lolita1234
1443208094
Posted 1451105060
· Edited
Reply with quote #1
Bagging propagation is not new to me . I have created this method for my plumeria propagation since 2007 . It will work for everything. For figs, it will be easier. Cheapest . Cleanest. Simplest. Less time consuming . No fail Need to have : Clear Plastic bag Rooting hormones (optional), any brand: Instructions : (to be continued)
newbie
1426820716
Posted 1451109575
Reply with quote #2
Nice technic. I will try this technic. But still waiting for my cutting to arrive 1st. How long usually it will rooted like that?
SuperMario1
1441853363
Posted 1451112252
Reply with quote #3
Could you give some more detail on your method please? Why is there newspaper on some? How moist is the soil? What temperature and humidity? What kind of lighting? Thanks
Galicia Negra, Violetta, Violette de Sollies, Dan_la's Black Beauty 10, Craven's Craving, Most important : YOUR FAVORITE FIG . A lot of people put emphasis on popular/exotic cultivars, which is great because it highlights some of the better fig varieties; however, I am most interested in the figs our members love regardless of pedigree.
lolita1234
1443208094
Posted 1451136928
· Edited
Reply with quote #4
Get ready ? Let's roll !Instructions: 1) Put the cuttings into a cup of water at least 6 hours ahead so they can drink to their heart's content in order to be able to endure the next several days without drinking (these are my Pronte Tresa cuttings)2) Cut off the plastic bag at the 2 bottom corners Cut off the zip thing on the top , otherwise you could not tie the bag top 3) Fill the soil without pressing down it 4) Put a cutting down into the bag of soil Note : - a) fig can root easily without any rooting hormone , but it does need some long waiting time - b) for the people who want to race with time ----> make it root faster by dipping the cutting into a rooting hormone of your choice . Anything works . However please dust away the excessive hormone powder. Too much, it will cook the cutting ! - c) for people who is allergic hehehe to chemical, you can leave the cutting in water (bottom down) , but change water every 3 days , until you see some bumps like these Very first roots (stage 3) At any stage above, you can put the cutting in the pot of soil and the plant will grow by itself . However, in winter rooting, I prefer to put the cutting in bag . Reason ? so I can go to Greece .... to look for Ponte Tresa heheheh without worrying about my cuttings at home4) When the cutting is set in the middle of the filled soil, gently press the soil around it down (not too packed) then fill more soil , leaving space to tie a rubber band around the bag top . Along with the cutting growth, you should loosen the rubber band one round at a time For easy rubber banding, you should hold the closing end and turn the bag up side down and make rounds . That way you dont hurt the cutting , and make it tight . Pull the rest of the rubber band over the whole bag to keep it in place The rubber band will close the opening so no mold will be formed during the process. Why a rubber band, and not a plastic tie ? Along with time, the cutting will grow and the main trunk will be bigger and bigger. The rubber band will expand accordingly to the size of the new cutting growth, when the plastic tie would kill the growth Put a name tag 5) To give the bag some heat, I recycle an used packaging envelope to wrap around a number of bags together 6) Without adding any water in the soil in the beginning, the heat created by that envelope will make the soil perspire . Therefore, the soil will be moist all time If you add water, the cutting will be rotten (more to come .....I am not finished yet. hehehe)
lolita1234
1443208094
Posted 1451138105
Reply with quote #5
Quote:
Originally Posted by SuperMario1
waynea
1362316304
Posted 1451140221
· Edited
Reply with quote #6
Keep it rolling Mai Mai (Lolita), very interesting, great details and more to come. Thanks for posting.
Frankallen
1371842383
Posted 1451140728
Reply with quote #7
Lolita...Thanks, so far very good Instructions!! Take your time but don't leave us hanging... ; )
Frank from Bama - Zone 7-b Alabama ...................................................."Live as if you were to die tomorrow. Learn as if you were to live forever". Mahatma Gandhi
Mario_1
1398299123
Posted 1451143615
Reply with quote #8
Very interesting
Kane
1410030129
Posted 1451145257
Reply with quote #9
Looks like a no non-sense approach. Keep the information flowing. Thanks for sharing!
