What makes the "ideal" cutting?

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HarveyC

Registered:1212433117
Posts: 3,294

Posted 1355355369	Reply with quote #1

I've noticed in reading various posts over the past few weeks about different references to things that indicate people have various preferences but sometimes such comments have been vague or unclear. I'd like for some of the seasoned folks to share their thoughts on the type of dormant cuttings they prefer to work with. Please avoid joking about the latest hot variety ("Any cutting of 'Maltese Falcon'!!!). Please cover such things as the following: Tip cuttings Skinny vs. Thick cuttings (how thick?) Spacing of nodes Number of nodes Length (maybe a factor of the preceding two) Cutting taken from growth of the most recent year Cutting that includes prior season growth Cutting made within the past week Cutting washed and/or sanitized before storage Whatever else Thanks! __________________ Harvey - Correia Farms Isleton, CA (Sacramento County) USDA zone 9b, Sunset zone 14 http://www.figaholics.com https://www.facebook.com/Figaholics

DesertDance

Registered:1247674606
Posts: 4,518

Posted 1355360487	Reply with quote #2

Just me, Harvey, but it doesn't seem to matter if it's a tip or a central branch cutting. Some tips rot, and I've found shoots from cuttings taken from the middle of the branch send out stronger shoots, and seem to do better. I truly hate long cuttings because they don't fit in my double cups when they root! I sanitize everything myself, so that's not important. If they are truly dormant, they don't need to be cut within the past week. I've gotten old wood cuttings and fresh wood, and they both root the same. JMHO Suzi __________________ Zone 9b, Southern California. "First year they sleep, Second year they creep, Third year they leap!" Wish List: I wish all of you happy fig collecting! My wishes have been fulfilled!

paully22

Registered:1195324538
Posts: 2,719

Posted 1355367614	Reply with quote #3

Year or 2 year old cuttings are good. Best time to take cuttings for rooting is from mid to late winter. I find they root easier. Learn this from a reputable nursery owner in RI. Makes no difference whether it is tip or branch. Cuttings with 3 to 4 nodes at intervals not more than 2" are excellent. Pencil size thickness is good. NOTE - I have a fig friend that is good in rooting one node cuttings. Sure like to know more about one node rooting. Would be experimenting this season with DK & Osborne Prolific cuttings I have not bother to sanitaze cuttings anymore for the last 2 seasons. Best rooting medium has been spaghnum moss.

pitangadiego

Moderator
Registered:1188871011
Posts: 5,447

Posted 1355367783	Reply with quote #4

One that grows roots, quickly, transplants easily and grows like crazy thereafter. __________________ Encanto Farms Nursery http://encantofarms.com http://figs4fun.com http://webebananas.com "pitangadiego" everywhere

OttawanZ5

Registered:1192897779
Posts: 2,551

Posted 1355370667	Reply with quote #5

I personally prefer last year growth or current year growth with lignified wood, Pencil+ thickness, 8"+ length, minimum 3 nodes (more nodes make me happy) , freshly cut or with good storage history (avoiding freeze & thaw in the fridge or too damp storage media when veges storage drawer is not cool enough). Between the tip cuttings and md-cuttings I have been changing my preferences trying to find out which one will shoot slower to give better chance for rooting. I have successes and failures with both situations. When I receive cuttings, I remove the tiny fig embryos appearing on the cuttings. Also, I leave the shoot embryos on the top few (2 or 3) nodes and remove similar shoots from the bottom nodes. (I would like to know any disadvantage of doing this). If propagating from my own tree, I wait in spring until I just notice sign of bud swelling before I take cuttings. Edit: When a good cutting of a good variety becomes easily available that makes it close to ideal cutting. __________________ Ottawan-Z5a, Canada

