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Subject: Fig ID help Replies: 13
Posted By: recomer20 Views: 164
 
Any chance it was Oregon Prolific? I think that one's in the Marseilles/Italian Honey/Latarulla group.

Subject: Exhausted Replies: 12
Posted By: recomer20 Views: 286
 
The consensus has been that JH Adriatic is likely not an Adriatic but a Green Ischia/Verte-type, with Battaglia supposed to be a close relative. I'm surprised you've had rooting issues--should be a good rooter and grower.  herman has some on ebay now: http://www.ebay.com/itm/322289239060    he's an exceptional source. Unless we have a supercold winter with lots of tree damage, I prefer rooting dormant scions from winter cuttings (usually sold in January/February) Coir bin or Mai's baggy method both are solid methods. I don't always have great luck with green cuttings during the growing season unless I cut them myself from local plants -- shipping can be a troublemaker during warm months. 

I would say, don't be afraid to buy potted plants while you get your skills going!!! In the end the cost about the same for a beginner, and it's nice to have some plants maturing while you "play." Otherwise you'll have an army of tiny plants and might have to wait 3-4 years before you get a decent harvest. 

Good luck!



Subject: Which fig is this? Replies: 1
Posted By: recomer20 Views: 64
 
If it's a dark fig I would guess Ronde de Bordeaux, if a light fig I would guess Dalmatie.

Subject: Propagation Confusion Replies: 52
Posted By: recomer20 Views: 668
 
For water-rooting, covering the cup/jar in tin foil helps a lot - also seems to slow growth of mold.

Subject: Madeleine dds needs pollination? Replies: 18
Posted By: recomer20 Views: 225
 
Often a few cool nights will kill the ripening process. 


Subject: Need identified. Replies: 25
Posted By: recomer20 Views: 486
 
Chico Strawberry?


Subject: Healthy Dwarf fig tree not producing fruit Replies: 36
Posted By: recomer20 Views: 487
 
Your dwarf leaves look consistent with Black Jack (maybe a dwarf CBT variety?). Can't imagine why not fruiting for you after 7 years. Yikes! I've never met a fig that didn't produce [some version of] a fig by its 3rd year unless absolutely starved of light.  I think Dennis snaglpus  has some black jacks that do well for him in NC maybe he can  give a positive ID.

Subject: Atreano (FMD) Replies: 6
Posted By: recomer20 Views: 227
 
UPDATE: A backwards summer - A hot, atreano.jpg  dry June & cooler, rainy July. Picked the first of the Atreanos since it looks like a few days of overcast and sprinkles don't bode well for extended ripening.  A real winner among greens. Beefy, sweet and figgy with a good bit of seed crunch - and this one had super tender skin (rare among the greens in my little collection - some tend to get a little pulpy).  I think the pic is quite true to color: yellow-green skin and deep strawberry color with bit of amber. 

Subject: Is this a brown turkey fig? Replies: 10
Posted By: recomer20 Views: 179
 
i would say "yes" because of red eye (and green ischia usually lighter green). I believe the white spots are more environmental than cultivar-specific.

Subject: Please help me ID my fig tree Replies: 6
Posted By: recomer20 Views: 209
 
Typically with the Brown Turkey types (both CBT and EBT), the eye will be bright red  or pink even while the fruit is still green. If no red/pink eye, you probably have something else.

Desert King will stay green when ripe.

Either way, as long as your fig trees are making figs, you're good to go :)





Subject: Fig varieties suggested for Atlanta area? Replies: 2
Posted By: recomer20 Views: 68
 
Hi Barry,

I'm in Birmingham, AL (similar to ATL) and LSU Purple, JH Adriatic, and the Marseilles/Lemon-types all do well here in ground. If you are thinking about Celeste, I'd recommend the 1-3 lobed Improved variety - can handle stress much better. The Bordeaux-types (Negronne/RdB) are also great potted, but occasional prolonged freezing temps have been known to kill in-ground trees this far inland. 

Jason from Atlanta used to post a lot here - he's been busy with life lately, so he might not reply to your messages, but you can peruse his posts for ideas: http://figs4funforum.websitetoolbox.com/profile/1288241

On a historical note: The Hunt fig was the creation of BW Hunt - an interesting character from NY who moved to Georgia and became a little obsessed with figs. 

Subject: Atreano (FMD) Replies: 6
Posted By: recomer20 Views: 227
 
Frank's Atreano has fruited for me for the first time this year, and so far has impressed me with heavy production for its size and bigger-than-expected figs. If it performs as well in the taste department, I'll be thrilled. Finger's crossed!

