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Encanto Farms Nursery > Topics > Potting mediums-what's your favorite/which works best?
 
 


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potatochips101

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Posted Reply with quote  #1 
Hi folks, how are you keeping?
I'll be needing to pot up my cuttings if all goes well. I have coco coir from coconut husks and a professional peat based growers medium that I mix up with light fertilizer, and azomite. It works ok but if I forget to water it it dries to a husk.
Should I keep up with this mix and make a SIP or do you have a better potting mix that you can recommend?
Also what potting mix do you use when you move your cutting to a gallon sized pot?
I've come to realize that my bag of Miracle Grow potting mix harbors its fair share of critters that may be alright outside in a container but not so in the home.
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Maryland Zone 7a
Seeking: Panache Tiger Stripe, Ronde De Bordeaux,Black Bethlehem, Sicilian Red, Malta Black, Gino's Black, Col de Dame gris, Figo Preto, Orphan, Black Mission, Macool,Pastilliere, Malta Black, Battalagia Green, Maltese Falcon, Galicia

Please PM me if you have any of the above rooted cuttings or trees for sale or trade.
I am new to collecting so I don't have much to trade as yet.

Currently growing in containers:
Brown Turkey, Atreano,Alma Violetta, English Brown Turkey, Celeste, JH Adriatic, LSU Purple, LSU Tiger, Banana, Early Violette, Stanford, Green Ischia, Violette Du Bordeaux, Mary Lane, Petite Negra, Hollier, Alma, Chicago Hardy, Sals Corleone, Black Madiera, Smith, Desert King, Negronne, St. Rita, Atreano Gold,
Tylt33

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Posted Reply with quote  #2 
I use a modified gritty mix of 4:3:2 perlite:mini bark: calcined clay. Works amazing. Use a rayon mop string as a wick.
KK4DFU

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Posted Reply with quote  #3 

When I lived in the Mecca of C’ville Virginia they had real nurseries. They carried Fafard 3B mix which I found to be the best for growing nearly everything. 

Now that I’ve been transplated into suburbia... No one carries anything good, even the lustralux nurseries here. I mix my own: 

4 parts perlite, 3 parts pine park, 2 parts compost, 1 part sphagnum peat moss and a dash of lime and osmocote. 
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nullzero

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Posted Reply with quote  #4 
I would ditch the peat moss, and opt for something like a 1 pine bark \ 1 coir \ 1 perlite mix.
ADelmanto

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Posted Reply with quote  #5 
50% pro mix HP 50% soil conditioner (pine bark fines). Dash of lime and ozmacote.
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bullet08

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Posted Reply with quote  #6 
to 1 gal, i keep same mix as in cup. 50/50 perlite/seedling soil from MG. when i move out of 1 gal, i use 5:1:1 soil conditioner/perlite/s. peat moss. works well for 2-3 yrs.

i keep same mix to 1 gal since i don't bareroot at that stage. when going out of 1 gal, i bareroot. two different zone of soil mix can lead to one zone holding excess moisture.
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Pete
Durham, NC
Zone 7b

"don't talk to me about naval tradition. It's nothing but rum, sodomy and the lash." - sir winston churchill
"the problem with socialism is that eventually you run out of other people's money." - the baroness thatcher

***** all my figs have FMV/FMD, in case you're wondering. *****
***** and... i don't sell things. what little i have will be posted here in winter for first come first serve base to be shared. no, i'm not a socialist...*****
ascpete

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Posted Reply with quote  #7 
Hello Potatochips101,
The following mixes are what works for me. <edit>

Potting mix for cuttings:
2 - parts sifted Pine Bark Mulch 1/4" to 1/8" mesh
2 - parts sifted Perlite 1/4" to 1/8" mesh
1 - part Coconut Coir fines
1 - part Peat moss

Potting Mix 1 gallon and larger...
5 - parts sifted Pine Bark Mulch 1/2" mesh
1 - part Peat Moss   
1 - part Perlite           
1 - part Fullers Earth  (Oil Absorbent/Tractor Supply)   
     Plus - 1 cup Dolemite Limestone and 1 cup Espoma Plant-Tone per 5 gallon of mix.

