Diagrams and pictures of Tree form and Bush form pruning in the Japanese Style for maximum container fig production.
I've posted links to the attached pruning diagrams in several Topics, but had not posted pictures. This is to demonstrate how simple the procedure can be. The 1 gallon plants are all being trained as single stems, they are all less than 1 year old (7 to 9 months), and will be up potted to 5 gallon buckets. All the 5 gallon plants were started last spring.
Basic Tree form pruning diagram...
 

Basic Bush form pruning diagram...


1 year old Conadria at Step 2, it was purchased from EL as a rooted cutting (4 inch pot) in June 2012
 

1 year old LSUGold at Step 2...
 

This is what happens when you pinch a branch as opposed to prune. The top of this plant will be air layered for a fully formed container tree, the bottom will be planted in ground and trained as a stepover espalier
 



   
<edit> Lessons Learned 2013 season...
Step 1. Establishing a single, straight main trunk is important for the uninterrupted flow of nutrients to the scaffold limbs and fruiting branches, you'll be surprised by the increased growth in Step 2. Pinch all figs and side branches that form on a rooted cutting less than six months old.
Step 2. The main scaffold limbs have to be spaced far enough apart vertically on the Main trunk for future increase in caliper size, which means that they need to be several inches apart or 2 to 3 nodes separation.
Step 3. The secondary scaffold branches also have to be separated by 8 inches (2 or more nodes) for branch caliper increase and for the growth of future fruiting branches.
Step 4. The fruiting branches are pruned back yearly to 2 one year old buds (nodes) for the next seasons fruiting branches. Only one bud is allowed to grow into a fruiting branch, usually the less dominant, the other is removed.
Finally the tree can be renewed after several years by pruning back to the main trunk and starting over, or just air layering a large branch, and starting over.
   .

Great post, I have been wanting to do this, and I just started this year so I'm behind where you are at but do you have any tips for getting them to grow in the direction you want, sometimes I have to tie them one direction with a stake to have them go where I want them.

Chivas,
Thanks.
Stake them! Its up to you to train them properly : )

The only tip that I have is to tie the new cutting to a stake, grow as a single trunk and remove any side branches that develop. The single main trunk will get to a larger caliper size much sooner.

Once the new branches have started to lignify, I will train them. "Radiating" from the main trunk, at 45 degree angles. The same way that apple tree branches are trained with stakes and braces.

Here's a picture from Bill's Figs in NJ which shows a few 3 year old trees that have been pruned similarly. Bill Muzychko wrote
[QUOTE]I have over 100 fig trees. Each of my mature trees (I mean 4 years old or older) have between 200 and 300 figs on them during a growing season.[/QUOTE]

Figs are one of the few fruit trees that can be "trained" into whatever you desire the final plant to look like.  Single-stem, standard tree forms, multi-stem bushes, espalier, etc.... easy as pie!  However...it is a work in progress if starting from scratch.  An added bonus: figs will sprout on older wood from dormant buds, when pruned hard...and then, will set fruit on new wood.  So after a severe chop, you still can have figs if your season is long enough to ripen the late forming figs.

Learn, and master some basic pruning techniques that are shown in the above diagrams.  Rub out all buds that will send a branch growing into the wrong/undesired directions.  Need a branch to grow into a certain position?  Go to Home Depot and buy some plastic covered #12 - #14 copper wire, and wrap the branch with this wire, like the Bonsai-growers do.  Then -if the branch is thin enough- bend the wire-wrapped branch into a new, position, and leave it alone for a season.  The wood will take a new set, and when the wire is removed the branch will stay in its new position.  I do it all the time....but I do it on new, or, easily bent branches.  If you try this technique on old wood, you will crack the branch!  I even use Nylon twine to tie branches into different, "better",  positions.  Bonsai books are loaded with these basic training techniques, and are adaptable for fig tree culture.

Once the basic framework of branches has been established, all you need to do is rub out unwanted buds to maintain the shape.  All my trees look like the above containerized trees, but only picture all the branches growing out from the top of a 4-5 ft. main-stem.  None of my trees are taller than 6-7 ft.  Harvesting figs is just easier when trees are kept shorter, and the sun can reach all the figs for earlier ripening.

Have fun.  It's easy.


Frank

i'll have to look into this this yr. been pruning my tress to what i thought was a good idea and they are not very good.

