TheASTrader
Registered:1462409587 Posts: 43
Posted 1477440990
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#1
I was considering using a cheap garment wrack like the one below and hanging a shop light from it on chains to use as a grow room setup for cuttings--perhaps a plastic sheet to keep temp regulated in my mild winter climate. I'd love to see how you all are set up. Feel free to share pics. Thanks!
__________________ USDA Zone 10a & 8b Wish List: Bebera Branca, Ischia Black and as many else I can fit.
cjmach1973
Registered:1426471634 Posts: 30
Posted 1477442416
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#2
I use 72x48x18 shelving with LED bulbs both indoors in a spare room for delicate baby plants, and the same shelving in a 8x8x7' plastic and wood room in the back of my garage for less delicate plants. I was able to get the shelving for about 25 dollars less on ebay than at Lowes or H Depot. Sometimes you can get lucky and find shelving on craigslist.
KK
Registered:1352993559 Posts: 412
Posted 1477442486
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#3
Shop lights (fluorescents) need to be within inches from the leaf canopy.
DomGardens
Registered:1475212155 Posts: 57
Posted 1477444026
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#4
Great thread topic, I was just about to research this, brought in 6 pepper plants for the freeze here in NJ.
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Porfirio
Registered:1437660802 Posts: 103
Posted 1477447475
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#5
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Originally Posted by KK Shop lights (fluorescents) need to be within inches from the leaf canopy.
Yes usually 1 inch up
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TheASTrader
Registered:1462409587 Posts: 43
Posted 1477448366
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#6
The interesting thing about that garment wrack is that the top bar moves all the way down to the darker part of the vertical bars. Easy height adjustment. I'm thinking that $12 wrack and 2 of these $9 LED flood lights? Duct tape some reflective $1 Mylar blankets together and you've got a party--a fig rooting party. :)https://www.amazon.com/Waterproof-Outdoor-Lights-Halogen-Equivalent/dp/B008XZAQDU/ref=sr_1_20?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1477438842&sr=1-20&keywords=led+shop+light
__________________ USDA Zone 10a & 8b Wish List: Bebera Branca, Ischia Black and as many else I can fit.
Woodville
Registered:1476319530 Posts: 73
Posted 1477488173
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#7
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Originally Posted by DomGardens Great thread topic, I was just about to research this, brought in 6 pepper plants for the freeze here in NJ.
Look into T-5's they are great for growing indoors. I'm going to try L E D's this winter also.
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pverdes3
Registered:1470833006 Posts: 67
Posted 1477491156
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#8
My wife loves IKEA so 99% of our stuff comes from them. My winter setup consists of an IKEA IVAR shelf combination that holds my seedlings / cuttings on long trays for easy watering and old IKEA desk lamps from the kids with full spectrum LED grow lights . The entire shelf is in front of a window and I have of 2 shelves placed at proper distance for propagation and experiments. I also ordered some heat pads from ebay and banggood.com to put under the clear rooting cups for bottom heat. Hope this helps.-g
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ADelmanto
Registered:1359774201 Posts: 911
tinyfish
Registered:1472353452 Posts: 223
Posted 1477609484
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#10
Here is my grow room in action. At the top of the picture is the 800w equivalent Cob Led light in the red housing. The light spectrum is missing alot of the green and yellow which is why its a redish light.
EB18702
Registered:1448986849 Posts: 51
Posted 1477653138
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#11
i would recommend you guys into this DIY light thing to get a light meter and compare your project light output vs something you could probably just have bought with better light output. those clown lights(red blue) are really supplemental lights. the top guys in indoor lighting are moving away from that idea. research has come out debunking that whole plants need only red blue light. the red blue light thing came out of a study nasa did trying to grow plants in space. a few years ago i spent months researching indoor lighting. i also have knowledge in electronics so this helped me see through a lot of marketing. i have shop lights which do work for young starts if placed within inches. after a few weeks the shop lights weren't cutting it. i have moved up to hps and MH. really glad i did. the light meter doesn't lie!! if your really set on using LED lights, i suggest checking out spectrum kings youtube page. you can learn a lot there.
