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louborges

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Reply with quote  #1 
I know many try to protect their fig trees from the hard winters by burying or wrapping the trees. The first winter I had a small tree in the ground. Small enough to cover it with a 5 gallon bucket. It overwinter just find because I put a small light bulb inside the bucket with a timer that only went on at night. The second year the tree was bigger and so I covered it with a cardboard box and tried the light bulb thing again but this time it didn’t work. The tree died down to the ground, but came back. This winter I decided a different approach. I built a four wall box of plywood around the tree (1 ft walls by 4 feet high.) and filled it with very dry soil. (the soil here in NM is like powder) So I’m thinking this is like burying it. It is also inside an unheated greenhouse so the soil won’t get wet. Temperatures here can go below zero. What is the opinion of experienced growers who overwinter their trees in cold regions?
 

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Chivas

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Reply with quote  #2 
I have used straw jammed in between a fence around the tree, about 2 feet space between the fence and the tree, first I wrapped it with a burlap layer and covered the fence with burlap then a tarp, leaving a hole at the top, only a couple inches of die back on the newest growth, I did the same with leaves and also celulose insulation same results.  I am doing this year cellulose on the small trees and the larger tree I just wraped with burlap, then bubble insulation (the silver sheets that come on a roll) then wrapped with a tarp, no hole.  I have done the latter method on a 1 year old sapling with good results (I lost about a foot of growth on it though) this tree I did it on this year is 3 years old now, about 7 feet tall and wide.  I think it should be alright, but we will see in spring.  I also tried pete's method (ascpete) for the step over figs, I just drapped a blanket over top of the trees, then a tarp and secured it (only had manure and soil bags to make a nice tight fit.  I will see how this does for me this year, I am hoping for good results as it is the easier method of all. 
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Canada Zone 6B
susieqz

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Reply with quote  #3 
i'm making cages out of 48'' chicken wire, then filling them with pine bark mulch since i use that lots. leaves would be better.

seems like you are using the same method, tho yours is more labor intensive.

of course, plywood provides wind protection, important in nm. i built a fence to do that.

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susie 
wish list:  nothing. i can't grow cuttings  . right now, i have  6 trees showing no signs of fmv. i'd like to keep it that way' 

i was told that if i couldn't deal with fmv, i should grow peaches, so i got a peach tree to live with my clean figs.
hblta

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Reply with quote  #4 
The only concern I would have about your set up is that the soil might be too dry.
the soil because it is so dry might pull moisture out of your plant and dehydrate the fig tree.

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Grant
Kitchener Ontario Canada
Z5b
louborges

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Reply with quote  #5 
Wow, Didn't think of that. I do water the ground around it.  I know that wetness is a problem (freezing and the like) Come April I'll find out.
Thanks for the input.
cis4elk

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Reply with quote  #6 

susieqz,

Why do you think leaves would be better than pine bark mulch?

louborges,

The green unlignigied growth will be the most at risk. I'll be interested to hear your results and what the lowest temperature you get this winter is. Still that dirt has alot of thermal mass, I imagine it retains a good deal of warmth from the sunny days during the cold nites.


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Calvin Littleton,CO z5/6
Wants List: For everyone to clean-up after themselves and co-exist peacefully. Let's think more about the future of our planet and less about ourselves.  :)
jdsfrance

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Reply with quote  #7 
I would protect up to a meter of the trunk.
I would fill the container with compost / dark color.
I would use a dark container as dark colors attrack and keep more the heat.
I would not worry about the water. Watering the ground is enough  .
This is just my opinion :)

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Climate from -25°C to + 35°C
Only cold hardy figtrees can make it here
pvc12

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Reply with quote  #8 
Here is how I have been protecting my two fig trees in upstate NY (zone 5). My trees grew to about 10 ft tall this year. I pruned them to only 2 or 3 trunks and wrapped them in burlap and bent them over and made an arch. I then surrounded them with bags of leaves, and then put some old carpet and then a tarp over it. See Photos:
fig1.jpg fig3.jpg fig4.jpg fig5.jpg


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Paul
NY - Zone 5
FiggyFrank

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Reply with quote  #9 
Nice work Paul!
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Frank
zone 7a - VA
Feigenbaum

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Reply with quote  #10 
Absolutely. Very impressive work Paul!
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Hi from Germany! (Zone 7b) Christian

cis4elk

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Reply with quote  #11 
Very nice indeed Paul. How old are your trees and how long have you been protecting them this way?


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Calvin Littleton,CO z5/6
Wants List: For everyone to clean-up after themselves and co-exist peacefully. Let's think more about the future of our planet and less about ourselves.  :)
GeneDaniels

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Reply with quote  #12 
I live in zone 7, but if feels more like 6 this year. So, since all my fig trees are young, I have prepared them for the cold. The method I used is about like others. First I covered the ground 4-6 inches deep with mulch/manure mix. Then I tied the multi-trunks together, or as close as I could get them. Then I made a cage of chicken wire and filled it with leaves chopped and bagged with my lawn mower, packing them in tightly and then folding the wire over the top. It took about $20 (for wire) and 3 hours to do 3 small trees.
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Zone 7b (Central Arkansas) Seven trees in the ground: Hardy Chicago, Celeste(?), LSU gold, Italian Black, Southern Brown Turkey(?), Strawberry Verte, and Unk yellow.  Trees in pots: VdB, CdD, and Sicilian?
timclymer

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Reply with quote  #13 
We're rated as zone 6b/7a here.  I have 70+ trees in ground to overwinter so I decided to try a simpler method this year.  I simply mulch heavily around the trunk(s) and base of the plant, up to about 6"+.  In the spring I'll spread the mulch out as just normal mulch for the tree.  I'm sure the tops will die back for a lot of the figs but I'm counting on the bases of the trees to survive and push out next year.  For the smallest trees they were essentially buried in mulch.

The whole process took me and my Dad just a few hours to do around 70 trees this way (with the help of a tractor, manure/bedding fork, and a cart), plus this way I won't have to mulch the trees in the spring (though I'll probably spread a little granular lime and fertilizer).

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South Central PA (6b,7a)
Want List: Ital 258, any figs found growing in PA, NJ, or NY
pvc12

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Reply with quote  #14 
Thanks for the words of encouragement!
Calvin, My trees are about 10 yrs old. They spent maybe 5 yrs in pots until I got the courage to plant them in the ground. I would only get a few figs each year from them while they were in pots, but once they were in the ground it was a night/day difference.
The first couple years I just bent them to the ground, mulched with leaves and covered with a few layers of carpet. After that they were too big and I had to start using the bags of leaves which this is my 3rd year doing that.

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Paul
NY - Zone 5
louborges

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Reply with quote  #15 
Today, I unboxed my fig tree. This is the first year I tried this and it worked I have green buds growing. The coldest we got this winter was zero degrees.
susieqz

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Reply with quote  #16 
great news, lou.
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susie 
wish list:  nothing. i can't grow cuttings  . right now, i have  6 trees showing no signs of fmv. i'd like to keep it that way' 

i was told that if i couldn't deal with fmv, i should grow peaches, so i got a peach tree to live with my clean figs.
Feigenbaum

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Reply with quote  #17 
Congratulations!  You did a good job with that insulation.
Your tree will reward you for it with early figs i hope!

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Hi from Germany! (Zone 7b) Christian

jdsfrance

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Reply with quote  #18 
Congrats Louborges . Happy figging !
Mine overwintered well with the dark compost as insulation.

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Climate from -25°C to + 35°C
Only cold hardy figtrees can make it here
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