MStanleyross
Registered:1451670149 Posts: 108
Posted 1470274100
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#1
When does a cutting becomes a fig tree? How many leaves should it have? When do you stop watering it like a cutting and water it like a tree? Just wondering, thanks.
__________________ Wish List: Sodus Scilian, Dall' Osso, Kathleen Black, I-258, Malta Black, Ischia Black, Persian White, Native de Argentile, Lampeira Preta, Sofeno Petro and any LSU or any duplicates you may have. Zone 7 East Tn.
TheASTrader
Registered:1462409587 Posts: 43
Posted 1470307790
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#2
Good questions. This deserves a bump.
__________________ USDA Zone 10a & 8b Wish List: Bebera Branca, Ischia Black and as many else I can fit.
FiggyFrank
Registered:1347560723 Posts: 2,713
Posted 1470316727
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#3
I'll provide personal experience, but keep in mind there isn't a solid rule book. Everyone does it differently.I started cuttings in March of this year. Transferred from 16oz cup to 1 gallon pot sometime in May and kept sheltered from rain. Never really soaked the pot, but added roughly 8oz of water at a time. I would water based on how heavy the pot felt. I didn't want it to be heavy, but I wanted it to be damp, if that makes sense. Depending on how hot it was, I could be adding water every day or every 3 days. Around early July, growth slowed down a little. With some reservations, I would carefully massage the pot to loosen the roots from the wall of the pot and rotate the pot nearly upside down while securing the the cutting from the base, as close to the soil line as possible, then gently wiggle the entire root ball out of the pot to examine the roots. DON'T DO THIS IF THE POTTING MIX IS STILL VERY LOOSE. Mine was compact enough to do it. Do not attempt this with a recently-watered pot. It will be too heavy and there is a greater chance of the soil ball falling apart. If the roots were abundant, I would transfer to a bigger pot. Again, ensure the root ball comes out as a whole. You do NOT want the roots to move from their current position in the root ball, otherwise recovery will take longer. After just a few days, I saw healthy, thick, explosive growth. I'm still careful with watering, but after about 2 weeks, it is ready for normal watering, meaning you can simply drown it. This is assuming you have normal upper 80s temps. Below is an example. I dug this up from an archive, but I may have up-potted these 2-3 weeks after I took this picture, moving to a 3 or 5 gallon pot. Some people leave it for the rest of the year, which is fine, but you'll get faster growth moving it into at least a 3 gallon pot.
__________________ Frank zone 7a - VA
jdsfrance
Registered:1376988473 Posts: 2,591
Posted 1470317077
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#4
Hi, I could say : after the first dormancy, generally for me. For me it is more about root-mass than leaf-count. As for watering, a tree needs more water than a cutting. The best way to know, is by letting the pot go (a bit/enough) dry in between waterings. If you find yourself watering a liter (1/4gal) every other day ... you probably have a tree in front of you . If your cutting is in an half gallon pot (2 liters pot), and the pot is full of roots, that you can slip the tree out of the pot and all the dirt stays together because of the roots ... you have a tree. If you have one root running in the pot, that you have more dirt than roots, you still have a cutting ( that can die quit quickly is you're rude with her) . Of course, hitting a bush and getting stems with half-gallon of roots attached ... is called getting a tree too in my books.
__________________ ------------------------
Climate from -25°C to + 35°C
Only cold hardy figtrees can make it here
rmulhero
Registered:1429223986 Posts: 263
Posted 1470317528
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#5
I like Franks explanation but I just look at the soil moisture and water when its dry. When your rooting cuttings or transplanting into a larger container you need to not over water but once the plant becomes established within its new container your fine to water when it becomes dry. You know when it becomes established when it starts growing vigorously. If your often over water your plants you can get a soil moisture meter or just use a bamboo skewer to check the moister in the pot. In my experience with figs, the roots grow fast and the plant should establish itself quickly if given adequate light.
__________________ Becky, zone 5 Growing: Hardy Chicago, VdB, Dessert King, Celeste, Green Ischia, Marseilles VS, Kathleen's Black, Red Sicilian, Adriatic JH, Violetta bayerfeinge, New Brunswick, Magnolia and Italian Honey. Wishlist: Sicilian Black JR, Petite Negra, Sweet George, Lattarula, Sals Corleone (Gene), Vasilika sika, Galicia negra, Dalmatie and any cold hardy fig.
MStanleyross
Registered:1451670149 Posts: 108
Posted 1470358584
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#6
Very helpful guidelines to go by. Thanks for sharing this valuable information.
__________________ Wish List: Sodus Scilian, Dall' Osso, Kathleen Black, I-258, Malta Black, Ischia Black, Persian White, Native de Argentile, Lampeira Preta, Sofeno Petro and any LSU or any duplicates you may have. Zone 7 East Tn.
DevIsgro
Registered:1420826837 Posts: 637
Posted 1470402949
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#7
Great advice guys!
__________________ Currently growing 50-60 varieties, this season's cuttings dependant. Hopefully I'll get to taste a few more this year...