Frank,... Thanks for Posting. My reason for starting this topic was to visually demonstrate how easy it is to develop the main "scaffold" branches. By using the Figs genetic traits, major limb training is not really necessary. The pictured plants have developed branches in the required locations without any work on my part. The extra branches and buds will be pinched (rubbed out) if they are very small, and the larger ones will be removed and rooted or air layered. The branches will be trained into their final positions using simple stakes, braces (to widen branch / trunk angles) and plant ties. I will document the progress in this Topic.
If the trunk is 4-5 feet there are less branches for fig production if the over all height of the tree is kept to 6-7 feet. Even the 16 inch trunk is taller than is really required for container planting. The listed dimensions are only a guide line, on two of the pictured 5 gallon plants there will be 4 main scaffold branches not 3.

Pete,... Thanks for commenting. It's relatively easy to train fig trees if you start early, and follow thru with the minimal required pruning and pinching. I think it isn't done more because most don't want to destroy producing branches (figs), but in the long run (2-3 years) the tree will be more productive (Look at the picture in post #3 of 3 year old trees...), the only losses are usually in the 1st year production.

You are right Pete.  This is a good tutorial showing how to select and isolate main branch structure, and then, the training of a fig tree.  Pictures speak volumes.  It's also true that just simply rubbing out unwanted buds will give you a beautifully trained tree, but these techniques need to be studied to bring desired results.  It ain't rocket science, and it's easily learned.

Folks.... clip, rub, bend, tie....take control of your trees.  Those developing whips, shown above, will become very respectable trees within a few years.

Good subject, Pete.


Frank

very informative, thanx for posting. i have several trees in ground here in zone 6 illinois some of which require winter protection. i also have some that are in pots (first year at this point) as i dont know how the will do. to name a few VdB, albique petete, and an unknown havasu purple.

in ground planted this year are osborne prolific, MvsB, RdB, and Sal's G along with another hardy chicago. these are planted in ground in a hedge as i have been told they are cold hardy. i will still protect the ones im not sure about. but i know there is no problems with the hardy chicago. my HC has been unprotected for five winters and is doing awsome. the other i have read should be about as hardy. but i dont want to lose any of them.

Dave

Dave,
Thanks

Update: 7/5/2013
Current progress of the plants pictured in the Opening Post.
Conadria...Rice sized figs at every leaf node and branches starting to harden.
Green Ischia TC...No figs visible bumps, may be figs or branches.
KrmkDark...Marble sized to rice sized figs at every leaf node.
LSU Gold... Rice sized figs at every leaf node, branch caliper has doubled!
White Marsailles...Rice sized figs at every leaf node on larger caliper branches.
   

The younger leaves are a bit pale due to the amount of rain and lack of sunshine over the past 2 weeks. Hopefully we will have a few days of sunshine to get them growing again.

Note the White Marseilles has 2 main trunks, I did not get around to separating (bare rooting) them before they started to leaf out, so I decided to leave it until fall dormancy.
 

Great post. Thanks!

Jeff,
Thanks.

Update 8/3/13
Current progress of the plants pictured in the OP. Plus a picture of an improved Celeste with figs at almost every leaf node, half are at the stagnant stage. Picture of a LSU (Scotts) Black with rice grain sized figs.
   

    

pete, i've memorized your technique and will use it for all potted figs. but, what do i do if i want an inground shade tree? i was  thinking of crowding 2 trees at about 8' apart and hoping i get a canopy to protect me from the horrid new mexico sun. fig production is not an issue.

so, do i just wait til the tree is 5-6' tall and then proceed as i would if it was 16'' tall? also, is there a rule about the necessary angle of branches from the trunk? perfectly horizontal branches would form a better canopy, but would they be in danger of breaking?

thanks for this great thread.

Susie,
Thanks, but the technique has been used for centuries.

Yes, you can get a taller in ground tree if you stake the plant, remove most lower side branches, and maintain a single apical stem  until 1 foot past your desired trunk height (also keep in mind that the trunk diameter and height will increase with age). The branch to trunk angle should be about 45 degrees.

Pictures from LSU Field Day... by "Chapman"




This is all based on your Zone. If you have freezing weather in winter, you may not be able to grow in a tree form without some protection for the young tree.

Good Luck

oops. we do get below 0 temps here. i could protect a little tree but certainly not a big tree. i guess i'll need to find some other tree for shade..

thanks for all your help.

Susie,
The trees may require protection in the early years, but usually do not require it once they have gained some size, at least in Zone 7. The pictured trees have not been protected in several years.

oops, my reply didn't post. if i can get a tree as pretty as yours, i'd be more than happy to supply winter protection for a few years.

due to your kind advice, i'm sure gonna try.

thanks again,

pete, my teeny celeste splits into 2 trunks an inch from the ground, at an angle of 10-15 degrees. is this a problem? must i remove one trunk? the plant is too weak for,surgery right now.

