Single node cuttings experiment

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Charlie

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Posted 1418763439	Reply with quote #151

Quote: Originally Posted by rcantor s it possible he media is too wet? I think it is possible. Will cut back on watering these for a few days. They seem quite heavy. __________________ Zone 7A ~ Fort Smith area Arkansas

Charlie

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Posted 1418853925	Reply with quote #152

Black Madeira going for 5 out of 5... Just that one lower right needs to catch up. Next is the first and so far best of five out of ten leafing Gloria's Celeste. Unwaxed. I thought the other day there were six swelling, guess not. Five still not showing. Lowered the light about 1 ft. __________________ Zone 7A ~ Fort Smith area Arkansas

Aaron4USA

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Posted 1418885258	Reply with quote #153

Quote: Originally Posted by Charlie Surprise! There goes the growing straight up without limbs theory lol. This is good and bad. Good they are healthy and growing, bad that I'm really not prepared for limb growth if they all should decide to do this. Charlie, This experiment is a solid testimony (i hope it's the right word) for the Post#13. What a nice work this is. seriously.

Charlie

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Posted 1418901713 · Edited	Reply with quote #154

Quote: Originally Posted by Aaron4USA Charlie, This experiment is a solid testimony (i hope it's the right word) for the Post#13. What a nice work this is. seriously. Sounds good to me. When you said "in term" back in post #13 I kind of thought term meant long term for some reason. Apparently this variety has a short term before limb growth. I wanted them to grow straight up with no limbs but they said no, we're going to bush out now and make it really tough on you for crowding us in here like sardines. :) __________________ Zone 7A ~ Fort Smith area Arkansas

Charlie

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Posted 1419096015 · Edited	Reply with quote #155

Quote: Originally Posted by ChrisK Charlie has near perfect results though as if that room was built for growing cuttings! Maybe your room and everybody else's room is built for growing cuttings and nobody realizes it because they never tried burying them in uncovered pots and monitoring the water closely just to keep moist? Perhaps the mix has a big part of it? I really don't know. The four Red Libya in quarts with pure worm casting are not doing so well compared with the mixes. I think the castings by themselves hold too much water and really considering transplanting them to mix. Hate to lose those four. There are worms living in some of the bowls. Little piles of castings are sure worm sign. Actually saw the worm a couple days ago as it was moving near the surface. There are other things living in the mix also, tiny things I see scurrying about now and then, so it's alive mix and sure to have plenty of beneficial microbes working. It was never packed and lightly watered so it remains loose and aerated. Update on the Atreano which was dropping its leaves. Looks like it finally decided to keep another one. This one even stood up to a water spray. Sitting here I share my view with you. Thinking if I had to do it over with the same probability of success I would have covered the walls and floor with reflective material and only started as many as would fit in gallon pots in the room. __________________ Zone 7A ~ Fort Smith area Arkansas

rcantor

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Posted 1419099921 · Edited	Reply with quote #156

Worm castings definitely aren't going to be aerated enough. I'm a little concerned with your followers lined up in neat little rows like that. It reminds me of photos of N Korea. Are you planning to rule the fig world? :) You will find takers for all the fig plants you can produce, I'm sure. Community gardens and Craigslist for starters. What are the yellow things hanging from the window drapes? You aren't feeding them tequila, are you? __________________ Zone 6, MO Wish list: Galicia Negra, De La Reina - Pons, Genovese Nero - Rafed's, Sbayi, Souadi, Acciano, Any Rimada, Sodus Sicilian, any Bass, Pons or Axier fig, any great tasting fig.

