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brianm

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Reply with quote  #1 
Stick the cuttings in pro mix HP, lightly moist and cover. Very successful as i skip the dreaded transition from rooting in a bag to potting up. Also i make sure the bag doesn't cover the whole cup to allow some air in.

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dirtguy50

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Reply with quote  #2 
It looks like the baggie covers the whole cup from the pic.  Maybe you could post another pic that shows what you are referring to.  Maybe I just missed it.


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Reply with quote  #3 
Pro mix is at home depot. Harvey convinced me that the cost was worth it. Also the vent holes were on the other side of cup.
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Reply with quote  #4 
Kinda important information to leave out  if you are claiming and posting an easy way to root cuttings. IMO
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Reply with quote  #5 
Quote:
Originally Posted by figpig_66
Very easy no hassle system. What is pro mix hp


Posts like this always puzzle me.  Why would you make a statement like that when you don't even know what the components are?  Are you just trying to build your post count?

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Reply with quote  #6 
Here is the picture of the vent hole. there is another one under the bag also. i am trying to keep the soil breathing why keeping the top full humidity. I believe this helps with rot when using soil as rooting medium.

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HarveyC

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Reply with quote  #7 
Brian, have you used this enough yet to see if you're satisfied with the results?

Hope it works out well for you.

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brianm

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Reply with quote  #8 
yes i started earlier in the summer using this method. I have been trialing so many methods and this seems the best. I can get these to a one gallon size and never worry about so many steps. now i will soon be acclimating this particular tree to air when the leaves get a little bigger.
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rafaelissimmo

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Reply with quote  #9 
A couple of words of clarification: first, Pro Mix HP is just peat and perlite, there is nothing inherently antifungal about it. That does not mean it is no good, in fact it is an ideal medium, I just prefer a higher ratio of perlite in my rooting mix. I soak my cuttings in Chinosol antifungal before rooting. Expensive, but it works. Second, there is no consideration mentioned here as to rooting temperature. If you are not in the sweet spot, 78-80 degrees F, you may have a problem. Ideal temps and humidity are more important than the medium. And don't overwater. Finally, there is the question of rooting hormone, which is optional.
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brianm

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Reply with quote  #10 
the cuttings are stored over the washer and dryer on a shelf. I can fit about 50 cups of that size up there. also there is flourecent lighting and stays arround 70degrees. i am trying to use the heat from the house.
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Rewton

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Reply with quote  #11 
Thanks for posting this Brian.  Somewhere on the forum someone posted the exact proportion of peat and perlite (and anything else?) in promix hp but I was unable to find it.  Does anyone happen to know?  It doesn't seem to be available anywhere near me.

Another option for a "humidity dome" is to simply place an upside down empty cup on top of the cup with the cutting.  It should have a couple vent holes in it.

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Reply with quote  #12 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rewton
Thanks for posting this Brian.  Somewhere on the forum someone posted the exact proportion of peat and perlite (and anything else?) in promix hp but I was unable to find it.  Does anyone happen to know?  It doesn't seem to be available anywhere near me.


Found it, Pro-Mix HP:      75% - 25% (peat - perlite)

From ascpete's potting mix thread: http://figs4funforum.websitetoolbox.com/post/successful-potting-mix-recipespeat-bark-and-mineral-based-ingredients-7196708?trail=50


Rafael, they do sell Pro-Mix HP with added mycorrhizae and/or biofungicide, but not all blends have it. Out of curiousity I looked up the manufacturer's website, there are 7 formulations of ProMix HP alone. That's just silly!


Good, simple method Brian. I did pretty much the same thing last year with good results.
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Reply with quote  #13 
I am having some exciting results with tip green cuttings too. The cuttings are only a few inches long.
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rafaelissimmo

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Reply with quote  #14 
Kelby

I like the mycorrizae option but I bought a bag of my own mycorrizae, so I just add it when I up-pot to 1-gal. I am no longer using pro-mix for containers, I switched to Fafard 52 plus compost, sand, glacial rock dust and pelletized lime.

