I've been reading the posts, because I am in the same dilemma. I live in Connecticut and the season is basically over. I've purchased some cuttings. I have a grow room in the basement. Im wondering figs do well under lights? All the information in this post is very helpful. Thanks!

Hi Steve, thanks for stopping by.

I ordered a cheap heat pad from China to put under the cuttings and full spectrum LED bulbs for the winter season.

This is the heat pad
http://www.banggood.com/7W-Adjustable-Temperature-Reptile-Heating-Heater-p-915262.html

And the bulbs for my EU sockets
http://www.banggood.com/10W-Full-Spectrum-SMD5730-LED-Grow-Bulb-Greenhouse-Hydroponics-Plant-Seedling-Lamp-p-1051507.html

I found some mold on 3 of the 5 cuttings so I had to remove the cups to aerate. It is probably because of the rooting media I used. I tried putting another transparent bucket over the cuttings to give them more air but that didn't help, got fresh mold overnight. I am waiting for the heat pad to arrive and hopefully help with mold. Until then, I added a lamp with a halogen bulb to provide some heat.

I also have a bunch of seedlings and cuttings rooted over this summer that are too small to go into dormancy, they will benefit from the grow lights.

First version with added heat was this one, with two plastic buckets.

 

Then when I turned off the lights for the night and checked in the morning, they had mold from the low temp and humid environment. Worst was the short cutting with the terminal bud on the original branch.

So I removed the top and now this is how I am trying to root them. The 5th cutting is in a separate location, close to the exhause fan on my PC.

 

Have some buds swelling, hopefully they will put out some roots into the mix.

 

Pics are from yesterday.

used to root year around. problem during the winter is moisture control. most houses in US at lease is rather dry. if you cover the young plant, they will mold soon. if you leave them out, they will dry and die. so it's balance act on how much to air and how much to keep the cover on. one think i tried was once the root is well established, i would move the young plant to the attached garage next to the wall that takes the sun. i had rather good luck with that. it's mild winter down here. 

Hi,
I'd leave them in the fridge and root in March or April. Or better acquire cuttings in March.

Last year this time of the year, I had small rooted airlayers - they all had some roots, but still were not trees.
I left some in the tomato-greenhouse and some came home near the lamp of one of my fish-tanks.
The ones at home rotted due to humidity and lack of light (I suppose).
The ones in the greenhouse, stayed there the whole winter and woke up in Spring just like they were trees.
Of course, the ones I wanted to save most were the ones I had taken home.
So this year, I have some 6 young airlayers, and those young will go to (or already are in) the greenhouse and they better swim !!!

That's a good price for a heat mat.

Gabriel,I think you and me have the same dilemma.I have cuttings from Giorgi Goshev in Bulgaria,Ali Pasha plants.I had to root them so they will be inside all winter.You are on the right track I think from what folks are saying here,,controlled humidity,light and heat are what I found really counts when I have done this with other plants,I guess same applies to figs from what folks have said,also a clean potting media is a great help.I use a humidity box(big clear plastic tub!) up against my radiator in my back room at an angle so moisture drains and doesn't sit under the cups.Results have been positive so far.Ive already had a few of my unknowns graduate to pots and the windowsill after bringing them in from my unheated greenhouse and having them in the humidity box for a week or so,they loved jt.

.I haven't had any problems with mould,I put that down to spraying the cuttings with detol to kill anything and then washing it off and potting them I'm 100% soil-less mix,about 50/50 washed coco coir to perlite( just rough) as I wanted it to drain really well.

I have been looking for a heat mat,I have 'saved' the one you used as it's exactly what I was looking for.I have notoced a trend that light(and top heat)+humidity =leaves, bottom heat+ humidity= roots, so I'm guessing a happy medium between bottom heat,good lights,humidity would be just right.At the moment mine seem to want to leaf before rooting so I will get a heat mat I think which might help.

Important not to keep them too wet,wet+cold= rot=dead.Some of my cuttings in the greenhouse are too cold now so they are rotting.

The grow light bulbs arrived, I installed one of them into an old IKEA desk lamp and placed it above the seedlings and smaller cuttings I rooted over summer.

The bulbs are rated 10W but I suspect they are a lot weaker maybe 5W, hopefully the window and the grow lights will be OK for them to survive the winter.

I am still waiting for the heat mat to arrive, then the lamp on the right will also become a grow light for another shelf and the cuttings go onto the mat.

 
All the lights are connected to an IKEA TANDA mechanical timer set to about 16 hours.
 

Woodville, these grow lights supposedly provide all wavelengths for growth, including uv and infrared. I chose LEDs because of their low consumption, i know there are massive hydroponic systems with HID lights but those produce a lot more heat and require planning and complete ventilation. I just want my seedlings and rooted cuttings to survive winter indoors. The cuttings don't know they have an LED above them, but they get extra light during short and often overcast winter days.

Success.. one of the unknown cuttings just pushed some roots to the side of the plastic cup. This was the only one not resting below the lamp that provides heat.