kennyrayandersen
Registered:1449449820 Posts: 26
hoosierbanana
Registered:1287901146 Posts: 2,186
Posted 1459124253
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#2
I think you have a little bit of iron deficiency going on there. Most likely it is caused by the ph of your water or potting media being too high, so do your best to test that and correct them. In the short therm though, you can give the plant what it is missing right away with a foliar fertilizing of something that has chelated iron in it.
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figlegacy
Registered:1412213071 Posts: 96
Posted 1459127540
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#3
I agree with adding fertilizer. My cuttings last year stopped growing for a few weeks, turns out soils was depleted of nutrients. I"ve had others with poor leaf color. I use Espoma Garden Tone. It's organic so I don't worry about salts or harsh chemicals. Once I put that in the soil, about two weeks later the figs started growing and shot up again. As for the leaves that are brown now, they may not make it, but you should see new growth after using fertilizer, and it will be more robust. I haven't messed with PH of the soil as I fear it's too easy to over-correct. Good luck.
fignutty
Registered:1374034473 Posts: 580
Posted 1459130175
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#4
That could possibly be soil that's too wet. Make sure you're not over watering and apply some nitrogen or complete fertilizer.
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kennyrayandersen
Registered:1449449820 Posts: 26
Posted 1459131438
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#5
Thanks guys I really appreciate the input -- this is my first year growing figs so I'm a definite noob! I'm drawing well water, and I may need to add some chlorine? I haven't checked the PH level, but I've read where is can [generally] be too high when drawing from a well. My buddy is supposed to be bringing in some PH papers so I can check it. The soil is fresh and supposed to be for starter plants with slow release nitrogen that lasts 3+ months; so, I don't think it is low on nitrogen, but with a high PH, the iron uptake is inhibited? If so, that might explain it. Also, it might be a little over-watered so I will watch that!
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hoosierbanana
Registered:1287901146 Posts: 2,186
Posted 1459140593
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#6
Yes it is a common problem with blueberries. I had a problem with my cuttings last year using an organic fertilizer made from chicken manure that had a high PH. It started with the newer leaves becoming pale and then the spaces between the veins turning brown like that. This stuff seemed to clear it up for me.
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figpig_66
Registered:1416870358 Posts: 2,678
Posted 1459178597
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#7
Epson salt will make leaves turn dark green and thicker. Help fight against fungus.
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binbin9
Registered:1387923330 Posts: 220
Posted 1459183729
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#8
did you transition it from inside to outside possibly?
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kennyrayandersen
Registered:1449449820 Posts: 26
Posted 1459189104
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#9
Quote:
Originally Posted by binbin9 did you transition it from inside to outside possibly?
Not yet, I was fixing to. I got some ph strips to check the cloning water and I was going to get a ph soil-testing meter from the walmarts to check my dirt. Any problem using baking soda to raise ph or muriatic acid to bring it down?
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kennyrayandersen
Registered:1449449820 Posts: 26
Posted 1459219545
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#10
So, after checking the PH with the strips the PH looks to be pretty close to 8. It's supposed to be pretty close to 6.5? I got some PH up/down coming so I'll try to get that adjusted. I also ordered the Cal Mag + and just to make sure I cut back a little on the watering...
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rcantor
Registered:1309799312 Posts: 5,724
Posted 1459220291
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#11
Figs like 8. So as long as it's 7.8 and not 8.5 your pH is right where it should be.
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kennyrayandersen
Registered:1449449820 Posts: 26
Posted 1459251807
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#12
Quote:
Originally Posted by rcantor Figs like 8. So as long as it's 7.8 and not 8.5 your pH is right where it should be.
Is that the same for a cloner? I thought I read where that was lower?
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Blackfoot
Registered:1437593776 Posts: 112
Posted 1459260405
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#13
It's a good point Kenny Ray. I use solution at 6.0 ph Aqua Canna flow through solution in perlite (Rich's method). Sometimes I get lazy and I don't keep the ph low enough. The leaves start to get pale. As soon as I get the ph down the leaves start to green up within 4 to 5 days. Also, we use Promix HP which is peat based and although I havn't tested it I bet it is somewhat acidic. A fully developed root system and leaf structure i guess they transition to wanting a higher ph. It would be interesting to understand exactly how this transition occurs and exactly when.
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Volker
Registered:1408953877 Posts: 4