JackHNVA
Registered:1352380899 Posts: 519
Posted 1385560737
Reply with quote
#1
Given our common passion with figs, I have always been curious about olives. I visited a friend in MA and she was growing container olives succesfully. I am aware of the tenderness and non hardness nature, drainage issues, humidity issues, etc. Anyone try in mid Atlantic zone 7.? I seen some blogs discuss this for eastern shore MD, but they still needed above 20 degree winters and full southern exporures. Given they way we fuss and care for figs, I have been seriously thinking why not?
__________________ Zone 7
Celeste, White Marseilles, Beer's Black, Green Greek, White Italy one unknown, Chicago hardy, White Naples, Portuguese Black, Italian Honey.Black Bethleham, Sal's C, Several unknowns.
Looking for dark sweet types from Azores and southern Spain (figs, not women), 2014 goal is to acquire Kathleen Black
m5allen
Registered:1378496146 Posts: 153
Posted 1385562465
Reply with quote
#2
I grow olives in containers, but I live in Florida. I think your winter might be a little too cold, but if you have the flexibility to move them inside to a sunny location, it could work. I would put them in the ground, but I am renting where I am at right now. I have a Kalamata and an unkown green. I have them in some pretty large plastic containers that I bought at Wal Mart. Neither has produced fruit yet. I have read that especially in containers, it could take 5-6 years to produce fruit. The fruit is a nice bonus, but I also just like they way they look. I will try and post up some pics later.
__________________ -Mike Tampa, FL Zone 9b. Growing: Black Madeira, CDDG, Malta Black, VDB, Petite Negra, LSU Purple, Celeste, Battaglia, Alma and Grasa's Unknown Seattle Purple
timmy2green
Registered:1304271666 Posts: 196
Posted 1385568041
Reply with quote
#3
Jack, I'm curious did they actually have fruit in Mass, did the entire flower to fruit process take place in Mass or did they receive the tree with fruit on it, and what was the variety? The reason is that I too was very interested in growing olives, given that i already grow many tropical fruit trees, most of which don't produce, and have successfully grown another mediterranean fruit (pomegranate) in upstate NY. The issue I encountered after a great deal of research came from a discussion with an olive expert at some Univ. in Calif. He has presentations all over the internet and i contacted him and basically what he told me is that the conditions necessary for olives to flower and pollinate require a very specific window of temp during a specific time of year in early winter I think. And so to reproduce those conditions to achieve bloom and pollination in NY he said would be near impossible unless you had some sort of climate controlled greenhouse room because they need a ton of sun, combined with like 50 degrees temps or something. Sorry I kind of forgot the details but remember the gist. If there's hope, I want to try it. I actually was thinking about it recently. Timmy
__________________ Saratoga, NY - Zone 5a Wish List: Sbayi, Poona, Panevino Dark, Lebanese Red, Sumaki, Raspberry Latte, Negretta, Italian 258, De La Reina MP.
MariannaMiller
Registered:1368495473 Posts: 261
Posted 1385569212
Reply with quote
#4
Just had a conversation about Olives with the folks at oregoneolives.com (also see oregonOlivetrees.com). I was told that Zone 8 is about the limit for olives although they indicated the past few winters their low temps have been closer to zone 7 temps than zone 8. Their thoughts were that selecting the most cold hardy varieties and growing them in containers and bringing them inside till the trunks are at least 1" in diameter before putting them in ground in zone 7 could work. After that, even with protection, given a harsh winter, all could be lost. Pretty sure I have frozen ours by waiting too late to bring them in but plan to start over with hardier varieties this spring.