Charlie

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Posted 1419100368 · Edited	Reply with quote #157

Haha! Easier to water all lined up. Those ribbons are sticky traps as are the yellow boards. Have caught quite a few gnats and one big ole fly. Last I got close to tequila, they found me sitting naked on the toilet, passed out and the front door wide open with a straight eye shot into the bathroom. That was about 30 years ago. I did transplant the four Red Libya. Only one had any roots to speak of and it also has a nice small leaf. The other three have gone through stages of looking like they wanted to leaf but just didn't open up. Still green buds. Started on 10/29/14 __________________ Zone 7A ~ Fort Smith area Arkansas

ChrisK

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Posted 1419110606	Reply with quote #158

Hey Charlie! The Figdome looks awesome ! Thanks for sharing! The Atreano cuttings you sent are crazy! I stuck em in zip locks last week and I m ready to put them in clear cups already! Is it typical to this variety to root this quick? __________________ ChrisK Atl GA Zone 7b-8a

Charlie

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Posted 1419114087	Reply with quote #159

Atreano was the very first to show roots and leaf of the 11/01 group. Glad to hear of yours moving along! __________________ Zone 7A ~ Fort Smith area Arkansas

ChrisK

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Posted 1419118783	Reply with quote #160

Thanks Charlie, I just got it planted in a half 2 lt ginger ale bottle! They seem to like the tinted green plastic when growing roots! Attached Images image.jpg (457.19 KB, 52 views) __________________ ChrisK Atl GA Zone 7b-8a

ChrisK

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Posted 1419119038	Reply with quote #161

Sorry guys, this Atreano cutting has been in a zip lock bag wraped in damp paper towel in a clear bowl on top of the computer tower since last Friday! I check them every night and let some fresh air in! Average temp 78 F when the pc is on! __________________ ChrisK Atl GA Zone 7b-8a

bigfig

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Posted 1419119117	Reply with quote #162

Wow charlie hope you have a big yard , very nice __________________ Wish list :vasilika sika,,JH Adriaticand common french Joe New Jersey 6a

RichinNJ

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Posts: 1,687

Posted 1419122110	Reply with quote #163

Quote: Originally Posted by Charlie Quote: Originally Posted by ChrisK Charlie has near perfect results though as if that room was built for growing cuttings! Maybe your room and everybody else's room is built for growing cuttings and nobody realizes it because they never tried burying them in uncovered pots and monitoring the water closely just to keep moist? Perhaps the mix has a big part of it? I really don't know. The four Red Libya in quarts with pure worm casting are not doing so well compared with the mixes. I think the castings by themselves hold too much water and really considering transplanting them to mix. Hate to lose those four. There are worms living in some of the bowls. Little piles of castings are sure worm sign. Actually saw the worm a couple days ago as it was moving near the surface. There are other things living in the mix also, tiny things I see scurrying about now and then, so it alive and sure to have plenty of beneficial microbes working. It was never packed and lightly watered so it remains loose and aerated. Update on the Atreano which was dropping its leaves. Looks like it finally decided to keep another one. This one even stood up to a water spray. Sitting here I share my view with you. Thinking if I had to do it over with the same probability of success I would have covered the walls and floor with reflective material and only started as many as would fit in gallon pots in the room. Nice work Charlie. St. Dorothy - is the patron saint of fruit tree growers and orchards. Her Feast day is February 6. San Antonio Abad - because of his "grave digging" patronage, he is a good saint for digging tree holes. San Ysidro- Isidore is the patron of farmers and large gardens. He often prayed and went to church while angels plowed the fields of his employer.

Charlie

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Posted 1419124059	Reply with quote #164

ChrisK...Look at those roots!!! :0 Joe...Yes a big yard. Lot's of tree room. Rich...Thanks! __________________ Zone 7A ~ Fort Smith area Arkansas

BrightGreenNurse

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Posted 1419135742	Reply with quote #165

Charlie, these one node trees look awesome! I have some questions regarding wax and tree vigor. What is purpose of waxing cuttings? I was under the impression that it was for mold protection/moisture retention when they are sent through the mail, but I'm getting the impression this may not be entirely true. I'm hoping I can get away with skipping this process! Also, is there any reason to believe that trees started from one node cuttings will be any less vigorous or have smaller/weaker root systems long term in comparison to larger rooted cuttings? Thanks so much for sharing your experience in this thread! __________________ Wish list- St. Rita, LSU Hollier, Brooklyn White, LSU Improved Celeste, Smith, St. Anthony

