Grafting or rooting if you have hard to find cuttings

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paully22

Registered:1195324538
Posts: 2,719

Posted 1458042567	Reply with quote #1

Got a couple of harder to find variant cuttings from Ottawan and I am not sure whether I should root them or graft them to existing trees. I am leaning towards grafting as it is less work and I can end up with more wood as grafting needs less wood. What would be the forum expert advise ?

lampo

Registered:1329071797
Posts: 2,060

Posted 1458048501	Reply with quote #2

Paul Definitely grafting to a robust stock A good guide may be found on YouTube : -grafting fukuberry- the demos are with blueberries but, with fig stock and scion is exactly the same. good luck Francisco

pino

Registered:1383190021
Posts: 2,117

Posted 1458048963	Reply with quote #3

Its probably a toss of the coin. For a graft to work you need to do a proper graft (type depends on whether bark is slipping, size of scion/rootstock) But in IMO it depends even more on the health of the scion. When selecting scion I look for a healthy primary bud and visible secondary bud so I get 2 chances for it to take. __________________ Pino, zone 6, Niagara, JCJ Acres Wish; Peace on earth and more figs Italian 258, Galicia Negra, Luv, trade suggestions welcome.

Vladis

Registered:1390659900
Posts: 352

Posted 1458050178	Reply with quote #4

I use both methods of reproduction. 1. Do grafting. 2. The cuttings are rooted in the open field. __________________ Зона 8Б ,Туапсе, Россия.

Rewton

Registered:1291943117
Posts: 1,946

Posted 1458059874	Reply with quote #5

I have never had a graft that worked while propagation via cuttings works about 75% of the time or maybe more if they are really healthy. So for me the answer to this question would be easy. I would also worry a bit about mixing different mosaic viruses that the scion and rootstock have. For this reason, you might want to have an ungrafted plant and then take a scion from it later to try your hand at grafting. __________________ Steve MD zone 7a

binbin9

Registered:1387923330
Posts: 220

Posted 1458060785	Reply with quote #6

take a node or 2 to graft and the rest to root, best of both worlds! I did that with my P.T. and few other varieties. __________________ Renton, WA My Seattle Garden Blog \| Fig Addiction WISH LIST: Genovese Nero Rafeds \| UCR 187-25 \| Black Tuscan \| Black Triana \| Jack Lilly \| Barbillone \| St Rita \| Tauro \| Jin Ao Fen \| Lampeira Preto \| Any fig over 100grams =)

figpig_66

Registered:1416870358
Posts: 2,678

Posted 1458076757	Reply with quote #7

Grafting is a good,way to go. It took me less then two weeks to really get good at grafting. Well one type of grafting that easy for me lol. Root the rest __________________ RICHIE BONI HICKORY LOUISIANA ZONE 8B WARM HUMID WINRERS ARE VERY MILD LOW 20'S BUT WARMS RIGHT UP DURING THE DAY. SUMMER IS EXTREMELY HOT & HUMID 100 degrees 100% humidity fig tree grow like crazy but some split from rain & humidity Wish list. Col de dame blanc Col de rimada Lsu numbered figs

saxonfig

Registered:1258080612
Posts: 1,370

Posted 1458558148	Reply with quote #8

Hey Paul. You may have already made a decision on this but I'm just now seeing this thread. As long as you feel confident in your grafting abilities, my opinion/recommendation would be to graft. As long as you have the rootstock to work with that is. As Francisco mentioned, grafting onto a robust rootstock will give you your best chances. Especially if you have just a single piece of a rare cutting. As Pino mentioned, timing is important too. I recommend grafting early in the growing season. It seems to be a little different with figs though. I'd venture to say that grafting can be done on figs just about any time during a growth flush. Still, I've done most of my grafting in early spring just when my fig trees are beginning to take off. I've have very good success during this time. I recently paid a fair amount for a single rare cutting. I wouldn't dare take a chance just rooting it. If it dies on me without rooting, that's it, I'd have to buy another cutting. On the other hand, if I can get 5 grafts out of that one piece, I've just greatly increased my odds of establishing that variety in my collection. So, for me, It's an easy choice when I have a limited amount of a rare variety. As for the practice of grafting on to a cutting and then trying to root that cutting? This is a practice that makes no sense to me if you have rootstock available to graft on to. Following this method might only marginally increase your odds by grafting on to a large cutting that may or may not have extra energy reserves. Still, not worth the risk to me as long as I have a root base to graft to. By the way. My preferred methods of grafting have been the cleft graft and the saddle graft. Both have worked quite well for me. I personally, have had no success with chip or T budding. I know those have worked for others though. Hope this helps. __________________ Fig Well And Prosper! Bill - SW KY. Zone 6b. 36.5N I'm fruitnut on ebay.