__________________ Growing: DK, VdB, Brown Turkey, Hardy Chicago, Black Mission, Verte, Negronne, Natalina BI, U. Italian Yellow BI , U. Yellow Greek AD, U. South Plainfield, U. Orangeburg U. Carini RG, Rooting: Prosciutto, Naples Dark , Azores Dark, Columbaro Nero, De La Tira, I376, Des Roig Manyo , Greek Church U. Wishlist: ANY PEACH OR PLUM SCION PLEASE PM ME. Smith , any in ground figs for zone 6. Erik zone 6A northeast Pa
ADelmanto
Registered:1359774201 Posts: 911
Posted 1477662984
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#12
EB18702. Is there a light meter you recommend? What is the optimum level for figs? Is the level different for other plants like vegetable seeds?
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SCfigFanatic
Registered:1450004954 Posts: 469
Posted 1477668077
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#13
EB18702, your about 15 years behind technology on indoor growing and what is the best alternative for artificial lighting. You also need to read the whole link provided in the led light build. That will teach you the difference in what your using compared to LED's and compared to what your spending in electric bills. Then you can learn what spectrum the plants really use. Doug
__________________ South Carolina zone 7b-8 Part time member since 10/1/2012
bullet08
Registered:1284496248 Posts: 6,920
Posted 1477672110
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#14
i just keep mine by the south facing window in a largd bin with a cover. did that for 4 yrs and success rate wasn't too bad. main problem was the moisture control and what to do once the cuttings have enough roots for 1 gal. i keep my house above 70 in winter so temp wasn't an issue. no fancy lights and things.
__________________ Pete Durham, NC Zone 7b "don't talk to me about naval tradition. It's nothing but rum, sodomy and the lash." - sir winston churchill "the problem with socialism is that eventually you run out of other people's money." - the baroness thatcher ***** all my figs have FMV/FMD, in case you're wondering. ***** ***** and... i don't sell things. what little i have will be posted here in winter for first come first serve base to be shared. no, i'm not a socialist...*****
SCfigFanatic
Registered:1450004954 Posts: 469
Posted 1477672822
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#15
theAStrader,, you are only getting 10 watts of LED power. Not really much it will help. You need more wattage. Doug
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tinyfish
Registered:1472353452 Posts: 223
Posted 1477704544
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#16
My plants have only been under the led a short while but they seem to like it. The plants have a nice colour to the leaves and are starting to make figs. Here is one picture I took of the figlet to compare to later.
chucklikestofish
Registered:1391263141 Posts: 1,316
Posted 1477746223
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#17
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Originally Posted by
tinyfish My plants have only been under the led a short while but they seem to like it. The plants have a nice colour to the leaves and are starting to make figs. Here is one picture I took of the figlet to compare to later.
~wow that looks awesome ~
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TheASTrader
Registered:1462409587 Posts: 43
Posted 1477892566
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#18
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Originally Posted by SCfigFanatic theAStrader,, you are only getting 10 watts of LED power. Not really much it will help. You need more wattage. Doug
Thanks for the input! How much wattage should I be looking at?
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SCfigFanatic
Registered:1450004954 Posts: 469
Posted 1477930679
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#19
100 watts is a start. kk showed a 100 watt led for $39.99 I would go that route. Doug
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EB18702
Registered:1448986849 Posts: 51
Posted 1478103111
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#20
RE: Is there a light meter you recommend? What is the optimum level for figs? Is the level different for other plants like vegetable seeds? With the light meter i would suggest to start with any cheaper one. for $40 you can measure basic LUX and fc (foot candles). i have this one https://www.amazon.com/Dr-Meter-Digital-Illuminance-Light-LX1330B/dp/B005A0ETXY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1478100698&sr=8-1&keywords=light+meter believe it or not these measurements alone will teach you a ton. just getting this part correct will give you the most results compared to trying to change light spectrum's. light spectrum meters are more costly. you will notice less benefit from playing around with spectrum. most people dont get the basic steps correct and are worried about light spectrums. once you get your meter take some measurements of your grow room, house, and dont forget from the sun. try to mimic the suns output lol. seedlings and small plants dont need the intense light of full sun. this is why we have success using shop lights. once plants get bigger or start fruiting they require a lot more intense light. you dont have to get all scientific. get the basics right and you will have success. place your lights proper distance, provide enough light lux, proper temperature, and water, ect. to give a specific answer on how much