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Encanto Farms Nursery > Topics > Cuttings: Tips vs. Sections ?
 
 


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recomer20

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Posted Reply with quote  #1 
I see a lot of people prefer tips, which I assume that is because the terminal growth creates a tidier looking plant. However, of four recent cuttings I rooted, sections (cuts on both ends) leafed out quickly, but the terminal buds on the tips have not leafed yet. Root growth on both sections and tips seem about the same, but until the plants leaf out, there's that worry that they might just root, then mold and die.  

Thoughts? Also, does anyone clip or pinch terminal buds [EDIT: on cuttings] to force side leafing (sounds like sacrilege, but the idea has crossed my mind)?

Thanks
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Rick C. Birmingham, AL z7b --- *INGROUND: S.C.Lemon ("Dr.Welch"), LSUpurple, Celeste (Std) *POTTED 3rd Yr: Alma, Atreano, BattGreen, GrnGreek, HardyChicago, ItalianBlack (Becnel), LSUGold?, MBvs, Sal's EL, Southern BT?, St.Jean, Jackie'sUnk *POTTED 2nd Yr: SunbirdUnkJP, BourjNoire, JHAdriatic, ValleNegra *ROOTING: RdB, ScottsBlk, BlkGreek-MN,Preto
WillsC

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Posted Reply with quote  #2 
Rick,

For one I don't like tip cuttings and I sometimes just snip the tip off..does not seem like they push growth as fast as side buds.


Far as tidier look I don't think it really matters.  Give it some time and that plant that started with a side bud will look just like one where the apical bud was left in place.  The side bud will actually move to the top and become a straight trunk.....I know it sounds odd but that is what happens.  I have pictures of the process in an orange tree I grafted if you want to see them.
sammy

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Posted Reply with quote  #3 
I just cut a tip on one of mine that had roots but was not leafing out and a few days later it now has a new bud that is forming right below the cut tip.
I would say it works well to cut the tip.
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bullet08

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Posted Reply with quote  #4 

terminal bud cuttings seems to response slower.. and has more failure in my experience. not sure why.. i think someone explained it once, but i forgot. but if they grow well, they do make better looking tree.
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Posted Reply with quote  #5 
Rick C,
Terminal buds produce Auxins (plant hormones) that retard growth (branching and new buds) below the growing tip. By removing the tip, you remove the plant growth inhibitors, allowing the growth of dormant buds, one of which will become the dominant terminal bud. I prefer to remove the terminal buds and sealing the cut end with wax, I always get much better (faster) growth without them.
recomer20

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Posted Reply with quote  #6 
Thanks for feedback and the science. I'm glad there is support for my feelings about tips--going to snip back and see what happens. 
Thanks again.
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Rick C. Birmingham, AL z7b --- *INGROUND: S.C.Lemon ("Dr.Welch"), LSUpurple, Celeste (Std) *POTTED 3rd Yr: Alma, Atreano, BattGreen, GrnGreek, HardyChicago, ItalianBlack (Becnel), LSUGold?, MBvs, Sal's EL, Southern BT?, St.Jean, Jackie'sUnk *POTTED 2nd Yr: SunbirdUnkJP, BourjNoire, JHAdriatic, ValleNegra *ROOTING: RdB, ScottsBlk, BlkGreek-MN,Preto
cis4elk

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Posted Reply with quote  #7 
I agree with those above. Unless it is a thick cutting with a thick terminal tip, I snip'em and wax'em.

In reference to your want list if you want to skip the cutting stage and get some ripe fruit next year. I am very happy with mine which I bought here last fall, it was packaged and shipped well. It had rust so I removed the leaves and it did have many fungus gnats hitching a ride though, FYI.


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recomer20

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Posted Reply with quote  #8 
Thanks for the info, Calvin. An adolescent plant is looking good right now. I've got all the figbabies I can handle at the moment. In newbie fashion, I planned on growing "a couple" and wound up with 20+ plants in cups (I have at least 8 extra LSUPurples in cups that I'll be needing to foster out come spring).
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Rick C. Birmingham, AL z7b --- *INGROUND: S.C.Lemon ("Dr.Welch"), LSUpurple, Celeste (Std) *POTTED 3rd Yr: Alma, Atreano, BattGreen, GrnGreek, HardyChicago, ItalianBlack (Becnel), LSUGold?, MBvs, Sal's EL, Southern BT?, St.Jean, Jackie'sUnk *POTTED 2nd Yr: SunbirdUnkJP, BourjNoire, JHAdriatic, ValleNegra *ROOTING: RdB, ScottsBlk, BlkGreek-MN,Preto
DallasFigs

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Posted Reply with quote  #9 
This is very interesting and intuitive, thanks!

I recently had a new cutting with a terminal bud and the bud turned brown and soft.  Thought it had died.  I squeezed the bud and it came off and underneath it was a new bud that was bright green.  It's growing, but slow.  I think I'll clip one off of a different one that doesn't seem like it's growing and see what happens.
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Dieseler

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Posted Reply with quote  #10 
Fig scion can be different rooting wise from same tree cut from different area's of fig plant.

When i used to root i favored bud tip simply because it was easier to shape when time came if that particular piece of wood rooted and had apical dominance .

Either way the strong will survive weather its bud tipped or not as stated there all different.
garden_whisperer

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Posted Reply with quote  #11 
I will use tip cuttings but prefer sections without terminal buds. The main reason beings it seems you get multi branched trees. With bud cuttings it seems you have to snip the bud to promote branching.
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Chapman

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Posted Reply with quote  #12 
It seems to me if the terminal bud is slower to bud out it would give the roots more time to get established and support the top growth.  I have had good success with terminal cuttings.
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Tonycm

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Posted Reply with quote  #13 
I always preferred tip cuttings just because of the way they looked, if not for any other reason. They have always done well but I never noticed if they were slower than mid branch cuttings to sprout roots or leaves. Looks like a winter experiment in the making. Hmmm
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rafaelissimmo

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Posted Reply with quote  #14 
I am running an expiriment right now with 3 cuttings in a row including tips and 2 "deeper" 6-inch cuttings. No one seems to have mentioned that it is often recommended to use 2-year old wood for cuttings to be more successful at rooting, which implies going far deeper than the apical bud. I will report on my test as the process unfolds, right now all three cuttings have callus bumps but no roots yet but early winter cuttings take longer to root I understand. Nevertheless, members usually ask me for tips when requesting cuttings, so obviously they are more popular.
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Herman2

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Posted Reply with quote  #15 
Older wood roots better for me, according to my results, so yes green top tips are most likely to die ,in the process of rooting
recomer20

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Posted Reply with quote  #16 
UPDATE: After the apical bud stayed closed for nearly 2 months after rooting, I clipped and waxed. After about 8 days since clipping, the side buds have begun to swell from their brown casings and open. Very happy to see it moving forward again. Thanks again for your suggestions and thoughts.  (FTR this was from that "Unknown White Greek variety hardy to zone 5" deal that seems to be constantly on eBay. It came as 15-in terminal cuttings that I chopped in half upon arrival.)


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Rick C. Birmingham, AL z7b --- *INGROUND: S.C.Lemon ("Dr.Welch"), LSUpurple, Celeste (Std) *POTTED 3rd Yr: Alma, Atreano, BattGreen, GrnGreek, HardyChicago, ItalianBlack (Becnel), LSUGold?, MBvs, Sal's EL, Southern BT?, St.Jean, Jackie'sUnk *POTTED 2nd Yr: SunbirdUnkJP, BourjNoire, JHAdriatic, ValleNegra *ROOTING: RdB, ScottsBlk, BlkGreek-MN,Preto
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