Hello Luke,

First you will put cuttings (with their green leaf stems still attached) in that gallon sized zip lock plastic bag that you will put inside of an empty quart wide mouth plastic container.......see picture.  You give those cutting air by changing the water very often......shaking too is good.  Don't put too many cuttings in one single plastic bag because they will be using up oxygen while they are in that bag. And you do not want for them to "smother" and get rotten. Remember to keep that bag OPEN at the top. So change that water often and put as much air in it as possible. Use a fish aquarium air pump if you have one. After the stems fall off, then you put them individually in small mouth empty plastic soda bottles. Those cuttings  won't fit in those small mouth bottles until the stems fall off.

Once you have your cuttings in the small mouth soda bottles, you can add air to these by putting your finger on the mouth opening and shaking as directed. As long as you keep oxygen from the air in the bag and oxygen from the air in the soda bottle......you WILL NOT have any problems with any rot or mold. If you do not add air....you WILL have problems. It is very very very simple to insure that you always have oxygen from the air in that water at all times.

Yes, those leaves that open up from a closed bud WILL start photosynthesis right away. That is because those cuttings are already "alive" and the internal pipeline is fully functional. Those leaves will absorb carbon dioxide "from the air" and produce oxygen and more food (energy reserves) for the cutting to use.

Now don't get confused with this.......inside of the bottle where the roots are growing, you can have photosynthesis coming from any algae that is growing on the wall inside of the soda bottle. A cutting needs more oxygen (in this example it will take oxygen "from the water") to combine with its internal energy reserves to make those new root cells that you will see growing. In that biochemical process of creating those "brand new roots" that cutting will make Carbon Dioxide gas "in the root area". In this case, the carbon dioxide that is made BY THE ROOTS will just dissolve "in the water". 

Now algae loves to eat carbon dioxide that is dissolved in water. Carbon dioxide is food for algae. So sometimes you will see algae grow in your rooting bottles. That is not a problem and actually can be quite GOOD. That algae will use the carbon dioxide that those new roots are giving off and dissolving in the water bottles.....to use for itself. That process that the algae is using is called photosynthesis too.

But through photosynthesis, the algae is making food for ITSELF TO USE and to grow even more algae. What the algae does for "the cutting" itself is give it more oxygen. Which is GOOD for the cuttings too. So the algae will remove the carbon dioxide that the cutting makes when new roots are forming and in return the algae will produce more oxygen in the water that the cuttings need to produce even more "new" roots. This is a win win situation for both the algae and for the cutting whenever this does occur.

Don't worry at all about this algae thing. If you see it...fine. And if you don't see it....that is fine too. Just make sure to add air to your water and all will be just fine. Like I've said, this is very very very easy to do. However, there is some real science going on inside of those bags and inside of those bottles.....and I mention that for those who want to know WHY things happen or WHY they sometimes don't happen.

Dan
Semper Fi-cus

So it sounds as if the algae that grew between the plastic and the soil in my one-gallon, translucent milk jug "pots" was beneficial to the figs' roots?

Now we are dipping into one of my cuttent fig propagation research areas...........

Yes it is beneficial....... as long as you don't create an actual algal bloom inside of those plalstic jugs.............all will be OK. And actually it can be very beneficial to your cuttings. You can prevent algae blooms in water environments by changing out the water. As long as it stays bright green in color it should be OK.



Dan
Semper Fi-cus

I am following too, trying to learn.

Hello viciitucson,

This is very very easy to do.....so don't get put off or confused by the side bar discussions. Don't worry at all about this algae thing............

Dan
Semper Fi-cus

Rafed,

I have no firm date in mind and still have tons of more work to do before I am satisfied enough to publish.  My immediate goal is to write "fig tags" which have relevant and real descriptions on them so people will buy those good cultivars.  Few people in my area will buy a Smith fig because they have no idea how good tasting a Smith fig really is...

I am not 100% satisfied with this rooting method that I am now describing to this forum.  But, IMO many people can benefit from this information even thought the method is not yet perfected. In my propagation research efforts I have killed enough fig wood to build a house. But.......I have also rooted enough fig trees to plant a forest.

I love messing around with this fig hobby. One day I might reveal some other very interesting concepts that I am working on. I have to sometimes laugh at myself at some of the off the wall things that I try.

