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nycfig

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Reply with quote  #1 
Hi all.  Completed my first air layer today and wanted to share some pics.

I'm removing an errant branch on my Sal's Corleone so that it can be properly staked and trained.  

Started with a 1 quart Ziploc freezer baggie.  Cut the bottom and top off of baggie and slid over leaves and branch.  
Bunched the bottom of the baggie around the lower part of the branch and tied off tightly with a rubber band that I had cut open.

IMG_2250.jpg  IMG_2251.jpg 
IMG_2252.jpg  IMG_2254.jpg 

I pulled back the baggie and used a utility knife to score the bark of the branch all the way around in 2 places about 1/2" apart, just deep
enough to pierce the upper layer.  I peeled off the top layer and scuffed up the wood underneath with the utility knife.

IMG_2257.jpg  IMG_2258.jpg 
IMG_2259.jpg  IMG_2261.jpg 

Placed a few handfuls of SM into a container filled with water.  Left it to soak for about half an hour.  Wrung out 
lightly a little at time and stuffed the baggie with the SM.

IMG_2253.jpg  IMG_2262.jpg  IMG_2263.jpg 

Cut another rubber band, bunched up the top of the Ziploc baggie around the branch and tightly tied it off.

IMG_2264.jpg  IMG_2265.jpg    

Covered with tin foil to keep in the dark.

IMG_2267.jpg  IMG_2268.jpg    

What do you think?  All critiques are welcome.  Thanks for looking.


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brianm

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Reply with quote  #2 
Looks good, now its a waiting game.
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Joeturbo26

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Reply with quote  #3 
I have a question... how long is the branch you are air layering?  I am just curious as to why one would air layer vs. root a cutting?  I am thinking the only reason would be to yield a larger tree faster?  Just curious!  But as far as the air layering I've seen done (not on figs) in the past... it looks great! 
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nycfig

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Reply with quote  #4 
Joe,

The branch is not that long; only about 10-12". Probably could have clipped it off and rooted. Chose to do it this way because I'm hoping to have a full rooted tree in a few months. I'd like to gift it toward the middle/end of summer. Thanks for asking and thanks for the compliment.

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greenbud

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Reply with quote  #5 
Is there a time of the year that is ideal for doing this type of propagation?  Right now? In a few months when you cut it off below the roots will the original stem bleed very much?
nycfig

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Reply with quote  #6 
Don't know if there is any time of year that is better than the other. I'm sure the stem will bleed a little after it's cut. Shouldn't be too bad, though.
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rafaelissimmo

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Reply with quote  #7 
Your setup looks terrific. I would happily try it your way to a "T." I hope it works out for you. I went with a mixture of soils but SM looks great. If mine works out you are welcome to the plant I create since it is just an experiment!
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jdsfrance

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Reply with quote  #8 
Hi Nycfig,
Didn't the leaves on the stem wilt ?

I wouldn't have scored that much - For me it looks like you scorched it - but if it works :) .

You can do that when the tree is kept active for some time so from now on until beginning September in my climate.
If you start later the airlayer does not have time to set roots before the winter ...

I like to tare apart the new trees in August - September ... But that's me !

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Gina

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Reply with quote  #9 
I also would not have scored the remaining wood that much. One of the benefits of airlayering is allowing the 'cutting' to still receive water from the roots so the leaves won't wilt and continue to function. When you score the wood like that, you are disrupting the water carrying tissues (which is one of the main functions of wood). Hopefully there is still enough functioning tissue beneath that will allow water to get to the leaves so they don't wilt.

When your 'cutting' retains leaves, they are still photosynthesizing and making sugars. Those sugars however can't be carried to the roots because the outer food carrying tissues (external to the cambium) have been removed. A good thing. That allows for the concentration of ample natural sugars in the area where you hope roots will form.

So.. except for too much roughing up of the wood in the cut section, your set up looks good. :)

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nycfig

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Reply with quote  #10 
Rafael - Thank you for the offer.  Please keep me in mind, I might take you up on that.

jds & Gina - Thanks for the input.  The leaves look okay right now.  Do you mean I took off too much bark or roughed up the wood underneath too much?

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Gina

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Reply with quote  #11 
Taking off the bark where it naturally divides is standard. Roughing up the wood beneath is not necessary and if too deep, can be harmful. If the leaves are still looking OK however, it's probably fine. :)
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nycfig

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Reply with quote  #12 
Gina,

Thanks for the input, I really appreciate it. Thought that step was necessary. Watched too many YouTube videos I guess. Won't do it again.

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james

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Reply with quote  #13 
The leaves are still being fed by the roots via the xylem.  It should not be roughed up.  The girdle severs the phloem to prevents photosyntate from passing back to the roots.  The build up of sugars at the girdle is what starts rooting.  If I am certain I will be removing the limb, this is the way I air-layer with the exception that I do not mar the wood underneath and lately I have been using my normal container mix.  If I am not sure I want to remove the limb, I do not girdle.  If I change my mind later (I haven't yet), I can remove the plastic and growing mix to let the roots dry and wood change back.

For those who are not comfortable girdling in this manner, I have found a vegetable peeler works nicely.  It is also useful if you are doing a partial girdle.

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nycfig

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Reply with quote  #14 
Thanks, James.
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