nycfig
Registered:1380768118 Posts: 884
Posted 1399315176
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#1
Hi all. Completed my first air layer today and wanted to share some pics. I'm removing an errant branch on my Sal's Corleone so that it can be properly staked and trained. Started with a 1 quart Ziploc freezer baggie. Cut the bottom and top off of baggie and slid over leaves and branch. Bunched the bottom of the baggie around the lower part of the branch and tied off tightly with a rubber band that I had cut open. I pulled back the baggie and used a utility knife to score the bark of the branch all the way around in 2 places about 1/2" apart, just deep enough to pierce the upper layer. I peeled off the top layer and scuffed up the wood underneath with the utility knife. Placed a few handfuls of SM into a container filled with water. Left it to soak for about half an hour. Wrung out lightly a little at time and stuffed the baggie with the SM. Cut another rubber band, bunched up the top of the Ziploc baggie around the branch and tightly tied it off. Covered with tin foil to keep in the dark. What do you think? All critiques are welcome. Thanks for looking.
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brianm
Registered:1389664758 Posts: 971
Posted 1399333233
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#2
Looks good, now its a waiting game.
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Joeturbo26
Registered:1398466224 Posts: 73
Posted 1399334229
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#3
I have a question... how long is the branch you are air layering? I am just curious as to why one would air layer vs. root a cutting? I am thinking the only reason would be to yield a larger tree faster? Just curious! But as far as the air layering I've seen done (not on figs) in the past... it looks great!
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nycfig
Registered:1380768118 Posts: 884
Posted 1399335998
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#4
Joe,
The branch is not that long; only about 10-12". Probably could have clipped it off and rooted. Chose to do it this way because I'm hoping to have a full rooted tree in a few months. I'd like to gift it toward the middle/end of summer. Thanks for asking and thanks for the compliment.
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greenbud
Registered:1397009790 Posts: 230
Posted 1399346020
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#5
Is there a time of the year that is ideal for doing this type of propagation? Right now? In a few months when you cut it off below the roots will the original stem bleed very much?
nycfig
Registered:1380768118 Posts: 884
Posted 1399348172
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#6
Don't know if there is any time of year that is better than the other. I'm sure the stem will bleed a little after it's cut. Shouldn't be too bad, though.
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rafaelissimmo
Registered:1335639347 Posts: 1,473
Posted 1399899926
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#7
Your setup looks terrific. I would happily try it your way to a "T." I hope it works out for you. I went with a mixture of soils but SM looks great. If mine works out you are welcome to the plant I create since it is just an experiment!
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jdsfrance
Registered:1376988473 Posts: 2,591
Posted 1399923256
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#8
Hi Nycfig, Didn't the leaves on the stem wilt ? I wouldn't have scored that much - For me it looks like you scorched it - but if it works :) . You can do that when the tree is kept active for some time so from now on until beginning September in my climate. If you start later the airlayer does not have time to set roots before the winter ... I like to tare apart the new trees in August - September ... But that's me !
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Gina
Registered:1330452963 Posts: 2,260
Posted 1399932894
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#9
I also would not have scored the remaining wood that much. One of the benefits of airlayering is allowing the 'cutting' to still receive water from the roots so the leaves won't wilt and continue to function. When you score the wood like that, you are disrupting the water carrying tissues (which is one of the main functions of wood). Hopefully there is still enough functioning tissue beneath that will allow water to get to the leaves so they don't wilt. When your 'cutting' retains leaves, they are still photosynthesizing and making sugars. Those sugars however can't be carried to the roots because the outer food carrying tissues (external to the cambium) have been removed. A good thing. That allows for the concentration of ample natural sugars in the area where you hope roots will form. So.. except for too much roughing up of the wood in the cut section, your set up looks good. :)
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nycfig
Registered:1380768118 Posts: 884
Posted 1399953573
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#10
Rafael - Thank you for the offer. Please keep me in mind, I might take you up on that. jds & Gina - Thanks for the input. The leaves look okay right now. Do you mean I took off too much bark or roughed up the wood underneath too much?
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Gina
Registered:1330452963 Posts: 2,260
Posted 1399955956
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#11
Taking off the bark where it naturally divides is standard. Roughing up the wood beneath is not necessary and if too deep, can be harmful. If the leaves are still looking OK however, it's probably fine. :)
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nycfig
Registered:1380768118 Posts: 884
Posted 1399995790
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#12
Gina,
Thanks for the input, I really appreciate it. Thought that step was necessary. Watched too many YouTube videos I guess. Won't do it again.
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james
Registered:1189185103 Posts: 1,653
Posted 1400002773
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#13
The leaves are still being fed by the roots via the xylem. It should not be roughed up. The girdle severs the phloem to prevents photosyntate from passing back to the roots. The build up of sugars at the girdle is what starts rooting. If I am certain I will be removing the limb, this is the way I air-layer with the exception that I do not mar the wood underneath and lately I have been using my normal container mix. If I am not sure I want to remove the limb, I do not girdle. If I change my mind later (I haven't yet), I can remove the plastic and growing mix to let the roots dry and wood change back. For those who are not comfortable girdling in this manner, I have found a vegetable peeler works nicely. It is also useful if you are doing a partial girdle.
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nycfig
Registered:1380768118 Posts: 884
Posted 1400004879
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#14
Thanks, James.
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