I'm not sure how cold it has gotten where you are but the damage does look like cracking due to freezing. I know most of the country has experienced some extra cold temps so far this winter. Your tree may do some dying back because of this. If it does, I would just wait to see where any new growth may start growing from before trimming off any dead wood.

If you really want to fill that crack you could use wet clay. If you have a local, natural, source that would work fine. You could also "make" some clay mud by using certain kitty litters. Some of the cheapest, most basic cat litters are 100% clay. Just read the label to make sure before purchasing a bag. Mix some up with water until you get the consistency of modeling clay (or thereabouts). Then just pack it in wherever yo need it. You may have to re-apply it after heavy rains.

I've gotten natural clay just by digging down a foot or so on my own property. I've used it with good results to patch up the top of larger rootstocks (2"+) when grafting persimmons.

Hope this helps.
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TheFigster

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Posted Reply with quote  #29 
Quote:
Originally Posted by saxonfig
Hey figster.  I'm not sure how cold it has gotten where you are but the damage does look like cracking due to freezing. I know most of the country has experienced some extra cold temps so far this winter. Your tree may do some dying back because of this. If it does, I would just wait to see where any new growth may start growing from before trimming off any dead wood.

If you really want to fill that crack you could use wet clay. If you have a local, natural, source that would work fine. You could also "make" some clay mud by using certain kitty litters. Some of the cheapest, most basic cat litters are 100% clay. Just read the label to make sure before purchasing a bag. Mix some up with water until you get the consistency of modeling clay (or thereabouts). Then just pack it in wherever yo need it. You may have to re-apply it after heavy rains.

I've gotten natural clay just by digging down a foot or so on my own property. I've used it with good results to patch up the top of larger rootstocks (2"+) when grafting persimmons.
Thanks saxonfig.... I will definately try using the clay as you suggested.. that sounds like the best thing for me to use... 
THANKS AGAIN!!!


Hope this helps.
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hoosierbanana

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Posted Reply with quote  #30 
I had damage like that last year and although some branches leafed out and did not have much damage the trunk showed more cracking as the season went on because the live strips of cambium in the trunk swelled. It only grew maybe 6-12" and then quickly fruited, although the friggin figs all had dry spots on the bottom because they could not get enough water through the trunk to develop correctly. I am going to prune it back to a sucker but looking back I wish that I had removed the whole trunk last spring. 

I am not saying that will happen with your tree for sure but thought you would like to hear my experience. 
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rcantor

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Posted Reply with quote  #31 
I would make air layers in the Spring and leave nothing damaged on the in-ground trunk.  Until then I'd cover it with something water repellant like coban/vet wrap to keep it from splitting more in the next freeze.  I think packing anything in there makes splitting further more likely unless it made it impossible for water to enter.
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Posted Reply with quote  #32 
It's funny.. the trunk on mine doesn't show any damage what-so-ever yet!!  but i've had it covered by leaves almost all winter and a thick pile of them at that...
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TheFigster

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Posted Reply with quote  #33 
Quote:
Originally Posted by rcantor
I would make air layers in the Spring and leave nothing damaged on the in-ground trunk.  Until then I'd cover it with something water repellant like coban/vet wrap to keep it from splitting more in the next freeze.  I think packing anything in there makes splitting further more likely unless it made it impossible for water to enter.
I'm still waiting to see if the trunk is going to get any damage to it.. as of yet, no damage that I can see at all to it..
the splitting starts at the first branch up from the bottom and then all the rest going up to the top of the tree...
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DallasFigs

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Posted Reply with quote  #34 
So you have 2 splits there.. If it were me, I would following rcanters advice based on those pictures.  As those branches grow and get heavier, they are bound to break due to weakness.  Granted, it may be a few years till then... but...

I would air layer the two side branches right above the split and also the tree top right above the top split branch.  That sill leaves a good tall base (close to 3 feet?) that should put out all new branches.  And you might even be able to root the in between waste material (leave a bud above the top split).  When it roots, plant it deep enough to cover the splits.

