I use ProMix BX with Mycorrhiazae as well. I think the only difference between BX and HP is that HP has more Perlite. Which I add myself to the BX. I have used HP and always added additional perlite then as well. Probably don't need to add the extra but it does work out cheaper as I can buy the 4?6? cubic foot bag of perlite for I think $12 dollars. The extra perlite makes it that much harder to over-water. I only add the extra at the cup stage, mostly after that I use a bulk product of Nature's helper that is mostly half-composted Pine Bark fines locally for me. I think Nature's Helper differs regionally based on local materials. 

I might have to try Buddy Tape keep hearing good things on it. I have several rolls of Parafilm which I am happy with, but I might be going through quite a bit in the next year or too. I am thinking with local forecast for early next week and what I normally average below the published numbers that I might go -0 F. I will be top working a lot of lost trees. Mainly my persimmon. I guess on a positive the established rootstocks do push out a new tree quicker, but sometimes I just question my sanity. We have a a few years above normal lows, guess it was time to 30-50 year lows to hit me.

Mike, what you posted appears to be BuddyTape.  The strips are about perforated at about 2" long but stretch to around 12" long or more.  I have also used Parafilm and Nescofilm (no longer available).  Nescofilm is my favorite but is in a 4" wide roll and must be cut.  Any of them will work.  BuddyTape ends up being fastest but is probably costliest.  Parafilm tears accidentally more than the others.  Commercial nurseries only use BuddyTape as far as I am aware.

One point about applying any of these films that isn't explained on any of the products is that it should be stretched as it is applied while wrapping scions (grafts or cuttings to be rooted).  I've seen people not do this and use excess material and it doesn't stay in place very well.  When I first tried using it about 10 years ago I didn't know how to use it but asked Joe Real about it who explained it to me.

strudeldog, you may very well push 0 come Tuesday morning. forecast is for 10 way down here in west central GA

I just ordered the buddy tape from   http://www.amleo.com/product.aspx?p=BT25

If you are interested in ordering a large number of rolls send me a PM and I will give you a contact and price list from the
supplier. It is much cheaper @ eight rolls or more.

Okay, I happened to be looking for some other photos tonight and came across a photo of the bale of ProMix I used (along with the other similar product I referred to above).

 

Harvey,

A couple questions.....would wax not be faster and easier than the film?  What advantage do you feel the tape offers over wax?  Have you started enough so far to know what your approximate success percentage is or is it too early for that?   

I've never used wax and honestly don't know what's involved for heating equipment or where to buy the right type of wax.  It would probably work well.  I am usually just doing a couple of sticks of each variety and wouldn't want to be dipping different varieties together so it probably wouldn't save me much time but probably would make a big difference if I was doing larger numbers of each variety.  It takes me about 10 seconds to wrap a cutting.

I can't say for sure - some cuttings were of marginal quality, but I think I should get close to 100% but I won't count on that until I am further along.

Please keep us updated with your results as they become clearer, I for one would appreciate it.  

So far, looking very good.  I moved this tray of cuttings out into the sunlight for a better photo and moved it right back in under the grow light on the mat.  This tray was started 35 days ago and many show a modest amount of roots at the bottom hole of the pot (these pots have a large 2" hole on the bottom, making it easy to remove plants), though sometimes it's hard to distinguish roots from fibers in the potting mix.  There is one cutting that only has one bud that is appearing to start to push but the rest look good (see cutting in the middle in the back).

The most challenging part of this (to me) is trying to water each pot the right amount.  Being packed in so closely makes it harder to pick up a pot (to test the weight to see how much moisture is in the soil) and also hard to get the right amount of water into each pot.  I sometimes use a turkey baster which works pretty well but I'm considering manufacturing some sort of tub that I can just keep the tray in and put an inch or so in the tub of water and let it wick up.  Alternatively, I might just take one tray out at a time and dunk it for five minutes in a but of water a couple of inches deep, but that can take some time because I've got quite a few trays of cuttings and plan to start more.  I now have two 2' x 4' grow lights and just ordered 2 more, kinda getting crazy. lol