Happy figging, y'all!

IMG_5219.jpg  IMG_5220.jpg IMG_5224.jpg 


Subject: Small red bugs on my VdB figs Replies: 7
Posted By: recomer20 Views: 219
 
Possibly mites? Ladybugs might help.

Subject: too late to try cutting Replies: 10
Posted By: recomer20 Views: 376
 
Height of the summer is a miserable time for mail ordering plants due to heat and damage to green growth, best to wait till late autumn. As for seeds, just remember that fig seeds will not generally produce the parent. In fact (due to a very complicated gendering among figs), you may wind up with male plants that do not produce edible figs (called caprifigs) or smyrna types which are female plants that require pollination. Fig pollination  only occurs via a certain wasp that only lives in a few places in the world, so buying or rooting your own plants grown from cuttings is the only way to ensure you get a viable plant. Most of the figs traded in the U.S. and Europe are self-pollinating types (Celeste, Brown Turkey, Negronne, Italian Honey, etc.) so cuttings  (or buying an established plant) is the way to go.  If you are seeking common figs like Brunswick or Celeste, I would find a local nursery or grower and buy a potted plant. You'll get a year or two headstart on eating figs - and for trees like Celeste, finding a mother plant in your local area that is a great tree will help ensure you've chosen a strain that does well in you area. Save cuttings for rarer types or just get cuttings from neighbors to practice on so you'll have great success in the future.

Happy figging!



Subject: LOWE'S Mislabel - again! Replies: 10
Posted By: recomer20 Views: 380
 
I was at HomeDepot a few weeks back and they had plenty of healthy looking fig bushes - nearly all of which appeared to be mislabeled. I had to fight the urge to fix them, but alas, life is short.

Subject: MBVS leafing out - NO roots Replies: 11
Posted By: recomer20 Views: 277
 
I recall mbvs taking a very long time to root, but were slow and steady. I was surprised that all cuttings survived. First year, they were slow to grow. In the second year I re-potted to a large pot and they really began to take off, catching up with other varieties quickly. I'd just be patient and expect a long rooting process (maybe several months). 

Subject: Help identifying fig Replies: 2
Posted By: recomer20 Views: 109
 
Looks like Brunswick to me.  Interior is peachy with strawberry blush. I'm guessing all three of these are from the same tree? HA! Lot of variation!

Subject: I wanna to know the possible cause Replies: 5
Posted By: recomer20 Views: 172
 
Hollow stem could also be some types of infestation (beetle)?

Subject: Productive MBVS Replies: 20
Posted By: recomer20 Views: 630
 
I have an HC and MVBS that are the same age and both are now the exact same size although the MVBS took much longer to take off. Fruit b/t HC and MVBS is similar in taste (sort of strawberry-ish), but I remember the MVBS being creamier in taste. It almost reminded me of strawberry cream cheese.  I'm surprised you've had no fruit yet - mine was a good producer even when the plant itself looked pretty sad. 


Subject: help me Replies: 2
Posted By: recomer20 Views: 199
 
It would appear Capitola long and Diredo are common (self-pollinating); kalamata and snowden are both smyrna-types (need pollination); and the KAC series were Calimyrna (smyrna) hybrids resulting from some field experiments but UC Davis catalogs seem to suggest they usually turned out to be caprifigs (male figs).  

Don't know what region you live in, but most of these don't seem to be worth the effort. If you do have the wasp, some of the other Portuguese and Turkish varieties would be far more exciting to trial in my opinion.

Happy figging~

Subject: Notching to promote branching Replies: 9
Posted By: recomer20 Views: 325
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Elfarach
Very cool... So the notching doesn't have to go all around the trunk right?



I only did about 1/2 to 3/4 inch wide cuts depending on the size of the bud and trunk -- just enough (presumably) to cut off the flow of hormones down to the bud.

IMG_3791.jpg 


Subject: Notching to promote branching Replies: 9
Posted By: recomer20 Views: 325
 
I'm not a pro, Valerie, but from reading, it seems late winter and throughout spring is ideal as the plant is still in its growth spurt. This article also talk about other timing and uses for scoring in apple trees: http://www.homeorchardsociety.org/growfruit/trees/scoring-and-notching-a-method-in-tree-training/

Subject: Notching to promote branching Replies: 9
Posted By: recomer20 Views: 325
 
Wanted to share some notching results from this year. After reading your comments here and watching an Australian youtube on the topic (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tf8vYRV_Z0A), I finally had the courage to do some heavy notching this winter: (1) to promote low, trunk branching on a spindly damson plum, and (2)  to see how figs would react to notching.

