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acient3

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Posted Reply with quote  #1 
I found aphids on my fig trees this morning ,Can anyone tell me what I can use to get rid of them? Thank you Holly
agrarian

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Posted Reply with quote  #2 
Malathion or permethrin will make short work of them. I prefer permethrin because it doesn't have the terrible odor of malathion,and it has the added benefit of killing the ants that are farming the aphids for their honeydew.
VeryNew2Figs

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Posted Reply with quote  #3 
If you don't have a lot of trees and have the time, try spraying the leaves with water to physically remove the aphids.  If I'm remembering right, because they are soft-bodied, when the water hits them it tears their mouths, which are sucking the sap from the plant, away from their bodies.  I'm fairly sure that's for aphids, but at the very least, the water will wash them from the plant.  You may have to use your hands to get any stubborn ones that still hand around after the water spray. 

Agrarian:  Are the ants doing any harm to the plants?
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Cheryl
Chicago, Zone 6a (That's what they say, but it still feels like 5)
Growing:  Hardy Chicago, Black Mission, Brunswick, Kadota, Ischia Green, Desert King, Osborne Prolific (slow but steady), Malta Black, Violette de Bordeaux, Texas Everbearing, Beall, White Adriatic, Nolo Pink Eyed Lady.
Rooting: Ronde de Bordeaux, Celeste, Nero 600 m, Violetta Bayernfeing, Marseilles Black VS, Celeste.
SCfigFanatic

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Posted Reply with quote  #4 
 I have a lot of trees.
When aphids were a bad problem with young trees, I used to spray malithion
in early spring as leaves were forming but before figs had formed.
This would control them for months. I never spray after figs have formed.
You would not believe the negative feed back I got when I said what I used to control bugs.
Now people are realizing it's not such a bad idea after all.
It simply works.  Ask those who complain to show you a safer way that actually works,
They get quiet.
Now I have found pyola spray concentrate. It is a much safer to use than malathion
and works even better with my situation. If you spray before blossoms open, it helps reduce bee
killing and I do have a bee hive so I try to protect my bees.
Simply washing aphids off will only assure you they will just return. There is nothing
to stop them without using some kind of chemical.
Sucks, but that is how they feed.


Doug
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Smyfigs

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Posted Reply with quote  #5 
Hello, Acient3, I always go the route of non-chemical pesticide since everything I grow I give to my family, I always try for the best and most natural way to solve pest issues.  I have mentioned it on many posts but I prefer to use worm tea.  It really is a great bug deterrent.  And, it has the added benefit that it gives your plants nutrients and a big boost for growth!  Here's a website I found with some good detail and it looks like they sell it too... in case you want to read it.  Good luck!

Worm Tea
http://yelmworms.com/compost-tea/page3.htm
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cis4elk

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Posted Reply with quote  #6 
If you are dealing with potted trees and/or not a lot of tree, then a bug wand works pretty good on aphids and spider mites. But like Doug said, you have to repeat the process(which on a hot day is rather refreshing anyhow).  You can buy bug wands(bug blaster) or make them yourself rather inexpensively. Go to a lawn garden center and buy a ball type water control valve attachment for the garden hose, a 18-36" piece of plastic tubing threaded on both ends(what's used for the sprinkler heads that stick up well above ground level to water over-top of beds), an adjustable 0-360 degree spray head to put on the end(like what is on pop-up sprinklers), and Teflon tape if you don't have any. I like the 18" size because it's more easy to maneuver in and around the leaves on my potted plants. The ability to adjust the spray radius is very nice when you only want to spay up from underneath the leaves and then go to 180 or 360 and blast everywhere.
You will get soaked but it works.
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Chivas

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Posted Reply with quote  #7 
Insecticidal soap works well, hit the in early morning or evening when sun isnt strong or you can burn leaves.  If you use it too much it will weaken the cuticle of the leaf.
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Charlie

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Posted Reply with quote  #8 
Lady bugs.
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agrarian

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Posted Reply with quote  #9 

VeryNew2Figs,

  The ants we have are mostly fire ants,and they not only farm aphids for their honeydew,which is harmful enough,they attack any figs that are starting to ripen,they break down the soil mix when they colonize it,and they sting any human who disturbs them. The only benefit I've derived from them was once they fed on ambrosia beetle larvae on one of my trees.

