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Encanto Farms Nursery > Topics > novel indicator of successful cutting
 
 


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ascpete

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Posted Reply with quote  #1 
After waxing the top cut ends of cuttings prior to rooting, I have observed that successful, actively growing cuttings have a lime green ring at the top cut end just above the cambium layer. from my observations this indicator is visible on all cuttings that have developed roots and probably an active vascular system. All the cuttings that develop this Lime green indicator have been successful, the cuttings that have not developed this indicator usually die or are dead.
To those of you who seal their cuttings, Has anyone observed anything similar?

Picture is of the top of the cutting (1 1/4 inch caliper). The ring is visible as a pale yellow ring in the picture. The cutting is 34 days old with an extensive root mass. they were started in Long Fibered Sphagnum moss, then cupped to 32 oz containers for 2 weeks. They were just put into 1 gallon containers today.
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greenfig

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Posted Reply with quote  #2 
Pete, what did you use as a wax?
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ascpete

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Posted Reply with quote  #3 
Melted Tea candle, which is a paraffin wax, and available almost everywhere (I purchased it at Walmart)
greenfig

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Posted Reply with quote  #4 
Cool, I should try some too. What about the terminal cuttings, any observations there?
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bullet08

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Posted Reply with quote  #5 
i usually go by if the new branches will dry up and die on me or not. typical spring rooting is close to 100%. well.. as long as i don't mess up like this yr with lime and stuff. 
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ascpete

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Posted Reply with quote  #6 
greenfig, ... There are better indicators for rooting progress like using clear containers to see the roots. This was just an observation... Waxing the top end actually stops the cutting from drying out prematurely and protects it from fungal attack. As long as the terminal end bud is fully closed, the wax keeps them from dessication also. If they have opened they may rot when placed in the sphagnum moss to root (if you use the baggie pre-root method)

Pete, ... I find that the wax usually stops the the top most branches from drying out before the vascular system is established in the cutting, giving the cutting an additional boost in growth and time for the vascular connections to form. I was sorry to read of your mishap with the lime, chalk it up to a learning experience.
TahomaGuy2

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Posted Reply with quote  #7 
Can I apply pruning sealant instead of grafting wax?
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ascpete

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Posted Reply with quote  #8 
Charles, ... Anything that seals the end and is water resistant should work... It should also be non toxic.
cis4elk

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Posted Reply with quote  #9 
I noticed the green ring as well. I took it more as a great sign though, and didn't connect any failures to the lack of the ring. Although that could have been the case and I just didn't notice.
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ascpete

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Posted Reply with quote  #10 
Calvin,
Thanks.. I think it is a great sign also. I believe it indicates an active and functional vascular system (sap flow to and from roots).
noss

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Posted Reply with quote  #11 
Hello Pete S,

Do you melt and then dip the top of the cutting into the melted wax?  Do you put the wax on the bottom end, as well?  Has anyone done so?

Thanks for sharing this observation with us,

noss
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ascpete

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Posted Reply with quote  #12 
Hello Noss,
You're welcome. I dip the cuttings in the wax. If they are being stored you can dip both ends. The wax sealing was posted on the forum and is used by other members for storing cuttings long term. Waxing works to help keep in moisture and to keep the cuttings from drying out in storage.

Here is a Topic which started me sealing cuttings with wax.

Here is a post with my procedure for sealing the end with Unscented Tea candle wax. Its from another topic on sealing cuttings.
greenfig

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Posted Reply with quote  #13 
Guys, will the elmer's white glue work the same way?
You dont need to melt it and it seems to seal alike.
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javajunkie

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Posted Reply with quote  #14 
Elmers glue is water soluable and will not do well in a damp environment. Wood glue will work but it has to dry completely.
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noss

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Posted Reply with quote  #15 
Thanks, Pete, for the links.

When we made jam, we would use Gulf Wax, which was parafin.  Do you know if that's the same wax as parafin?  I found some tea candles that I used to use to heat a little potpourri pot, so I'm set for wax, plus I have some Gulf Wax I was going to use to seal fig jam until I read they no longer recommend doing that and tell you to do a waterbath canning for jams and jellies.

Greenfig,

I've used Elmer's wood glue.  Tami, is it waterproof once it's dry?  I've had bad luck with the glue getting tacky if damp and mold getting under it.  Did I not let it dry long enough, or did the latex sap keep it too wet, do you think?