Charlie

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Posted 1419163070	Reply with quote #166

Jenny I will try my best to answer. Waxing, in theory is as you suspect, to protect from harmful contaminants like molds and pathogens and to help keep them from drying out. In my particular case, the area of each cutting where roots are forming (at or under and/or below the node) are under the mix surface. Theoretically, if I keep the mix moist, the cutting would not dry out. I believe if the mix is healthy, meaning alive with aerobic microbes and the mix is well aerated, pathogens may be held at bay, at least any anaerobic ones. Disease viruses on the other hand, who knows? There is quite a bit of mention of sterilizing shears between cuts or at least varieties. Personally I have not done this between cuts for the reason being I'm dipping the cut ends into 250 F wax. I don't know of any spore or germ that will survive that. I have washed the shears with iso alcohol between varieties though as an added precaution. Ten Celeste single nodes were done on 11/28 without waxing the ends. There are now six of the ten budding/leafing so I don't know if it is actually necessary since these appear to be doing alright so far. Long term is hard to know without some documented results. I don't know if there are any such results. A couple of members did some single nodes some years ago but the threads don't carry into long term. Links to those threads are in post #20. I have both types of cuttings rooting/growing. Multi node do in fact take off quicker. More roots quicker and faster, larger leaf growth. We will just have to keep poking along and carry this on to the end to know. There's just simply not enough of it having been done to develop good methodology and say for certain on any part of it, except for me saying I haven't had a bit of mold on any of these since starting to do it, that I can see, versus nearly every multi node dying I had under humidity covers. I will gladly take five slow growers at the beginning and like to think they will end up grown and healthy, versus one dead one with five nodes when it may be another year before I could get another cutting of that variety. Happy to have you along for the journey. __________________ Zone 7A ~ Fort Smith area Arkansas

Charlie

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Posted 1419164991	Reply with quote #167

These are not single node but I feel worthy of posting as they sit among the rest and receive equal treatment. They extend to the bottom of each cup. The left one, growing now from the only exposed node. The right one with two nodes exposed, bud swelling at the lower node and stem shrinkage above the upper exposed node. These have never been covered and two more identical also with buds swelling. Four Peter's Honey 12/07 with some bud swell and three PP's Unk Peachy 12/13, no change yet, were done in like manner. All appear to be doing fine far as moisture retention below the uppermost node and visible shrinkage above. __________________ Zone 7A ~ Fort Smith area Arkansas

Charlie

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Posted 1419209363	Reply with quote #168

Quote: Originally Posted by Charlie Had to toss this one in for kicks. A multi-node Deanna I had among the slow pokes. It's one of a few multi-nodes that had too close of spacing to cut into singles or so was my thinking at the time. Goes to show they don't always sprout where we may think they ought to. Here's the same Deanna multi node with a couple other surprise shoots. RdB is from the 11/16 group while Deanna and Atreano from the 11/01 group. Sorry to put multi nodes in the topic but I think it's also the method being as much an experiment as the subjects and it would be silly to make another thread. Bury them sticks, water daily or as the surface dries up a bit and wait. No telling where they will pop up. Looks to be a Dominick showing bud swell of the 12/13 group. Nine of ten Glorias unwaxed Celeste 11/28 now showing green buds or leafing. Nine of thirty-five on the slow-poke rack from 11/01 and 11/16 came to life in the past few days. __________________ Zone 7A ~ Fort Smith area Arkansas

Briian1972

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Posted 1419212096	Reply with quote #169

Charlie Wow I just read this whole thread and was very informative thank you for sharing! I will have to try this method myself Thanks Brian __________________ LIVE OAK, FL ZONE 8B figs growing LSU PURPLE, BROWN TURKEY, MAGNOLIA, BLACK MISSION, PETERS HONEY WISH LIST any variety that grow well in zone 8b

Charlie

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Posted 1419212170	Reply with quote #170

