aaa
Registered:1377344072 Posts: 75
Posted 1403710638
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#1
Hi All, what time of year should grafting or budding be done and which is the preffered method?
__________________ aaa
armando93223
Registered:1318984112 Posts: 1,164
Posted 1403711672
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#2
Grafting is still new to me. If you are doing grafts on outdoor trees. I believe the cool part of the year. I lost many due to heat. If you can bring a small tree inside, then I would say now. Good Luck....... Here is what I prefer doing....http://figs4funforum.websitetoolbox.com/post/graft-this-is-what-i-have-been-doing-6804541?pid=1282663869#post1282663869
__________________ Armando in the Heart of California
lampo
Registered:1329071797 Posts: 2,060
Posted 1403713915
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#3
aaa, Through early summer say until August you may go with 'T-Bud' and 'chip-budding' which are simple grafting methods.. There are plenty of tutorials on the net.. YouTube, etc These two are the simplest. Later on at dormancy or early spring you may try 'Cleft grafting' which again is simple. Check previous discussions on this forum...:http://figs4funforum.websitetoolbox.com/post/grafting-question-will-this-work-6282141 Francisco
blueboy1977
Registered:1375760370 Posts: 459
Posted 1403719420
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#4
Ive havent had any luck tbudding or cleft grafting figs. That being said I dont think I went about it the right way either. Here are afew lessons I learned. When attempting any kind of graft on a fig, graft it to a branch, not the main trunk. I learned that the hard way! Next lesson is to completely wrap the bud or scion is cleft grafting with a film of some sort. The bud will push its way through the film when its ready. Also leave the tape/film on the graft for a whole growing season until there is no doubt the graft has taken. And finally wrap the grafted unions tight and cover with foil until it heals over. These are all the things I didnt do consistently and the main reasons my grafts probably failed. For me, fig grafts are not as easy as citrus. The inverted Tbud graft on citrus is so easy a cave man could do it and most all of them take! Not so for figs!
__________________ Rob Zone 9a/9b were the too meet. South Houston Tx Growing: Black Madeira, Smith, LSU Scott's Black, Improved Celeste, VDB, MBvs, RDB, Unknown Peach/Apricot, Salce, Malta Black, Texas BA-1, JH Adriatic, Atreano, CDDN, CDDB, CDDG, Strawberry Verte
lampo
Registered:1329071797 Posts: 2,060
Posted 1403725080
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#5
To have success you need to do it at the right timing for a given method to have healthy scions and root stock Observe absolute cleanliness insure Cambium to Cambium firm contact complete insulation of the graft from air/moisture protect the graft from direct sun light Go through many description and clips describing the various processes
Francisco
aaa
Registered:1377344072 Posts: 75
Posted 1403783041
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#6
thanks all for the replies. ok t bud and chip bud starting in summer. i have seen many videos on how to graft but none mention a specific time of year to perform a std whip and tongue graft. normally you would do stone fruit in winter during full dormancy cherimoya and white sapote into spring when strong growth and sap has started flowing figs ??????
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lampo
Registered:1329071797 Posts: 2,060
Posted 1403785768
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#7
Let me be more precise At dormancy (February for instance ) up to early spring you may go for cleft, bark, side, whip.. grafting As soon as sap starts flowing and the buttons appear about forming, it's time for T and chip-budding. In the Mediterranean, farmers commence these two budd methods in April/ May and go through August. You may go beyond that and if done properly the grafts will hold but will not shoot out new growth until next spring. Good luck Francisco