Suzie...when I have a tree that splits into two trunks (similar to your Celeste), I stake both trunks with light bamboo and tie tape just to keep them from being broken off accidentally (simply by brushing past them)...as they grow older these branches become thicker and stronger and in many cases I remove the supports...however in 2011 we had what we refer to in N.J. as the Halloween snow storm...many of the trees had not gone dormant and were still in full leaf...needless to say that the 6" of heavy, wet snow that fell that day crushed many of the trees because each leaf held a certain amount of snow which accumulated to a very heavy load on each branch...we had a five year old fig tree in the back yard that was flattened right to the ground (my wife said it looked like a broken spider)...fortunately the limbs were flexible enough that they popped right back again after the snow was removed...so if you get any unexpected snow storms out where you live, then you might need to take some added precautions.

thank you vince. it's good to know i don't have to remove a trunk.

Susie,
In my observations, if you train to a single main trunk for the first season you will get a larger caliper main trunk, and when you prune (remove) the top the second season, you will get much larger branches and growth. All the 1 year old plants pictured are 1 inch or larger caliper at the soil line. Similar plants that have been growing as multi branched, have a soil line caliper of 1/2  to 3/4 inch and are only 3 feet tall in their second season.
Also, in my Zone, fig trees are usually pot grown for at least 1 season to gain root mass and size before planting in ground.
 

Vince,
Pruning and training is done to produce a final desired shape as quickly and easily as possible. If that shape can be achieved without the extra work of pruning, you can count me in : )

so, i should remove 1 stem? if i do that, can i root a green stem?

Susie,
Depending on the size (not too small), you can air layer. Last year I was able to air layer large branches and separate them in 5 weeks from start.

On a few small plants that had two main branches, I buried the junction below soil line to form two main rooted trunks that were separated after they went dormant. The White Marseilles (below) leafed out before it could be separated


You can also train one branch as dominant by tying it to a vertical stake and allowing the second branch to become a "limb". The limb can be air layered for a second tree.



Although I tried several different methods, the best growth was achieved with a single main stem for the initial growing season.

i'd like to try that, pete. how big does the trunk have to be? the weaker trunk is 8'' long and has only one leaf.

i've never tried an air layer and this would be a good training exercise .

what would happen if i bury the plant in another inch of potting mix? would roots form that way?

Hi Pete, thanks  so much for the diagram. This will come very handy next spring, when I move the fig plants from 1 gallon to 5 gallon buckets.

Susie,
If the plant is that small, I would just train (stake) the dominant branch as the main (vertical) trunk and leave the smaller as a side branch, until the plant has put on more root mass and size.




Elizabeth,
You're welcome. Glad I could help.

What do I do if my main stem on my young fig broke off? Train a n center? Let it branch out from the ground. It doesn't look as if it is going to branch well.

Hello Leah,
Welcome to the forum community.

I don't fully understand the question, but if you broke off the only growing main stem and the roots are healthy, the plant will produce one or more new shoots, one can be trained as a main stem, it also doesn't matter where it originates (above or below soil line). You can stake and train it to gain apical dominance to form the new main trunk.
 

The Petite Negri pictured in post #25 and below started this growing season as a 7-8 inch high stub. I accidentally broke off the top half of the plant when I dropped a 5 gallon container on it during dormancy. I staked and trained the new shoot that developed, the plant is now a 4 1/2 foot tall whip, ready to be pruned for step 2 (I plan to air layer the top 3 feet).

pete, this remains one of the most valuable threads on the site.

One thing I remember hearing many years ago while learning pruning techniques:

In Step 1 above, cut the main trunk about 6" longer than the desired height (in the diagram, cut at 22-24".  The tree will put out two sets of branches (see Post #11 "Conadria EL").  The higher set (above the desired height) will be at too shallow of the desired angle (45ish degrees) causing it to be weaker.  The lower set will branch out closer to the desired angle.  Once both sets are growing, remove the top of the tree to just above the highest desired scaffold branch.

James,
The Conadria may not be the best example to use to indicate desired angles due to the deformed main trunk, which was due to a deformed rooted cutting. I'm currently air layering off several branches to train new trees in the spring.

I had not come across any similar information, Thanks. I will observe the next group to be pruned.

The desired angles can be trained by tying the green flexible branches to stakes that are in the desired location, before they lignify and harden. If the angle is too narrow, the branch is pulled down, if too wide, they are tied to stakes in the correct up position. Once the wood lignifies and increases in diameter and strength the ties and stakes are removed.

Hi Pete, When is the best time to air layer? Is there a rule of thumb ....when to or when not to air layer? Thanks..