The Espoma (Garden-tone, Plant-tone or Tomato-tone) contributes fertilizer, micro-nutrient and Mycorrhizae to the mix, in addition to other insoluble nutrients. The Dolemite Limestone increases pH and adds Calcium and Magnesium which are introduced over time as it breaks down with all the microbial action in the mix from the fungal and bacterial cultures (mycorrhizae).

For comparison:
Fertilome UPM: 85% - 15% (peat - perlite).
Pro-Mix BX:       85% - 15% (peat - perlite).
Pro-Mix HP:      75% - 25% (peat - perlite).
Fafard52:         60% - 30% - 10% (pinebark - peat - perlite)
5-1-1:              71.4% - 14.3% - 14.3% (pine bark - peat - perlite).
5-1-1-1:           62.5% - 12.5% - 12.5% - -12.5% (pine bark - peat - perlite - Oil Absorbent)

Good Luck.
potatochips101

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Posted Reply with quote  #8 
Thank you all for your responses. I've gotten some good ideas from all of you. That's why I appreciate this forum. It's like a family of fig growers helping each other out.
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Maryland Zone 7a
Seeking: Panache Tiger Stripe, Ronde De Bordeaux,Black Bethlehem, Sicilian Red, Malta Black, Gino's Black, Col de Dame gris, Figo Preto, Orphan, Black Mission, Macool,Pastilliere, Malta Black, Battalagia Green, Maltese Falcon, Galicia

Please PM me if you have any of the above rooted cuttings or trees for sale or trade.
I am new to collecting so I don't have much to trade as yet.

Currently growing in containers:
Brown Turkey, Atreano,Alma Violetta, English Brown Turkey, Celeste, JH Adriatic, LSU Purple, LSU Tiger, Banana, Early Violette, Stanford, Green Ischia, Violette Du Bordeaux, Mary Lane, Petite Negra, Hollier, Alma, Chicago Hardy, Sals Corleone, Black Madiera, Smith, Desert King, Negronne, St. Rita, Atreano Gold,
rafed

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Posted Reply with quote  #9 
I prefer these in the following preferred order.

Fertilome UPM
Fafard 52 Mix
LC1

I quit adding perlite to what already is in the mix. I want to retain water in my pots than to drain quickly during the hot humid Summer months.
newnandawg

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Posted Reply with quote  #10 
I use Rafed's #1 choice also straight out if the bag.
nycfig

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Posted Reply with quote  #11 
Very interesting.  I love reading potting mix recipes.

Here's what I have on hand:

Coco coir
Peat
MG Potting Mix
Perlite
Vermiculite
Sand

What's a good recipe?
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leon_edmond

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Posted Reply with quote  #12 
For a number of years I used the old Ray Givan potting mix recipe consisting of:

2 parts fine pine bark
1 part perlite
1 part composted manure

Depending on conditions, adding more pine bark or composted manure adjusts for either a more porous vs. water retentive mix.

To this I would dust with dolomitic lime and osmocote.

I got tired of mixing my own potting soil and now I purchase a ready mix nursery blend from a local supplier that is cheaper and works just as well.
greenfig

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Posted Reply with quote  #13 
Should the potting mix depend on the climate conditions?
I believe the one that works fine in MI might be to porous in CA since it is much dryer and hotter in CA, no?
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ascpete

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Posted Reply with quote  #14 

Greenfig,
IMO the answer should be NO ; )
Because the question should actually be whats best for the fig tree, not necessarily whats best for the grower. <edit>

But to address your question, the mix can and should be modified to meet your specific conditions. The recipes should be used as a starting or reference point. But, the fig cutting mix recipes should remain light and porous to allow for air and moisture retention without getting water logged,which should yield the highest survival rates.
bullet08

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Posted Reply with quote  #15 
not sure about the science behind 5:1:1 mix, but it does very well for the potted figs. of course, you'll have to add necessary fertilizer, lime and so as needed.
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Pete
Durham, NC
Zone 7b

"don't talk to me about naval tradition. It's nothing but rum, sodomy and the lash." - sir winston churchill
"the problem with socialism is that eventually you run out of other people's money." - the baroness thatcher

***** all my figs have FMV/FMD, in case you're wondering. *****
***** and... i don't sell things. what little i have will be posted here in winter for first come first serve base to be shared. no, i'm not a socialist...*****
Feigenbaum

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Posted Reply with quote  #16 
Quote:
Originally Posted by greenfig
Should the potting mix depend on the climate conditions? I believe the one that works fine in MI might be to porous in CA since it is much dryer and hotter in CA, no?



