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timmy2green

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Posted Reply with quote  #1 
Ok I have a number of fig trees that are growing older now.  The few starters I had were easy to pot up because I would get larger pots from my mother-in-law or drill holes in rope handle totes.  But now, I have a quite a few that should be up potted to continue growing healthy and I'm trying to figure out the best way to get pots that will last (totes harden and break after a couple years), be moveable because I need to move them in the garage each winter, and optimize my growing efficiency because I can't spend 100% of my time maintaining figs with a young family.  So in simple outline form, here's what I need to accomplish:
1. What is a good size pot that I can maintain the figs indefinitely as larger specimens with occassional root pruning (every 2-3 years)... while accounting for back problems moving heavy weight, limited space to store in garage, limited space in yard, etc.
I don't mind sacrificing a little vigor if need be, but I want to get past the 1-2 figs per tree size.

2.  Should they have holes in the bottom?  Or do I attempt these SIPs that I keep reading about, but know nothing about?  Or a drip system that I also know nothing about? 
Here I need to consider my limited time to maintain them, possible solutions for watering (sprinkler on timer was a disaster for leaf rust), the possibility that I may go on vacation for a week or two at a time on occassion, what method is best for the trees (kept outdoors in warmer months) and a limited budget.

I'm looking for a co-optimized solution here and open to any and all suggestions on what would be an efficient method to this madness!  :)

Timothy
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FiggyFrank

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Posted Reply with quote  #2 
This year, I am going to try using the SIP method with 5 gallon pickle buckets I got free from a restaurant.  I think drivewayfarmer uses these and I 'thought' I read that he doesn't have to root prune for about 3 years.  Not for certain.  Either way, they're the cheapest way to get pots and will buy you some time until you're ready to graduate to larger pots.
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Frank
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Rewton

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Posted Reply with quote  #3 
Frank, good point.  I started using these 5 gallon SIPs last year and will transition to these for all intermediate container figs next year.  For me, the last remaining question is the potting mix.  I've had excellent results with a sand-coir based mix but the problem is that it is heavy.  It's actually ok for 5 gallons but once you get to 15 gallons or above it would be a killer.  So I will probably experiment with other mixes this year.  By the way, one could set these up for automatic watering if you really wanted it to be efficient.  I rather like going through and watering my figs every couple days so that I can give them a good looking over.
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Steve MD zone 7a
Rewton

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Posted Reply with quote  #4 
Funny, when I read the title of your post I had just finished reading something else on the internet (link below).  As a result my first thought was that you were referring to something totally different :)

http://www.garygreenbergonline.com/w/?p=449
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Steve MD zone 7a
ascpete

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Posted Reply with quote  #5 
Timothy,
The 5 gallon SIPs have been proven to work for Fig Culture by a few forum members using the 2 bucket SIPs. A simple automated watering system can be fabricated by connecting all the reservoirs with 1/2 inch sprinkler pipe and manually (or with a Hose End Timer) filling once or twice a day, any excess water would just flow out the over flow holes. Good Luck
drivewayfarmer

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Posted Reply with quote  #6 
Timothy,
If you have the sunny garden space available then a 5 to 7 gallon pot with holes in the sides , planted in the garden for the season (as soon as you would plant your tomatoes), would perform even better than a SIP in my experience. I have very little of that kind of space so my SIPs  ,especially the 25 gallon ,are for me the next best thing.
With the in ground pot you would have the smaller size portability for storing for the Winter as well as the full rooting access to good garden soil for the season. This could also give you a greater length of time they would be fine without being watered if gone on vacation etc...
I love my SIPs , but realize my figs would grow even better if planted in the ground for the season , if I had a access to a sunny garden site.
Last season I had a Hardy Hartford in a 5 gallon pot , planted in very poor gravely soil at a friends house, and with occasional liquid organic feeding it out grew almost everything else and yielded very well.
If you go with SIPs , for me the production is  much better in the few 7 to 8 gallon SIPs compared to the 5 gallon bucket SIPs. I just can't  find that size pot very readily or cheaply , so the 5 gallon buckets are what I use for now.
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Kerry Zone 5 NH
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Rewton