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pino

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Reply with quote  #15 
Brian
Thanks for posting this looks like an easy way of rooting figs!
I have ProMix BX (includes biofung. and Myco.) I purchased in the summer.  Adding perlite to the BX should work as well or should I add something else?

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Reply with quote  #16 
Pino

No need to add anything else. Eventually, after I know there are roots, I could add some nutrients or rooting enhancer.

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Elfarach

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Reply with quote  #17 
Quote:
Originally Posted by rafaelissimmo
Kelby I like the mycorrizae option but I bought a bag of my own mycorrizae, so I just add it when I up-pot to 1-gal. I am no longer using pro-mix for containers, I switched to Fafard 52 plus compost, sand, glacial rock dust and pelletized lime.

Rafaelissimmo, I did the same thing as far as adding the MYCOR after up-potting. I did two methods, first just pouring the MYCOR into the hole for the rooted cutting and the second, mixing it into the soil. Killed two cuttings doing it the first method and the other cuttings are doing ok. I'll never just pour in the MYCOR again, I think it was too much for them. What do you think?

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rafaelissimmo

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Reply with quote  #18 
El

Previously I had poured into the hole as in the instructions on the packet. I did not notice that caused a problem, but some cuttings did die last year, I thought it was for improper, dry environment but who knows. I will try your way this time. First, I need roots.

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Joe_Athens1945

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Reply with quote  #19 
Quote:
Originally Posted by rafaelissimmo
A couple of words of clarification: first, Pro Mix HP is just peat and perlite, there is nothing inherently antifungal about it. That does not mean it is no good, in fact it is an ideal medium, I just prefer a higher ratio of perlite in my rooting mix. I soak my cuttings in Chinosol antifungal before rooting. Expensive, but it works. Second, there is no consideration mentioned here as to rooting temperature. If you are not in the sweet spot, 78-80 degrees F, you may have a problem. Ideal temps and humidity are more important than the medium. And don't overwater. Finally, there is the question of rooting hormone, which is optional.
As always, useful quality advice from you, Rafael. Happy New Year to you, your family and your trees! :-)

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figpig_66

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Reply with quote  #20 
Brianm. Giving it ago. Watching it carfully for mold. Thanks for sharing. I think its a grate way of retaining moisture. Put a thin layer of patralium jelly on one cutting to see if it is a anti mold agent. These are spare cutting from tree in yard to see how it works in the south.... thanks brian.

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brianm

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Reply with quote  #21 
I wish you luck and happy new year.
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Reply with quote  #22 
Quote:
I did two methods, first just pouring the MYCOR into the hole for the rooted cutting and the second, mixing it into the soil. Killed two cuttings doing it the first method and the other cuttings are doing ok. I'll never just pour in the MYCOR again, I think it was too much for them. What do you think?                 


Elfarach, I've noticed too much in one spot can become moldy.  Not sure why, but I wonder if that is what happened.  I also could have had nothing to do with the Myco at all.

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Reply with quote  #23 

I also use the method that Harvey showed us. I wrap the upper, exposed part of the cutting in parafilm, and plant directly into Pro Mix HP, water well, and allow to drain. I put the pots into a plastic bin, and set on a heat mat. Once growth starts, I remove the lid and place under T5 lights. These in the photo were started 8 weeks ago. I've only watered them once, with a mild solution of Bio Thrive organic fertilizer. So far so good. IMG_3467.JPG 



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brianm

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Reply with quote  #24 
Those look great Gary. Just think next step is outdoors and that's it.
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figgary

