how much time in humidity bin

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PepperMan

Registered:1391817274
Posts: 109

Posted 1393985805	Reply with quote #1

Hello guys and gals, I have a few questions about using a humidity bin. I was lucky enough to have a generous member from pa send me a few cuttings. Two of these cuttings have started rooting in damp moss. I potted the cutting with the larger roots into a transparent quart container filled with fifty percent course perelite and fifty percent sterilized potting mix. I have it around eighty percent humidity and about seventy five degrees. If I start to see some leaves forming is there a specefic amount of time I should keep it in the bin sealed or should I ventalate it a few times a day to prevent mold. How will I know when the plant is stable enough to start the hardening off process? Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks chad __________________ Chad New Jersey, Zone 6B Wish List: Col de Dame Gris, Col de Dame Noir. I have small trees for trade starting in May! PM me if interested.

bullet08

Registered:1284496248
Posts: 6,920

Posted 1393986266	Reply with quote #2

once bud breaks and leaves come out, air out maybe 5 min a day for few days. then increase it to 15-20 min and so on till they can stay 1 hr or more without the lid. __________________ Pete Durham, NC Zone 7b "don't talk to me about naval tradition. It's nothing but rum, sodomy and the lash." - sir winston churchill "the problem with socialism is that eventually you run out of other people's money." - the baroness thatcher *** all my figs have FMV/FMD, in case you're wondering. * * and... i don't sell things. what little i have will be posted here in winter for first come first serve base to be shared. no, i'm not a socialist...***

rcantor

Registered:1309799312
Posts: 5,724

Posted 1393986872	Reply with quote #3

If you have roots but no leaves they don't need a humidity chamber. The leaves will be used to whatever environment they come out into. __________________ Zone 6, MO Wish list: Galicia Negra, De La Reina - Pons, Genovese Nero - Rafed's, Sbayi, Souadi, Acciano, Any Rimada, Sodus Sicilian, any Bass, Pons or Axier fig, any great tasting fig.

ascpete

Registered:1336096379
Posts: 1,942

Posted 1394063792	Reply with quote #4

Chad, I second Bob C.'s recommendation. As soon as the buds start to swell, I would remove from the humidity Bin since they are already rooted. I only use the humidity chamber (bin, dome) for the few cuttings that have leaves but no roots or for the 2 week period after initial potting to keep moisture in the potting mix and reduce watering. After that they are moved into ambient conditions and misted occasionally if needed. Rooted cupped cuttings should be moved out of the high humidity environment as soon as possible.

GeneDaniels

Registered:1384021772
Posts: 1,014

Posted 1394193855	Reply with quote #5

From what you guys are saying, removed from bid as soon as budbreak, but that is when you know there are roots. What about when you have budbreak and "think" there are roots in the cup? I have 4 cuttings that I could not get to start in a baggie so I put them in cuts with Perlite/long moss mixture. They are budding, but I cannot yet tell for sure if they have roots, or to what degree they are rooted. any suggestions on when to remove them from the bin? I had one that did this earlier, but then the buds all rotted because of all the humidity. __________________ Zone 7b (Central Arkansas) Seven trees in the ground: Hardy Chicago, Celeste(?), LSU gold, Italian Black, Southern Brown Turkey(?), Strawberry Verte, and Unk yellow. Trees in pots: VdB, CdD, and Sicilian?

bullet08

Registered:1284496248
Posts: 6,920

Posted 1394194477	Reply with quote #6

what i would do and what is being suggested from others are different. i would keep them in the humidity bin. air out daily. increase the air out time as time goes on. if there is moisture being collected on the bud or leaves, i would wipe them off. but like i said.. it seems what i do is different from what others are doing. :) __________________ Pete Durham, NC Zone 7b "don't talk to me about naval tradition. It's nothing but rum, sodomy and the lash." - sir winston churchill "the problem with socialism is that eventually you run out of other people's money." - the baroness thatcher *** all my figs have FMV/FMD, in case you're wondering. * * and... i don't sell things. what little i have will be posted here in winter for first come first serve base to be shared. no, i'm not a socialist...***

ascpete

Registered:1336096379
Posts: 1,942

Posted 1394199144	Reply with quote #7

GeneDaniels, The pre-rooted cuttings are usually only placed in clear cups after they have rooted, so I already know that they have roots and a humidity bin is not necessary. I continue increased humidity only for the few cupped cuttings that start to leaf out without roots after 4 - 6 weeks in the rooting stage. My humidity chamber at this stage is an open bin with the cupped cuttings in the bottom that is misted twice a day to keep the leaves hydrated. It usually maintains 65% - 80% RH which doesn't rot the leaves or cause mold growth. Also since they are in clear cups, its very easy to see if the roots are actually growing. Good luck.

rafaelissimmo

Registered:1335639347
Posts: 1,473

Posted 1394249348	Reply with quote #8

Pete, so, to summarize: leaves, no roots: humidity bin; leaves and roots: no humidity bin; and finally, no leaves but roots: humidity bin for 2 weeks or less if buds leaf out, to conserve moisture in the prewetted potting mix. Does this sound about right? Thx Rafael __________________ Zone 7b, Queens, New York

ascpete

Registered:1336096379
Posts: 1,942

Posted 1394249929

Reply with quote #9

Rafael,
Yes...
Basically this is my procedure.
[image]

Here is a topic started by Pino addressing the same subject...