HarveyC

Registered:1212433117
Posts: 3,294

Posted 1355376640	Reply with quote #6

Quote: Originally Posted by pitangadiego One that grows roots, quickly, transplants easily and grows like crazy thereafter. Why not go further and ask for one with roots, leaves, and ripe fruit?? ;) __________________ Harvey - Correia Farms Isleton, CA (Sacramento County) USDA zone 9b, Sunset zone 14 http://www.figaholics.com https://www.facebook.com/Figaholics

nkesh099

Registered:1267670012
Posts: 863

Posted 1355377442	Reply with quote #7

Tip cuttings: Doesn't matter much. Skinny vs. Thick cuttings (how thick?): Thick cuttings. Thicker than a Pencil. Spacing of nodes: Close Number of nodes: 1-6. Length (maybe a factor of the preceding two): 1 inch + Cutting taken from growth of the most recent year: Older wood. Cutting that includes prior season growth: Doesn't matter. Cutting made within the past week: Doesn't matter. I've rooted cuttings that were stored in fridge for 10 months. Cutting washed and/or sanitized before storage: Yes. Navid.

garden_whisperer

Registered:1353347580
Posts: 1,613

Posted 1355406988	Reply with quote #8

I have done tip cuttings and mid cuttings. from what i have found like suzi said it seems that mid cuttings send out stronger shoots, and they seem to grow more rapid. i really like them about 1/2 inch to 3/4 inch. the more nodes the better. but score all my cuttings anyway on one side when putting in to root. it seems they really push roots out well at the score point as if it where a node. but this is just me i have better luck with fatter cuttings. __________________ Dave Zone 6b Illinois "Be the change you wish to see in the world"

OctopusInc

Registered:1333335956
Posts: 341

Posted 1355449152	Reply with quote #9

Last week I visited NortheastNewbie's garden where he was kind enough to share some of his knowledge and cuttings. He explained to me that his ideal cuttings have many short tight nodes--from previous year's fall/late summer growth--because they develop a stronger root network since the nodes send out roots. This made good sense to me for what it's worth! __________________ Growing: Pipo, Sicilian Red, Picolla Negretta, Red Lebanese, Ronde de Bordeaux, Galicia Negra, Violette de Bordeaux, Black Madeira, Celeste, Jolly Tiger, Figo Preto, Cole de Dame Blanc, Cole de Dame Gris, Sal's Gene, UCD 185-25, Paradiso, Dark Portugal, White Madeira #1, White Ischia, Chicago Hardy, Want: Sumacki (bass's), anything that produces like a boss in Ohio! I am both Octopuslnc & EclecticBotany on eBay

saxonfig

Registered:1258080612
Posts: 1,370

Posted 1355462033	Reply with quote #10

I agree with Dave. The more nodes the better = more places for a shoot to start. Also a big fat cutting has more chances of survival IMO. It stands to reason that a larger cutting has more energy reserves to spare thus may it be more forgiving of our fumbling attempts to get it to root ;) . By the way. I really like the scoring the cutting idea. I've yet to try it but certainly plan to do so. __________________ Fig Well And Prosper! Bill - SW KY. Zone 6b. 36.5N I'm fruitnut on ebay.

Gina

Registered:1330452963
Posts: 2,260

Posted 1355463340	Reply with quote #11

Tip cuttings - I've had better luck with cuttings without the terminal bud. I like to sink the cutting into the mix so the uppermost healthy bud is right at soil level. Skinny vs. Thick cuttings (how thick?)- pencil thick or larger. Spacing of nodes - closer together, but unless it's from one of my own trees, there is rarely a choice. Number of nodes - the more the merrier, but I have had good success with single nodes, but prefer at least two, with three even better. Length (maybe a factor of the preceding two) - Depends on how fresh and thick it is. About 4 inches is usually good enough, 5-6 inches is probably better - it depends on the length of the original cutting, it's health, age and thickness whether I cut it in half or not. Cutting taken from growth of the most recent year - greenwood can work, but I prefer lignified. Cutting that includes prior season growth- doesn't matter to me Cutting made within the past week - I prefer fresh as possible, but have gotten refrigerated ones to work, but with a lower success rate. Cutting washed and/or sanitized before storage - Others do, but I do that only rarely. Only when there is visible mold when I get a cutting. Sometimes that happens in the mail or with a cutting that has been stored. __________________ WillsC's new fig forum: http://www.Ourfigs.com (and blueberries)