IMO yes.

A climate where it's a lot of rain during the growing period and cooler temperatures it is good to have a mix with a good drainange so the roots won't rot. (i would add more perlite and barkfines to the soil)

In a hotter climate with high temperatures this mix might be too light to hold enough water.
In hot summer days my little pots get's watered in the morning before i go to work.
When i came back in the evening those pots are almost completely dry.
And  i don't live in a mediterranian region...

So i guess in a hot dry climate like Las Vegas or L.A. it is nessesary to have a mix which hold the water a longer period of time. So it is possilble to add more soil and less perlite or mulch.
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Hi from Germany! (Zone 7b) Christian
kubota1

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Posted Reply with quote  #17 
I agree with Rafed 100%. I like my pots to retain some moisture. I still have to water daily.
I really like Fox Farm Ocean Forest. I had great results last year with it.
I also use Pro Mix w/BIOFUNGICIDE. http://www.pthorticulture.com/en/pro-mix-bx-biofungicide-biostimulant-growing-medium/ I've been up potting with this.

I started out making my own mix with Peat, pine nuggets, and perlite. I just hate having all the bags of this and that laying around.
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greenfig

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Posted Reply with quote  #18 
Thanks, guys.. One yes, and one no :)
I am leaning towards the yes myself.

I have a question about adding the gypsum versus the lime into a mix.
How do they work and is it a bad idea to add both?
It is much easier to buy the gypsum for me than the Dolomite Lime.
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coop951

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Posted Reply with quote  #19 
I've been looking at the ingredients of lots of different mixes lately and they all have the same basics as we are all using. They all however contain a "wetting agent"
What is the "wetting agent"???
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Northern NJ Zone 7a
Willofig

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Posted Reply with quote  #20 
I used Pro Mix HP all last year for potting up with great results.
This year I will try Nectar of the Gods potting mix as recommended by local hydroponic shop,
was told by owner he was having twice to triple grow compared to Pro Mix HP.
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Mario
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Willowick,Oh
mgginva

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Posted Reply with quote  #21 
Once they go into 1 gallon pots it's Fafard #52 soil mix for everybody and everything. I do add small amounts of lime, Azomite clay (minerals), bunny poop, fish fertilizer, kelp, crushed egg shells and pretty much anything that will deliver micronutrients and anything that's organic and is on sale. I have been using less compost and more bunny poo as there isn't enough compost for my figs and veggie container garden. The egg shells do help somewhat with the slugs if crushed enough.
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Michael in Virginia (zone 7a) Wish list:   Perretta, 
WillsC

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Posted Reply with quote  #22 
If anyone wants to try Peat's blend Tractor supply has the Saf T sorb on sale for half off, 80 pounds for $7.
greenfig

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Posted Reply with quote  #23 
It seems my gypsum question slipped through the cracks. Anybody is using it?
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DesertDance

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Posted Reply with quote  #24 
Well, figs like well drained soil, so whatever you use should be well drained.  Peat retains water, and figs don't like that.  This is from Al on Garden Web, and it's a winner!

1 part uncomposted screened pine or fir bark (1/8-1/4")
1 part screened Turface or Diatonacious Earth (I use Turface)

1 part crushed Gran-I-Grit (grower size) or #2 cherrystone (I use crushed granite)
1 Tbsp gypsum per gallon of soil
CRF (if desired)
Source of micro-nutrients or use a fertilizer that contains all essentials I use 1/8 -1/4 tsp Epsom salts per gallon of fertilizer solution when I fertilize (check your fertilizer - if it is soluble, it is probable it does not contain Ca or Mg.


Suzi
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elin

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Posted Reply with quote  #25 
I use: 
garden loamy soil-costs nothing and is very rich in nutrients.
some fibrous material-only to increase drainage and aeration(coco or some bark)
some compost.

this summer  i will take a small pot of compost and put it over the main tree pot and will irrigate over the compost pot and the tree will "drink" compost tea.

this is because i tried mixing alot of compost to the mix but it makes the soil too heavy and moist.
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bullet08

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Posted Reply with quote  #26 
honest truth is fig will grow in almost anything. and once the tree is big enough, it will handle stress lot better. i would have thought last yr's constant rain will rot the root, but they handled it well. tho some figs didn't taste good. i'm getting tired of mixing the soil also, but not finding cheaper alternative. i wish there is cheaper alternative to 5:1:1 mix that doesn't weight too much and doesn't compact as quickly.
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Pete
Durham, NC
Zone 7b