Pete, that is one of the things I like about growing in Airpots. I can pass twine through the root pruning holes to tie limbs where I want them. In my case it is more to supplement the stakes due to wind more than training the tree. Ann, air-layers tend to be more successful when the tree is in growth mode. For me (central Texas) that is now. For you, it is when the buds start to break in the spring. It is also important to consider the weather conditions when the layers come off the tree. I'm not saying it can't be done at other times, rather your chance of success increases.

James.. Thank you..

Ann,
I start my air layers late in the year to allow them to go dormant, I had very good success last year with this method, but its not the norm. Usually air layers are started during the most active growing periods. There are several topics that can be found by using the Forum Search function and "air layering" Search in: "Subject only". Several Topics on air layering procedure and best timing will be the results. You're Welcome.

James,
I use 4 and 5 foot bamboo stakes, they are strong enough and last several seasons. Though they are only necessary for one season at each training step. Your string method actually demonstrates how easy it can be to train a fig tree.

Ann,

I did a couple of air layers in June of last year and after 6 weeks, the roots had filled up the bag.  Nothing went wrong.

I certainly enjoyed reading the links given and your kind input.. Thank you both , Pete and Frank . 

Update: January 2014 / Lessons learned

After casually pruning and observing the "Japanese Tree form pruning technique" I have come to a better understanding of the procedure and some answers to "Why" specific dimensions were listed on the original document.


Step 1. Establishing a single, straight main trunk is important for the uninterrupted flow of nutrients to the scaffold limbs and fruiting branches, you'll be surprised by the increased growth in Step 2. Pinch all figs and side branches that form on a rooted cutting less than six months old.

Step 2. The main scaffold limbs have to be spaced far enough apart vertically on the Main trunk for future increase in caliper size, which means that they need to be several inches apart or 2 to 3 nodes separation.

Step 3. The secondary scaffold branches also have to be separated by 8 inches (2 or more nodes) for branch caliper increase and for the growth of future fruiting branches. Note the fruiting branches in the attached picture... 2 months growth.
 
Step 4. The fruiting branches are pruned back yearly to 2 one year old buds (nodes) for the next seasons fruiting branches. Only one bud is allowed to grow into a fruiting branch, usually the less dominant, the other is removed.

Pete and others - so what should I do with my LSU Purple pictured below?  This fig has one main trunk and multiple smaller shoots growing from the soil line.  Do I trim all these off?  I feel like it would be a waste to get rid of this growth. 

 

M5allen,
You have to decide the desired final shape and size of the tree, and prune accordingly. The tree will always perform best when grown initially as a single stem plant. IMO, the pruning diagram and directions would still apply to this plant. For a bush form the main trunk is cut or air layered at ~ 6" and a few of the sucker pruned or layered, for a tree form it is cut higher or air layered and all the suckers should be pruned or layered. Good luck.
   

Is this a tissue cultured LSU Purple? I've observed that tissue cultured fig plants tend to produce lots of suckers. Thanks.

Thanks Pete.  I have no idea about the source of the plant, it was given to me by someone local. 

So when should I do this pruning?  Most people prune when dormant, right?  Should I let this plant grow like this for this growing season and then prune when dormant or should I do it now? 

M5allen,
You're welcome.
Since its still early in your season you should prune now...
You should get good growth and be able to harvest figs if the tree is given proper culture (nutrients and water). Just prune to get your final shape, with the initial goal of 3 or more main scaffold branches. The excess vegetative growth (suckers and excess branches) in a young plant only reduces branch and trunk caliper size and decreases fig production.

<Edit> Yes, pruning is usually done at the begining or the end of the dormant period. At the beginning (end of growing season) if you are looking to harvest cuttings and at the end (start of growing season) to remove dead wood and to induce branching by removing the dominant apical tips.
Good Luck.

[QUOTE=ascpete]Is this a tissue cultured LSU Purple? I've observed that tissue cultured fig plants tend to produce lots of suckers. [/QUOTE]
I've noticed this, too.  TC figs seem to be slow to fruit and fast to sucker.  It's especially pronounced when they're given an unlimited amount of water (I used aquaponics, but I imagine it would be similar in hydroponic or SWC/SIP setups).  I got dozens of suckers on each of the 3 plants I tried that way (LSU Purple, Green Ischia, Black Mission).  I pruned a bunch off, but still left probably a dozen apiece on each, yielding overgrown bushy forms.

I think in the future I'll aim for tree forms, at least on the ones I'll be able to shelter in greenhouses.  I want to grow a big ol' trunk like what Angelo Jr. has in Bass's thread on Italian growers in Pennsylvania:

Hi m5allen,
What is the target form for that tree?
For me, I would remove some suckers with attached roots - I would leave 3 stems including the big one - so 2 smalls to be left.
The big one I would cut it where there is a small branch already.
The rooted suckers would be new trees right away .
I would fertilize that tree - I don't know hers history but she looks like lacking fertilizer IMO.
Because you're in Zone10, I would put the tree in ground .