I will give one example of utter failure. A few years ago I was experimenting with blocking a fig's open eye to keep the bugs out. I found something that works and is pretty cheap. I paced an ordere for some of those small little round tags (fruit labels) that you see with the UPC information on the fruit that you buy at the store. Those lables are water proof and they will stick real well (when new) to the eye of a fig and completely block its entrance. I really thought that I had a winner idea. 

HA haaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa......the only problem turned out to be, I gave notification to my fig eating birds exactly which figs were ready to eat!!!

Don't know what happened Dan.
I hit edit but must have pushed delete, sorry

But to everyone wondering.

I asked Dan when he planned on publishing his book on figs.

He had mentioned this a while back.

Hope everyone here will give Dan the support and buy one when he gets it published.

Good luck Dan and looking foreword to seeing it happen.

I'm looking forward to the book, Dan. You're not going to publish it a chapter at a time though, are you? If so, you could call it Fig Tease, by Gypsy Rose Dan. ;-)

I have no intentions of ever making any money with my fig hobby.....only the personal satisfaction that comes when my studies are finally done.  I do know what works well for me. And I certainly don't care a bit what those "horticulturist" have to say. And I sure as heck do not seek their advice nor their approval for anything. This forum can judge for themselves if any of the information that I choose to share is useful to them. It is what it is.....even though there is one guy up in New Jersey who wants me to shut up and get lost. In fact, he has recently accused me of damaging this fig forum. Give me a figging break!! That is not going to happen.....
l---------------------------

There's no damage to teaching someone else.
I don't understand, then maybe this person had other intentions.

Not going to worry about it.


Dan, Are you a Gemini?

My zodiac sign is that of the Cajun.

I have all of the traits of a happy, carefree, hard working, God fearing, and family loving very simple Cajun.  Aaaaaaeeeeeeee!! And I am proud to be a certified Cajun living down here in south Louisiana.

Gemini is for those poor Northerners who choose to live "Way Up North" above Shreveport, La.   LOL.

Dan
Semper Fi-cus 

Yes Dan,

I'm a proud Yankee.
Not born to it but inherited it. LOL

But I love the South and the food.

My ancestors were driven out of French speaking Canada with only the shirt on their backs.......because they flat out REFUSED to bow down and change their religion at the request of England's King George. That is one reason why we Cajuns are fiercely independent and hold on to our own traditions and own values. We have our own unique food, our own unique music, and a definite joyous and carefree...own way of live. Family and religion is at the very center of our lives. How dare king George try to change that!! I'm still pissed at the English monarchy to this day. lol

Dan
Semper Fi-cus

Dan, I, for one, am very glad you're researching, experimenting, and sharing your results. I've learned a lot--keep it up!

Dan,
I used to keep fig and pomegranate cuttings in the water for about two weeks before planting them into the rooting mix. I did this "priming" to minimize the time available for fungus to attack the cutting's bark before the roots emerge. It looks like I have used just one step of your rooting concept in combination with the traditional method.

alright Dan, your going to have to let that go. king george has been dead a few years now. back to the next step, please. hehehe Luke

I got my Butt in trouble right here one time for talking about King George

Dan, I see your method is similar to mine except few things that I really don't think it's necessary for me to explain at this time (don't want to confuse your followers and whoever is learning). But, we both get one thing and it's, roots.

Since you asked me about Algae and how I use it to help me in rooting the cuttings, I will briefly explain that to you. I let algae grow in the bottles after the 3rd week from when the cuttings were placed in the bottles. Algae helps with Nitrogen fixation, Photosynthesis and Carbon fixation. All three will help the roots to provide them with food (Polysaccharides) and Oxygen as one of the by-products of those reactions. It will also decrease the CO2 concentration by converting it into oxygen (Photosynthesis)

But too much algae can have adverse affects on the roots or the cutting. Dead alga will settle at the bottom of the bottle and will be decomposed by bacteria and it will become mold. And we all know what mold can do to the cuttings.



Navid.

BTW maybe you should send me one of those cuttings in your first pic (BB10) so I can grow it beside my NdC and see if they are in fact the same fig or not. I will be getting a Kathleen Blk from a generous member, just need your BB10 :)

Navid,

I did not ask you about Algae as I am already an EXPERT on what algae does in water and its life cycle. I am well aware of its role in producing half of the planet's supply of oxygen. I am also aware of the symbiotic role that algae plays with "living coral" to CREATE those coral reefs......hint, it is a  pH thing that precipitates calcium carbonate through the diurnal photosynthesis cycle.  When algae is growing in water it can (and often will) drastically change the pH of that water. Algae can raise the pH of the water that it growing in to above pH 10.0......how high the pH goes depends on some other water parameters. Chemistry (even some bio chemistry) is my thing. I know chemistry like the back of my hand and I know how to put it to good use in the growing and propagation of figs.

