During the summer, I went to a few places in the south of Italy and thought I'd share two really great fig-related finds. First, Matera.

Matera

Matera is a city in the southern Italian region of Basilicata that has been continuously inhabited for about fifteen thousand years - from at least 13,000 BCE until about 1952 CE. Yeah.
People lived in that. 

Matera broadly comprises three areas: the modern city, the Sassi, and the mountains with prehistoric caves. While the mountains and caves are a good late afternoon excursion, the Sassi are really the main tourist areas. 

The modern Sasso, or "Sasso Barisano"

Carved out of the mountain, the entire city is a freaking staircase. If you plan on going, make sure you have good knees, good shoes, and naproxen. (I also recommend knowing some basic Italian if you plan on going this far south. Plenty of people speak decent English but aside from folks at the hotel and maybe one waiter at any given restaurant, running into English speakers isn’t as easy as it is in major tourist cities.)

And there are free figs everywhere. There are full on trees growing out of crevices in the Sassi, and some of the fruit is absolutely stellar. 
   

Much of the Sassi are undergoing restoration. The older Sasso's crumbling infrastructure has forced its native inhabitants to abandon great portions of the area. So unfortunately, quite a large number of the trees are just out of reach, even in the modern Sasso. 

Overlooking the older and largely abandoned Sasso called, "Sasso Caveoso"

 
This cluster was full of figs for the most part, but anything within arm's reach was bare.

 
Some trees, like the sirens luring you to your death, grow overlooking cliffs' edges. Quite the fall. 

The good news is, where there’s an abandoned house in the Sasso Barisano, there’s often a fruit tree - whether fig, persimmon, quince, whatever. But just make sure there’s solid ground going all the way from you to the tree if you get adventurous, which I don’t actually recommend. There’s plenty of figs that you can just grab while walking to a museum or something.

   
You'd have to jump a fence of an abandoned property to get to this tree. 

 
Picked while walking back to the hotel. 

 
   
This one was both the most beautiful looking and the weirdest tasting fig I've ever had; its flavor was like very sweet zucchini. Not complaining, though.

 

I Giardini di Pomona / The Pomona Gardens (Valle d’Itria, Puglia)

 Further southeast, you’ll find yourself in the region of Puglia. The Valle d'Itria is located in the center of Puglia, near the cities of Cisternino, Alberobello, and Martina Franca.
   

Disclaimer: The way I talk about the Pomona Gardens sounds like and advertisement, I know - forgive me - but I really enjoyed myself and I recommend a visit. Anyway, I would imagine this is similar to visiting Monserrat Pons or UC Davis.  

   
Dottato di Élia - One of my absolute favorites.

I took a tour of the gardens and I must have sampled somewhere around 20 fig varieties. So I think I ate - seriously, truly -something shy of 35 - 40 figs. I felt like absolute trash for a few hours but getting there was delicious.

 
Mattepinta - One of the local varieties. Exceptional quality.
 
Mattepinta
   
Edit: Rigato del Salento and Grise de St. Jean
   
 
 
Sultane  
   
 
Verdesca, another local variety. Excellent quality. 

There were so. many. more. I have a bunch more photos but like... you get it.

Some background on the Pomona Gardens: Several years ago, Paolo Belloni created this garden to act as a conservatory for ancient fruit. He and his team grow about 400 varieties of figs, many of which are genuinely ancient, that’s to say that they have been sampled, selected, and propagated by peasants for hundreds of years. They also grow figs from other regions of Italy, France, and other countries in Africa and the Middle East. In addition to figs, they also grow many other species including apples, pomegranate, olives, and produce an exceptional olive oil.

It’s a tremendous experiment that focuses on preserving the terroir of the Valle d’Itria by using non-disruptive agricultural practices. This way, not only will visitors and eaters experience the quality of the land, but agriculturalists and hobby gardeners will know what naturally works best for that region. 

Also, if you’re able, you can buy some cuttings or some baby trees. Which sucks for me because I live in the United States. Anyway, I'm pretty sure most if not all tours require a reservation and there is an admission price. I recommend driving there. 

Again, I'm not getting paid to promote anything - it's just awesome.