lolita1234
1443208094
Posted 1451158373
· Edited
Reply with quote #10
Bag rooting techniques (continued)7) Light can slow down the rooting process, so we have to block light with newspaper or anything that light cannot go through . Both ends (top and bottom) should be open Wrap the light shield cover around a group (or individual ) of bags, then tape the whole thing to keep them in place (a) Using a toothpick to pierce 4 tiny holes for air escape when the cuttings are sweating in the plastic zip bag . This evolution creates humidity to keep the cuttings fresh at all time .and forms tiny water drops at the zip bag sides. Excesssive water will run down the bottom of the zip plastic bag and will be soaked by the carton box . So no standing water . Humidity stays constant to help the cutting get into 9) Once in a while, we can open the outside cover to observe the roots development . Here some roots are at the bottom of the bag Here some of them are on the side of the bag 10) Buds are leafing . Some are fast, some are slow depending on the variety . Every 2 days you should open the zip bag a few minutes so the cuttings get some fresh air . They need to enjoy the real world too, otherwise they would feel bored and start to drop leaves . Oh no ! should not let them do it , because every leaf coming out is a precious one . Why that dropping leaves ? What is happening ? ----> humidity is more than needed . 11) Let's take some out to look how nice they are , but please do not let them out too long because the leaves would wilt. Don't try to help by spraying some water . At this time of period, they do not need your help . Helas ! they want to go back to their niche .
BronxFigs
1333154764
Posted 1451177378
Reply with quote #11
Very interesting. Thanks for showing this technique for rooting cuttings. natural, burlap as a plastic bag substitute. When cuttings eventually grow roots you just have to plant burlap bag into the soil/mix and the roots will grow through the burlap and into the surrounding medium. Roots are never disturbed. Plant the rooted cutting on top of a buried egg for added nutrition, as the egg returns to its elemental state. (No...the egg doesn't stink....).
lolita1234
1443208094
Posted 1451209274
· Edited
Reply with quote #12
Bag rooting techniques (continue)When the cuttings start to have more leaves, you can group 4 of the previous bags into a larger zip plastic bag (3 G size) . I recycle the dry clean laundry bag . Turn it up side down to tape the small opening (used to be for hanger). Observe that I threw out the carton boxes and replace them with plastic ones, so they will be more stable. No more excessive water happen , but they have more air space for growing higher . . Put a stick of bamboo in the center of the whole thing and pull the laundry plastic bag up to the top of the bamboo stick and tie it with a rubber band . Do not forget to poke some holes (about 10 holes with a toothpick) around the plastic bag This way you can go on vacations for 2 weeks up to a month without worrying about watering the young plants, because they will grow happily by themselves being fed by the nutrients in the soil ... - You take the bag outside of the zip bag too long ----> The young leaves are still very fragile, not ready to adapt new environment yet. The newly rooting cutting needs full protection . So suddenly being exposed to the real world, the leaves are frustrated and would wilt . Bring the rooting cutting back where it belongs . With humidity in the zip bag, leaves might drop but the cutting will bud again . - You move it in/out too often or change location many times -----> leaves would drop ----> tip of main stem turn gray/black ---> is the plant going to die ? Observe to see if there is presence of roots in the bag . Yes or No ? - If Yes ----> the plant wont die . The tip stays still for a while but the plant is still alive . It does take some time to develop new growth (buds) on the different angle of the grey tip In this picture, you see 3 new buds are forming for 3 future branchesif No -----> something wrong here . Cutting might be rotten in the bottom Pull the cutting out. If the stem base is dark/black/wet, cut off that part . Take a new bag of soil, insert that plant to root it again . Else the problem is due to excessive humidity . Take a fork and poke the zip bag ONE TIME to allow more air escape . The chopsticks used in the bag is to keep the leaves not touching the zip bag. Otherwise the leaves will be mushy and drop . Mold would start on dead things In the kitchen, under the light at sink area . 2.5 G size zip back can hold a dozen (or more) of rooting bags . Found 2.5 G zip bag at Albertson's grocery store . For bigger size bag, Walmart carries Jumbo bag that can hold 100 rooting cuttings during the whole winter . To save money, simply use any bag available in your home (ie paper towel bag, tissue bag) big enough for the play
DonCentralTexas
1390420422
Posted 1451225823
Reply with quote #13
We appreciate you taking the time to share this with the fig community.
FiggyFrank
1347560723
Posted 1451229311
Reply with quote #14
Brilliant! Your knowledge and explanations are wonderful. Thank you.
waynea
1362316304
Posted 1451231040
Reply with quote #15
We have really enjoyed your photos and very descriptive procedures, thanks Mai Mai, please keep them coming.