Good Luck!  Let me know if you want to get together and compare figs :)

Edit:  I left that part out (Thanks Bob),  After the air layers, cut off the damaged part just below the bottom split.  That would be the piece I meant about rooting as a new tree.
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rcantor

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Posted Reply with quote  #35 
What I mean is cut all damage off from what remains in the ground.
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TheFigster

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Posted Reply with quote  #36 
Quote:
Originally Posted by DallasFigs
So you have 2 splits there.. If it were me, I would following rcanters advice based on those pictures.  As those branches grow and get heavier, they are bound to break due to weakness.  Granted, it may be a few years till then... but...

I would air layer the two side branches right above the split and also the tree top right above the top split branch.  That sill leaves a good tall base (close to 3 feet?) that should put out all new branches.  And you might even be able to root the in between waste material (leave a bud above the top split).  When it roots, plant it deep enough to cover the splits.

Good Luck!  Let me know if you want to get together and compare figs :)

Edit:  I left that part out (Thanks Bob),  After the air layers, cut off the damaged part just below the bottom split.  That would be the piece I meant about rooting as a new tree.
I actually have 8 splits all over the tree in places... i'd have to cut the tree in 1/2 for all the splitting to be gone and I don't want to do that..
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Posted Reply with quote  #37 
Quote:
Originally Posted by bullet08
if left alone, shouldn't it grow around it or heal itself? i had few that were chewed up by my puppies and they seems to have healed very nicely without any help from me. 
I guess it's possible that it could heal itself, I guess I'll just have to wait and see what happens come spring...
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TheFigster

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Posted Reply with quote  #38 
Quote:
Originally Posted by bullet08
good article. 

http://plantclinic.cornell.edu/factsheets/barksplitting.pdf
ALSO, I noticed that you cannot add pictures to the replies unless the pictures are in your pictures folders on your computer.. in-other-words, you can't have the pictures on your desktop or anywhere else as for some reason it won't pick them up and will refuse to add them on your articles...
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WISH LIST:I'M IN ZONE 8A BY FORT WORTH, TX  I prefer very sweet figs and two crops a year if possible.  I am now only planting fig trees with green or yellow flesh when ripe! 
DallasFigs

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Posted Reply with quote  #39 
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheFigster
Quote:
Originally Posted by bullet08
good article. 

http://plantclinic.cornell.edu/factsheets/barksplitting.pdf
ALSO, I noticed that you cannot add pictures to the replies unless the pictures are in your pictures folders on your computer.. in-other-words, you can't have the pictures on your desktop or anywhere else as for some reason it won't pick them up and will refuse to add them on your articles...



Never had that problem.  I upload pics from c:\temp all the time.
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Posted Reply with quote  #40 
Hi TheFigster,
The choice is yours, but I'll give you my opinion :
You "must" find a way that rain and water don't get in .
If water gets in the wounds, the crack will grow wider during the freeze unfreeze during the winter.

Those branches are weakened, and leaving them like that is, I think, not the best option .
I would shorten the branches while leaving 2 or 3 nodes of the branches to the tree.
If you want to save that strain, try to root the cuttings right now - to see if something is still alive in them.
Whatever the option you take, I would put a plastic bag over the tree to avoid water to get in the wounds.

I have a tree with such a wound at 50/70 cm from the ground - a February 2012 wound . The wound is in between two branches, and the half upper part of the bark died/dried out .
Believe me or not, the stem is still performing well and it did fruit for me this year 2013.
That stem is on my actual bigger fig tree - that (after pruning still) has 4 or 5 stems growing from the ground and is some 1m70 in height after pinching .

So there is still hope ! While growing the tree will heal those wounds. Spring will tell .
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Posted Reply with quote  #41 
Figster:

Try smearing the splits with a soft, wax.  Wax rings that are used to seal toilet bowls works great.  The rings are cheap, and the wax -at room temps. - is soft and pliable.  You will be able to scrape off some wax and with your warm fingers, smear those cracks full of wax, which will prevent water from re-entering the crack, getting under the bark, and then,  when re-freezing, cause more splitting.  Before sealing the cut with the softened wax, dust the open bark-split with powdered cinnamon....then, seal with wax.  Tie the affected branches to the stake, and take the downwards pressure off them.  The branches will sag when they are once again loaded with leaves.  As the branches get thicker and stronger, the bark splits will heal over.  Alternatively, you could tie the affected branches to the central main-stem, to prevent sagging, due to weight, ice, snow wind, etc.  In other words....do what it takes to stop those branches from bending downwards.