Vladis

Registered:1390659900
Posts: 352

Posted 1458565497	Reply with quote #9

Прививка Panachee на мужских инжира. Корневище и отпрыск свободной от вируса мозаики. __________________ Зона 8Б ,Туапсе, Россия.

cyberfarmer

Registered:1293483474
Posts: 544

Posted 1458571159	Reply with quote #10

I'm going to jump on this thread because I have a very similar question. I have a tree in the ground that is a vigorous grower with an extra shoot coming out of the root ball. The shoot is about 3/4" diameter and 3' tall. I also have a Black Madeira in a pot that is about 1/2" diameter and 18" tall. Both trees have completely leafed out over the past week or two. Both the shoot on the in-ground tree and the shoot on the potted B.M. grew last fall and have hardened off over the winter. Would it be possible at this time of year to just snip off a cutting from the top of the BM and whip & tongue graft it onto the in-ground tree? __________________ Paul the Fig Tree Destroyer in Fallbrook, CA (Zone 10A )

Bluemalibu

Registered:1448153498
Posts: 230

Posted 1458573436	Reply with quote #11

Quote: Originally Posted by cyberfarmer Would it be possible at this time of year to just snip off a cutting from the top of the BM and whip & tongue graft it onto the in-ground tree? Yes Paul... perfect time of year. This is a B/M whip and tongue grafted onto a Calif/Improved Brn Tky: __________________ Ebay: Bluemalibu NorCal, 9B - Fig Heaven. No fog, no snow; just lots of sunshine!

rayrose

Registered:1453996431
Posts: 76

Posted 1458581908	Reply with quote #12

Doesn't the scion wood have to be dormant, in order for the graft to take? I've never had a successful graft, using scion wood that has broken dormancy. __________________ Ray zone 8 Columbia, SC

cyberfarmer

Registered:1293483474
Posts: 544

Posted 1458585461	Reply with quote #13

Quote: Originally Posted by rayrose Doesn't the scion wood have to be dormant, in order for the graft to take? I've never had a successful graft, using scion wood that has broken dormancy. That's what I should have asked more specifically. The Black Madeira I want to take scion from is fully leafed out. There is already an inch of new growing tip that I will probably have to discard along with most of the abundant leaves on the tip. I was thinking I will need to first clip off the new green growth, then take a cutting that includes just two nodes above the "tongue". I guess I would only leave a couple leaves on the scion, if any, and would cut them in half. Or is this really better done with dormant scion wood? __________________ Paul the Fig Tree Destroyer in Fallbrook, CA (Zone 10A )

Bluemalibu

Registered:1448153498
Posts: 230

Posted 1458587561	Reply with quote #14

Yes and yes... ...dormant scions are indeed preferred, but I wouldn't hesitate to use what I had on-hand. You can put the small B/M back into dormancy, in a cooler; or do a green-wood graft. http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/propagation/greenwood/index.html __________________ Ebay: Bluemalibu NorCal, 9B - Fig Heaven. No fog, no snow; just lots of sunshine!

Timo

Registered:1439198835
Posts: 117

Posted 1458587886	Reply with quote #15

If your BM isn't dormant anymore, I would rather try an airlayer.

jdsfrance

Registered:1376988473
Posts: 2,591

Posted 1458598219	Reply with quote #16

Hi cyberfarmerr, I would try an approach graft . You wound both branches so that they match. You put both trees close together and tie them wounded branches together. I have never tried it, but it seems to add odds to the success of your graft since both the scion and the tree are still connected to their own roots. Once the branches heal, you just cut the scion to leave it glued to the rootstock . I may try it with plums or peartrees ... since that's what I have at hand (both rootstock and scion on roots ). Good luck ! __________________ ------------------------ Climate from -25°C to + 35°C Only cold hardy figtrees can make it here

kkk2210

Registered:1420862008
Posts: 474

Posted 1458603532	Reply with quote #17

Definately grafting IMO . Wish I had know this before. Brown turkey, Nero 600 all good rootstocks . Check my pictures in my thread "Cuttings Update". __________________ Vinny Bognor Regis, United Kingdom Wish List : Callara, De La Rio,Cul Noir, Calvy, LSU Red, I-258, Maltese Beauty, Preto, FMV Infected Ischia Black UCD. My Ebay: http://www.ebay.co.uk/myb/Summary?MyEbay&gbh=1

paully22

Registered:1195324538
Posts: 2,719

Posted 1458605012	Reply with quote #18

Thanks for the feedbacks. Grafting it will be. I have plenty of wood to practise as I had trimmed 11 trees aggressively.

rayrose

Registered:1453996431
Posts: 76

Posted 1458658222	Reply with quote #19

Cyber, it's better done with dormant scion wood. You should have taken the scion wood way before it broke dormancy and refrigerated it, until you're ready to graft. You can try to graft it, but I doubt you'll be successful. You'll have better success in rooting it. __________________ Ray zone 8 Columbia, SC

cyberfarmer

Registered:1293483474
Posts: 544

Posted 1458659655	Reply with quote #20

Quote: Originally Posted by rayrose Cyber, it's better done with dormant scion wood. You should have taken the scion wood way before it broke dormancy and refrigerated it, until you're ready to graft. You can try to graft it, but I doubt you'll be successful. You'll have better success in rooting it. OK, that was what I thought, but figs seem to be so forgiving, I thought I'd ask anyway. It might be better to do approach grafts or air layers in my case, but I don't want to get off topic. I just wanted to know if I could do what original poster was asking, but just with fresh cuttings. I actually do have some dormant cuttings in cold storage, so I'll use those for grafting. __________________ Paul the Fig Tree Destroyer in Fallbrook, CA (Zone 10A )

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