Hortstu
1350422638
Posted 1451288372
Reply with quote #16
Great tutorial. I was doing something very similar, but lazier. You've motivated me to adopt some of your improvements.
lolita1234
1443208094
Posted 1451326763
· Edited
Reply with quote #17
Bag rooting techniques (continued) In bag rooting method you do not need to water the cuttings when they are in the zipped bag . Perspiration creates humidity (more than enough) that is why every other day you should watch to see if there is any excessive water running down the walls of the zip bag. If so, poke a few more holes to the zip bag for evaporation to ... exit (I dont find the right word yet, hehehe) . Weening time ? Be gentle with them . For them to be introduced to the real world, prep time is needed . Cut a small opening to the bag for more air to penetrate . When the cuttings show some roots, no matter if they just have a bud or few leaves, you can take them out of the zip bag. From now on, they are no longer cuttings , but young plants Wrap each bag with a piece of newspaper so light does not harm the roots , then place the young plants under a neon light (I use T12, 40 watts for a few hundred plants) . If you use 100 watts, the plants cannot handle that heat because the leaves are very fragile at that stage . Note : In my case, I prefer to leave them in the zip bag longer - until they have 6 leaves , because I do not have time to run forth and back to mist them . If I have to go out of town, I will place them in a larger bag , then adjust the height of the neon light . For the plants to grow healthy, they need 4 necessary elements : sun, wind, water and nutrients . Here we have light as sun (!), water, nutrients (in soil) , so we need wind . Without ventilation, leaves will be soon loaded with bugs underneath . So you need to have a small fan nearby as wind13) When do you take the plants out of the zip bag ? When you see the roots are fully developed Gently use a razor blade to cut the rubber band and gently slide the bottom of the bag to open it . You see the soil in the bag is very dry but the roots are healthy I use the plastic sandwich bag for this oneOnce potted, leave the new tree in a shady area , 60 degree F. Give it a good drink . Spay/mist water TO THE LEAVES ONLY once in a while and when Spring comes, let Mother Nature takes them under her wings . Feed the tree with Osmocote (grain type) , and water once a month if temperature get is over 60 degree F Under 60 F , water once every 2 months . If temperature drops down to 20 F, hurry them into garage . . Gradually bring it out in the sun when those plants become... trees (not a plant anymore ) . Let the tree grow to full force to bring you joy and happiness when you to taste their first figs (the fruit of your own labor)
LJFiggy
1448185688
Posted 1451456629
Reply with quote #18
Lolita, your rooting technique is brilliant. Thanks so much for sharing in detail, with photos accompanying. This is great help for a newbie as myself,
~ New to growing figs, I currently have tiny fig plants which are supposedly Little Ruby, Violette de Bordeaux, Desert King, and Petite Negri. I hope these were accurately labeled! Now rooting LSU Gold and Purple, Celeste, Panache, Peter's Honey, and Unknown Varieties from cuttings, thanks to generous forum members .Figs on my current wish list (along with any others recommended): Osborne Prolific, Battaglia Green, Smith, Kadota, Italian Honey, Atreano, Verte or Green Ischia, Panache, Peter's Honey, Black Madeira, Smith, Noir de Caromb, etc. ~
lolita1234
1443208094
Posted 1451493723
· Edited
Reply with quote #19
14) Ouf ! there is a plant which roots are overgrown but no leaves yet, just a tiny bud .
greenfig
1359790036
Posted 1451495692
Reply with quote #20
Mai,
lolita1234
1443208094
Posted 1451500840
· Edited
Reply with quote #21
Greenfig,
snaglpus
1244258188
Posted 1451501869
Reply with quote #22
What is the room temperature the cuttings are rooting in?
jenniferarino83
1335709464
Posted 1451508965
Reply with quote #23
Dry potting soil ehh? Interesting. I have a bunch of zipocks and disposable fig twigs (abundant cuttings). This ain't my first rodeo but I will try it. Looks easy...
lolita1234
1443208094
Posted 1451520219
· Edited
Reply with quote #24
Dennis,
ANDREASC
1427891106
Posted 1451572446
Reply with quote #25
Hello,(lets say in 3-4 weeks) i shall cover the small bags with newspaper and put the whole box closed again under the lights. i shall still aerate every 2 days, till they have 6 leaves and good roots (lets say in another 2 weeks) time at which i should be opening gradually to have them acclimatized. then out they go from the box but still under the lights. only then u mist lets say once per 2-days, until they fill the bag with roots, (lets say in another 3 weeks). then u re-pot, give water monthly and mist weekly and have them again under lights till march? whereby u put them in a shady place with good ventilation. and in april u gradually put them in the sun and water weekly?