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Posted Reply with quote  #7 
Kerry, would you please post a link to the 7-8 gallon containers you have used for SIPs?  I'm always on the lookout for alternatives.
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Steve MD zone 7a
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Posted Reply with quote  #8 
Rewton ,
The people who make the plastic half barrel that Bill of Bills Figs uses , used to make a smaller version of their 25 gallon pot that many of my larger figs are in. Not made anymore by that source.
FRM plastics in Leominster , MA  , I think is the correct name and I think they were called Smartpots(or something close to that) , the half whiskey barrels are sometimes marketed as Smartbarrelz
I think of it as a 7 to 8 gallon pot because once I installed the Bills Fig type reservoir in it , that is how much soil I think they took. It may actually be a 10 gallon pot with no reservoir , not sure.
I bought a few at the same time I bought a couple of pallets of the 25 gallon pots from them.
They don't make the 25 gallon pots anymore either I think , just the plastic half whiskey barrels.
The shape of the whiskey barrel SIPs are probably a little more stable in the wind once the fig tree has got some size .
That would be another benefit of the partially buried pot with holes in the sides ,little or no blow over as occasionally can happen to my SIPs  in a windy spot.
Some people recommend planting those "holey pots" only a couple of inches deep , but since the soils here are very well draining sandy soils you can plant them up to the rim almost and get the benefit of wind stability.
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Kerry Zone 5 NH
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drivewayfarmer

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Posted Reply with quote  #9 
Sorry that is F&M plastics in Leominster , Ma.

http://www.fmtool.com

This is more direct :  http://www.smartwareproducts.com/

I was told they don't make these anymore , the middle size in the picture is what I was mentioning as 7-8 gallon size: http://www.smartwareproducts.com/ecoplanter.pdf
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rcantor

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Posted Reply with quote  #10 
Sand-weight = perlite   :)   Early in the season I have the pots too close together for any to tip.  Later I move some and let roots grow into the soil which prevents tipping.  If a lot of wind is coming and there aren't any anchoring roots yet I huddle the pots together again, against a fence if need be.

Side holes (at the bottom) without center holes in the bottom alow you to sever the roots more easily if you have to move the pot.

There are a few nurseries near me that give away their used pots.  That's where I get all of mine.
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Rewton

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Posted Reply with quote  #11 
Bob, I was thinking the same thing about perlite being a replacement for sand but then one gets into the how fine the perlite is and whether it should be used at the same ratio in the recipe.  Also, does perlite wick the same way sand does? The basic recipe is 30% play sand (washed), 10% mesquite lump charcoal (crushed), 20% pumice, 20% coconut coir, and 20% pine bark.  Maybe I could try using 10% sand and 20% perlite instead of 30% sand?  I'm sure that would help with weight.
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Steve MD zone 7a
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Posted Reply with quote  #12 
1.  18-gallon tubs from Home Depot...drill holes into the bottom-SIDES.

2.  Fill with at least 15 gallons of quick-draining, modified 5:1:1:1 growing medium and plant the tree.  "ascpete' posted proportions and ingredients for this Pine-Bark-Perlite, quick-draining, light weight mix.  *

3.  Trim the roots every 3-4 years, and replace the growing medium with a fresh batch when roots are pruned.  See note.

4.  Sink containers halfway into soil, and mulch heavily up the sides of the tub, right up to the rim.  Water heavily when going on vacation, and especially heavily water the surrounding soil to encourage roots to grow outside the container and into the moist soil that surrounds the tub.  Wandering roots will help tree drink up available moisture.

5.  Sever roots with a sharp spade after trees go dormant, lift the tubs, place them on dollies and roll them into storage area.

                ________________________________________________

NOTE:  When roots need trimming, you can replant the tree right back into the same tub, and keep doing this for years.  Home Depot sells 18-gallon storage tubs for less than $10.00, and the tubs have handles for lifting.  I have a tree growing in one of these tubs, with a 4" diameter trunk X approx. 5 ft high.  It gives me dozens of figs each year.

* DON'T FORGET TO ADD GRANULAR LIMESTONE IN THE GROWING MIX...AND USE AN ORGANIC FERTILIZER.  (I use ESPOMA Iron-Tone, with dilute Miracle-Gro tonics).


Frank
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Posted Reply with quote  #13 
Over the years iv'e kept it simple with nothing fancy other than some MG fertilizer and large pots
on cement and landscaping rocks in full sun.

Root pruning a must to keep trees in healthy state for potted fig plants.
Chivas

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Posted Reply with quote  #14 
I am thinking that your putting them on the cement and the rocks really helps add to the heat units giving you a better chance of ripening late figs or just at the peak time Martin, have you ever tried black or red rocks to absorb more heat? 
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Posted Reply with quote  #15 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chivas
I am thinking that your putting them on the cement and the rocks really helps add to the heat units giving you a better chance of ripening late figs or just at the peak time Martin, have you ever tried black or red rocks to absorb more heat? 


Yes the rocks and 20x30 cement patio work well for our plants here near Chicago as ive shown pictures
of many different cultivars over the years.
Red or black rocks i do not have in yard so i just use whats on hand.  ; )
timmy2green

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Posted Reply with quote  #16 
Ok I was going to say "not marijuana" in the header knowing someone would think that haha Thanks Rewton!

