Please adv when is the latest to do fig tree t budding ? 
can I do this for now ?
Thanks

You may try.. In the Med zone this is approx  the time limit for it (Sept) - freshly cut buds on 1 to 2 yr root stock-
All depends on how your root stock allows you an easy separation of the bark ....at this time of the year if successful the grafted buds will stay dormant and will only shoot next spring .. you need to protect through winter
These videos are not specific to figs but the technique is exactly the same

Hi Francisco,

Thank you very much for your valuable informations together with great videos to show me how to do a T-Budding. That helps me a lots with many thanks.

It looks like I can use any tape for wrapping the bud o ensure it can stay on the bark right ? does not have to use special Hidrofilm for wrapping as suggested by other videos.

Thanks and regards

Pacifica

Hi Pacifica
IMO you may use Parafilm.. I do it always with T & Chip budding be it in April/May (for live buds) or August (for dormant)
Some professional grafters just use rafia or the rubber band  or even the cellulosic rubber patch (okulette) as shown by the French fellow.
Most never seal the graft with wax.  Some use cheap transparent  plastic film or electrician plastic self adhesive tape.
You have many options.. up to you to decide (*)

(*) If you encounter problems lifting the bark on your root stock to introduce the scion bud,  you may with a clean, very sharp knife , proceed with ' chip budding'.



Regards
Francisco

T-budding needs to be done when the bark "is slipping". If you can't easily peel back the bark, you can't insert the bud in behind the bark. Usually the bark is "Slipping" when the plant is actively growing and the bark is loose to allow for the expansion/growth of the branch.

Thanks for your great information. I will take your adv and do it still mid Spring 

Pacifica,
For jobs I decide to do 'by the book' .. have been using a Japanese brand -
http://www.buddytape.com/#contact

it's not cheap but IMO is the best
On other occasions , a piece of thin plastic film from the supermarket bags , electrician tape, rubber bands.. etc also do the job

here a fellow doing an early spring apple side graft and using that Jap. tape. ..just for you to see how it works

I've only done T-buds once, with 8/9 success.  I found that the good tape tended to crack and peel unless I used a lot of it.  I think I lost the one bud because the tape loosened.  I think I ended up rewrapping the buds 3 times.  Next time I'm going to try something tougher for 1-2 wraps, maybe surveyor's tape, then cover with the grafting tape.  

If you use a tougher tape, after 2-3 weeks when the graft has "taken", make sure the tape is open near the growing bud.

Timing for t-buds is a bit confusing for me.  In temperate climates the graft window seems much larger.  In cold climates need to worry about winter onset and short growing seasons.
 
Graft basics require that; the bark is slipping and the scion is dormant.

If budding done now the bud will need to survive dormant through the winter and then you need to ensure that the grafted bud can be forced to grow in spring.  
If done in spring when the rootstock is growing/bark slipping then once the graft has calloused over you have still same issue of how do you force that bud to grow?

For fruit trees they suggest cutting off the rootstock above the bud to force growth.  Does that work with figs or can that dry out the bud?