I just went back and read through One Node Wonders again. There has been long term success with these and I somehow missed it the first time through or it just didn't stick with me. Wonder if Jon had good results with his trials? Jason (satellitehead) - "I gave away two Marseilles Black (VS) to forum members that were grown from 1-2 node cuttings, and my personal 6' tall 1.5" thick trunked MBVS came from a 2" long 1-node cutting as well." Anybody else have good experience as well and being quiet? __________________ Zone 7A ~ Fort Smith area Arkansas

Charlie

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Posted 1419212488	Reply with quote #171

Quote: Originally Posted by Briian1972 Charlie Wow I just read this whole thread and was very informative thank you for sharing! I will have to try this method myself Thanks Brian You're welcome Brian. Hope they go as well for you. __________________ Zone 7A ~ Fort Smith area Arkansas

rcantor

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Posted 1419214336 · Edited	Reply with quote #172

I've grown a few one node wonders and they've all done well. No different than any other fig in the long run. But I don't have Hordes poised to overwhelm all of Middle Earth like you do, Saruman. __________________ Zone 6, MO Wish list: Galicia Negra, De La Reina - Pons, Genovese Nero - Rafed's, Sbayi, Souadi, Acciano, Any Rimada, Sodus Sicilian, any Bass, Pons or Axier fig, any great tasting fig.

Charlie

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Posted 1419216727	Reply with quote #173

Quote: Originally Posted by rcantor I've grown a few one node wonders and they've all done well. No different than any other fig in the long run. But I don't have Hordes poised to overwhelm all of Middle Earth like you do, Saruman. LOL! Hordes, I like that. The hordes of the entire figdom just received their first drink of aerobic doody water brewed in the garage. One solo cup full to two gallons. Sprayed leaves too. I hope they advance and not retreat. __________________ Zone 7A ~ Fort Smith area Arkansas

BrightGreenNurse

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Posted 1419222480	Reply with quote #174

Your results have me convinced, so I'm going to give this a try! This will be a fun project after Christmas! __________________ Wish list- St. Rita, LSU Hollier, Brooklyn White, LSU Improved Celeste, Smith, St. Anthony

Charlie

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Posted 1419425179	Reply with quote #175

The 11/23 group under .25" of mix cover seem to be doing better starting off than any of the previous with stem exposed at the surface. This Paradiso JM is typical of most of that group. Hoping the 12/13 will prove even better. Only thing with this group, I did some poking around in bowls with no shoots showing. They have sprouted but are growing into the mix and will likely surface along the edge like some of the multi-nodes, if they survive the travel. I guess they didn't get enough light being buried under mix to tell which way was up. __________________ Zone 7A ~ Fort Smith area Arkansas

rcantor

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Posted 1419445753	Reply with quote #176

It means the node was pointed down. Fig shoots have to start off at about a 30 - 45 degree angle to the stem above the node. They can then turn as needed. Plants sense gravity and their shoots will grow upward in total darkness. I would rebury it so that the current direction is up, making the shoot as vertical as possible. The more the shoot has to curve and the longer it gets without light the weaker the it will be. If this is your only node then this is the only shoot you have. You want that shoot to be as strong as possible and start providing the plant with food as soon as possible. For the sake of the roots (Hoping that there are some :- ) bury it so that the tip of the shoot is just at or under the soil and mound the soil up around any roots that are there. Later you can bury it more deeply as the shoot grows. __________________ Zone 6, MO Wish list: Galicia Negra, De La Reina - Pons, Genovese Nero - Rafed's, Sbayi, Souadi, Acciano, Any Rimada, Sodus Sicilian, any Bass, Pons or Axier fig, any great tasting fig.

