mwawrzyniec
1450567380
Posted 1450624598
Reply with quote #1
I have a 4' Celeste in a 5 gallon nursery pot. I live in western NY, so my fig comes inside in the winter. This year the roots grew out of the bottom of the container. What size containers does everyone suggest?
pino
1383190021
Posted 1450626170
Reply with quote #2
The bigger the better. I have my large figs that are not in ground in 22 and 15gal.
Pino, zone 6, Niagara, JCJ Acres
rcantor
1309799312
Posted 1450667021
Reply with quote #3
Most of my figs are in 7 gal pots but the better ones get bigger containers. I let my figs root into the ground every year then cut or pull up those roots when I bring my figs in for the winter.
PeterC
1442348302
Posted 1450668239
Reply with quote #4
rcantor, do you have any videos of you doing this? or photos? I would love to see this being done. How tall are they?
mwawrzyniec
1450567380
Posted 1450668391
Reply with quote #5
Quote:
Originally Posted by pino
pino
1383190021
Posted 1450672117
Reply with quote #6
Sorry have never weighed them. They are easy enough to move around with a dolly. You need 2 people to lift unto a truck.
Pino, zone 6, Niagara, JCJ Acres
drew51
1431808677
Posted 1450676130
Reply with quote #7
I like using fabric bags. They root prune the plants. This allows for more roots. It is said it makes say a 10 gallon fabric bag comparable to a 20 gallon pot. The roots when they hit the side get air and stop growing. They will never swirl. One could still root prune them occasionally. Mine are so new I have not yet done that. I'm fairly new to figs. Having fun with them. they seem fairly easy to grow.http://www.greenhousemegastore.com/product/root-pouch-boxer-brown-fabric-pot-longest-lifespan/growing-pouches-and-bags
nycfig
1380768118
Posted 1450693826
Reply with quote #8
I use 20 and 25 gallon nursery pots for my older trees and 5 gallon nursery pots for everything else. At the end of the season, all of the pots are moved into a shed. I've built special stands to keep the large pots off of the ground. Makes it easier to 'weed-wack' around them and jog them around to maintain drip lines, do air-layers, prune and such. Fig trees in any pots that do not have a stand grow roots into the ground every season. I just pull them up before storing them and they're fine. Everything gets root pruned every 2 or 3 years, sometimes less. Move the larger pots around with a 'potlifter'. Worth it's weight in gold. Easier with 2 people but I use it by myself, too.
Facebook: NYCfigs Buying Fig Trees and Cuttings From the Internet
Mario_1
1398299123
Posted 1450702883
Reply with quote #9
There are many reasons that determine the size of your pot, the plant itself can and should adjust to your need. The ideal would be in ground on a beautiful farm in Puglia Italy, ideal but not possible. Fifty years ago I use to cut 50 gallon wine barrels in half, not heavy, easy to moove( for a21 year old) and lot of them around for free. As I got older the pots got smaller, the figs trees don't seem to mind. I now keep my trees in 7 gl pots with lightweight soil, the good thing is I have more time,more varietals and more pots( good thing they are small). Last year I repotted a 25 gl down to10 gallon for my daughter ( originally from Italy), my grandkids harvested about 70 figs from it.
rcantor
1309799312
Posted 1450741373
· Edited
Reply with quote #10
I certainly don't have any video, lol. It's not hard to imagine. I casually try to lift the pot with one hand. If it won't come up I find where the roots are and either pull up or tilt the pot away from the root(s). They either come up, break or are stronger than I am. Most either come up or break. If the roots come up I put the pot away with the roots hanging out so they can grow again next season. If I can't get the pot up I slice the biggest root with a box knife and try again. A few are woody but I haven't found any yet that the box knife couldn't handle. If I can't lift it then it's lather, rinse, repeat. I cut the next biggest root, try again and so on. Since there are a maximum of 5 holes and there is only 1 root per hole it can't take forever. If I haven't answered your question then let me know.http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200586484_200586484
elin
1360863025
Posted 1450744780
Reply with quote #11
I preffer to stick to below 10 gallons. More than that and ill need two drippers for each tree.
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BronxFigs
1333154764
Posted 1450744951
Reply with quote #12
Size does matter, and the bigger the better. Try for a minimum of 15 gallons. You can also convert an 18-gallon, storage tub (sold at Home Depot) into a decent, fig tree container. Just drill/melt drainage holes around the bottom sides of the container - so that if roots grow out of these drainage holes, the roots can be spade trimmed when storage time rolls around. If you put drainage holes in the bottom of the containers, you will not be able to spade-trim roots if the roots should grow into the soil. Mulch heavily to prevent the growing medium from overheating if trees are grown in full sun exposures....which is best for the tree. Avoid shade.HERNIA WARNING !
baust55
1240892043
Posted 1450840378
Reply with quote #13
As an old fart I decided most of my few trees were going up to sip type wal-mart pots when I repot this spring .
http://figs4funforum.websitetoolbox.com/post/kitty-litter-really-kitty-litter-7398708?pid=1287129765#post1287129765
REGGIE
1395667207
Posted 1450893685
Reply with quote #14
I have been using fabric pots as well. I like 'em. Easier to move with the handles. Great drainage. Into third season without them coming apart. Doing 1 quart --> 1 gallon --> 7 gallon --> 20 gallon graduations for the faster growing fig cuttings currently; 1 to 5 to 10 to 20 gallon for the slower ones. So far, so good.
