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Temperature for graft healing

What temperatures are needed for fig grafts to callus and heal? I did a lot a searching but could not find an answer for fig grafts. One citrus guru says 70-85 F is needed for those grafts to heal and people often think something is wrong with their method when in fact the real reason is grafts won't heal when either too hot or cold.

My current temps in SoCal range from nightime lows of 45 to daytime highs of 75. Fig trees are leafing out and bark is slipping. Will grafts heal well in this range or should I wait for warmer weather?

I think if the tree is putting out leaves the graft will heal properly.

I watched one of Harvey's videos on grafting yesterday and he mentioned 75-85 as a desired range.  Anybody else doing grafting on outside plants this time of year?

I have a ton outdoors. Some are pushing bud but most still stagnant. I will be patient

I do fig grafting on my outdoors trees as I would fruit tree grafting. I've had good success
when I start grafting as soon as the mother tree is coming out of dormancy.
When it's showing signs of life (i.e. leaf/bud growth) I graft 3-bud dormant scions from
the refrigerator. Wrap entire scion in parafilm.
Outside temperature has never been an issue or concern for me.

Conrad,
All outside  grafting not requiring slipping bark - like,  chip budding / W&T / /side / Cleft / Triangle, etc
starts here  by the end of February/early March, preferably  following a New Moon.  (our equivalent zone about 10+) very similar to yours, temperatures ranging from 10 to 20ºC. This means that even before spring starts you may already have nice shoots popping out. Sap pressure is already there by grafting time but not enough to create problems.

For grafts needing easy bark separation ( all T budding/ rind bark / patch / banana / flute / crown  etc.. better wait until April/May and remember to cut a couple of gashes under the grafting point to release sap pressure and avoid flooding your graft

You may graft again from mid August to mid Sept,  dormant buds using chip and T budding..You can check if these buds took but they will shoot only the following season by spring

Francisco
Portugal

The optimal temperature would probably be somewhere between 23 – 29°C, but the graft will also heal as long as it is warm enough for the tree to grow. I keep my grafted figs in a room with a temperature of 15°C and it works fine. The first graft was done 3 weeks ago and yesterday I noticed that the bud has broken through the parafilm.

If grafting early outdoors, there are some little tricks that can help speed up callusing of graft union.  In the northern hemisphere, graft on the south side of tree.  Also, loosely apply some black electrical tape around graft union.  In lower temperatures the grafts will eventually heal but much slower so greater risk of scion dying.  Go read a book instead! :)

Quote:
Go read a book instead! :)


I did read a book and that's what got me wondering, LOL!

Risk of my rare scion dying is the concern, it's just on the tree wrapped in parafilm. If grafts really don't heal and grow unless temps are right then it would have been a better plan for me to wait until climate was suitable. It has been 12 days since I grafted and none show signs of a definite "take". Time will tell.

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