SCfigFanatic,

 Well said. Seems that some are offended when chemicals are mentioned,but sometimes a man's gotta do what a man's gotta do.
acient3

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Posted Reply with quote  #10 
Not only do I have aphids, which thank you everyone ,I ordered ladybug and I use the water with soap but now my leaves have discolored circle here are some photos, Can anyone help with this problem 2016 virus_0002.jpg  2016 virus_0001.jpg 
SCfigFanatic

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Posted Reply with quote  #11 
LOL, the benefit of safers soap.
It removes the leaves completely on its own.

Doug
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VeryNew2Figs

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Posted Reply with quote  #12 
My personal philosophy about chemicals is I can buy chemical laden food stuffs from the grocery store, but in my own (granted very small) garden I choose not to use them.  If I had a huge garden or was growing commercially, I might have a different thought process...maybe.  I respect everybody's right to choose how they grow.

Agrarian:  Thanks for the info about the ants.  I've only read about fire ants, and nothing I've read makes me want to champion their cause.
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Cheryl
Chicago, Zone 6a (That's what they say, but it still feels like 5)
Growing:  Hardy Chicago, Black Mission, Brunswick, Kadota, Ischia Green, Desert King, Osborne Prolific (slow but steady), Malta Black, Violette de Bordeaux, Texas Everbearing, Beall, White Adriatic, Nolo Pink Eyed Lady.
Rooting: Ronde de Bordeaux, Celeste, Nero 600 m, Violetta Bayernfeing, Marseilles Black VS, Celeste.
adoresfigs45

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Posted Reply with quote  #13 
i just bought some lady bugs to release inside the pool cage which is where all my young figs are    this should be interesting
adoresfigs45

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Posted Reply with quote  #14 
Fire ants are a horrendous species  They swarm on you when you blunder into their nest and their bites are agonizing and the aftermath lasts forever.   Destroy any mound you may find and do not let them spread.  Chemicals are the only answer for them.
SCfigFanatic

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Posted Reply with quote  #15 
 Done very carefully, I apply 2 tablespoons of gas on a fire ant mound.
The gas fumes saturate the mound and when lit will burn for 5 minutes.
This kills queens, eggs, and workers/biters.
It also does not leach chemicals into the ground that figs drink from.
Now, be very careful.
Do not carry the gas jug around or use a sealed container to hold the gas.
I put a dab of gas in a old paint can top and walk it to the mound.
Pour it on top and around the edge and lite with a rolled up newspaper
so you don't get too close to where fumes can collect.
Done carefully this works best and cheapest for me.
Of course normal precautions with gas is important.

Doug
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smatthew

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Posted Reply with quote  #16 
Quote:
Originally Posted by chucklikestofish
~if you want to go organic 2 tbs. of non scented regular dawn dish soap per gallon of water.,this is what i use it works for me~


There are plenty of organic pesticidal soaps out there - but dawn isn't one of them.
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adoresfigs45

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Posted Reply with quote  #17 
hmm never heard of the gas thing.  I thought their mounds were pretty deep but I am no bug expert.   I did spray lighter fluid on a web caterpiller nest in a tree a while back and whoofed it away.   of course  hose was handy
SCfigFanatic

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Posted Reply with quote  #18 
Im no bug expert, I just used the common sense approach that gas dumped in the center of
the mound flows straight down then evaporates.
It is those fumes that fill the cavities then ignite and burn the mound.
All though not 100 percent every time, it does usually only take one burning off the mound
and it settles right back down after a good rain. They do not just move and rebuild.
When I said 2 tablespoons it's probably more like a quarter full on a paint can cap of gas.
Try it.

Doug
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EDoukas

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Posted Reply with quote  #19 
Neem tea!! I use it for everything and when I make it from neam meal/cake, I don't have to deal with oils so I can spray it all over my plants. It works as a systemic when you water with it and also a foliar spray. Either way or both, it will knock the aphids and many other pests right out. This video focuses on fungus gnats but you can do the same thing (except for the top-dressing -- not necessary) for the aphids. It also acts as a light fertilizer! I couldn't recommend this more.  That's why I had to throw it up on Youtube.  I'll let the video explain the rest:
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