And as you apparently know Navid, green algae CAN DEFINITELY be used to one's advantage when rooting fig cuttings.  One day I "might" post some of my research findings on the use of algae while rooting fig cuttings. But, I will not do that in this thread. That would be WAY too confusing for most newbies......and confusing for some experienced rooters as well. Some would have no idea what the heck we are talking about. Why some are still confused with the "Improved Baggie Method".
-----------------------------------------
General information regarding the mention of "algae" in this thread....

If you see algae develop in your plastic bottles......that is fine. And if YOU DON'T see algae develop in your plastic bottles.....that is perfectly fine too.  DO NOT WORRY at all about this algae thing. Your cuttings will root well for you either way.
--------------------------------------------------
There are some other very interesting things I am working on in regard to this particular rooting method. I may post some of those in another thread so as to not make things more confusing. Like I've already stated, I am not yet 100% satisfied with this method. I want perfection and a fool proof method..............and, IMO, that CAN BE obtained!! And science (not blind luck) will lead the way.

Why, in this particular thread, I haven't even gotten to the part where we will DROP THE WATER LEVEL to try to develop "2 types" of roots. Stay tuned...........

Dan
Semper Fi-cus

Dan,

You said, I did not ask you about Algae.

Then you had asked me in post #19, Navid......you mean you use algae to your advantage too?? And here I am thinking I was on to something new.

That is why I explained what/how algae does help me in rooting. 

Navid.

Navid,

OK. I see that it is just a language interpretation thing. No big deal......
-------------------------
Here is a picture of what we are trying to achieve.  The leaves on this cutting/tree are already used to seeing strong direct sunlight. So they are aleady harden off and have been making food for this now almost tree....while they were sitting on the east facing window sill.  Those roots that developed in this type "rooting environment" are pretty tough too. They adapted "into" that environment which is what makes them tough and multi functional.

Dan, I'm wondering why the Ziploc bag. Why not put the cuttings straight into the bottle? Is it just to make it easier to retrieve the petioles when they drop off?

Ken,

Cuttings which still have the leaf stems left on them will not fit into a narrow mouth bottle. Plus it is very important to remove them from the water when they eventually do fall off. Putting them is a zip lock bag makes it easy to accomplish that. Plus the zip lock bag opening can be adjusted (when necessary) to keep the relative humidity real high near the unopened bud tips so that they cannot dry out. Howeve, since the internal pipeline is sitll functional on a summer cutting they are not very likely to dry out.

You want to root in a narrow mouth clear plastic bottle. IMO, that bottle "shape" is very conducive to good rooting. Notice in the last picture how those roots developed all along that twig.  That was by design (not accident) of the method. Dropping the water level after you see actual twig "barking" and/or "root initials" helps force those types of roots to form.

Control the rooting environment and you can affect the "functionality" of the leaves and roots that develop on your twigs. In other words, take advantage of Ficus Carica's excellent adaptability to the environment in which it grows. Manipullate that environment to your advantage. 

Dan
Semper Fi-cus

And do you actively remove water, or just let it get sucked up by the fig? What do you mean by twig "barking"? Did those roots continue their development as aerial roots in the high humidity of the narrow mouth bottle? At this point, is it ready to transfer to potting medium?

Yes, I physically "drop the water level" in those bottles when I can see Barking or root initials on those twigs. I drop the water level from where it was previously and down to a point where water covers ONLY the bottom most node. That is where the name "Falling Water Level" fig propagation rooting method comes from. That area between the bottom node water level  and the top of the narrow mouth bottle.....is now very conducive to the formation of those aeroponic root types. Those that develop in the water itself are more hydroponic in nature. The combination of BOTH roots types, makes for a very good root system.

Fig Barking is that white "fluffy" stuff that often develops on a fig cutting while it it rooting. Some people confuse it with mold...which it is not. That stuff is easily removed with a toothbrush. And when you remove "that stuff' from the formerly smooth surface of a cutting, you are left with a rough texture on that cutting that now resembles the Bark of a tree. Hence the word Barking..... rather than "that white fluffy stuff that grew on my cuttings."

Dan
Semper Fi-cus