__________________ Wish list: Patlicans, Adriatic, Salem Dark, Lebanese Red, Conadria In Ground: Alma, Brunswick,Bryant Dark, BT, Celeste, Dominic, HC, It. Honey,LSU Purple, Mission Black, Sarizeybek; In pots: Ashlan, Atreano, Blk Bethlehem, El Molino Unk.,Excel, DK, Gr. Ischia, Kadota, Lattarula, Nero 600, VDB, Olympian, Petit Negri, Unk. Plainfield, Unk. Slidell Blk, Sweet George, Unk Portuguese Purple, Unk. It. Yellow, White Genoa, White Tx Everbearing; Madison SC 29693 (7a/7b)
Tonycm
Registered:1314411773 Posts: 922
Posted 1385569528
Reply with quote
#5
I'd like to know more info too. I've been tossing that idea around for awhile but haven't really looked into it. Maggie (italiangirl74) grows olive trees in PA. Maybe she'll see this post and can give us some information as to whether she has gotten fruit from her trees. Jon you need to make an Olive Forum. lol
__________________ Zone 6a Sarver, PA Wish list; Rafed's Genovese Nero
Feigenbaum
Registered:1377643723 Posts: 382
Posted 1385570523
Reply with quote
#6
I also grow 2 little Olivetrees. Although I wouldn't try to put them into the ground here in 7b Germany, the bigger one fruits since I got it and after thinning the fuit out, the olives also rippens to a dark blue colour. But only maybe 8 to 10 fuits I left on the tree. I would say they're are both 6 or 7 years old...This year I got no olives at all cause a storm took all the blooms away.
So I would say in a good summer it's possible to rippen olives in a 7b zone. You should give them a early start into the season with a greenhouse like I do. In may into a sunny, chilly spot.
__________________ Hi from Germany! (Zone 7b) Christian
Gina
Registered:1330452963 Posts: 2,260
Posted 1385571548
Reply with quote
#7
Olives grow easily here (so Calif). Many people and businesses landscape with them. Many churches too. They are mostly grown decoratively and not for fruit. If you try to grow them for the fruits, a process of some sort is needed to make them useful. If grown for oil, you'd need a lot of them, and access to someone who processes them to extract the oil. That is fun to experience, but very expensive. Unless you have a lot of olives, it costs more to extract the oil than it does to buy good olive oil for a year. That's not counting watering and pruning and insect control (olive fly maggot mainly), and other care of the trees. I know people who have planted mini orchards for the oil. I really don't see the point of doing it on a small scale. You do get good oil however, especially if you have planted good varieties. Even our local Home Depot was selling some nice varieties for oil. If you want to harvest the fruits to process into eating olives, that's another task. There are a couple ways to cure olives, but most commonly you pick them when half ripe, soak them in lye and then flush them with many washes of water, then whatever the final solution they are put in. I've done that just for fun years ago. (and it was fun) But just once. I think you'd have to do it several times to get a really good end-product. There is probably better information available now than I was able to find.
__________________ WillsC's new fig forum: http://www.Ourfigs.com (and blueberries)
Sas
Registered:1350079929 Posts: 1,363
Posted 1385580101
Reply with quote
#8
I visited an olive orchard here in Texas about five years ago(Not the one mentioned below), bought two small trees in a one gallon container and planted them immediately in the ground. They are unprotected and managed to survive so far. They are slow growers due to the nature of the soil perhaps and I didn't do anything for them so far except watch them grow very slowly. So far no sign of fruit and regardless whether I get fruit or not, these are beautiful trees in my yard. There is a relatively new high density olive orchard not far from my house. They planted 23,000 trees on 33 acres in a location that is not known for olives. Their mix consists "of 17,000 Arbequina, 4,500 Koroneiki and 1,500 Arbosana trees." Arbequina their primary variety, does not need cross-pollination."Koroneiki: A Greek variety known for its anti-oxidant properties and light, fruity flavor. It produces small olives, but with greater yield. We are using Koroneiki trees as a cross-pollenator. The tree is of medium vigor with a spreading habit and an open canopy. The leaves are elliptic lanceolate; short and narrow. The fruit is small ovoid and slightly asymmetric. It ripens early and has high and constant yields with a very high content of oil. The Koroneiki variety is an early bearer which also flowers early and produces lots of pollen. They are often planted with Mastodies as a pollenizer.