Seems like many people like SIPs, which I know little about but plan to look into them and experiment with small diy ones for some cuttings soon...maybe today.
I like Bob's advice to ask local nurseries if they give away old pots.  I may try buckets for some but i'd need to locate buckets first.  But then I have some larger trees that are already in 5g+ pots, what about them?  If I want to go to larger pots, at what size pot would I be able to maintain at max size?  15g, 20g?

Another question is regarding the placement of pots on pavement that Martin does.  Last year I had moved and when I did, I had a UHaul, mostly filled with fig trees, that I put them all out on the driveway.  However, the driveway was so hot that it burned my bare feet to walk on it, so I figured it would damage or kill the trees.  They went limp, but I'm not sure if the driveway heat was the cause.  Can the pavement ever get too hot for the trees/roots?

Then I moved the trees to a part of my yard where the soil is fast draining sand and my trees struggled all year.  They seemed to dry out very quickly and I wasn't sure if the extremely poor growth was from the soil drying out so much, the location getting afternoon and evening full sun only (they used to get morning and afternoon but no evening), or the fact that to compensate for the quick drying soil, I was running a sprinkler on them every morning?

Please share your thoughts guys/gals?

As for large pots... I grow tropical fruit trees in them, but the blue tubs/totes from Lowe's with white rope handles only seem to last about 2-3 yrs before they become brittle and crack apart.  I did find gray ones at a Lowe's once that came 2 to a package for about $8-$10 if I recall.  They were slightly smaller but seem much more durable and built to last than the thin blue ones.  Plus they're more manageable size/weight.  Unfortunately, I haven't seen them since.  If I do, I'm buying them all.
See pics of the two types below.
Plastic tote 2.jpg 
Plastic tote 3.jpg 
Plastic tote 4.jpg 
Plastic tote 5.jpg  

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BLB

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Posted Reply with quote  #17 
Those large tubs that are sold pretty cheaply are not UV stable so the sun beating down on them breaks them down and they crack. If you can find black tubs designed for use as fish ponds, then you have a UV stable pot in the making. Just drill drainage holes and you're set
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Posted Reply with quote  #18 
Timothy,
The rope handled tubs (or plastic storage containers) can be painted with any good latex outdoor paint to help protect them from UV degradation, and extend their useful outdoor lifespan. These 70 qt "Muck Buckets" from tractor supply are heavy duty outdoor rated #2 HDPE , are available in multiple colors and have a 5 year warranty, but cost $16.00.
Fortiflex Large Capacity Plastic Bucket, 17.5 gal. Capacity, Burgundy
Fortiflex Large Capacity Plastic Bucket, 17.5 gal. Capacity, Burgundy
Tuff Stuff Products Tuff Muck Bucket Cart, 300 lb.
Tuff Stuff Products Tuff Muck Bucket Cart, 300 lb.  


I plan on fabricating barrel SIPs with 30 gallon barrels being my largest containers. They hold almost 20 gallons of potting mix with a 5 1/2 gallon reservoir. I was able to get several dozen for free, they are usually available if you search around.


30 gallon Barrel before SIP.jpg 30 gallon Barrel SIP.jpg  .

<edit> The barrels were collected from a construction site, they contained a salt solution. They had been rinsed clean and were scheduled to be disposed of with the construction debris. I also collected a few standard shaped white barrels from another site. I have read that a lot of people find them on Craigslist.
Rewton

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Posted Reply with quote  #19 
Tim, I've heard that drip irrigation into containers is much than using a sprinkler system because you don't want to get the entire plant wet.

Pete, those barrels look like a great find.  Can you elaborate on where you found them?
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Steve MD zone 7a
pino

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Posted Reply with quote  #20 
Is there a soil PH that works best for figs?  Bronxfigs mentioned to add granular limestone but how do you know the right amount?
Thanks
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elin

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Posted Reply with quote  #21 
Daniel hi
i think you got somthing there- maybe we can control ripening time with heating pots?
BTW in my summer plants get 107 f so this summer ill cover them with a shade cloth 

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timmy2green

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Posted Reply with quote  #22 

Did ya'll see where I asked if the pavement can ever get too hot for the trees/roots... what do you think?

Also its awesome to see people from all the way in Israel posting on this thread; thats a beautiful thing!
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Tylt33

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Posted Reply with quote  #23 
My personal feeling (experience) is that you can cook roots of just about any plants.  At the very least, the roots on the bottom and outside of the pots dry up more quickly than those on the interior, and can be damaged/killed.  
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