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helike13

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Reply with quote  #1 
If you have big logs which are difficult to root...
Then you can follow this grafting system..

For rootstocks I used seedlings since they have taproots. If your area is too arid or too wet this will help.






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VeryNew2Figs

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Reply with quote  #2 
Interesting.  Different.  Can you explain a little the rationale for the method?  Why use the log as opposed to grafting the scion onto the seedling root?
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Chicago, Zone 6a (That's what they say, but it still feels like 5)
Growing:
  Hardy Chicago, Black Mission,
Brunswick, Kadota, Ischia Green, Desert King, Osborne Prolific (slow but steady), Malta Black, Violette de Bordeaux, Texas Everbearing, Beall, White Adriatic, Nolo Pink Eyed Lady.
Rooting: Ronde de Bordeaux, Celeste, Nero 600 m, Violetta Bayernfeing, Marseilles Black VS, Celeste.
helike13

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Reply with quote  #3 
I had to remove an old plant and these logs are slow growing if grown on its own roots. So I decided to play around with them.
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Baracska [P], Tihany [P], Gustissimo® Peretta [P], Dark Portuguese Unk [P], Zidi (UCD) [S], UK Purple [C], Black Bursa [S], Roscoff [PC], Capri UNK [C], Black Malta [P], Panachee Tiger [P], Feng Chan Huang [P], Iraqi (Palmata Hybrid) [P], Ice Crystal [S], Ficus racemosa, De la Reina (MP) [P], Doree Goutte d'Or [P]
jdsfrance

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Reply with quote  #4 
Hi,
Keep us posted.
I can't figure now how that can help, but let's see what the outcome is.
Grafting several rootstocks, you have more chances of ending with roots attached to the log.
But what if several get successfully grafted ?
Will the young roots be able to feed the log ?
Will the log heal ?
Will it start rotting on one side while rooting on the other ?

Good luck !

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angelad

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Reply with quote  #5 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ThaiFig
I posted about a similar method last year on this thread https://figs4funforum.websitetoolbox.com/post/air-layers-go-big-or-go-home-7501013 .  The idea of multiple taproots supporting a tree is the same, but in the example I gave the rootstock was being grafted before the tree log was cut.  It's mainly beneficial for in ground figs.  Potted figs don't need taproots.  If you plant the stem deep enough, it will also send out native roots eventually.  But with grafted roots, it will obviously have a big head start on cuttings which have no roots.  Taproots can go down deeper and grow quicker to find subterranean water sources, and can support a tree against higher wind loads.


I just read your original thread and found it very interesting.  This forum is great for learning new things.

Angela

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VeryNew2Figs

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Reply with quote  #6 
I remember I think it was Grasa that also used roots grafted onto scions to jump start the rooting process. I just so happen to have roots from a plant I dug up and refrigerated. Do you think they would work?
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Cheryl
Chicago, Zone 6a (That's what they say, but it still feels like 5)
Growing:
  Hardy Chicago, Black Mission,
Brunswick, Kadota, Ischia Green, Desert King, Osborne Prolific (slow but steady), Malta Black, Violette de Bordeaux, Texas Everbearing, Beall, White Adriatic, Nolo Pink Eyed Lady.
Rooting: Ronde de Bordeaux, Celeste, Nero 600 m, Violetta Bayernfeing, Marseilles Black VS, Celeste.
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