Arbequina: A Spanish variety that is prized for its high quality, buttery oil with a lightly peppered finish. It is a tree of medium vigor with a weeping shape. It has a crown of average size and produces a small amount of new wood each year. The leaves are elliptical lanceolate in shape and shiny dark green in color. The fruit is spherically symmetrical in shape, small in size (1.75 – 2.0 grams) with a rounded top. Fruit is black at maturation which occurs in mid season (the second half of November), but not all at once. The yield in oil is good (20 – 22%), of excellent quality with good organoleptic characteristics.Arbosana : A Spanish variety that is small in stature with high yields. The yield in oil is very good (19-20%), and the oil has a unique fruity flavor. This variety is late maturing with high producing fruit with a tendency toward alternate bearing. Resistant to leaf drop and cold, this is a tree of lower vigor and high productivity leading to high density planting." You can read about what they did here:http://txolive.com/ Below are Photos of my two olive trees
Attached Images
20131127_Olives.JPG (520.74 KB, 29 views)
20131127_Olives_2.JPG (482.47 KB, 28 views)
__________________ Sas from North Austin TX Zone 8B Wish list: Becane
JackHNVA
Registered:1352380899 Posts: 519
Posted 1385600032
Reply with quote
#9
excellant feedback folks. Yes, my friend had fruit on her trees in MA . Many blogs on this topic, but the basic advice is in MD and VA its best to container them, unless one has a very protected southern sunny spot and winters above 20.
__________________ Zone 7
Celeste, White Marseilles, Beer's Black, Green Greek, White Italy one unknown, Chicago hardy, White Naples, Portuguese Black, Italian Honey.Black Bethleham, Sal's C, Several unknowns.
Looking for dark sweet types from Azores and southern Spain (figs, not women), 2014 goal is to acquire Kathleen Black
DesertDance
Registered:1247674606 Posts: 4,518
Posted 1385602616
Reply with quote
#10
One day 3 years ago, while golfing, I noticed all these green olives on the trees. HUGE ones. So, we played about 3 rounds of golf, and I got tons of giant green olives! Also many suckers from the trees. I planted the suckers and two survived. I have two olive trees in ground, and they haven't fruited yet, but when they do, I expect some nice harvests. As Gina mentioned, almost everyone in Southern California has olive trees. At the end of our street they line the corner. They are big, fruit bearing olives, so they will be nice pollinators for mine. Lye is used for the black olives. Green ones are so easy. Brine for many weeks, and keep changing the brine. I also brine garlic, herbs and citrus slices and peel and add those into the ball jars when the red wine vinegar goes in for preserving the delicious olives. They get better every year. I keep them in a really dark cool place. Zone envy is a terrible thing, and we all have it! If I were you, living in a cold climate, I would try my best to container a couple olives!! I did try blueberries in the heat, but it was too much work for one berry! LOL! And JD and I split the little thing! Good luck! Suzi
__________________ Zone 9b, Southern California. "First year they sleep, Second year they creep, Third year they leap!" Wish List: I wish all of you happy fig collecting! My wishes have been fulfilled!
Figfinatic
Registered:1330272993 Posts: 761
Posted 1385603668
Reply with quote
#11
Are they as easy to propagate? I didn't know you can grow them in a pot. I love olives just the way you described with the garlic, herbs, and citrus. Anyone want to trade a green olive for a fig tree?
__________________ Wish: Sbayi, passiflora incense, quadrangularis or others
purplesandwich
Registered:1383877976 Posts: 43
Posted 1385605987
Reply with quote
#12
I have tried about 3 times to grow them from cuttings but with no success.
__________________ Kevin Spiteri
----new but I have BTM6(a Hybrid bought in Thailand)Turkish brown, Black Mission,White Geona, Kadota, Green(from Turkey not sure of correct name) and Nut Fig(from Turkey not sure of corect name)
whish list---at this time just a Fig
BexleyRabbit
Registered:1375322533 Posts: 229
Posted 1385607363
Reply with quote
#13
Quote:
Originally Posted by purplesandwich I have tried about 3 times to grow them from cuttings but with no success.
Some are extremely difficult to propagate from cuttings. eg Kalamata, which are almost always grafted.
