Its about time for me to move to the larger and final home for some of my fig trees. I have settled on 22.5” diameter x 19” high pots (fleet farms item# 93985).  Selected on a combination of aesthetics (the wife) and Bill Muzychkos post.  

I plan to set them up exactly as in: http://figs4fun.com/bills_figs.html

My main question is should I selectivly remove perennial liginified roots, instead of just the exterior of the rootball? My bonsai experience tells me this is a common strategy and can be better for the health of the tree. Is this necessary for Fig trees?

Frank-

Yes on both assumptions.  Do the root-pruning work just as buds show some green, but before fig trees start breaking buds.  A root-hook, and, tree saw will help.

Frank

What about heavily pruned in ground trees?  Like the Japanese step over or other espalier style pruning.  Do these trees require or benefit from root trimming?

I have a question for Frank (Chevy Case Frank): What are perennial lignified roots? How can I tell them apart when you have a compacted mass of roots in a container situation? Thanks Rafael

These are the large woody roots, thay start to encircle the container and form tough “J” shapes. They start to serve mainly for anchoring the tree but diminish in abilty to absorb water/nutrients. They crowd out the feeder roots. You will need to carefully open up the rootball with a small hook of some sort with a outward raking motion. 

You mainly want feeder roots which are the smaller soft delicate fiberous roots. These function for nutrient absorption.

Thank you Frank will keep an eye out, I will be getting a bonsai hook at Bronx Frank's suggestion. Thank you Rafael

If you are completely bare-rooting the tree, selective pruning is much easier. Also, depending on the variety, age of tree, size of container, life of the growing mix, etc. can be pushed to every 2-4 years. Even when other root-pruning methods are employed, I would recommend a periodic bare-rooting of trees. For smaller trees (less than five gallons), I prefer using chopsticks to remove the growing mix and scissors or small bypass pruners to cut the roots. Trees planted in ground do not need root-pruning since the roots have "unlimited" space to expand. There is room for both the anchoring roots and the feeder roots. This is not usually the case in containers.

How does this process play out when using a sawzall as some members do?

[QUOTE=james] Trees planted in ground do not need root-pruning since the roots have "unlimited" space to expand. There is room for both the anchoring roots and the feeder roots. This is not usually the case in containers.[/QUOTE]

Thank you, there are many whom say that they do.  Does this include heavily pruned trees?

I root prune heavily branch pruned in ground trees that I am training for bonsai. I am not sure if its for root “training” for the bonsai style (im guessing it is) or the health of the tree. 

newnandawg- I think saws and shovels are a common method. I was just curious if others have found selective root pruning to be worth the effort.