light, i haven't tested that. but i do know if shop lights are placed under 3 inches I dont get stretching. if I place the lights about 1 foot away i get stretching. once seedlings veggies mature past 8-10 inches of growth, i tend to get stretching regardless of light distance using shop lights. noticed about the same with fig cuttings after 2 months. re:EB18702, your about 15 years behind technology on indoor growing. hps/mh have been used for years with great results. i trust in this proven technology. i dont believe im 15 years behind. there are very few company's producing led lights that can match what the old mh/hps lights can do. i only use them a few weeks a year so the less efficient lights dont bother me. i benefit from the extra heat they produce in the winter time. comparing hps vs led can lead to a whole debate. my views follow what this company is doing. no clown lights. https://www.spectrumkingled.com/ . these guys have a youtube channel showing meter measurements of some of the top brands in the indoor grow light industry
. anyone wanting to learn a bit about leds and different companies marketing scams check them out. they grow (other plants) and show results! this is one of the few company showing TESTED results using there lights vs others. i think the white full spectrum leds are the way to go but its a lot of work or money acquiring a good setup. i spent about 150 bucks for an adjustable 300-450-600 watt ballast and lighting setup. this will do everything i want and more. from what i remember testing at 300watts i get a 4x4 area producing the same as what a full row of crammed shop light(probably 10 fixtures of 20 bulbs). i do have some numbers but i think there packed away with my lights. on camera you cannot tell really how bright these lights are, even 300 watt from a mh. you will need some type of grow room, sun glasses.
__________________ Growing: DK, VdB, Brown Turkey, Hardy Chicago, Black Mission, Verte, Negronne, Natalina BI, U. Italian Yellow BI , U. Yellow Greek AD, U. South Plainfield, U. Orangeburg U. Carini RG, Rooting: Prosciutto, Naples Dark , Azores Dark, Columbaro Nero, De La Tira, I376, Des Roig Manyo , Greek Church U. Wishlist: ANY PEACH OR PLUM SCION PLEASE PM ME. Smith , any in ground figs for zone 6. Erik zone 6A northeast Pa
SCfigFanatic
Registered:1450004954 Posts: 469
Posted 1478104558
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#21
"hps/mh have been used for years with great results" True they work. So why are they being replaced with LED lighting? Operating cost. The growth rate does not change if the plant is getting the light it needs. You pay $40-60 a month to run a 300 watt mh 14 hours a day. I pay $5-6 per month per 100 watts of LED lighting. Slight difference. Doug
__________________ South Carolina zone 7b-8 Part time member since 10/1/2012
EB18702
Registered:1448986849 Posts: 51
Posted 1478105986
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#22
what are you paying a kilowatt. that seems way off. your using 1000 watts for your numbers, remember use 300 watts thats 1/3 a kilowatt. 1 kilowatt is 1000 watts an hour.so divide your number by more than 3 and your right. $13-$20 . not to mention i know i am getting a lot larger footprint. so depending if your rooting 1 plant or a few dozen. i dont have a problem with that because paying to heat a room to 80 plus degrees would cost me way more. so the heat by-product benefits me greatly. depending on your needs hps/mh is great. i agree operating costs over time are more. not that much for me over the time im using them. .10 cents a kilowatt 16 hours a day x 60 days there are plenty of companys ppl still using/ making hps/mh. problem with leds there are a ton of new company in the market because the leds are produced very cheap in china and they can selll them for a huge markup in the usa. the pot industry is filled with shady companies buying products for pennies putting them in a bottle and jacking the price. that industry is driving the indoor growing products.
__________________ Growing: DK, VdB, Brown Turkey, Hardy Chicago, Black Mission, Verte, Negronne, Natalina BI, U. Italian Yellow BI , U. Yellow Greek AD, U. South Plainfield, U. Orangeburg U. Carini RG, Rooting: Prosciutto, Naples Dark , Azores Dark, Columbaro Nero, De La Tira, I376, Des Roig Manyo , Greek Church U. Wishlist: ANY PEACH OR PLUM SCION PLEASE PM ME. Smith , any in ground figs for zone 6. Erik zone 6A northeast Pa
SCfigFanatic
Registered:1450004954 Posts: 469
Posted 1478108041
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#23
I have used a 400 watt MH for years, I know what it cost to operate. I know what I used to pay, just like I know now what it is costing me. Just because I have LED lighting is not the reason I feel the need to defend it. Just because you have MH running at 4000k spectrum does not make it the best choice either. Personally I do not care what you use. I will never go back to MH, especially beings I sold if after building a few LED'S. Its all personal choice, if your stuck with MH, use it. Doug
__________________ South Carolina zone 7b-8 Part time member since 10/1/2012
tinyfish
Registered:1472353452 Posts: 223
Posted 1478897564
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#24
Quote:
Originally Posted by
tinyfish My plants have only been under the led a short while but they seem to like it. The plants have a nice colour to the leaves and are starting to make figs. Here is one picture I took of the figlet to compare to later.