Jds - I am going for the bush form as Pete instructed.  Why do recommend leaving 1 small sucker?  I was planning on removing them all.  Why do you say the tree is lacking fertilizer?  I just put some 10-10-10 granular down a little over a week ago.  This plant is just coming out of dormancy and I actually thought that it looks quite vigorous. 

I would love to plant in the ground, but I am renting, so I am relegated to growing in containers for now. 

Thanks.

For me, I would rather have fig "trees" look a tree with a trunk that is 1-2 feet tall.

Pruning to Bush Form:
Step 1. Establish a single, straight main trunk...for the uninterrupted flow of nutrients to the scaffold limbs and fruiting branches.remove all side branches and figs that form on a rooted cutting less than six months old. Prune the main trunk @ 6" when the trunk caliper is 1" or larger.

Step 2. The main scaffold limbs have to be spaced far enough apart vertically on the Main trunk for future increase in caliper size, which means that they need to be 1 node apart. Select 3 - 4 scaffold branches and train at 45 - 60 degree angles to main trunk. Prune at 40" at the beginning of the growing season to remove apical dominance and induce branching.

Step 3. The secondary scaffold branches that are selected and allowed to grow have to be separated by 8" (2 or more nodes) for branch caliper increase and for the growth of future fruiting branches, which are also spaced 8" apart. The main scaffold branches are lengthened by 16" and the apical tips are pruned to induce branching on the extensions, fruiting branches are then allowed to develop 8" apart.

Step 4. The fruiting branches are pruned back yearly to 2 one year old buds (nodes) for the next seasons fruiting branches. The fruiting branches are located at 8" intervals along the secondary scaffold branches. at the fruiting branches Only one bud is allowed to grow the other is removed.

Here is a picture of a 1-1/2 year old Fig tree pruned in the Bush Form. All visible growth is 1 season old.

Pete - this obviously does not work for breba-only varieties; for those I think you have to do some thinning out to encourage renewal growth rather than pruning back to the same point each year. 

For a variety that you want to harvest both a breba and a main crop, what would you do differently?

Ed,
You're correct that pruning to the "Japanese" method doesn't work as well for Breba only (San Pedro type) figs, but the limbs can be pruned later in the season after the breba crops have been harvested, or 1/2 of the tree can be pruned yearly. Of course this would only work if the trees are grown in a zone that doesn't have very cold winters or where the stored potted plants are not exposed to below freezing conditions for extended periods, which would damage the dormant breba crop.

For varieties that produce both breba and main crop, this pruning method produces a slightly earlier and more abundant main crop. The yearly pruning can also be delayed until later in spring after breba production, but IMO, only a few cultivars produce enough quality brebas to warrant the extra winterization needed to protect the fruiting branches in colder zones.

<edit> I will be testing the late spring pruning technique with my Desert King plants this year. Hopefully I will be able to report results next spring.

I took a pruning class a few years ago and the guy told us a technique for getting a branch to sprout where you want it. He said it would work on almost any kind of tree.

What you do is make a cut just above a node where you want a branch to sprout. By stopping the sap flow from going on up it floods the node with sap and that gets it to put out a branch. Makes sense, if you cut a limb off that stops the sap flow and the nodes just below it sprout new limbs. He said it even works on 4 or 5 year old growth. I have confirmed this inadvertently. I bumped the trunk of an apple tree with my loader and knocked a chunk of bark off. the trunk was about 5 inches in diameter, at least 5 yrs. old with thick bark that you couldn't see nodes on, yet it promptly put out a limb right under the damaged bark.

He said you can't just make one cut with a sharp knife or it can heal right back up. You have to make two cuts close together so that you take out a thin sliver of bark. make the cuts a little wider than the node and a quarter to half inch above it.

I haven't tried it on figs yet, but I thought I'd throw the idea out there. it should be a handy tool if you're shaping young trees.

Greysmith,
Thanks for posting. and Welcome to the Forum Community.
You actually create a notch above a node to keep the auxins (plant hormones) from flowing down. The auxins stop bud growth and keeps the branch apex dominant (Apical Dominance). That is why the entire end of the growing branches are "pruned" in the pruning diagrams, to promote bud break along the entire limb. The unwanted buds are pinched or rubbed out when they are small to get the 8" dimensions between vertical fruit bearing branches. Notching is a common procedure with apple trees, but rarely mentioned with figs.