At the Fig Tree Ranch in Malibu, however, fig fanatics are welcome to visit. A quarter-mile from the ocean, the Cunningham family grows 150 trees bearing 23 varieties of figs, most of which can usually be tasted only in private collections. There's Celeste, the classic fig of the Southeast, and the ranch's own Coconut Chiquita, with a coconut aftertaste that's "so good it should be illegal," says Vikkie Vicars, the farm hostess.