Jodi
1443230258
Posted 1451574191
Reply with quote #26
Wow Lolita! What a labor of love. Your care for and connection to the plants is palpable. I so appreciate all the details and time you spent putting this together for us. I have to ask what do you do with all these healthy plants? I'm going to try your method today as we are leafing to Cabo for 2 weeks and I am bountiful with cuttings anxious to be trees! Blessing of abundance and peace for all in 2016. Jodi
In the book the "The Meaning of Trees" it is said the fig regulates the heart and that the true essence of Figs is...food for the soul. Daisy's IBT cuttings will be available in January/February along with a few Lampeira Parda.
Smyfigs
1443660141
Posted 1451583522
Reply with quote #27
Great technique for varius reasons; saves on soil, saves on pots, saves the roots when transplanting! I will try it. Whats a good size bag to start? Also where to buy them for a good price?
Meg-Hardiness Zone 10a
lolita1234
1443208094
Posted 1451593993
· Edited
Reply with quote #28
i intent to use transparent plastic storage boxes instead of the plastic bag... .." with the baggies without hormones etc...and use the closed box (in a dark room). i shall aerate every 2 days "once i see roots and leaves (lets say in 3-4 weeks) i shall cover the small bags with newspaper and put the whole box closed again under the lights. i shall still aerate every 2 days... ."" ... they have 6 leaves and good roots (lets say in another 2 weeks) time at which i should be opening gradually to have them acclimatized. then out they go from the box but still under the lights. only then u mist lets say once per 2-days, until they fill the bag with roots, (lets say in another 3 weeks) ...."
ANDREASC
1427891106
Posted 1451674382
Reply with quote #29
excellent
LJFiggy
1448185688
Posted 1451692026
· Edited
Reply with quote #30
I have started this method, with some modifications, on many of my cuttings. This is after they have begun showing signs of root buds and/or leaf sprouting after either being in water or sphagnum moss. As I had no large 2.5 gallon bags, I put them in a cardboard box, base wrapped in trash bag, with clear plastic wrap over the top! The local Walmart doesn't carry these large bags, either, so last night found some on Amazon. They are the 3 Gallon Ziploc Big Bag Double Zipper Large 5 Count for $6.69.
~ New to growing figs, I currently have tiny fig plants which are supposedly Little Ruby, Violette de Bordeaux, Desert King, and Petite Negri. I hope these were accurately labeled! Now rooting LSU Gold and Purple, Celeste, Panache, Peter's Honey, and Unknown Varieties from cuttings, thanks to generous forum members .Figs on my current wish list (along with any others recommended): Osborne Prolific, Battaglia Green, Smith, Kadota, Italian Honey, Atreano, Verte or Green Ischia, Panache, Peter's Honey, Black Madeira, Smith, Noir de Caromb, etc. ~
johnnyq627
1366344367
Posted 1451968208
Reply with quote #31
Lolita do you know the humidity in your room? I noticed the potting mix I got today looked a lot drier than yours does as well.
lolita1234
1443208094
Posted 1453143185
· Edited
Reply with quote #32
70 - 75 degree F.
lolita1234
1443208094
Posted 1453143412
Reply with quote #33
__________________ SE Pa, zone 6b https://www.facebook.com/offthebeatenpathnurseries
grant441
1358456015
Posted 1453166869
Reply with quote #34
I am using your bag rooting method too with great success! It is the way i will do it from now on.Good job!
lolita1234
1443208094
Posted 1453171348
Reply with quote #35
Thank you, Grant ! that method not only works but it saves you a lot of room
I use it for anything . I had hard time rooting Guava (the one with huge fruits) from cuttings . Usually people grow them by seeds, but it takes 3 years for the plant to bear fruits . Recently I bought a tree on Ebay with red pulp . I took some cuttings and amazingly they are rooting ! With plant coming from cuttings , it will have fruit within a year, same taste as the fruits of the mother tree .
kyle3728
1448341640
Posted 1453176250
Reply with quote #36
So what would be the main difference between this bag method and Jon's bag method that is posted on the Fig4fun page? His method would bury the whole cutting in the bag so that you don't have to worry about the top drying out. Have you tried that method and this is a refinement of that method in some way?