"don't talk to me about naval tradition. It's nothing but rum, sodomy and the lash." - sir winston churchill
"the problem with socialism is that eventually you run out of other people's money." - the baroness thatcher

***** all my figs have FMV/FMD, in case you're wondering. *****
***** and... i don't sell things. what little i have will be posted here in winter for first come first serve base to be shared. no, i'm not a socialist...*****
milehighgirl

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Posted Reply with quote  #27 
Okay, this is a newbie question. When you guys are talking about potting medium you are not talking about rooting medium, are you?
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USDA Zone 5b, Sunset 2b

Looking for: Becane, Dalmatie, Doree, Florea, Hanc's EBT, Italian 258, LaRadek's EBT, Longue d'Aout, Marseilles White , Negronne, Nordland, Sal's EL, Strawberry Vert, ...anything cold hardy and short season. (Willing to pay for cuttings)
bullet08

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Posted Reply with quote  #28 
for me, soil mixes for rooting and grown tree are different. but i guess if you are using premium bagged mix, i guess you can use the same.
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Pete
Durham, NC
Zone 7b

"don't talk to me about naval tradition. It's nothing but rum, sodomy and the lash." - sir winston churchill
"the problem with socialism is that eventually you run out of other people's money." - the baroness thatcher

***** all my figs have FMV/FMD, in case you're wondering. *****
***** and... i don't sell things. what little i have will be posted here in winter for first come first serve base to be shared. no, i'm not a socialist...*****
ascpete

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Posted Reply with quote  #29 
WillsC,
Thanks for the heads up, I just purchased a few hundred pounds and will be back for more, the sale price ends Jan. 19th. Its actually 30% less than my usual price.

Greenfig,
Gypsum is usually used on Alkaline soils with less than 19" of rain/year.
Limestone is usually used on Acidic soils with more than 20" of rain/year.
The quoted recommendation is to get your Calcium and pH levels checked to see if you need to add either one.
In potting mixes Limestone helps to neutralize the acid from Peat and Pine Bark, while Gypsum is only used for its Calcium content.

Pete,
I'm in total agreement fig trees will grow in almost anything.
How healthy and productive is my question. A large number of potted trees that I have seen personally are being grown in mixes that hold too much moisture resulting in stunted growth, small leaves, close internode spacing, usually showing signs of nutrient deficiency and have poor root development.

Milehighgirl,
There may be as many as three (3) different mixes depending on how you root and grow your fig cuttings.
#1 is pre-rooting or rooting, #2 is the cutting mix and #3 is the growing mix 1 gallon containers and larger. Many growers use the same mix for all stages of growth.
milehighgirl

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Posted Reply with quote  #30 
I am not sure if I had beginners luck last year or not but the Green Moss was great for rooting. I think I will stick with that but will maybe try Food For The Gods or Pro Mix.
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USDA Zone 5b, Sunset 2b

Looking for: Becane, Dalmatie, Doree, Florea, Hanc's EBT, Italian 258, LaRadek's EBT, Longue d'Aout, Marseilles White , Negronne, Nordland, Sal's EL, Strawberry Vert, ...anything cold hardy and short season. (Willing to pay for cuttings)
bullet08

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Posted Reply with quote  #31 
pete,

from your previous post, it seems you are also using al's 5:1:1: mix. that mix compacts quickly, within 2-3 yrs. last spring, all my brebas started drying up. not sure if it was due to compact soil, but when i cut into the soil for emergency root pruning, almost all the ingredients were broken down.

what do you do to prevent soil break down? i've been using 12" screw driver to poke holes in the soil every month. but i do notice smaller leaves. i think fig quality is suffering also.
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Pete
Durham, NC
Zone 7b

"don't talk to me about naval tradition. It's nothing but rum, sodomy and the lash." - sir winston churchill
"the problem with socialism is that eventually you run out of other people's money." - the baroness thatcher

***** all my figs have FMV/FMD, in case you're wondering. *****
***** and... i don't sell things. what little i have will be posted here in winter for first come first serve base to be shared. no, i'm not a socialist...*****
ascpete

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Posted Reply with quote  #32 
Pete,
I added the Fullers earth (oil absorbent) to make the modified 5-1-1-1 mix.
It may be that you may need to root prune every 2 years and or it may be your container size. I re potted several containers and the the mix was still quite loose, with a lot of bark pieces. Some of the peat moss had been washed out, but all the oil absorbent was still intact and reusable. BTW I sift the fines out of the Perlite and pass the Pine bark mulch through 1/2 in hardware cloth. I have not found any containers that have compacted mix. I do have a few containers that are root bound.