 

I don't know if it's still a problem but sunshine mix #4 used to have thrips in them about 10 years back it would be a problem.

http://www.pthorticulture.com/en/pro-mix-hp-biofungicideplusmycorrhizae-growing-medium/

This ProMix has got a biofungicide and prevents fungus gnats: has anyone tried it?
How were the results?

http://www.pthorticulture.com/en/growin-media-newsletter/fpxpgx/

I only have fungus gnats from my tropicals when I bring them in for the winter, the pro mix usually doesn't get the gnats until 3-5 weeks after I start it if there was any in the tropicals pots, if no tropicals are there then I never find fungus gnats as long as i don't keep things wet.

I used Sunshine #4 on some plants last year and never noticed thrips.  That seems like an odd problem to have with a potting soil.

I'm getting pretty decent results so far this winter plopping some cuttings straight into Fafard Nursery mix. Just adding some water like Harvey is doing into the Promix. I was actually wondering if anyone knows if Fafard is similar to Promix? My Fafard stuff is light and seems to drain very well but keeps a low amount of moisture that is sufficient for a good period of time. Kind of ideal actually--impressive soil. First time I'm using it.

Sunshine #4 that had problems was in the vancouver area, there were lots of flower greenhouses with western flower thrips around and I think this is where the problem came from of growers not knowing to control the thrips at the time and they were going to more outside and near the plants, it is a great mix.

Fafard is a fantastic mix, I use it for commercial vegetable crops.  They have a lot of science into the different mix of fibres (short, long, medium, coarse fine etc) and blend to have maximum water retention and air content.  I don't know anything about promix other than it's what I use at home since that is what is usually the cheapest when I buy it and I don't use a lot.  Promix may well have the same amount of science in it as well.  BM mix is another great one, virtually the same as pro mix and usually half the price, some folks like it better.

Harvey

Your tray of plants started directly in the Promix is looking really good - lots of nice growth there for sure. I'm sure their roots are equally productive. Thanks for keeping us posted on your results and good luck with the watering. Keep the pix coming.

Harvey,
Thanks for the update and commentary.
The problem with watering in the early stages is why I'm now testing Mini SIPs for growing cuttings in a "regular" potting mix. I will not have as many cuttings growing at one time, but I would like to be able to get them all past this stage. 

Pete, what do you think about sticking one or two wicks in each of these pots and watering them all from the bottom in a try of water?  I might just add an inch of water and drain any that wasn't wicked up after an hour.

Harvey,
It will definitely work. I had set up a simple manual flood and drain system using a perforate and non-perforated 2010 tray. Moving the perforated tray with pots to the non-perforated with standing water, and removing after 10 minutes.

I've tested the wick in almost every small planter I could find. the only thing that you have to figure out is the size of the wick and the actual amount of time that is needed to water the whole container without it getting water logged. With the peat based mix it will be much less that 1 hour.

Okay, so now a way to somehow insert wicks in pots that already have baby trees.  I have some ideas but will have to experiment. :)

Oh, and an ideas on how to make a tray such as 25" x 15.5" if I can't find one?

Cant help you with containers, but two 1/2 inch wide wicks of the Pellon Thermolam Plus material are able to properly and evenly saturate a 10 inch high 4 inch diameter container.

I should be able to get by with something smaller, then, but is there any disadvantage other than cost of having wicks slightly larger than needed?

The only disadvantage is that you will move the water too quickly into the potting mix and water log it quickly. But one of the advantages is that if the "reservoir" is removed, and an air gap is place below the wick, the water will drain out of the mix if it is waterlogged. Also Once the cuttings are past the initial tender stage, they can be bottom waters with less care like a normal SIP.

The other advantage of the wicks is that you can place the water at any depth, keeping the top of the mix dry. Here's a good example, the wicks are 2 inches below the soil surface and the wicked water gets to 1 inch below the surface. BTW the dual 1/2" wick also works for the smaller 32 oz containers.
 

This is a great thread, thanks for starting it, Harvey are you doing anything to manage the humidity for these cuttings?