There are a number of drain holes in both, but I'm forever defeated having plants by the 'yellow when overwatered, yellow when underwatered' phenomenon.   I have killed plants by overwatering before, though even though the meter said very wet it clearly needed water this time.

Surely the yellow browning, curling leaves and splotchiness is from too much sun, or not enough water?   

>> throw away the moisture meter >>

I may as well throw away the plant too.   Years of experience killing plants has proven my finger or my guesswork is not a reliable indicator and I need help this time.

These pots are very deep and belled on the bottom (see pic) at least 16" so a few inches down isn't going to tell much.    Which is why I bought the 17" probe.

I gave the plant a good soaking today even though the uncalibrated meter reads 10 wetness on a scale of 1-10.   There is drainage and no plate, though its hard to forget I just recently killed a hibiscus tree OUTSIDE by overwatering in the 90 degree heat, it died of root rot.  Trying to be smarter this time.

If it drops all its fruit by tomorrow, then I suppose I'll have an answer.

Well I'm not frustrated, just that the plant is yellowing and dropping leaves and trying to discover and take appropriate action before its too late.   As I said earlier I recently had a Hibiscus tree die after 2 months effort due to a watering issue, in fact it was two, both died.    The new moisture meter I purchased and my post being efforts to help prevent a repeat.

I'm not sure why the forum is showing 3 threads on this same issue, I only opened one.     In fact I only see one thread in the forum when I look now(??) not sure why that would be the case.

The meter read 9 close to the plant and 10 (wettest) at the bottom of the pot, but the plant appears still to be needing water.  Three of the base leaves have yellowed completely and curled/browned as of today, around the lower portion of the trunk.  

I added, so we'll see how it goes.  It seems my own dumb luck I purchased a water meter that seems not to work.

here's an updated picture with the spots

Still not sure which direction to go in.   However what about the possiblity that the tree, having stood in the direct sun this afternoon, got hot roots with the black soil?    The pot itself was pretty warm before I moved it.

If that was the case, some kind of mulch might be advised to keep the heat off the soil.  I happen to have cedar mulch here.

However, if this its overwatering, that I imagine would be the last thing you would want to do.

It might be worth it to compare the picture from my first post in this thread, to the most recent one as there was a watering in between.

Did it improve, get worse, or remain the same?   To me the leaves seem to be pointing up more after watering, even though perhaps the spottiness increased?

Sheesh.

>>>>

You do not plant a young plant in 30 gallon pot.
It is recipe for disaster.

>>>>

Okay, the only reasoning I can find online for not planting a tree in a large pot, is that there is not enough roots to suck up the moisture and allow the pot to dry out in between waterings.

So, in order for this statement above to be true, assuming the plant is 'in disaster', the answer would HAVE to be the plant soil is too moist, and that it is being overwatered.

Secondly..... removing it from the direct sun and putting it in the shade, would I assume slow the drying of the soil further, and make things worse.

This agrees with the moisture meter, so maybe we have an answer.

As far as all Fig trees carrying FMV, it seems to be a popular myth if it isn't true.    There's a chorus of people on garden sites repeating it.  The basic story goes, most figs have it, display it in times of stress, except those grown directly from seed who later become infected through insects anyway.