I plan on utilizing SIPs as growing containers this year to ensure that the plants stay watered. I missed a day or two during a dry period and the difference was very noticeable. An automated watering system would probably work also.
WillsC

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Posted Reply with quote  #33 
Peat,

I bought 240 pounds today, yeah it was not quite half off.
Gofigure

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Posted Reply with quote  #34 

Chips, you mentioned sand.

I found pool filter sand to be much more coarse and cleaner out of the bag than other types, especially "play" sand.

I don't have any experience rooting cuttings. This is my attempt before reading this topic.

I'm using totes I picked up at Lowes a couple days ago for rooting pyracantha cuttings I found on the side of the road Friday. The are hinged, interlocking lid totes but the tote is clear and the lid is black. They can be stacked on each other and still get light through the sides. I have 19 large cups in each tote, with small holes 2 inches from the bottom instead of fully perforated, made with a tiny eyeglass screw driver, repeatedly warming the tip on an electric stove eye to melt through the cups. Cups sit directly on the bottom of the tote rather than on a screen so they don't tip over as easily. The totes have an air gap all around the lids edge by design and water can be added by lifting a corner a bit, leaving them stacked. I added a 1/4 inch of water to the bottom of the totes for now for some humidity. The mix is 1/2 medium vermiculite and 1/2 decomposed, miracle grow enhanced peat moss. Guess I need to add some pool sand or other non-absorbent and some lime?
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ATL, GA, Zone 7b In ground varieties (22):Osborne Prolific, Conadria, Petit Negri, O'Rourke, Hardy Chicago, Texas BA-1, Alma, Celeste, Kadota, Green Ischia, Brown Turkey, Black Mission, Violette de Bordeaux, Texas Everbearing, Magnolia/Brunswick, LSU Purple, Dark Portuguese, Black Greek, Ronde de Bordeaux, Champagne, Dark Portuguese, Hybrid 0023. 
Rooting: Excel, 187-25, 291-4, 143-36, Cole de Dame, Calvert, Vernino, Santa Cruz Dark, Pastilliere, St. Jean, Barnisotte, Native de Argentile, VdB, Osborne Prolific.
rcantor

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Posted Reply with quote  #35 
I don't think diatomaceous earth is a good idea for a soil mix.  It's very fine and can choke the roots.  Turface, NAPA Floor-Dry and other calcined clays are much coarser.
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Zone 6, MO

Wish list:
Galicia Negra, De La Reina - Pons, Genovese Nero - Rafed's, Sbayi, Souadi, Acciano, Any Rimada, Sodus Sicilian, any Bass, Pons or Axier fig, any great tasting fig.
newnandawg

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Posted Reply with quote  #36 
Bob, I agree on not using diatomaceous earth in the soil. Once it becomes wet, it becomes a paste and a  clogging factor.
Diamond_72

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Posted Reply with quote  #37 
We have got  a lot of leave-compost in Germany every year.
The compost have many insects inside. Is it possible to mix this type of compost with perlite and vermiculite to use it for potting in gallon or figs do not love it?

I want to use it, because it is cheap and I can mix it everytime.

Geetz
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Posted Reply with quote  #38 
Here are pictures of the humus.

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Sandhill

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Posted Reply with quote  #39 
I'm amazed with the variety of soil mixes.  I use equal measures (by volume) of pine bark fines/ perlite/ vermiculite/ and peat moss for most things with 3/4 cups of dolomitic lime for each cubic foot of pine bark and peat moss that I use, I know this forum is re. figs, but this is what i used for seed germination and after I transplant the seedlings, it works great for container grown plants. A less expensive mix would be 3 parts pine bark fines to 1 part peat moss for potted figs.  I've used coir and found that it forms algae growth on the surface, especially if kept moist or if there's plenty of rain. I don't like to use sand as it adds weight to the container.
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