http://figs4fun.com/Rooting_Bag_New_Style.html
Wish List: UCD Black Ischia, Florea, Any Rimada figs
https://www.facebook.com/FairacreFarm
LJFiggy
1448185688
Posted 1453181081
Reply with quote #37
Quote:
Originally Posted by
lolita1234 Thank you, Grant ! that method not only works but it saves you a lot of room
I use it for anything . I had hard time rooting Guava (the one with huge fruits) from cuttings . Usually people grow them by seeds, but it takes 3 years for the plant to bear fruits . Recently I bought a tree on Ebay with red pulp . I took some cuttings and amazingly they are rooting ! With plant coming from cuttings , it will have fruit within a year, same taste as the fruits of the mother tree .
~ New to growing figs, I currently have tiny fig plants which are supposedly Little Ruby, Violette de Bordeaux, Desert King, and Petite Negri. I hope these were accurately labeled! Now rooting LSU Gold and Purple, Celeste, Panache, Peter's Honey, and Unknown Varieties from cuttings, thanks to generous forum members .Figs on my current wish list (along with any others recommended): Osborne Prolific, Battaglia Green, Smith, Kadota, Italian Honey, Atreano, Verte or Green Ischia, Panache, Peter's Honey, Black Madeira, Smith, Noir de Caromb, etc. ~
lolita1234
1443208094
Posted 1453186822
· Edited
Reply with quote #38
Quote:
Originally Posted by
kyle3728 So what would be the main difference between this bag method and Jon's bag method that is posted on the Fig4fun page? His method would bury the whole cutting in the bag so that you don't have to worry about the top drying out. Have you tried that method and this is a refinement of that method in some way?
http://figs4fun.com/Rooting_Bag_New_Style.html
lolita1234
1443208094
Posted 1453187753
Reply with quote #39
Quote:
Originally Posted by LJFiggy
LJFiggy
1448185688
Posted 1453191127
Reply with quote #40
Quote:
Originally Posted by
lolita1234 Quote:
Originally Posted by LJFiggy
LJFiggy,
I am positive that it will work with mulberry cuttings .
never say the word IMPOSSIBLE . everything in this world is possible if you are ... bold enough
~ New to growing figs, I currently have tiny fig plants which are supposedly Little Ruby, Violette de Bordeaux, Desert King, and Petite Negri. I hope these were accurately labeled! Now rooting LSU Gold and Purple, Celeste, Panache, Peter's Honey, and Unknown Varieties from cuttings, thanks to generous forum members .Figs on my current wish list (along with any others recommended): Osborne Prolific, Battaglia Green, Smith, Kadota, Italian Honey, Atreano, Verte or Green Ischia, Panache, Peter's Honey, Black Madeira, Smith, Noir de Caromb, etc. ~
lolita1234
1443208094
Posted 1453681445
· Edited
Reply with quote #41
Another pm from a member that I would like to share with the forum : "Hi Mai, Attached Images https://www.facebook.com/offthebeatenpathnurseries
lolita1234
1443208094
Posted 1453682598
· Edited
Reply with quote #42
waynea
1362316304
Posted 1453684891
Reply with quote #43
Great attitude Mai.
lolita1234
1443208094
Posted 1454119176
· Edited
Reply with quote #44
Quote:
Originally Posted by ANDREASC
Smyfigs
1443660141
Posted 1454206473
· Edited
Reply with quote #45
Mai,
Meg-Hardiness Zone 10a
leon_edmond
1188903453
Posted 1454208979
Reply with quote #46
Mai-
lolita1234
1443208094
Posted 1454210318
Reply with quote #47
Quote:
Originally Posted by leon_edmond
leon_edmond
1188903453
Posted 1454280754
Reply with quote #48
Thank you for clarifying my question Mai. Leon
shaw916
1435897899
Posted 1454309300
Reply with quote #49
Hi Mai, Thank you for sharing such a great rooting method . the potting mix I got looked the same you showed in the photo but its very dry almost no moisture .your cutting bags look moist in the photos. I might be wrong but just making sure if thats ok .
lolita1234
1443208094
Posted 1454318357
Reply with quote #50
If the big (of soil) is freshly bought from the store, the soil is moist enough to use . But if the top end of the bag is open for quite some time, then the soil is dry due to evaporation . In this case, you just spray a little bit of water to make it moist but not wet
