I wish I could help you. Cherimoya is one of my favorite fruits.

 if you seal the wound, it should grow  again, with more side branches.  Just protect it!

[QUOTE=rafaelissimmo]I wish I could help you. Cherimoya is one of my favorite fruits. [/QUOTE]

I think they are fantastic. I'm very upset about this. I was looking forward to that fruit.

I think I have found my own answer in The Grafter's Handbook:

 

The water bottle will sustain the severed head until it bonds with the base tree.

[QUOTE=Grasa] if you seal the wound, it should grow  again, with more side branches.  Just protect it![/QUOTE]

Do you think it would be better to just seal it and leave it instead of trying to graft the top back on? 

I don't know how to protect my trees from my wife. This is not the first accident.

hi c/farmer
cherimoyas definatetly do not strick from cuttings.
why two trees in one hole?  i would dig up the broken one
and replant it,
your best bet would be to use a standard whip and tounge, which is very
succesful on cherimoya , and graft it back on the rootstock.
im going to graft about 30 of them soon.

[QUOTE=aaa]hi c/farmer
cherimoyas definatetly do not strick from cuttings.
why two trees in one hole?  i would dig up the broken one
and replant it,
your best bet would be to use a standard whip and tounge, which is very
succesful on cherimoya , and graft it back on the rootstock.
im going to graft about 30 of them soon.[/QUOTE]

Thanks for the response aaa. I did two trees in one hole to help pollination and to fit more trees into less space. Like this: http://www.davewilson.com/home-gardens/backyard-orchard-culture

As for the graft, I like the idea of the whip and tongue because it leaves a very tidy connection compared to an approach graft. I like the idea of the bottle graft since it supplies the scion with a water source, but not as crazy about the approach graft connection. If I go with a standard whip and tongue, I will have a 1 foot base supporting a two foot scion. Do you think I should trim off any side branches or leaves from the scion? Cut the leaves in half? I'm just worried about the proportions of the scion to the host.

[QUOTE=aaa]hi c/farmer
cherimoyas definatetly do not strick from cuttings.
why two trees in one hole?  i would dig up the broken one
and replant it,
your best bet would be to use a standard whip and tounge, which is very
succesful on cherimoya , and graft it back on the rootstock.
im going to graft about 30 of them soon.[/QUOTE]


I agree completely

you only need a few buds on the scion so cutting it shorter will be a benifit.
remove all leaves and make a fresh cut on the scion a bit above the break
and you will have matching diameters for grafting.
as for pollination unless you have tiny pollinating insects (usually a little beatle)
you will have to hand polinate.
we do not have pollinating insects over here. 

Cherimoya do not root from cuttings. If it is broken off above the graft, it will put out new shoots from the existing buds. If it is broken off below the graft union, ten you need to graft some of the broken off portion back onto the rootstock. Use a whip and tongue graft. Cherimoya grafts take pretty easily.

 

I just checked on the grafted tree. All of the leaves were crispy like potato chips. I squeezed them and they crumbled away. So, it is leafless, but the green parts of the scion are still very green and supple. I have a mulberry air layer that I am rooting out right now. At one point, it lost all of it's leaves, but then it grew new ones, and is making roots. I just hope this scion isn't too big proportionate to the little twiggy stump it's grafted onto.

You nee to remove all leaves, cut the grafted portion to 6-12", wrap the grafted portion in parafilm, and cover with with a sun-reflective covering, otherwise the grafted portion will dry out before the graft union can heal the two pieces together.

[QUOTE=pitangadiego]You nee to remove all leaves, cut the grafted portion to 6-12", wrap the grafted portion in parafilm, and cover with with a sun-reflective covering, otherwise the grafted portion will dry out before the graft union can heal the two pieces together.[/QUOTE]

Geesh! By the time I cut all that off, hardly seems worth the trouble of grafting it back on. I guess I still have a lot to learn. Thanks.

I have been to tropical fruit forums and they seem to have a knack to grow in these in pots..

Does anyone knows if it give good fruits from seed, even if not true to type?

I toured Dario Grossberger's cherimoya ranch in Vista, California last year. He "bred" the Fortuna cherimoya. By bred, I mean he bought a fruit from the store and planted the seed. It turned out to be a good one on his first try. That's why he called it Fortuna: It means "luck" in Italian. Dario said that he called it that because it is rare to get good fruit from a seedling. 

No, selling seedlings as names varieties is dishonest and fraudulent.

I always try to take a problem and turn it into a solution- they are very easy to graft in April when the leaves drop.  I have scion of Honeyheart or Fino de Jete for you if you want some.  PM me in the spring.

I also have a seeding tree and the fruits are good, just not as good as my named varieties.

[QUOTE=padsfan]I always try to take a problem and turn it into a solution- they are very easy to graft in April when the leaves drop.  I have scion of Honeyheart or Fino de Jete for you if you want some.  PM me in the spring.

I also have a seeding tree and the fruits are good, just not as good as my named varieties.[/QUOTE]

Thank you for the nice offer of sending me scion wood. Fortunately, there are a lot of people growing Cherimoyas in my area. I expect to find a good selection of scion at the annual CRFG scion exchange about 6 weeks from now. I will allow some of the rootstock to grow some fruit, but will definitely graft on some varieties that are known to do well in my area. I may hit you up for scion if I miss the exchange.