Quote:

http://figs4funforum.websitetoolbox.com/post/show_single_post?pid=1281618816&postcount=1 ,

The goal is to get the fig cuttings to the happy stage for them and no more stress stage for us. Where the little figs have 3 or more regular leaves, healthy roots and are growing;

Stage of scion progress	Strategy Maintain temperatures 72F-78F (22C-26C) bottom heat.	Application
1. Start rooting (Cuttings have no roots/no green growth)	Humidity 85-90% RH, rooting media damp not wet	Various initial rooting methods. (baggie, perlite, SM, other) All seem to work if you maintain proper humidity, air out regularly to prevent mold.
2a. Cutting grows green shoots but no roots yet.	Not preferred but once leaves form need to monitor humidity carefully since too much can rot leaves not enough will dry them out. - Plant cuttings in cups. - Maintain humidity ~65-85% RH - Provide Light. It is now essential so the leaves grow and help roots form.	Plant in cups, 50/50 perlite/soil mix. use a humidity bin water in bottom plants suspended above water. open lid to air out regularly. (or use misting system) ..note that RH 90% or higher can cause leaves to rot.
2b. Roots form but no green growth	This is preferred to cuttings growing leaves but not roots. - Plant cuttings in cups. - Humidity 65-80% RH	Open lid as required to maintain RH, rooting media damp no watering. Protected environment required but active humidity bin not required.
3. Cutting has formed roots and green growth/leaflets	The cutting is progressing normally. - Humidity 65-80% RH, - Provide Light. It is now essential so the leaves grow and help plant grow.	Open lid as required to maintain RH, minimal watering Protected environment required but active humidity bin no longer required.
4. Happy time - Substantial roots and green growth and 3 or more leaves opening and progressing.	A little fig tree has taken shape. - Humidity 65% or ambient RH - Provide Light. Essential so plant and leaves grow well. - apply mild fertilizer/nutrient	Maintain ambient RH, monitor so they don't dry out but minimal watering. Start hardening off and transplant as required.

Further suggestions, ideas and corrections are welcome.

eboone

Registered:1378418906
Posts: 1,100

Posted 1394252195	Reply with quote #10

Quote: Originally Posted by rafaelissimmo so, to summarize: leaves, no roots: humidity bin If the 'leaves, no roots' are in a moss or paper towel or perlite humidity chamber, do you move them immediately to a cup/SIP/pot in a humidity chamber(with light?) or leave them where they were till roots form? __________________ Ed Zone 6A - Southwest PA --------------------------- Short wish list: CDDG, LSU Red, Dark Greek (Navid), Col Littman's Black Cross. And any cold hardy early fig.

OttawanZ5

Registered:1192897779
Posts: 2,551

Posted 1394253105	Reply with quote #11

Whenever I see the roots in clear cups I prefer to remove the rooted cutting from the humidity chamber before the leaf buds open or are in opening process to let the roots and leaves find their own growth equilibrium in the ambient conditions. __________________ Ottawan-Z5a, Canada

bullet08

Registered:1284496248
Posts: 6,920

Posted 1394258001	Reply with quote #12

i would give this a try. not using humidity bin. only problem is all the cuttings are rather precious ones right now. in ideal situation, the new leaves will adjust to the environment and will grow well at low humidity. and that would be a good thing. __________________ Pete Durham, NC Zone 7b "don't talk to me about naval tradition. It's nothing but rum, sodomy and the lash." - sir winston churchill "the problem with socialism is that eventually you run out of other people's money." - the baroness thatcher *** all my figs have FMV/FMD, in case you're wondering. * * and... i don't sell things. what little i have will be posted here in winter for first come first serve base to be shared. no, i'm not a socialist...***

OttawanZ5

Registered:1192897779
Posts: 2,551

Posted 1394299446	Reply with quote #13

I agree with you on the specialty cuttings where you want the rooted cutting to become well established and you are willing to go to the routine of watching it outside in case the leaves droop and take it back inside and gradually make it used to the outside. __________________ Ottawan-Z5a, Canada

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