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Reply with quote  #25 
Thanks Brian. That's what is so nice about this method... fewer steps to go wrong. Thank you again, Harvey. If I lived in a harsher climate, I would probably not start them as soon, but they can go out in March or April here. I also think that the fresher cuttings start faster for me.
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Reply with quote  #26 
Hello
I use the same method with pro mix hp mixed with some more perlite mixed in. I just eye ball the extra perlite. Also i use a large humidity bin with lid and i put the bin on top of heating mat. So far only 1 out of 50 or so cuttings have not rooted, they all root within 2 weeks.
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Reply with quote  #27 
Kso that's awesome. I have been happy with this method so far. After so many trials and errors this is my favorite.
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Reply with quote  #28 
Just a friendly update. When I see good foliage and healthy roots its time to start reducing humidity. I will cut a hole in the bag and start that way.these two pictures are of UK Fresno Chaffee Zoo fig(first)and RDB small tip cutting both have been exposed to outside air for five days now. They are doing great and will remove the bag within a few days. These will grow indoors until put outside in spring. I like the fact that I skip the rooting in a bag then into cup stage. However I have a few hundred cuttings in bags with sphagnum moss that will be rooted then potted up into cups. I like to try many methods to keep me busy lol

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figgary

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Reply with quote  #29 
Bumping Brian's post to update my results with this method. Hope you don't mind, Brian. These were started late November. The cuttings ends were dipped in parafin, and then the portion that is above soil level wrapped in parafilm. I tried to show pics of how the emerging buds just grow through it. I then planted directly in 1 gallon pot with Pro-Mix. Humidity is not an issue since the cutting cannot dry out. I put them in the bin only to keep the heat uniform. I leave the lid partly open. No mold, fungus or gnats. No transplanting. On sunny days I put them outside to harden off. This Violette de Sollies will be ready for a 5 gallon pot come April when I can leave it outside. For me this is much less hassle than I went through last year with cups and perlite, and my cuttings look much, much  stronger..IMG_3478.JPG  IMG_3479.JPG  IMG_3482.JPG  IMG_3480.JPG  IMG_3483.JPG 

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Reply with quote  #30 
Gary, that looks great! This is basically the method I use to except that I am using mini-SIPs.

It's too bad that on the day we visited you the sun wasn't shining like it is in your photos.  Still, I guess the sense of the beauty of the place.

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brianm

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Reply with quote  #31 
Looking good Gary. I really like this method for tip cuttings or green cuttings. However you are doing great with the older thicker wood. I used to use water for my special cuttings but now have confidence in this method. I just stuck a few pink Jerusalem cuttings today. Last year there would be no way I would have trusted this method.
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Reply with quote  #32 
Can't get much better than that.60 days from a cutting and it looks ready to up pot
from a gallon pot.Very nice work.


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Reply with quote  #33 
Thanks Brian and Paul. Next year, I think I'll wait a month to start, so that I'll be closer to April when they reach this size. Not all of the varieties have started this fast, but the V Sollies, It 258, and CdDame Gris have grown quickest. I also forgot to mention that I have been watering with BioThrive whenever they get a drink.
Steve, you definitely visited during the rainiest spell we've had. I hope that you get a chance to come out again. You and your wife are welcome anytime.

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Reply with quote  #34 
Hi figgary,
I've got Zone envy ...
If you want a challenge, come try that in my Zone7.
Depending on the outside weather, one gets incredible humidity drops - by outside freezing temps especially ( my observation )... A real challenge, to keep those growing - not mentioning the lack of sun light this time of the year,
so I've got to supplement with 2 "economy 20Watts lights (20W=120W)" - but it seems that I'm still missing something ... But let's keep on trying, it is fun anyway .
I have 2 shop lights that I should put in use, to see if they can help ... But for outside weather conditions, there is nothing I can do ...

Thanks to show us your progress. Your node-spacing is short and that, to me, means that you're weak on nitrogen "N" (weak like in you could supply more )... But not burning them with too much fertilizer is good already :) .
Good luck !


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Reply with quote  #35 
This is the method I'm planning to use this year.  I couldn't find any ProMix locally, so I mixed up some 40% Coco Coir & 60% Perlite.



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