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Why do older figs produce better tasting fruits? Mycorrhizae perhaps?

Now of course he is discussing the taste of older grape vines but I would imagine this is similar in figs.

In theory one should be able to feed the mycorrhizae in the soil and get good tasting figs or grapes sooner.

I use Mycorrhizae in all my plantings. As for its impact on figs, we know that the same variety of fig will taste different in different soils and climates, so I expect that the mycorrhizae impact would be at least as great as it is on grapes, probably more so.

Gene thanks for contributing to this post!  I believe Mycorrhizae may be the most overlooked yet most vital element to successful gardening.  How do you use Mycorrhizae? Do you grow your own or do you buy inoculate products?

Every single plant in my garden had mycorrhizae fungus spread over their roots before planting.  My entire gardens, back garden and front garden, has an almost unbroken carpet of the stuff. I took some sprouting lilies out of a container to put them in the ground and the fungus was everywhere - in the container and in the ground.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MYCORRHIZAL-FUNGI-EMPATHY-ROOTGROW-RHS-APPROVED-60-150-360-GRAM-PACKS-/282451056484?var=&hash=item41c3651764:m:mOJsAC41AD1aLGJRa0VboRA      


I inoculate the roots of all plants when they go in the ground. I use a big shaker of the stuff from Lowes

  • Kelo
  • · Edited

OK, first I object to being called a 'moron', secondly I'm not 'retarded' and strongly object to others being called that, too. I can prove you wrong, too, about your assumption but wont. If you want to get personal with me be ready for what you get because I can strip paint off a door from ten feet with my tongue. Do us all a favour and do it via PM.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gerard1
T then you will STOP SPRAYING POISONS LIKE MORONS and put down a groundcover mulch like woodchips or any other organic material and stop being home depot clueless biologically retarded growers.


Gerard,

You do not know me, nor do you have any manners. I work very hard to keep my garden as organic as possible. Your arrogance is offensive and we have no need of a troll like you on this forum.


You obviously rate yourself way above everyone else on this forum since your IQ is allegedly so much higher than ours - quite how you reached that assumption is beyond me, and probably everyone else. As for your 'explanation'; it really wasn't much of one and certainly wouldn't attract a score of F in any examination.


You know precisely nothing about most of us and yet you obviously feel that we can be placed in one generalized pigeon hole. How wrong you are on that. As for being a 'little man' - well, wrong again.


You apparently have psychological disorders that could benefit the utilisation of one, or more, counsellors. Anger, domination and a blatant superiority complex appears to be triggered too easily; perhaps a sign of sexual abuse or PTSD.


As for not saying anything direct to your face in the street, that is another supposition that you are way off on. At this stage I'm unclear if you are suffering from substance abuse, alcohol abuse or if both are contributors. Ruling those out it may well be that you are simply an asshole. The good news is that the first two are curable, however, the latter will take more time and probably result in minor changes.

This is a bit sad really, what is the need for arguments and confrontation on a fig forum?  I agree that all one has to do is add organic matter such as compost, leaves, wood chips etc to aid the mycorrhizal fungi growth.  I don't use inoculates from the store but I am not against the concept outright.  The purpose of this information is to help other gardeners who may have no clue.    


It would be nice if everyone here felt free to share their experiences and research, that way we can spread the knowledge of organic, natural farming.

Gerard,

We are gardeners, not debaters, on this forum. If you cannot be civil, have the common decency to restrict yourself to lurking. Argumentative, sarcastic comments help no one. 



Don't feed the troll guys, it doesn't help to argue in a forum. 

Has anyone found products with Myco built in, like ProMix to work well?

Tn fig,

You know, if this thread somehow dissapeared....it could be reposted on a new thread....or a post on the other related thread.

Sorry, some folks argue for sport....

Here is one last piece of info you guys don't seem to understand: you dont need to add any powers or myco innoculants because the fungi are already there and will grow if you provide the right moisture level through a ground cover. That is all.

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  • mjc

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gerard1
Here is one last piece of info you guys don't seem to understand: you dont need to add any powers or myco innoculants because the fungi are already there and will grow if you provide the right moisture level through a ground cover. That is all.


