I noticed the newer leaves are yellowing and curling back at the edges.  Any idea what's going on with this? Leaf burn? Over-watering? Under-watering? 


 

 

Hi,
The blotching looks like insect damage. What are the tiny longish white seeds looking thing ? Aphids eggs ?
The green of the leave is light ... Is that tree inside the house ?
If so, it is time to put it outside in a shady spot first and then move it to more sun gradually till full sun.
Figtrees need temperature swings ( day/night) and sun to be healthy. At least that is what I do, and would do for such a tree ...

Whitefly?
I notice a white fuzzy substance on the leaf margin, that could be whitefly eggs and nymphs. What does the underside of the leaf look like?

Well this is not looking good at all.  All the terminal buds are looking like they're yellowing and shriveling.

Here is the underside of that leaf.

 

The other terminal buds.

     

Could be leaf hoppers.

I don't see any signs of whitefly in your picture of the leaf underside... the first pictures sure did look like damage from some kind of sucking insect.

It may be time to check the roots, is the soil waterlogged?

Hey. 

I was reading this post and just wondering if anyone else has images coming up like this? Not sure why the images are not coming up for me.

Let's try this again...

           

That's better!

OK - Need some more info.

How old are the trees?

Recent changes in environment? Moved in/outdoors?

re-potted?

Fertilizer applied?

Variety of trees?

Try to think of anomalies. What has changed recently?

I do see those fuzzies on the edges. Maybe spider mites...

How old are the trees?  The one and only affected tree is on its second leaf.

Recent changes in environment?  The weather has been fluctuating from cool to hot to cool and back to hot again.

Moved in/outdoors?  No.  It's been outdoors all along.

re-potted?  Repotted in January to a 5 gallon self watering container in 3-2-1 mix.

Fertilizer applied?  Osmocote Plus at 1 Tablespoon per gallon mixed into the 3-2-1, so it probably got 2 tablespoons total.  Fish emulsion this past week is one change.

Variety of trees?  Black Madeira.

Try to think of anomalies. What has changed recently?  Heat and an application of fish emulsion are two things 

Is it possible that the position of the plant means that the pot it is in gets significantly warmer than those around it? The leading pots to the SW on my balcony, prior to shade cloth, would heat up to 120 F plus, while pots hidden behind others would barely hit ambient temps.

Or perhaps is it in a very shaded area so the soil is kept much cooler, thus reducing drying time which could lead to root rot?

Are there possibly earthworms in just that pot? If the pots are kept near soil that might be possible. Earthworms could be munching on the roots of this one.

If any of these apply I would consider re-positioning all the pots around to see if that does anything.

It is fig bud mites, you need a 40x or so lighted microscope to see them. They should mostly be on undersides of the newest leaves.

Would fig bud mites attack just one tree though? I am curious to learn more about these things. If it is fig mites, I believe I read that silicon supplements can make it very difficult for them to eat the leaves leading to a treatment.

That tree is showing more severe symptoms because it is growing slower, or just that the mite population is higher, sooner, for some reason. While only one tree has problems with its new leaves the chlorotic spots are also a fig bud mite symptom. If say a tree that had mites was brought in to her collection this year and was badly infected with FMV, or not growing, then the same symptoms would not be seen. The chlorotic spots are easy to mistake for mosaic or nutrient deficiency, but they appear random (not from nutrient deficiency) and lack a well defined border (not mosaic), so while an answer was given about the new leaves (most likely will soon begin dropping)  nobody has addressed the signs of lesser infestation that would reveal a connection between plants.
https://books.google.com/books?id=yc4_CwAAQBAJ&pg=PA257&lpg=PA257&dq=fig+bud+mite+symptoms&source=bl&ots=ouAeit7MkU&sig=WBMWDp8gs1YpTGc4izr7snsb3dY&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiUxO3bu57UAhVL6CYKHRzvBBYQ6AEIXTAM#v=onepage&q=fig%20bud%20mite%20symptoms&f=false

Here's a plant with fig mites, oddly it didn't show any chlorotic spots even though others did, they all went back to normal after the mites were gone though. Not all of the symptoms show at once.
 
 

Dear blindesign,

Is it possible for us to see a picture or two of the whole plant so that we get ideas how the overall leaves look like, the potting mix, and also the position of the plant relative to the sun etc?

Sulfur is recommended for commercial orchards to provide control. I used a couple miticides because I needed to completely eradicate them, Forbid 4f is extremely effective and very safe to use.

I'm not saying it's incorrect but if it it were mites I would think it would be affecting other trees if they were in close proximity. 

I don't know what your other trees are but it's my understanding that BM doesn't like the cold much. I think wide temperature variations could certainly do this. 

You say other trees were not affected. Do you have other BM's there? 

I don't say this to rule out mites... I don't have experience with them... Thankfully.

Please get X50 microscope to check it out.
Those fig bud mite look like a tiny white worm, They don't move as fast as spider mite, so it doesn't spread out as fast as spider mite, However, It spread out in my small 100 feet long garden in one season.

Joe, Do not laugh, If you check those fig trees that you received this couple day, all of them have fig bud mites, especial BM, lots of big fat mite there, You really need x50 microscope to see them.

Once They spread out, It is hard to get rid of them for all your potted fig trees.

Adult mites are rather weak but their eggs are very tough to handle inseticide, Forbid 4f may be able to clear them out, but it is not legal in Canada.

Our Canada outdoor cold winter plus cold wind can get rid of them all,  I put my potted fig trees at unheated shed, Temperature down to -7C ( 20F) for month, They do come back recently, I really need to try Forbid 4F.

It is difficult to give advice because Forbid 4f is only registered and labeled for ornamentals, and also non-bearing fruit trees. However, Bayer also had the chemical labeled for food crops under the name Oberon 2 SC, and it looks like Oberon is labeled in Canada Ricky, maybe you can find a commercial grower willing to lend you a tiny bit.

To buy a bottle of Oberon costs over $350, Forbid costs over $200 but there are people selling sample sizes on eBay for about $15 and it is enough for over 10 gallons of spray at the highest rate. Oberon has a pre-harvest interval of only 3 days for berries. There may be a difference between Forbid and Oberon in the concentration being sprayed though, not quite sure how to crunch the numbers on that. 

Azamax is a good miticide as well. Much easier to get and certified organic. Then again it does say if you breathe in a little to call 911... Spoke with an expert who told me it was just a legal requirement though. 

Scientific studies show that with exposure to oxygen and light it is mostly dissipated in 48 hours and completely by 96 hours.