Charlie

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Posted 1419554665	Reply with quote #177

:) __________________ Zone 7A ~ Fort Smith area Arkansas

Charlie

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Posted 1420077372	Reply with quote #178

Been a few days and I bet some folks are chompin at the bit for an update. It's not all a bed of roses in the figdom lately. Here's one of the good parts. :) Now this next is not so bad either but it sure has me wondering. All the same variety from the same stick, single node. All growing conditions equal as far as I know... I'm noticing this among all varieties. One or two just seem to go crazy while all the others wait for roots. The big one's roots... Just when I think it's time to toss the slow pokes for more room. I go slow poking around with some big forceps tweezers to inspect and see why these cuttings never did a thing. First one I grab is this multi node Petite Negri from the 11/01 group and try to pick it up. Not budging so I poke around and find this... Then I see the other tiny bud swelling where the red circle is. I'll just keep watering and waiting. Never would have thought they would last this long. Now for the bummer, well, it's not nearly as bad as I thought at first. Many of the 11/01 and 11/16 group just suddenly shriveled up and looked to be dead. I nearly panicked and thought the worst, all of them are doomed!!! I was sick. Then this morning I noticed they are not dead, they just don't have many roots yet and there is still green bud under the shriveled leaves. Showing Hollier as example... Hard for one to see in the pic but they are still alive and waiting. Such it is with several. Every one that shriveled still has green bud and inspect showed few if any roots to be found. More bad news but remedies on the way. Gnats went from a few to a few hundred on the sticky tapes and cards. Seems they prefer the fly ribbons over the yellow cards. So I must have many fungus gnat larvae in the bowls. Gnatrol is en route. Couple of days ago I was sitting here looking right at Sal's Corleone and the topmost leaf jumped right off and fell to the floor. It was kind of a shock moment for my fav pretty fig to drop a leaf. I had to get up really close and discovered spider mites up there and crawling on the leaves. I took it out into the garage and gave it a liquid seven spray. Inspection of other plants did not turn up any more but I can't see tiny things so good and figure there are more. A pyrethrum fogger is also en route. Otherwise, Sal's C doesn't seem to be suffering any other ill effects. __________________ Zone 7A ~ Fort Smith area Arkansas

mic

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Posted 1420087919 · Edited	Reply with quote #179

Hello Charlie, I've been following your posts. Great work, very impressive! You've inspired me to try it myself (on a small scale!). Concerning the different vigour of pieces from the same stick, perhaps you should track from which part of the stick each piece came? For example, maybe the pieces from nearer the tip are generally more vigorous and faster to sprout roots? __________________ Mic ~ Australia ~ Equivalent to US Zone 10

jdsfrance

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Posted 1420104320	Reply with quote #180

Hi Charlie, How is your lighting setup ? This time of the year, loosing leaves is normally linked to lack of light and no warmth enough at root level. You could try to give more light to the sals to see if that helps . How is the temp in the room ? Does it swing ? Thanks for the update ! __________________ ------------------------ Climate from -25°C to + 35°C Only cold hardy figtrees can make it here

Charlie

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Posted 1420114703	Reply with quote #181

Mic... thanks. If I ever did it again I would track from where on the stick. It just makes no sense to me at all. Jdsfrance... light is a 1000 w metal halide. Room temps swing from low 70's during dark to low 80's with the light on. The thermometer is on the floor with the bowls. __________________ Zone 7A ~ Fort Smith area Arkansas

Charlie

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Posted 1420298355	Reply with quote #182

These are showing roots of Gloria's Celeste. These were not dipped ends in wax. I have not seen any root formation like this in any of the other varieties which are all ends dipped. This first one has a root going to the cup bottom and back up the side that is shown... Next one had a leaf, dropped it, green bud and some nice roots starting. __________________ Zone 7A ~ Fort Smith area Arkansas

DaveL

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Posted 1420308949	Reply with quote #183

Charlie as a newb, I want to thank you for your post and all your work. Also a thanks for all the members who commented on the process. Can't wait to start using your ideas. I am afraid if I start to early, the plants may become to leggy. Would not dare to move outside at least till mid April. Artificial lighting not an option. One question, will these plants produce figs this year. __________________ Dave Waterford, Ct. Zone 6B

COGardener

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Posted 1420311155	Reply with quote #184