AL_Blake
Registered:1384863607 Posts: 119
Posted 1385607796
Reply with quote
#14
Have an Arbequina in ground here zone 8A...2 year tree and had to pinch off several blooms. Its a beautiful tree throughout the year. Great to have something green to look at in winter
__________________ Blake ZONE 8A AL
Wish list--Want to buy-- Native Black (Becnel farm), Figo Preto, LSU (Red, St. Gabriel Black, Scott's Yellow, Late Black, #156, #5), CDD B/G/N, Excel, Texas BA-1, RDB, Nero 600m, Sal's Corleone (Belleclare Nursery variety); Cajun Gold
BronxFigs
Registered:1333154764 Posts: 1,864
Posted 1385652058
Reply with quote
#15
Wow! What a coincidence. I was just looking at all the Olive sites, and contemplating trying to grow some Olive trees in NYC/7b. I will grow them for ornamental purposes, and cannot envision waiting for enough fruit production to process my own Olives. The Italian deli sells them. Besides, I'm basically lazy and hate to do unnecessary work. From what I have read, processing olives can be a huge PITA....and has to be done right, or the olives will spoil. One day while driving in my neighborhood, I spotted an Olive tree planted in-ground, in a front yard, and I have also seen two Olive trees planted into 25 gallon containers. I would suspect that the containerized trees might get moved into a warm, sunny area for the winter months. I will keep my eye on the in-ground tree to see if it gets uprooted, and moved for the winter months. EDIT: 12/5/13 The 4 ft. Olive tree is still planted in the ground, and we had some below freezing weather here in NYC. I will continue the vigil. I also read that "Mission" olives can survive down to 8-10 degrees. I may send for some small trees and try them come next spring. If they die, they die. NYC sure ain't the sunny hills of Sicily....but, if I can grow figs, why not Olive trees? I'll know the answer, next year. Frank
__________________ Bronx, NYC Zone-7
Wildforager
Registered:1237648107 Posts: 365
GregMartin
Registered:1370378358 Posts: 550
Posted 1386239434
Reply with quote
#17
Hi Little John, I have 'Yellow' (Yantarnii), 'Red Star' (Vidubetskii), and 'Kazanluk' They are only just starting to bear a few fruit. Can't wait until they are pumping them out! If you're interested in scions from any of those drop me a message. I've been told grafting can be tricky? Have you grafted C.mas and is there a best method you recommend? What varieties of C.mas do you have?
__________________ zone 5 Maine Seeking: Saint Martin, Naples White, Black Tuscan, Bécane, French Alps, Abruzzi, Tenica, Wild Mountain Figs from the coldest corners (Iranian, Turkish or other...would love seeds too)
GregMartin
Registered:1370378358 Posts: 550
Posted 1386241101
Reply with quote
#18
Little John, I just went to your link...haha...I've been to it before. Guess I'm a bit obsessed with C.mas too! I'm guessing the Bulgarian man you mentioned is the same guy who I bought my Kazanluk from. I still need to get my hands on the Russian Giant cultivar!
__________________ zone 5 Maine Seeking: Saint Martin, Naples White, Black Tuscan, Bécane, French Alps, Abruzzi, Tenica, Wild Mountain Figs from the coldest corners (Iranian, Turkish or other...would love seeds too)
Wildforager
Registered:1237648107 Posts: 365
Posted 1386256327
Reply with quote
#19
Greg, email sent!
__________________ Little John Sheboygan, WI Zone 5B Wish List - Florea, Ronde De Bordeaux
manel
Registered:1384140193 Posts: 65
Posted 1386265284
Reply with quote
#20
Quote:
Originally Posted by JackHNVA Given our common passion with figs, I have always been curious about olives. I visited a friend in MA and she was growing container olives succesfully. I am aware of the tenderness and non hardness nature, drainage issues, humidity issues, etc. Anyone try in mid Atlantic zone 7.? I seen some blogs discuss this for eastern shore MD, but they still needed above 20 degree winters and full southern exporures. Given they way we fuss and care for figs, I have been seriously thinking why not?
