OK I bought Daconil at the big Orange box store in a spray bottle ready to use. Instructions said shake and spray! Hhmmm Sounds too easy and it was. The product is thick and their spray setting on the selectable nozzle resulted in a forceful stream of gooeyness that targeted only one cutting. I checked the stream setting and it was worse. The stream was so forceful I worried about damaging or even completely dislodging the new tender growth coming from the cuttings. In order to spray all the cuttings in one bucket resulted in a very wet surface that looked well disgusting. Kind of reminded me of a spittoon. I did these three days ago and I checked the results today. The mold was effectively knocked down however there were some in each bucket that evidently I did not get (maybe it was the backside of the “spray”) even though I rotated the bucket to try and get all sides. Some of the cuttings still looked like I spit on them. I can’t believe this is healthy for them although I believe the mold is worse. I left the covers off all day today to see if I can get some of the humidity out. Except for the mold I believe I was on a very good start. I am very confidant that the cuttings are growing roots as during the course of applying the Clonex I occasionally applied it to the wrong end. I caught and corrected those however I see aerial roots forming on those If there are aerial roots I believe all viable cuttings are rooting.

My original thought was that I could mist the Daconil covering all surfaces of the cuttings with several well placed sprays.

Has anyone else experienced the thick non spray of Daconil. I tried a different hand sprayer and it clogged immediately.

I know I can dilute this but how effective would it be then?

what works best for me, is a combination of airation and fewer cuttings in a box.  the bucket idea sounds perfect, but cuttings seem to do best if not touching one another, where they tend to keep moist in one area.

if I were you, moisten some newspaper, and remove all cuttings from the bucket,  let them dry up for a few minutes, clean them and reorganize them... stacking them up like a tower, crisscross format - as to light a bonfire, line the bottome with newspaper, interlayer a few papers up and down do you can replace the paper if gets too wet. you can control the moist this way... air them out, cover them again with a moist, but mostly drier paper.  condensation raises, so you take the top paper and replace it... the cuttings only need very little moist of their own to root. 

 a flatter box is better, to open and inspect them and leave them alone. I also learned they do not like to be handled much.

Best luck there...

I had to search to find where I saw this... from the orchid forum on Gardenweb:

Quote:

Before you go spending $20 - $50 for a bottle of Physan 20, go to your local pool supply or Home Depot.
The main ingredient is:

n-alkyl (60% C14, 30% C16, 5%C12, 5% C18) 
dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride� 10%
n-alkyl (68% C12, 32% C14) dimethyl 
ethylbenzyl ammonium chloride

Which is the same ingredient that is used in most pool algicides, but t a 5% ratio, as someone who commercially grows, we use the pool supply version which is just as good. Instead of 1 capful of the Physan 20, we use 2 of the pool algicide and the pool algicide, last we bought it, was in the range of $5 - $7. A no brainer. Also, what works well is hydrogen peroxide H2O2 at a 3% solution, what you buy at a drug store.