HarveyC

Registered:1212433117
Posts: 3,294

Posted 1355464899	Reply with quote #12

Thanks for all of the contributions thus farm, I find it interesting and helpful. I hope to see more thoughts and maybe also what you've done in cases where you didn't like something about a cutting you were trying to root. One thing that lead me to start this post were some of the things that I had read that I don't remember reading before and then recalling a comment a friend made about eight years ago when I rooted my first cuttings. First, I saw one member who was offering cuttings say "sorry, no more tip cuttings available." I wondered what that was about and thought that those are usually skinny and I've preferred fat cuttings. Sierra might be too fat, possibly, since all cuttings seem close to an inch thick or larger even near the tip. I also read one person post that second year wood was harder to root but produced stronger roots when it did root. I wonder if the bark is thicker and it's just harder for the roots to emerge. Maybe scoring like what Dave has shown would help with that, but I'm just speculating. Eight years ago when I first started with some figs a friend offered me some but said it would be slim pickings since he had already pruned most of his new wood off and that he'd maybe have to give me some wood from the prior year. I'm thinking now that he meant that it was easier to root wood grown the most recent season but I didn't have any troubles with what he gave me. I'm a little surprised that people like cuttings with closely-spaced buds. I think I like that on the lower portion of my cuttings since roots do seem to emerge from nodes first (unless scored). But too many buds near the top (even if slightly below soil) might lead to too many shoots on a cutting with a small developing root system. Maybe removal of some shoots could be done to combat any problem this would cause. __________________ Harvey - Correia Farms Isleton, CA (Sacramento County) USDA zone 9b, Sunset zone 14 http://www.figaholics.com https://www.facebook.com/Figaholics

gorgi

Registered:1188888396
Posts: 2,864

Posted 1355507804	Reply with quote #13

The contents of this post has been removed by the author on 12/15/12. __________________ George, NJ_z7a.

rcantor

Registered:1309799312
Posts: 5,727

Posted 1355508992	Reply with quote #14

George, I think he wanted to avoid responses like 'The best cutting is <insert super rare, desirable variety here>' because that's not the type of answer he's looking for. He doesn't want to know what variety of cutting makes it desirable but what physical characteristics make a cutting of any variety easier to root. As for me Tip cuttings Don't care but the tip may die and that's ok. Skinny vs. Thick cuttings (how thick?) Any 1/4" or bigger Spacing of nodes The tighter the better Number of nodes The more the better Length (maybe a factor of the preceding two) Anything over 5" Cutting taken from growth of the most recent year first or second year. The second year cuttings take longer to root but they're not harder to root. When they root they rapidly produce a big tree. I've had 3rd year cuttings root easily but never produce shoots. Cutting that includes prior season growth Either way Cutting made within the past week better than a long time ago Cutting washed and/or sanitized before storage not usually imprtant as long as it's stored without too much moisture I think there's a pattern emerging here :) __________________ Zone 6, MO Wish list: Galicia Negra, De La Reina - Pons, Genovese Nero - Rafed's, Sbayi, Souadi, Acciano, Any Rimada, Sodus Sicilian, any Bass, Pons or Axier fig, any great tasting fig.

HarveyC

Registered:1212433117
Posts: 3,294

Posted 1355509365	Reply with quote #15

George, yes, Bob has it exactly right. I wanted to try to gather information on what types of cuttings people have found to work best, etc. On the other hand, I'd love to have a cutting of Maltese Beauty. I'd like it to be 3' long with 20 nodes, ranging in thickness of anywhere between 3/4" and 1/4"....I'm not picky! Let me know if you need my address. Okay, I'd take something much shorter if necessary! __________________ Harvey - Correia Farms Isleton, CA (Sacramento County) USDA zone 9b, Sunset zone 14 http://www.figaholics.com https://www.facebook.com/Figaholics

Gina

Registered:1330452963
Posts: 2,260

Posted 1355513544	Reply with quote #16

Quote: But too many buds near the top (even if slightly below soil) might lead to too many shoots on a cutting with a small developing root system. In my experience that's not proven to be a problem. There is probably internal regulation for survival built in. The majority of my cuttings only have one bud that produces a stem, sometimes two. Three is uncommon. I rarely remove anything that is green and healthy. __________________ WillsC's new fig forum: http://www.Ourfigs.com (and blueberries)

gorgi

Registered:1188888396
Posts: 2,864

Posted 1355516452	Reply with quote #17

Thank you both R&H for the good accepted response... __________________ George, NJ_z7a.

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