Thanks,

noss
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elin

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Posted Reply with quote  #16 
Ascepte you are a hard core rooting machine...
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javajunkie

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Posted Reply with quote  #17 
Good Morning Noss,
I've never tried Elmers wood glue, I use Gorilla Wood Glue and after it dries completely I've never had problems with it. I use it on the outside plants when pruning however I've not used it on figs so perhaps you have something with the latex causing a problem.
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Tami
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ascpete

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Posted Reply with quote  #18 
Noss, ... I have never tried Gulf or canning wax, I have tried to find some but didn't. I have always (since last year) used Elmers School Glue on cuttings once they are cupped and in a dry environment, because the wax falls off once the cutting starts to grow. Outdoors you can use any type of pruning sealer or any Asphalt based sealer (Asphalt driveway sealer) or Latex based paint. Note sealing the cut ends is not usually recommended, but I do it anyway.

Eli, ... Thanks. I have been trying to perfect my rooting technique in anticipation of the fig cuttings that I will be collecting this spring and summer from all the "Unknown" figs in the Bronx NY.

Tami, ... I have never thought to try Gorilla Glue on plants. It would get a little expensive for me compared to the other solutions. But maybe for repairing broken branches... : ) Thanks.
javajunkie

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Posted Reply with quote  #19 
Haha Pete, it's Gorilla wood glue, not quite as expensive as their original.
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Tami
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ForeverFigs

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Posted Reply with quote  #20 
Pete...I wrap some of my longer cuttings with ParaFilm to prevent drying out...it is thin and clear when applied and the ring that you refer to is clearly visible through the film...the shorter cuttings I top off with old fashioned asphalt tree sealer so the top of the cutting is blacked out.
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Vince
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ascpete

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Posted Reply with quote  #21 
Vince,
Thanks for posting.
Of the cuttings that have the observed ring, have you noticed how many fail?
ForeverFigs

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Posted Reply with quote  #22 
Pete...I have had only 2 or 3 losses out of all the cuttings on which I have spotted the "ring"...but these losses were due to my over watering the rooted cutting, or some other mistake on my part, such as over fertilizing...the rest of them have made it all the way to the 1gal. pots and beyond.
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Vince
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ascpete

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Posted Reply with quote  #23 
Vince,
Thanks, I have actually killed most of my experiments by over watering and a potting media that held too much moisture. Since I started sifting the perlite and stopped using peat, the growth and survival has increase two fold.
bigsmile542

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Posted Reply with quote  #24 
I found this ring on some of my cuttings I potted up today. Is the the same ring as you found just a      different color?

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ascpete

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Posted Reply with quote  #25 
Bigsmile542,
The green ring would be at the top of the cutting and would be visible if the end was sealed with a translucent material. I have tried toilet bowl seal wax on a few cuttings and the ring is visible.
That is callus at the bottom of the cutting. Callus is exactly what you need, roots form from it. and it seals the end of the cutting stopping rot. In the picture it looks as if you have broken a nice healthy root at its base, but with all that callused area it should send out lots more.
americanfiglover

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Posted Reply with quote  #26 
Soooo I'm guessing that I could use any unscented candle wax? That should work the same right?  
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ascpete

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Posted Reply with quote  #27 
americanfigboy,
If it has a melting point below 140 deg F., hotter and it will damage the plant tissue.
bigsmile542

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Posted Reply with quote  #28 
Thanks for the Info Pete. Yes it is hard getting the out of the sand without breaking a few roots. So far doesn't look like a problem as the cutting has many more. I think it will just put out more as time goes on. 

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ascpete

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Posted Reply with quote  #29 
Update 7/15/13
Current picture of one of the cuttings in the Opening Post (OP), its the one on the left in the second picture. The other cutting is no longer in my possession, and may have died in shipping in the heatwave a few weeks ago. Its 30 inches tall from the soil line and already has bumps swelling at the leaf nodes, possibly fig embryos.

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newnandawg

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Posted Reply with quote  #30 
Pete, what do you think about using Swingline Glue Sticks in an electric gluegun?
ascpete

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Posted Reply with quote  #31 
Mike,
Haven't tried it, but if the temperature is below 140 Deg F, its non toxic and sticks to the cutting, give it a try. Anything that seals the end of the cutting seems to help with growth, the transparent material just allows you to see the cambium growing (green ring).
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