Just think Charlie, in a couple months the hoard will be a couple feet tall. You will have an actual fig forest in your house, your indoor air quality will be amazing!!! I'm going to build a new indoor greenhouse in my garage, bigger, better... you know the deal. I hope to follow closer in your foot steps next year with many multi and single node cuttings..... not hoards of them, I'm not trying to repopulate the earth.... just get all of my friends and family hooked. Here is a pic of Franks Unknown Carini single node cutting with both ends waxed, it was started much later then yours but inspired by you nonetheless. Thank you again for the inspiration, the knowledge and the great thread! keep it up. Scott

Charlie

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Posted 1420325776 · Edited	Reply with quote #185

Dave... I'm not sure any will try to put on figs this year but then again, LSU Tiger and Purple I bought in July were barely twigs and they grew nearly 3 ft and tried to put on figs in just a few months. I guess we have to wait and see! Scott, thanks. Now having done this, I would not go with single nodes any more. Two nodes minimum from now on, if I ever do it again lol. Seems some just do not want to make roots but perhaps they would have if another node had been present. Nice Cirini fig baby. :) __________________ Zone 7A ~ Fort Smith area Arkansas

Charlie

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Posted 1420328274	Reply with quote #186

Just watered with the first application of Gnatrol. In less than an hour this room will be sealed off with a Pyrethrum fogger for the night. __________________ Zone 7A ~ Fort Smith area Arkansas

COGardener

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Posted 1420331200	Reply with quote #187

At least 2 nodes your thinking now, I do actually have some 2 node cuttings floating around as well. Interestingly, my single node Carini cutting are "for now" out performing the multi-node cuttings. I can wait to see what happens, and then compare some notes.

Charlie

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Posted 1420382131	Reply with quote #188

Yes if I had it to do over I would use two nodes. I have several good ones going from single nodes but am losing several also. Most of those ones that have shriveled up have no roots at all even if they do have a green bud. Now those green buds are turning brown, I think they are dead or dying. Looks like I'm going to get that 50% or so after all. Even though I hate to lose any it has been a great learning experience and likely learn a lot more before it's over with. Now either it's my imagination or...the pyrethrum fogger was set off at 6:19 pm after a watering with Gnatrol in the sprayer and room opened to air out at 10:30. Everything looks so "perky" for lack of a better word today. I think they liked it. No sign of tiny webby critters or gnats. __________________ Zone 7A ~ Fort Smith area Arkansas

lexdi

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Posted 1420384867 · Edited	Reply with quote #189

Why you so save on length? the shank the more force in it is longer will be, we use shanks long the 10-15th. Почему вы так экономите на длине? чем длиннее черенок тем больше силы в нём будет, мы используем черенки длинной 10-15см. __________________ тянет в небо? меня тоже.

Charlie

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Posted 1420385807	Reply with quote #190

Quote: Originally Posted by lexdi Why you so save on length? the shank the more force in it is longer will be, we use shanks long the 10-15th. Почему вы так экономите на длине? чем длиннее черенок тем больше силы в нём будет, мы используем черенки длинной 10-15см. It has been an experiment with single node. __________________ Zone 7A ~ Fort Smith area Arkansas

lexdi

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Posted 1420387937	Reply with quote #191

эксперимент удачный, это видно. Но силы в них мало и они будут отставать от 4-5 почек. the experiment is successful, it can be seen. But the forces in them a little and they will keep up with 4-5 buds. __________________ тянет в небо? меня тоже.

Charlie

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Posted 1420461874 · Edited	Reply with quote #192

Bowls are drying out too quick for the growing ones so I'm up potting to gallons. There comes a time for each one you just know it has good roots, even though you can't see them. __________________ Zone 7A ~ Fort Smith area Arkansas

fanatic291

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Posted 1420566402	Reply with quote #193

Keep the info coming Charlie. My 4 cuttings are going under light this week. Your thread has been a real inspiration.

