Is there a way to control internodal distances on the new growth of fig trees?  I have noticed the spacing between leaves is sometimes very far apart, and even stranger to me is that sometimes a thinner, older, section of a branch will suddenly start to increase in diameter towards the tip where new growth has started.

Is this a nutritional response, a watering response, or, just genetics?  Can internodal distances be controlled by fertilizer ratios?  Pinching out the terminal buds on branches doesn't control internodal distances.  Is there a growing technique that will?

Just asking....

Frank

Far from an expert, but...

Thanks Dom...

It seems like figs have a tendency for this long  internodal spacing, and also the habit of only breaking buds just below a new cut, but hardly ever back far enough for a nicley branched tree.  All new twigs seem to be concentrated at the very ends of the branches, and I find it difficult to get older dormant buds to break on wood that's
 two-three years old.

My guess that too much nitrogen would generate long, weak growth, but I only use  diluted, 3:1:2 "Foliage Pro".  The trees are fully dormant from December to March/April.

I think genetics is more the reason.  Every fig tree that I see growing has long internodal spacing on most branches, so I don't even know if it can be controlled.  My guess is that pruning back would be the only way to check growth, and to shape a tree....and then hope for buds to break where they are needed.

Frank

It all has to do with growth rate, which is affected by weather, esp. temperature, and fertilizer. Faster growth leads to greater spacing, and slower growth (typically in the early and late portions of the season) are closer together. As the plant is breaking dormancy, the first 2-3 nodes are usually close, and as it slows down and heads towards dormancy, the same short spacing occurs. Not use you can affect it other than by adjusting fertilizer in the middle portion of the season. Even in summer, if you have some really cold/cool weather, it will slow down and head towards dormancy, and then accelerate again when it warms up.

Joe Morle ( figtrees.net ) once told me the reason why he uses 20/20/20 combined with the mix he puts together ( recipe provided in his website ) is to get the plant to grow a bit slow, therefore making the nodes much closer and compact. And therefore producing more fruit.

He mentioned the 3/1/2 ratio usually found in Miracle Gro and other popular brands makes the plant grow much quicker causing the branches to be skinnier and the nodes being far apart and causing less fruit production.

This is why I have stuck with 20/20/20.

Sometimes I use Miracle Gro only as a back up when I run out and can't find the 20/20/20.

I don't know specifically about figs, but internode length is often a response to light - things grown in lower light intensities often have longer, 'leggy' internodes, and those grown in high light often have very short internodes.

As to the buds higher on a branch breaking and growing first, that's a hormonal response and also gives the plant a better chance of growing its leaves in more intense light for better growth. The more light falling on the leaves, the more photosynthesis, the more ps, the more carbs produced for subsequent growth.

Without 'positioning' their leaves in adequate light, most plants don't grow as well so their hormonal systems are geared to 'getting' them adequate light they need - be it via increasing internode length or having only the top, higher buds breaking to produce leaves.

And of course things such as genetics, environment (heat, moisture, wind, etc) and adequate mineral nutrition (soil, fertilizer) play roles too.

Rafed:

Interesting comments centered around the differing N-P-K ratios, especially the Joe Morle method and why he uses 20-20-20.

I think that this is going to be another observation that has no real answer, but it's nice to read all the different speculations.

Thanks,
Frank

Gina is right about low light conditions, but doubt that affects most trees, which are outdoors, unless they are grown in intense shade, which isn't good for figs, anyway.

What Gina is refering to is called etiolation and is a common problem with plants not getting enough light, typically house plants and most usually succulents. I've also seen it with young fig starts that were kept in low light indoors. 

I understood Gina's point, just didn't think it probably applied to older plants, which were probably outdoors, and seemed to be the point of the question. I definitely get the "leggy" growth with some cuttings in the greenhouse that are in the darker corner, but don't see that on outdoor plants, unless they are in extreme shade, which is not a good growing condition for fig trees, anyway.

My Celeste in the back yard has always grown with very widely-spaced nodes and it's in full sun for most of the day.  The one out front has different spacing in its nodes.  It gets sun part of the day and it tries to grow tall to be able to get more sun more of the day.

Would the tree out back slow down if I took a sharp spade and root-pruned it all around its enclosure?

noss