louborges
Registered:1385916755 Posts: 51
Posted 1391873007
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#1
I start a few cutting in December and they have been slow at rooting. Some developed mold on the top of the cutting and some others around a few nodes. I didn't want to use chemicals and I know the UV in sunlight kills mold. So I decided to experiment. I used a magnified glass and concentrated the sunlight on the mold and zapped it. Worked well.
bullet08
Registered:1284496248 Posts: 6,920
Posted 1391873874
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#2
that's why rooting toward spring works so well. you can move them out once the night temp hits 50 and sunlight and fresh air will take care of the molds.
__________________ Pete Durham, NC Zone 7b "don't talk to me about naval tradition. It's nothing but rum, sodomy and the lash." - sir winston churchill "the problem with socialism is that eventually you run out of other people's money." - the baroness thatcher ***** all my figs have FMV/FMD, in case you're wondering. ***** ***** and... i don't sell things. what little i have will be posted here in winter for first come first serve base to be shared. no, i'm not a socialist...*****
louborges
Registered:1385916755 Posts: 51
Posted 1391874341
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#3
I agree, I will wait until Feb-March to start cuttings.
ADelmanto
Registered:1359774201 Posts: 911
Posted 1391878176
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#4
I'm starting mine early March. Too many issues with starting too earl.
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FiggyFrank
Registered:1347560723 Posts: 2,713
Posted 1391878537
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#5
I rooted in January last year and it was fun, but challenging. Fungus gnats, mold, space, lights, etc. I only have a few to root this year, but will be starting in March to keep things as natural as possible, meaning sunlight and outdoor temps.
__________________ Frank zone 7a - VA