Few brebas this season, all taken by birds.
There will be a heavy main crop starting by the end of July.

Leaf size/shapes are much diverse.

           

Francisco

So Francisco, Moscatel is Kadota is Pingo de Mel? Nice photos of a lovely plant, by the way!

Gary

Francisco,  

Fruitwise my unknown workhorse tree looks EXACTLY the same as yours. Little white dots...
Take a look at my thread if you like, i posted a picture today.

Francisco, very nice. I have three year tree in a fifteen gallon pot. Last year it did not produce anything. This year I had one breba that was
very good. Unfortunately it is dropping all the main crop.

Thank you fellows.

Gary, This cultivar has far more names than the ones I have indicated... One particular strain gives enormous brebas and an abundant main crop and is known by 7camadas . seven crops - very prolific.
I am trying to root this strain of PM

Christian,  In fact that was the reason to bring up my topic...I knew we were very close and did not wish to leave you alone !
I saw both pictures of your workhorse and agree they are very close...both fruit and leaves are identical. The white dots are there as well and for me these tiny dots are sort of a mystery.
I usually associate these dots plus the fig skin color change to Emerald green, as a sign of successful pollination..it happens with Smyrna, Common and San Pedro's main crop figs
Pollinated Pingo de Mel are excellent figs for the drying industry and in no way are inferior to Calimyrna or Sarilop.

Francisco

Francisco,

I really appriciate your effort, good job!

When i look at the availability here in Alemanha, you can find a Kadota but no Peter's Honey.
So I would say that the probability is higher on that Kadota.
Or PH is sold under a different name/no name here.


But man...those dots, the shape of the leaves...if i had to bet, i would go for Kadota.


...Tenha uma boa noite

Mike,

Thank you. Sorry to hear that your PM do not hold the crop.
There are many potential causes for that but assuming that the tree is not much affected by FMV and is reasonably irrigated, try a good dose of fertigation  + micro nutrients.

For the  traditional organic fertilizing by winter end,  try worm castings and by that time a bit of iron oxide... two coffee spoons per tree (once per season), then follow the general rules for stimulation of fruit growth.. follow the pinching rules and do it..
I use with good results soluble ( 5-8-10) or P-K 13/14. Soil mix in the pot to contain a bit of lime.

With slight variations I do this with good results.. just have a look

shenshare

 

Blk Bourjassot

 

Smyrna

 

Striped Bourjassot




Francisco

Francisco, are those tress in pots?

How old are they?  I keep on reading these papers that says not to let younger than 3 year old have any fruit... I am confused, you know so much, why aren't you going by the books? (silly question)


I have 2 panachees that I grafted last year. I knocked most of the figs, except for 2, as I am curious and by the books, I should knock all of them out... Fruits only come on year old growth...so, your tree cannot be older than a year... What am I missing?

they look super good.

YOu are such an inspiration ....

Francisco, thanks for posting great photos and interesting information.

Hello Grasa,

Thanks for commenting  this post.
Yes, all these are in pots and were rooted in the spring of 2013.

You are absolutely right..this time I did not follow the book.

I should not let these figs grow for sake of having  stronger trees in the coming years. All this is part of my 'crazy experimentations' with fertilizer combinations and to observe and judge the results.

They will be up potted next spring for bigger containers or to ground, and only some fig samples will be left to grow..Depending on what they 'tell' me I shall keep same fertigation program or introduce some changes.
On all my potted and some ground figs have reached the conclusion that in general terms, worm castings plus the std micro nutrient package do promote very rapid and vigorous growth on figs. Also,  (still need some more testing) it makes much healthier plants, and seems to help to control FMV.

Once you mentioned Panachées, have a look on this very young fig , rooted in the first half of March/2014. Two thick scions straight into that container, starting to root, open air and with some protection from the canopy of an older fig. I am learning figs every day.
Passe bem !
Francisco

 I knew it! You just want to reinvent fig history like all of us. 

What do you think is best to do, if a cutting sends out a strong shoot from the base? In Brazilian fig literature, it recommends to cut off all others, including the cutting and whatever branches it may have to 'focus' only on the new strong shoot. Sort like your little panache... should  this pratice lead to stronger tree?  What you think? Well, I cannot tell if you did that or your stick in the pot is the old cutting. 

Please explain what you believe is best.  I have several "arvorezinhas encroadas" stunted trees with side branches much stronger. 

question to you and the forum:

Should I chop all of the others branches, and leave only the strong shoot? 

Grasa,

Sorry for this late reply but had the camera through repairs and wanted to let you have a picture of the base of that 2014 Panachée.

What your Brazilian fig literature says, makes good sense.  As a rule, I leave two buds in a scion and the terminal/apical bud always comes off. Doing so you are centering most of the sap flow on the bud immediately under the top of that scion . That's what I did on the young Panachée.

As for your stunted trees, I agree that you may well follow your suggestion.
If in your mind you think it is risky, start with one and monitor the results for further acion on the others

The rationale is similar to when you start for instance a new variety by, say  a T or chip budding,  leaving a nursing branch pulling  sap on the side ... once your graft takes and starts growing strong, you just chop off everything above it . Or when rooting tiny side grafts.

Francisco

     

Thanks Francisco (I enjoy seeing your photos and reading your posts) and Grasa (I think of you as a MacGyver of Figs).

I am not sure what called me to the forum this morning but I am glad that I did. Will one you please direct me to a source for Brazilian fig literature? I am always willing and currently able to read, experiment and learn more. Before posting this reply, I re-read it and found the phrase "stunted tree" which answered my question because my tree is not stunted. Instead of deleting the post, I will ask my question with an amended premise: let's say it is stunted, that is, not growing. 

According to Brazilian fig literature, given the photos attached, and what I have read in the last few post between the two of you, do you recommend that I keep the shoot on the left and "remove" the tree on the right in the first photo? In this case, I would define removal as layering.

Thanks for hypothesizing with me.

 

JD,

I do understand your point but have to confess that I am not at ease theorizing , facing  such a nice tree, and assuming that one side of it is not exactly like the picture shows

I have not read that Brazilian piece of fig literature and I am out of its full context , but had to agree with Grasa when she mentioned the Port. word 'encroada'... which means that that particular side of the tree is not growing at all!
I am sure your tree is different and your next steps for this young and vigorous fig much depend from your plans.
Being all healthy and robust growth with a strong fork configuration, already established in the main trunk , I do not think you need that lower left shoot unless you plan an air layer for next spring.when its wood hardens a bit more.
Hope I have responded to your questions. But Grasa may have a different view.
Francisco