Here is the progress with the Black Maderia.
These are the other plants in my grow room
SCfigFanatic
Registered:1450004954 Posts: 469
Posted 1478899878
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#25
I just put all my figs and dragon fruit in a closet that now has 2- 100 watt warm white LED's. I also have 120 watts of the red/blue led grow lights. The closet stays between 78-80 degrees with the lighting and heat being moved with fans on the led lights. This is my best artificial lighting set up yet. My plants will see no sun until March. I have been taking a picture every 3 days to track progress. It will be fun to watch the plants thrive under LED lighting through out the winter. Doug
__________________ South Carolina zone 7b-8 Part time member since 10/1/2012
tinyfish
Registered:1472353452 Posts: 223
Posted 1478901788
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#26
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Originally Posted by SCfigFanatic I just put all my figs and dragon fruit in a closet that now has 2- 100 watt warm white LED's. I also have 120 watts of the red/blue led grow lights. The closet stays between 78-80 degrees with the lighting and heat being moved with fans on the led lights. This is my best artificial lighting set up yet. My plants will see no sun until March. I have been taking a picture every 3 days to track progress. It will be fun to watch the plants thrive under LED lighting through out the winter. Doug
Sounds like the plants will love the set up.
SCfigFanatic
Registered:1450004954 Posts: 469
Posted 1478904289
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#27
It's amusing at least. here are a few pictures.IMG_20161111_163409 by Doug B , on FlickrIMG_20161111_163403 by Doug B , on Flickr My camera shows a blue hue, not visible to the eye. Looking in the closet all you can see are the white color light. Weird. Doug
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tinyfish
Registered:1472353452 Posts: 223
Posted 1478908796
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#28
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Originally Posted by SCfigFanatic It's amusing at least. here are a few pictures. My camera shows a blue hue, not visible to the eye. Looking in the closet all you can see are the white color light. Weird. Doug
Our plants will get a good head start for next year.
SCfigFanatic
Registered:1450004954 Posts: 469
Posted 1478913476
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#29
oh, yes. These same trees will try to produce next summer. They will get the entire spring, summer and fall to establish a good root system in the ground. It gets them off to a good start. Doug
__________________ South Carolina zone 7b-8 Part time member since 10/1/2012
SCfigFanatic
Registered:1450004954 Posts: 469
Posted 1479231998
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#30
IMG_20161115_122613 by Doug B , on Flickr the same "was" dormant figsIMG_20161115_122639 by Doug B , on Flickr Plumeria with flower buds starting under a warm white led 100 watt.IMG_20161115_122629 by Doug B , on FlickrIMG_20161115_122649 by Doug B , on Flickr Dragon fruit shoots. I love my LED lights. just cheap Chinese led's still running after 4 years on the one fixture with 2- 50 watt led's. Colored led's are 5 years old. Good enough, especially for all I had to pay for the leds. And they work just like day 1. Doug
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tinyfish
Registered:1472353452 Posts: 223
Posted 1479255040
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#31
Very nice Doug.
One of my figs that was dormant is now starting to leaf out in my grow room so I pinched the top hoping for some side branches. I hope that was a good move.
SCfigFanatic
Registered:1450004954 Posts: 469
Posted 1479257208
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#32
Personally I like to let it all grow, then pinch the tops for side branching after it is full of leaves.. I'm sure you will be fine. It may stunt growth temporally. Good work. It is fun, if nothing else. Doug
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tinyfish
Registered:1472353452 Posts: 223
Posted 1479261862
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#33
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Originally Posted by SCfigFanatic Personally I like to let it all grow, then pinch the tops for side branching after it is full of leaves.. I'm sure you will be fine. It may stunt growth temporally. Good work. It is fun, if nothing else. Doug
Opps...I guess I just learned something, good thing spring is still a long ways away.