I was really surprised by just how effective notching was.  This is the 2nd year the plum has lived potted at my house while I wait for a place to put it. Last year, there was only top growth with zero budding on the lower trunk. This winter (late February) I notched with a chunky serrated bread knife (about 5mm above node) nearly every trunk node, and this spring about 80% of notched nodes are budding out--some as low as 8 inches above the soil line (just above the graft).

With figs in the past, plants that were top pruned tended to bud out from the 2-3 nodes below the pruning cut, but when lightly scoring above lower node with a box knife, again about 80% of scored nodes are budding out (some very low on the trunk) while unscored nodes tended to NOT bud out. Pretty satisfying results.  Again, all cuts were made in late Feb. and there was just a tiny bit of latex leak from the scores. The scoring did not have any negative results that I encountered.

In the case of an unpruned HC that had grown top-heavy, notching above a lower node yielded budding while other lower nodes not notched did not bud. 

Hope some with spindly plants will find this useful to encourage lower growth. It appears scoring in conjunction with tipping and/or pruning was significantly more useful than tipping/pruning alone.

Have a great weekend, folks.
IMG_3782.jpg  IMG_3789.jpg  IMG_3798 (1).jpg  IMG_3798.jpg  IMG_3800.jpg 


Subject: Help needed to identify a Fig variety Replies: 10
Posted By: recomer20 Views: 291
 
My JH Adriatic leaves looked like that first year, although they grew quite upright.

Subject: What to do with this...? Replies: 2
Posted By: recomer20 Views: 176
 
I would just plant in a mix of bark fines and yard dirt. Doubt gnats would be an issue at this of stage development.

Subject: another variety I.D. request, pls Replies: 6
Posted By: recomer20 Views: 199
 
Can't think of another green fig with light interior that has that pointy leaf shape except Latarulla. Possibly White Genoa or Conadria??? I don't think Atreano baby figs would ever be that dark green. 

Subject: OT - Very painful injury Replies: 77
Posted By: recomer20 Views: 809
 
Hope you're doing better, Dennis. Thought of you last night as I played the fig shuffle -- Birmingham got close to freezing last night. Man, as the pots get bigger and bigger, it's not fun at all.  Ready to get these bad boys in ground so I can let Mother Nature sort them out.  Hope NC weather is treating you kindly.

Subject: Improved Celeste Replies: 49
Posted By: recomer20 Views: 744
 

Hoosier: The LSUC IC from JFE just opened - but too early to tell. Usually, my figs that are going to have severe lobes bud out with some indication of lobing, but these  don't look like they are going to have the O'rourke "brunswick"-type leaf pattern.  Nor does it have the frilly, oak-leafing of old-school Celestes. I guess  it's the "other" improved one. hehehe.  Considering Benjamin Hunt and Dr. O'Rourke spent much of the 20th century playing "mad scientist" on the Celeste, there's just no telling how many variations are out there.

IMG_2316.jpg
 


Subject: Looking for a new fig: Ronde de Bordeau or Negronne or XX ? Replies: 16
Posted By: recomer20 Views: 469
 
Petite Aubique would also be in this grouping, right? And should be available in Europe? 

Subject: (Almost) all my trees have leaves already Replies: 8
Posted By: recomer20 Views: 284
 
Same here, James. Birmingham was so mild my potted Atreano (pic) stayed outdoors all winter and now has leaves and figs pushing on nearly every branch - just covered it with a sheet of painters plastic a couple of nights back in January.  First time I've ever had figs pushing this early.  Almost everything has leafed (HC and MsvB being the last to open). Only thing still dormant are two small Valle Negra and BourjasotteNoire that were in the semi-heated shop with most others. I don't think they're dead, but they having pushed buds yet. Hope they wake up soon - those are two of the longshot varieties I was looking forward to trialing here. 

IMG_3765.jpg

 


Subject: Common figs that drop their fruits in Malaysia Replies: 12
Posted By: recomer20 Views: 245
 
Do your figs ever go dormant? It's possible that trees that are in continuous growth are always expending energy so there is not enough reserve energy to bear fruit. In temperate areas, winter dormancies provide the plant an opportunity to stock up on energy to be expended over a shorter growing season. Maybe thin out flower crops to see if that helps? Just a theory. 