So_Cal_Mike

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Posted 1420567990	Reply with quote #194

Since fungus gnat larva eat roots, is it possible that those cuttings dying off might have had their root eaten by gnat larva? __________________ Sunset Zone: 21 • USDA Zone: 10a __________ Wish List: Lattarula

rcantor

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Posted 1420569484	Reply with quote #195

Quote: Originally Posted by Charlie Yes if I had it to do over I would use two nodes. I have several good ones going from single nodes but am losing several also. Most of those ones that have shriveled up have no roots at all even if they do have a green bud. Now those green buds are turning brown, I think they are dead or dying. Looks like I'm going to get that 50% or so after all. Even though I hate to lose any it has been a great learning experience and likely learn a lot more before it's over with. Now either it's my imagination or...the pyrethrum fogger was set off at 6:19 pm after a watering with Gnatrol in the sprayer and room opened to air out at 10:30. Everything looks so "perky" for lack of a better word today. I think they liked it. No sign of tiny webby critters or gnats. Instead of rejecting your work I'd say you did really well and find out what you need to do to improve it. All of your complaints point to one thing: Excess water. That means your rooting media wasn't formulated with enough air space. I'd take the ones that aren't doing well and put them in 80-90% coarse perlite with all the dust screened out and the rest fresh media that you're already using. Perhaps using clonex or something similar on a small scrape exposing the green cambium on half. You'll learn more and possibly save some. Time is of the essence. __________________ Zone 6, MO Wish list: Galicia Negra, De La Reina - Pons, Genovese Nero - Rafed's, Sbayi, Souadi, Acciano, Any Rimada, Sodus Sicilian, any Bass, Pons or Axier fig, any great tasting fig.

Charlie

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Posted 1420633577	Reply with quote #196

Quote: Originally Posted by So_Cal_Mike Since fungus gnat larva eat roots, is it possible that those cuttings dying off might have had their root eaten by gnat larva? Haven't seen a gnat or otherwise since using the fogger and watering with Gnatrol. Had to be little maggots in there with all the adults trapped on the sticky tapes. Bob, possible some were over watered. Unk Lake Spur 4" pots were bone dry in the bottom of the pots when up-potted to gallons. Bowl plants that were up-potted were pretty dry throughout evenly. I have tried to keep them pretty dry as sticks and watch for good leaf growth to increase watering. __________________ Zone 7A ~ Fort Smith area Arkansas

rcantor

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Posted 1420666213	Reply with quote #197

That's the point. The ones that did well were on the dry side. The others had symptoms of overwatering. Of course, the ones actively growing use more water, leaving less in the soil. When you have hordes it's tough to water each one individually according to its needs. With a more porous mix you'd have to water the growers more often and up pot them sooner. This allows the slower ones to be watered less and maintain their viability. __________________ Zone 6, MO Wish list: Galicia Negra, De La Reina - Pons, Genovese Nero - Rafed's, Sbayi, Souadi, Acciano, Any Rimada, Sodus Sicilian, any Bass, Pons or Axier fig, any great tasting fig.

Rewton

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Posts: 1,946

Posted 1420837198	Reply with quote #198

Charlie, did you use rooting hormone? I generally do use it but with a smaller one node cutting you might imagine that if the hormone leads to a lot of roots then the cutting would have enough resources left for leaves. So one would want to use a moderate amount of hormone, if any. __________________ Steve MD zone 7a

Charlie

Registered:1404043833
Posts: 1,214

Posted 1420847818	Reply with quote #199

No Steve I didn't use any hormone at all. __________________ Zone 7A ~ Fort Smith area Arkansas

Charlie

Registered:1404043833
Posts: 1,214

Posted 1421065827	Reply with quote #200

Per Bob's comment that everything points to over watering, I stopped going by the appearance of the media and watering daily. After just a few days I can tell a difference, some look to be on the rebound and some still look dead. If some leaves on others begin to look wilting then I water a little bit. Here's what they look like after just a few days when they get roots. This one dropped a couple leaves early while there were no roots visible then boom, off to the races! This next one is one that was in pure worm castings. Saved! While I would love for every one to make it, reality is they won't, at least in my care. I'm thinking some just don't want to form roots without another node while some varieties pop out roots anywhere along the wood such as Atreano and Magnolia. __________________ Zone 7A ~ Fort Smith area Arkansas

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