Thank you for presenting this and for reminding us that we will not forget our past as we rush into our future.Larry

Great job Levar, I love to travel to Italy and do so often, wish I was as good as you discribing such nice places, I will definatly try next time. I visited Matera 3 years ago , I was in Pietrapertosa in August this year very close to Matera in the mountains I think you would like. I also visited Paolo at Pumona in May (no figs) and I agree worth the visit. I just love the all south and the rest of Italy , small towns are the best. Thank you for such a nice description I may tell my wife to start packing again.

Wow, looks like a fun trip. Thanks for posting all the beautiful pictures of the scenery and figs.

I only have 1 variety that you showed "Sultane" how was the taste of it compared to the other varieties?

Wonderful photos and descriptions, thanks for sharing.

These are truly amazing, what an experience you had.

Man, that looks like an awesome trip, thanks for sharing!

super photo tour.  My mouth is watering. Thanks for sharing.

Levar thanks for these photos I have been a fan of Pomona for several years now and look forward to my first visit someday soon.

What an excellent post!  Such beautiful pictures.  Thanks for taking the time to describe them!

Levar, thanks for posting the pics!  Coincidentally, I was in the Puglia region for about 8 days in early October of this year and visited both Matera and Pomona Gardens.  We stayed in one of the trullis for two nights and got a great tour from Paolo.  The problem was that the figs were pretty much gone by then.  You must have been there a few weeks earlier.  I was able to taste Verdescu and Col de Dame Noir but that was about it.

I walked along the same route in Matera as shown in your photos and saw the same wild fig trees growing on the other side of the stone wall along the road.  No figs!  The ironic thing was that I timed my vacation so as to avoid the peak tourist season and also to be able to taste my own ripening figs at home.  I guess I thought in southern Italy the fig season would last longer than in MD.

By the way, I have in my notes that that the green fig you spelled as "Verdesca" is spelled as "Verdescu".  Are you sure about your spelling?  If you didn't make a typo then I will check with Paolo to confirm the true spelling.

Thanks, everyone. I'm glad you guys enjoyed it.

[QUOTE=Mario_1]Great job Levar, I love to travel to Italy and do so often, wish I was as good as you discribing such nice places, I will definatly try next time. I visited Matera 3 years ago , I was in Pietrapertosa in August this year very close to Matera in the mountains I think you would like. I also visited Paolo at Pumona in May (no figs) and I agree worth the visit. I just love the all south and the rest of Italy , small towns are the best. Thank you for such a nice description I may tell my wife to start packing again.[/QUOTE]

I hadn't heard about Pietrapertosa but it looks really interesting. I'll check it out. Thanks.
Yeah and if you're in the area, Pomona Gardens are worth the trip for the olive oil alone to be honest. I'm savoring a liter of their 2014 batch. But they grow enough stuff that there should be good produce for just about every season I'd think.




[QUOTE=Figgysid1]Wow, looks like a fun trip. Thanks for posting all the beautiful pictures of the scenery and figs. I only have 1 variety that you showed "Sultane" how was the taste of it compared to the other varieties? [/QUOTE]

I was there on September 6, so I'm not totally sure what that means for Sultane in terms of its peak season; Col de Dame Grise wasn't ready yet, and a few other varieties either just ended or were on their way out. 

Either way, I only ate one Sultane fig and while it was good, it did not stack up to the greatness of Grise de St. Jean, Nerucciolo dell’ Elba, Verdesca, Fracazzano Rosso, Mattepinta, or many others I didn’t include in the post (only because the photos aren't so good.)

Keep in mind that it was getting cool at night in the valley. Also, that one fig just might not have been 100%. 





[QUOTE=Rewton]Levar, thanks for posting the pics!  Coincidentally, I was in the Puglia region for about 8 days in early October of this year and visited both Matera and Pomona Gardens.  We stayed in one of the trulls for two nights and got a great tour from Paolo.  The problem was that the figs were pretty much gone by then.  You must have been there a few weeks earlier.  I was able to taste Verdescu and Col de Dame Noir but that was about it.

I walked along the same route in Matera as shown in your photos and saw the same wild fig trees growing on the other side of the stone wall along the road.  No figs!  The ironic thing was that I timed my vacation so as to avoid the peak tourist season and also to be able to taste my own ripening figs at home.  I guess I thought in southern Italy the fig season would last longer than in MD.