By the way, I use this 'cinnamon and sealing wax' method to coat/protect all pruning cuts, and seal off the ends of cuttings used for rooting.


(Personally, I think the bark splits are the results from freezing/thawing cycles).  They will eventually heal over as new cambium rolls into the bark cracks.

************************************************************************************************

GENERAL QUESTION TO FORUM MEMBERS: 

HAS ANYONE EVER USED "WILT-PRUF" TO COAT BARE BRANCHES...TO HELP PREVENT DESICCATION AND BARK-SPLITS?  I read that WILT-PRUF can be brushed onto the exposed branches, and mainstems, using a foam brush.

Would a coat of "white-wash" prevent these kind of bark-splits?  My trees show some of the same damage from splitting bark....I'm thinking about either trying the whitewash, or "WILT-PRUF". 

I would rather not have to deal with cracking bark if it could be prevented.


Frank
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bullet08

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Posted Reply with quote  #42 
if the issue is due to dry weather and sudden increase in water intake, solution is keeping the soil moist at all time, and not giving large amount of water when the tree is waking up. but with trees in ground. how do you do that? if the issue is freezing and thawing.. i guess you can protect the tree so it won't freeze over. 
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***** all my figs have FMV/FMD, in case you're wondering. *****
***** and... i don't sell things. what little i have will be posted here in winter for first come first serve base to be shared. no, i'm not a socialist...*****
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Posted Reply with quote  #43 
If this issue is in fact, weather related, i.e. expansion of juicy bark tissue, freezing, then shrinking....which opens up splits in the bark, there would be no effective way to prevent this from happening to in-ground trees in colder climates.  Water at the roots cannot be controlled.  Neither can the  freeze/thawing cycles, and weather conditions.  In ground trees are at the mercy of Mommy Nature....period.

You may get a break if the trees are buried, and heavily mulched.  But that kind of treatment would always limit the size of the tree....and  the side branches will need to be  tied to the trunk like a Christmas tree, before the burial.  It's a lot of work.

Bottom line:  Growing fig trees in less than ideal climates will always give the grower some agita.   There is really no control once tree is in the ground.


Frank
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Posted Reply with quote  #44 
sometimes i'm rather glad i'm going with container culture. our weather has been rather cold for our area recently. this morning it was 18 F outside. it doesn't go that low too often here. 
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Durham, NC
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"don't talk to me about naval tradition. It's nothing but rum, sodomy and the lash." - sir winston churchill
"the problem with socialism is that eventually you run out of other people's money." - the baroness thatcher

***** all my figs have FMV/FMD, in case you're wondering. *****
***** and... i don't sell things. what little i have will be posted here in winter for first come first serve base to be shared. no, i'm not a socialist...*****
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Posted Reply with quote  #45 
May be a hard pill to swallow.
But
Its best to cut it bellow any cracks even if that means chopping way down low and having just the main left with no branches new ones will form next season from nodes on main trunk.

Its a mission and should grow like a weed like Mission is known for and should grow to same size the following year.

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Posted Reply with quote  #46 
Steve,

Just wanted to add to the wax reply. Last summer I bent a large aggressive shoot coming out the main trunk of my white nectarine to see if it would train into a good new scaffold branch. It broke out of the main trunk leaving a large hole. I filled the hole like suggested above with a brush and hot wax. It has healed up rather nicely.
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Posted Reply with quote  #47 
Vic I just saw your posted pics... If that's the damage you were talking about then it's nothing horrible. I thought I would see a greater split damage like all along the branch , even the hardwood split. In the pics what I see is just a retracted cambium/bark, you can just brush that area with melted paraffin and leave it alone. It will fill up within few months as the tree gets a burst of grown soon due to warming weather. Don't wrap the branch with anything. ;)
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Posted Reply with quote  #48 
Quote:
Originally Posted by bullet08
if left alone, shouldn't it grow around it or heal itself? i had few that were chewed up by my puppies and they seems to have healed very nicely without any help from me. 
Pete you are absolutely right about it. trees heal and life goes on... covering /protecting the wound doesn't hurt either , specially, when it's cold, wet and exposed to all sort of environment. So I find paraffin being very useful when applied on open wound areas of the plants. Precaution and prevention :)
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