While that is a great generalization, it is NOT entirely true.  There are quite a few ways that can reduce or eliminate the natural myco in a given area.  One of the most common is a lack of organic matter in the soil...it doesn't matter how the OM level was brought so low (none added over the years, mixing/laying subsoil on top, whatever).

So adding something to 'jumpstart' things is not a bad idea.  Yeah, you can bake bread by mixing things together and letting it sit around for three or four days, before it starts to rise or you can add yeast and get it done in 3 or 4 hours.

Here in the south most of our yard soil is clay, lots of red clay. That is why I always add goat manure and myco innoculants when I plant. I spent $20 on a tall can of the stuff a few years ago and it is still 1/3 left. With as much fruit bush planting as I have done these past few years, that was cheap added confidence in this red clay soil.

So really it is the older the farmer ( old as in wise) the better the taste of the fruit.I love this forum!

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  • mjc

I have several large piles of wood chips. They are currently full of nice, lovely myco...if anyone wants a 1 gallon ziplock bag full, for postage, PM me. 

Quote:
Originally Posted by mjc


While that is a great generalization, it is NOT entirely true.  There are quite a few ways that can reduce or eliminate the natural myco in a given area.  One of the most common is a lack of organic matter in the soil...it doesn't matter how the OM level was brought so low (none added over the years, mixing/laying subsoil on top, whatever).

So adding something to 'jumpstart' things is not a bad idea.  Yeah, you can bake bread by mixing things together and letting it sit around for three or four days, before it starts to rise or you can add yeast and get it done in 3 or 4 hours.


I grow blueberries, and they will not grow in my native soil, so why would the soil contain or even support ericoid mycorrhizae if no acid loving plants can grow here? Let alone Rhizoscyphus ericae needed for blueberries? Well it wouldn't of course. Also many of us grow figs in containers and of course have to add the fungi. It's not there
So I myself would call it a false generalization, not a great one.

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  • mjc

The generalization is that the fungi are 'there'...they are every where, probably not in enough to actually colonize anything, but they'll probably be there.

I was also going to add a bit about container growing.  It's true that unless you are mixing your own, with a good dose of 'slow compost' or well rotted wood chips, a commercial container/potting mix will have nothing in it.  I just mixed up a batch of potting mix today...1/3 coir, 1/3 screened 'chips' and 1/3 perlite.   Pretty much what I've been using for years for everything I pot up.

Needed to pot up a couple of Chicago Hardy cuttings and had nothing to fill the pots with.

And, as a side note, the stuff I've got is a mix of just about everything, and yes, my blueberries love it. 

Although the mico may help it's only 1 piece of the puzzle. The bacteria in the soil is also very important. If all you needed to get great wine from young vines was mico it would have been common knowledge by now. Truth is you cant speed up the process. Some vine start to get good after 10 years but others take 25.

The bacteria is a piece of the puzzle of course, that is why you feed your soil.  If you have the proper bacteria to fungi ratio which is something like 1:1 your plants will uptake nutrients more efficiently.  

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  • mjc

Quote:
Originally Posted by figherder
Although the mico may help it's only 1 piece of the puzzle. The bacteria in the soil is also very important. If all you needed to get great wine from young vines was mico it would have been common knowledge by now. Truth is you cant speed up the process. Some vine start to get good after 10 years but others take 25.


And maturity of the plant does matter...with/without the beneficial fungus and bacteria.

So do local growing conditions, type of plant/variety and many other factors.

But if it's taking ten years to 'get good' and under 'ideal' conditions, should only take 2-5, then something in your little plot is missing, and a good place to start would be the fungal side of things, as it's probably the easiest one to bolster.  Minerals would be next...and then when those are in balance the bacteria should fall in line.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mjc
And maturity of the plant does matter...with/without the beneficial fungus and bacteria.


I have often wondered about this one. Does the physiology of the plant change over time? It does in other living organisms, like humans. Perhaps some of the changes can only happen in time.

That said, I want to do all I can to encourage healthy growth through that process, and if the fruit tastes better as a result, that is an added bonus.

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