By the way, I have in my notes that that the green fig you spelled as "Verdesca" is spelled as "Verdescu".  Are you sure about your spelling?  If you didn't make a typo then I will check with Paolo to confirm the true spelling.[/QUOTE]

I know what you mean about wanting to avoid tourist season, but Puglia didn't get hit so hard. I was there in late August/ early September and while Rome was impossible, Puglia was pretty tame except for Bari which had some really atrocious traffic. 

About Verdesca/u, I just got it from the photo I took of the tree:
 
Maybe something was misspelled along the way.

By the way, did you happen to catch the name of the Italian version of Panache? Maja and Paolo said it looked identical but was better than Panache and I can't remember the name at all.

Levar, thanks, it looks like Verdesca is correct and it does indeed seem like a more Italian spelling.  Just to be sure I wrote to Paolo.  If there is more to the story I will post here.  Regarding Panache, I didn't catch the Italian name but I would think you could email Paolo to get more information.

Lavar, awesome photos and narrative. Truly fig Heaven! Thanks

Great place to visit!  I'm glad you got a lot of figs.  Next time start prepping a few weeks early.  Eat 1/2 fig every other day x 2, then every day x 3, then 2/day x3 and increase as tolerated.  I do that every Spring so I'm ready when it comes time.   :)   I use dried figs wherever I can get them, even if they're not very good.

Oh my levar what a dream trip.  The history, edible landscape and the lineage of the figs is stunning.  Thank you for sharing.  Now trips to figgy lands are populating along with figgy tastings dreams.  ;-)  

Thanks Levar, for such a great tour. I feel like I went to Italy.

Levar, Thank you for taking us on a personally guided virtual trip to the Matera region of Italy and to Pomona Gardens. The best part is that we are back in time for breakfast. Beautiful!

What a great read this has been. Sure would enjoy more pics though, if it pleases.

Thanks Levar for the great pics.
Looks like a  real "fig vacation".

[QUOTE=Jerry_M]What a great read this has been. Sure would enjoy more pics though, if it pleases.[/QUOTE]

Sure! 
There's even more fig related photos beyond this but a lot of them are really not interesting at all (photos of signs at Pomona for figs I recognized but the trees didn't produce any fruit like Verdoline, RDB, the other Col de Dames, Pastiliere, Barile, etc.), poorly shot images, or just gratuitous fig nonsense. 

And of course there are about 2,000 of the trip in general but that's ... whew. I'm not gonna do that to you. 

The following two are Nerucciolo dell’ Elba. 

 
A beautiful anomaly in the ostiole end.

 
An intensely dark purple interior. I wonder if it's related to Galicia Negra. 

   
 



The following were from Matera. 

   
I'm not saying I jumped the fence of an olive orchard to get these. I'm also not saying that as a result, I had about 200 thorny stickers in my shoelaces as a kind of cosmic punishment for being so raggedy. What I will say is that these figs were very good and came from three separate trees.


Pompei
   
These were drying out on a stone fence in Pompeii. Every morning and afternoon, new figs would fall and be cooked by the stone, resulting in the sweetest figs I've ever had in my life. I remember it tasting like a marshmallow made out of floral caramel. Honestly, if any of you can import fig cuttings to the USA, I will tell you *exactly* where this tree is.

Excellent post! 
Love your photos and thanks for sharing your experiences.
I can't wait for my next trip to S. Italy. 
These places will most definitely be on my itinerary.

 

[QUOTE=rcantor]Great place to visit!  I'm glad you got a lot of figs.  Next time start prepping a few weeks early.  Eat 1/2 fig every other day x 2, then every day x 3, then 2/day x3 and increase as tolerated.  I do that every Spring so I'm ready when it comes time.   :)   I use dried figs wherever I can get them, even if they're not very good.[/QUOTE]

Ah resistance training for my gut. I wonder if it'd be in bad taste to show up to the fig orchards with tupperware...




[QUOTE=pino]Excellent post! 
Love your photos and thanks for sharing your experiences.
I can't wait for my next trip to S. Italy. 
These places will most definitely be on my itinerary.

