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needaclone

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Posted Reply with quote  #1 
So, who moves their fig cuttings directly to pots after they've rooted (by whatever means you get them to root)???

Thinking back to last year, some of my best successes came not from cuttings I babied and raised in cups of perlite in humidity bins with heat and light, but from "Hail Mary" cuttings I stuck directly into pots.  Some cuttings I picked up that had been sitting at the side of the road for days, that I then dumped in a bucket of water and left for weeks, that I then just stuck in pots of potting medium did better than cuttings I put a lot more time and care into.  (Of course, there are lots of other variables...)

Since I decided to wait until late spring to start rooting my cuttings this year, I'm wondering if I should just go right to pots after roots appear.  The weather should be getting nice by then, so there would be less need to baby them indoors under grow lights...

What do you think?

Jim
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Clarksburg, NJ - Zone 6b Wishlist - A wise man recommended: Nero600M .  Malta Black . Tacoma (Takoma) Violet . Gino's . Adriatic JH  . Vista Mission . Florea . Atreano .  ...also...RdB, Bethlehem Black, Negronne, Grise de St. Jean, Livano, Col de Dame Blanc/Gris/Noir, Vasilika Sika, Longue D'Aout, Italian 258, Pennsylvania 6-5000
newnandawg

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Posted Reply with quote  #2 
Jim, that is what I do. Root Riot Cubes to one gal pots then outside in dappled sun.
Chapman

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Posted Reply with quote  #3 
I go straight to 1 gallon trade pots.  It works good for me.  The time I used the cups, I lost quite a few good rooted cuttings when I transferred them.
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South Louisiana, Zone 9
bullet08

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Posted Reply with quote  #4 
last few times i tried going straight to 1 gal, my lose was 100%. but it certainly works for others. 
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Pete
Durham, NC
Zone 7b

"don't talk to me about naval tradition. It's nothing but rum, sodomy and the lash." - sir winston churchill
"the problem with socialism is that eventually you run out of other people's money." - the baroness thatcher

***** all my figs have FMV/FMD, in case you're wondering. *****
***** and... i don't sell things. what little i have will be posted here in winter for first come first serve base to be shared. no, i'm not a socialist...*****
Aaron4USA

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Posted Reply with quote  #5 
I do, no mercy!
Jim, as soon as I notice 1/8 inch roots I run to prepare the pot with potting mix and warm water with some Vitamin B1 in it, to the dose...
I don't wait for the roots to get longer and more fragile. Once the roots poke the skin of the cutting you know they are going to grow by the hour. No need to waste any time waiting.
rcantor

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Posted Reply with quote  #6 
I go from perlite to pro-mix HP in gal pots.  I lose very few but each one hurts.
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Zone 6, MO

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Galicia Negra, De La Reina - Pons, Genovese Nero - Rafed's, Sbayi, Souadi, Acciano, Any Rimada, Sodus Sicilian, any Bass, Pons or Axier fig, any great tasting fig.
jdsfrance

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Posted Reply with quote  #7 
Hi,
I started rooting cuttings and 3 suckers late december.
They all went directly in regular nursery compost in a pot .
I grouped them by strain - at least 2 and up to 4 cuttings in a pot.
Not 100% success but not 0% - something like 60% rate of success.
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dkirtexas

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Posted Reply with quote  #8 
I use a "Duplex" potting soil.  I start everything in Sphagnum and when the roots are sufficient I build the 1 gal pot of soil with a spray paint can form in the center and fill the void created by the can with Sphagnum.  100% unless gnat attack, which I think is reduced/eliminated by putting a layer of sand on top.  Watering is reduced due to the moss holding water longer.
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Danny K "EL CAZADOR DE HIGO"
Waskom Tx Zone 7B/8

Wish list: anything anyone wants me to have. LSU RED.  Any LSU fig.
Dieseler

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Posted Reply with quote  #9 
Have done so in past right to 1 g pot.
DallasFigs

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Posted Reply with quote  #10 
This year I starred going to 32oz deli cups,  but using putting soil or spmoss/perlite.  This looked good for a while, but then suddenly about half start getting root rot.  It definitely was not due to over watering. I'm getting a or 50% success rate.  Very frustrating. 

I'm now going back to use perlite/vermiculite blend until they progress more.   I had much better success last year with that. 
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James - Irving, TX - Zone: 8a

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Wish List: 187-25 · Ice Crystal · Maltese Beauty · Maltese Falcon
Sas

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Posted Reply with quote  #11 
Now I stick my cuttings into a one gallon pot using a moisture control potting mix .  I've used composted cow manure last year and it also worked. Starting my cuttings and keeping them in the shade when it's warm has yielded better results than starting them during the winter months. The most important thing for me is to never disturb the roots during the growing season as this in my mind is the number one reason for losing a plant.
The self watering pots gave me the best results so far as I do not have to worry about over watering. Make sure that water is always present at the base by using a timer.
Luck has a lot to do with it also. As an example,out of three cuttings from the same tree treated in a similar fashion, only one could root.
On other occasions the cutting will push out new leaves then dry up. Some cultivars are easier to root than others. Perhaps that's mother nature's way of selecting the strongest to survive.
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Sas from North Austin TX Zone 8B
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Aaron4USA

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Posted Reply with quote  #12 
@Sas, yup, that's what I do and use... This is the one I use and it takes care of them (or it's supposed to) for 6 months.
Planting Mix used for my cuttings..jpg 
needaclone

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Posted Reply with quote  #13 
OK, here's a follow-up question:
  When you go directly to pot, do you tend to use the same potting medium you'd use on any other potted fig tree, or do you use something different for these newly-rooting cuttings?
Jim
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Clarksburg, NJ - Zone 6b Wishlist - A wise man recommended: Nero600M .  Malta Black . Tacoma (Takoma) Violet . Gino's . Adriatic JH  . Vista Mission . Florea . Atreano .  ...also...RdB, Bethlehem Black, Negronne, Grise de St. Jean, Livano, Col de Dame Blanc/Gris/Noir, Vasilika Sika, Longue D'Aout, Italian 258, Pennsylvania 6-5000
newnandawg

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Posted Reply with quote  #14 
I use Fertilome Ultimate Potting Mix right out of the bag for everything.
ForeverFigs

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Posted Reply with quote  #15 
I bypass the intermediate cup stage and go directly into 1gal. pots...my thinking is the less the roots are disturbed the better.
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Vince
Edison N.J.
Zone 6b

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shah8

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Posted Reply with quote  #16 
Maybe the problem is that people let the fig grow far too long in cup stage, and they were dealing with root bound issues before then dealing with transplantation shock.
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Especially desired figs: UCD 187-25, UCD 200-48, UCD 157-17, UCD 309-B1, Princesa, Black Madeira, high quality sugar fig that ripens Sept-Oct.

Probable desired fig: Smith, St Jean, JH Adriatic, CddB, Gulbun, Pastilliere, Sucrette

Rooting:  Smith, CDDB--this pretty much means I have my fun tries (tho' important since they are truly desirable), and only interested for this year: Gulbun, BM, 187-25, or something wildly exotic or precious that nobody has any good reason to send me.
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