Subject: Can a HUGE cutting be rooted ? Replies: 32
Posted By: recomer20 Views: 1,194
 
It has been suggested that a huge limb or trunk can be buried sideways creating roots (and budding) at multiple nodes. It could then be chopped up into into multiple plants.  I would guess the same thing could be accomplished by wrapping multiple nodes with medium (like an airlayer). As others pointed out, the term "airlayer" is usually reserved for rooting a section (branch, etc) of while the section is still attached to the host tree. 

Subject: Improved Celeste Replies: 49
Posted By: recomer20 Views: 744
 
Ha! I ordered the "LSU IC" from JF&E about a month ago.  Those wonderful heirloom cuttings I got from Richie didn't make it (totally my fault) and decided to go another direction. Really wanted to try LSU Tiger, but oddly they are nowhere to be found right now. Should've grabbed one a few years back when they were everywhere.  The JFE IC is dormant and about 4' tall. I'm trying to airlayer the top half, so if it takes, I'll pass it along, Blackfoot.   The mature standard Celeste from Petals continues to drop heavily back at my parent's house - not sure why. 

Subject: 5 year old fig tree that will not grow Replies: 11
Posted By: recomer20 Views: 277
 
If still that small after 5 years in LA, I'd be scratching my head, too. Possible nematode or other soil problem? Since the parent tree is fine (and you could presumably air layer a replacement in no time), I would dig it up and inspect the roots for galls. If so, I might trash it. Otherwise, I'd pot it up with good soil for a season in a 15 gallon pot and fertilize it well and see if it takes off. Might be worth giving it a severe pruning to see if that might force some new growth.

Best of luck.

Subject: Help! Cuttings seem drying Replies: 7
Posted By: recomer20 Views: 251
 
I had really great success with Mai's method this go round (although I think the cuttings I got were naturally strong rooters). I think her secret is soak the cutting for a long time so the cutting has it's own moisture, thus the medium can be drier than usual - prevents rot. Seal the leafing end with wax (no real need to wax the root end). For me, I put the rooting bag inside another ziplock with a slightly damp paper towel in it (which kept the surrounding air extremely humid) until it rooted and started to leaf. I start mine in a water heater closet that stays dark and warm.

After rooting and budding out, I moved the rooted bags into a lidded bin to establish - misting the walls of the bin just a little to provide ambient humidity.

Once in the past, I tried to start cuttings in cups with the cups inside a thin garbage bag. But they dried out. I found a lot of thin plastic (like garbage bags) are breathable so they dry out very quickly. I would definitely make sure your outer bag is thick enough (and sealed) to contain the humidity.

By the way, that white cutting looks a bit like it was dead/dried out before you ever started rooting ??? 

Good luck to you. 

Subject: Having some trouble with my rooted cuttings - Help Please - Replies: 12
Posted By: recomer20 Views: 177
 
Could be the lights are too low scorching leaves...or that the potting soil haste much fertilizer in them.. or maybe the soil is to compacted?  I might try raise the lights, add a small fan to move the air a bit, and try watering from below (dunk them briefly in 3-4" bin of water -about half way up the pot-- and let drain off. That should last 4 + days). If soil is too compact you can gently squeeze the sides of the pots to break it up a bit--just be careful not to break off roots--but compact soil will create pockets of mucky dampness in the pots that could result in rot).  I would also say never underestimate the damage gnats can do. There's a product called gnatrol you can add to you water to help alleviate gnat. If you are using the bottom water method you can add it to your bin of water before you dunk your pots. 

Good luck

Subject: Large selection of cuttings still for sale Replies: 42
Posted By: recomer20 Views: 1,539
 
Thanks for all your work, Harvey. You have many of the varieties that I would not have normally thought would do well as inground plants in my area; but you make it possible to try them out one by one. Really keeps my interest going.  This last one I ordered I thought I would try to graft, but it's so thick I don't know I can find a whip to match. Not complaining ha!  Thanks again. 

Subject: Black Madeira cuttings Replies: 32
Posted By: recomer20 Views: 1,102
 
Hats off for sharing. And an amazing job shaping your tree. 

Subject: Cut-n-root versus airlayer ? Replies: 5
Posted By: recomer20 Views: 146
 
Thanks, JDS. My summer project is to build up one side of my yard (currently a steep hill that is eroding badly) so I can make it my fig spot. Hopefully once in ground I can play more with burying limbs to propagate. 