Jack, I Have an over 50 year old olive tree that produces large olives and my mother-in-law has 2 w/the smaller olives but these days no one picks them. the birds eat them when ripe the rest fall to the ground. In Tucson Az they no longer allow planting the fruit bearing kind because many people are allergic to the pollen. We all seem to want what we don't have don't we? Manny, Tucson,Az Z8b
Sas
Registered:1350079929 Posts: 1,363
Posted 1386300734
Reply with quote
#21
Manny, You might be missing a lot. If I were you I would pick them and pickle them with some salt water. You can find a good recipe here:http://www.ifood.tv/recipe/pickled_green_olives Wash the olives well in lukewarm water. Split each olive two or three times with a sharp fine knife or leave intact. Place in a sterilized glass or earthenware container and cover with salted water, using 1/2 cup salt to every 4 pints (2.5 litres) of water. Place a small plate on top to prevent olives floating on top of the solution . Cover and leave to soak for 6-8 weeks, changing the salted water every week. Make a brine by boiling together 1 cup salt to every 4 cups of water. Allow to cool. Drain the soaked olives and place in a sterilized glass or earthenware container with the lemon wedges and hot green pepper. Cover with the cool brine, replace the plate and seal with an airtight lid. Set aside for approx 6-8 weeks until the bitter taste disappears. Read more at http://www.ifood.tv/recipe/pickled_green_olives#PzqD4287XAE4u4l4.99
__________________ Sas from North Austin TX Zone 8B Wish list: Becane
manel
Registered:1384140193 Posts: 65
Posted 1386313036
Reply with quote
#22
SAS, thanks for the info. Don't get me wrong i enjoy olives very much. Years past I used to cure olives a couple different ways but it's still a lot of work. Where I came from had lots of olive trees and we used to make our own olive oil. We also used to cure olives by the barrel full for our own consumption. What i was trying to say is most people around here don't harvest them and just go to waste. Regards, Manny
dfoster25
Registered:1337044031 Posts: 723
Posted 1386544025
Reply with quote
#23
Here is the olive that I've been growing for about a year and a half. Started it from a 3' pot. Maybe I'm wasting my time. It is labeled Koroniki
__________________ Zone 6, SE MICHIGAN -14F 1-7-14 -23F 2-?-15 6F 1-18-16
Sas
Registered:1350079929 Posts: 1,363
Posted 1386550434
Reply with quote
#24
Dan, From what I've read on that website mentioned above,"Koroneiki: A Greek variety known for its anti-oxidant properties and light, fruity flavor. It produces small olives, but with greater yield. We are using Koroneiki trees as a cross-pollenator. The tree is of medium vigor with a spreading habit and an open canopy. The leaves are elliptic lanceolate; short and narrow. The fruit is small ovoid and slightly asymmetric. It ripens early and has high and constant yields with a very high content of oil. The Koroneiki variety is an early bearer which also flowers early and produces lots of pollen. They are often planted with Mastodies as a pollenizer." I've had my two trees outside in my yard for the past five years now. They are very slow growers but very beautiful trees. I'm not sure what varieties I have, but I know that they are different and one of them they call Mission. I believe that you will need at least two trees for cross pollination if you're looking for fruit. Last year I saw some large olive trees in 35 gallon containers being sold by Loews for about $120 per tree if I recall. I was touched by Bass's story about the gentleman in Pennsylvania who planted a persimmon tree and did not see any results for 13 years and after his death the tree now carries a very heavy crop of persimmons. Your challenge will be the weather. These trees are very sensitive to sharp and sudden fluctuation in temperature especially around the springtime.
__________________ Sas from North Austin TX Zone 8B Wish list: Becane
possum_trot
Registered:1269047402 Posts: 224
Posted 1386570341
Reply with quote
#25
I am growing Arbequina in a pot in zone 6. I have also read that they need good light but cool temps in winter to flower. I am able to put mine in my hoophouse that gets down to 40 degrees when it is cold - just above freezing. But, an unheated enclosed porch or even an unheated room with a window might work.
__________________ Susan
Brown County, Indiana
zone 6