 [/QUOTE]

Awesome. If you (or anyone else) would like some advice on how to get around or what to do at some of these places, just PM me. 

Beautiful thread, thanks for sharing...
Mark

Excellent post. Loved it and thanks for sharing your experience.

The Pompeii fig looks/sounds incredible.  I suppose there is a very good chance it needs pollination though.  Did it look like it grew there as a wild fig or was it being cultivated intentionally?  If the latter then there is a better chance that it does not need pollination.

Awesome pics. Thanks for sharing! I gardini di pomona is now on my list of places to go. 

Thanks again, Levar. I actually have a small Asangu, and had no idea what it looks like. Can't wait to try it now.

[QUOTE=figgary]Thanks again, Levar. I actually have a small Asangu, and had no idea what it looks like. Can't wait to try it now.[/QUOTE]

Whoa nice. I only had one but I remember it having a very good and strong berry flavor. 

beautiful pictures!

So cool!

Hi Levar,
Next time send some cuttings to me in France, and I'll grow them and report to you on their performances :) (One can always dream of that. It is Christmas time after all ...)
Nice trip !
In my travels, I haven't seen a single abandoned productive fig tree ... One day, who knows ...
Fortunately, fig trees are more popular, and more nurseries do sell them. That allows me to find some new strains, that I have never seen before . Now, I just have to use patience for the trees to grow and fruit...

Hi Levar,
This is a dream post that you presented here for our pleasure. Outstanding photos and the scenic shots are fantastic. Thanks you very much
Lou

[QUOTE=jdsfrance]Hi Levar,
Next time send some cuttings to me in France, and I'll grow them and report to you on their performances :) (One can always dream of that. It is Christmas time after all ...)
Nice trip !
In my travels, I haven't seen a single abandoned productive fig tree ... One day, who knows ...
Fortunately, fig trees are more popular, and more nurseries do sell them. That allows me to find some new strains, that I have never seen before . Now, I just have to use patience for the trees to grow and fruit...

[/QUOTE]

You know, that’s something I’d actually do just to keep the tree in the system so that one day we all might own it. I'll definitely be back in Pompeii someday, and I’ll keep that in mind and let you know before hand. It seems like a lot of weirdly enthusiastic extra work but I definitely think it's worth it.

What a fabulous trip that must have been!  Thank you for sharing your photos and descriptions!

Thats was great FIGS vacation.... Its Pelligrino from Pompeii

I was in Sardinia this summer for 2 weeks, I rented a bicycle to travel between some towns and villages (really steep hills and heat). I saw plenty of Fig trees growing on crevices and on the side of the road. Some were great tasting. I bet they are all pollinated otherwise how could the seed would get on a vertical stone wall if not carried by birds? Most are edible and blue / purplish skinned. 

In Olbia there was a large tree on the railroad near the train station, the locals would go past the no trespassing sign and get buckets of figs. 

They taste better than what you can buy at Wholefoods for $6 (small basket). 

This lead me to believe that the percentage of edible and palatable seed grown figs is higher than usually stated. 

I have some photos on Facebook maybe will do a Flickr album

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10154123423823066.1073742083.631078065&type=1&l=a52a6420e3

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10154118110038066.1073742082.631078065&type=1&l=99c0c99f26

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10154128831113066.1073742085.631078065&type=1&l=e3529cb811

 

I love that.

You have some really great photos there. 

And I agree - many of the random trees I came across throughout Italy that were in cracks and crevices weren't "wild" at all and were at least of decent quality. Not to say I'm that well travelled or an expert or anything of course. Still, I can't imagine someone sticking a cutting in the side of a cliff either, so it more than likely came from droppings.

That said, in a lot of these old towns and cities, historically the peasants would curate the figs in the area, that's to say they would keep the best ones and kill the duds. Maybe that contributed to the quality in some way.

[QUOTE=kelikje]Thats was great FIGS vacation.... Its Pelligrino from Pompeii[/QUOTE]


"Pelligrino" is the name of the variety of fig I found in Pompeii?

I tried searching for it and all I could find was this thread: http://figs4funforum.websitetoolbox.com/post/pelligrino-fig-unknown-7545015

And the fresh figs on the tree looked dark purple/black and round like I258.