By the way, I was in the Midi-Pyrenees (Rocamadour & Conques) back in late October. Absolutely stunning region. I saw some fig trees at Rocamadour I wanted to take cuttings as a souvenir,  but decided it would be bad form. The last fruits had already been taken by frost -- what I saw were  small and dark similar to Ronde de Bordeaux. Couldn't have asked for a better trip, though. Weather was beautiful and the people very generous. 

IMG_2871b copy.jpg 

 


Subject: Cut-n-root versus airlayer ? Replies: 5
Posted By: recomer20 Views: 146
 
Thanks, folks, appreciate it.  I'll try the airlayer.

I can move them into a semi-heated shed so they'll be protected from frost until April while roots set.  What medium do you prefer for airlayers (I've sort of moved away from sphag and gravitated toward coir and mini-nuggets for most rooting tasks)?

Subject: Cut-n-root versus airlayer ? Replies: 5
Posted By: recomer20 Views: 146
 
Hi all -- need your advice.

I have two similar, strong healthy plants (one HC, left, and MvsB, right) both about 40" tall.  They both have branched out into a near perfect great shape, but the branching is about 18" higher than I want them to be. Ideally I would love that first scaffold at about about 12-18". 

To preserve the top, I could either
  • Airlayer the top: which I assume means the section below the layer would not branch until next year..a year lost? If I girdle the bark, would the lower section branch out like if I were to chop the top off?
  • Cut-n-root:  cut the top off maybe 8" below the branching and attempt to root the entire top section like a cutting (I have never tried to root that much wood at once). 
IMG_2285.jpg 
Appreciate your suggestions.
Very best to you,
Rick




Subject: Air layer potting question Replies: 3
Posted By: recomer20 Views: 111
 
Hi Zeitgeist.  Recommend plant at the same soil level you have it now. Figs, when in a good environment, are aggressive rooters, but are susceptible to rot, so best not to bury trunk, especially if young wood -- it will manage itself.  If you are moving to a bigger pot, you can leave 4" of space in the top of the pot to add thin layers of bark, mulch or amendments later on. Just giving the tree more space to grow will make a huge difference in performance - the plants I left in 3 gallons last year didnt do much, but the ones I moved to 10-15 gal pots near tripled in size.  

Subject: Figs of Cyprus Replies: 47
Posted By: recomer20 Views: 1,929
 
RE: Eggplant

Maybe she is referring to Patlican? 



Andreas,
I have changed the topic of this thread per your request.Thanks for all of the post!My friend from Cyprus that is giving me some Vardika fig trees also has a tree she calls eggplant?What do you know about this fig?

Subject: Triple Crown Blackberries Replies: 102
Posted By: recomer20 Views: 1,499
 
Question: With primocanes, do you prune them down each year or just cut out the 3rd year stalks? 


Subject: Which is rarest fig tree? Replies: 50
Posted By: recomer20 Views: 4,642
 
The elusive "real" LSU Sott's Yellow. :)

Subject: Fig Jam Color Replies: 16
Posted By: recomer20 Views: 361
 
 On the other end, Lemon & Marseilles (virtually colorless interiors) are nice, too. The light color makes for very attractive preserves.

Subject: First Ripe Sal's EL Replies: 8
Posted By: recomer20 Views: 260
 
Nice. My 2nd year HC and MvsB fruited this year, but not my Sal's (due to neglect on my part). May just be age, but the HCs were jammy and a bit tart, whereas the MvsB was jammy but had a second flavor: creamy? My thought was "this tastes like strawberries and creamcheese on a bagel."  Hoping I get the Sal's up-potted for next year so I can compare.   I'm still wondering if all of these similar varieties will be the same or different when they mature. Thanks for posting.

Subject: Does anyone recommend starting cuttings in winter? Replies: 16
Posted By: recomer20 Views: 411
 
I second Tylerj's comment. Avoid bringing your other outdoor potted plants in for the winter into your indoor fig area. You'll likely bring the gnats in with them.


Subject: Figs that nobody likes Replies: 29
Posted By: recomer20 Views: 1,131
 
I've learned so much from this forum...particularly about waiting as long as possible to pick figs. Makes a big difference. Even "lesser" varieties picked at the right time in the right conditions can bowl you over. One of my favorites this year was probably an EBT. Lord it was good!

Subject: OT Queen of Spain Replies: 19
Posted By: recomer20 Views: 493
 
Congrats, Michael. Definitely a satisfying reward for your hard work!