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Subject: Winterizing Outdoor Fig Trees - Zone 6 Replies: 6
Posted By: jrdewhirst Views: 197
 

I see that "pitangadiego" and I posted almost simultaneously.  If I were you reading these two messages, I'd be confused.  I'm going to try to reconcile the differences.

Let me caution you that "p" has way more experience than me, so you should read what I write with that in mind.

Scenario #1:  Fig plants are experiencing 65 degree F days and 45-50 degree F nights.  The plants are thinking about going dormant but are not yet convinced.  Then suddenly, nighttime temps drop to 30 F.  I agree with "p" that the plants could be damaged.  This scenario would represent a really bad time in San Diego (and lots of other places in late fall / early winter across the South and Southwest).

Scenario #2:  Fig plants are experiencing 55 degree F days and 35-40 degree F nights.  The plants are going dormant.  Growth has stopped cold; leaves are yellowing then dropping.  Then nighttime temps drop to 30 F.  I don't think the plants would be damaged at all.  FWIW, this scenario would represent business-as-usual in my RI (and maybe in your NJ).  This year, for example, we've already experienced light frosts / ~31-32 degree temps here, and the figs I've planted here (the usual cold-hardy varieties) don't seem to care.  

Within limits, the absolute temperature seems less important that the path there.  You don't want growing plants, used to warm temps, to freeze.  But fig plants that are exposed to cold gradually and, as a result, fully dormant should laugh at 30 degrees F.  

Subject: Winterizing Outdoor Fig Trees - Zone 6 Replies: 6
Posted By: jrdewhirst Views: 197
 
This is somewhat intuitive (i.e., no systematic data) but I prefer to let the plants experience temps 25-28F so that they have reason to go seriously dormant.  Anytime after that seems OK provided I protect before temps get below 20F.  I figure that if a dormant plant can't survive 20-25F without protection, it won't survive -5 (my typical winter low) with it.  But I wouldn't want to risk <20F without protection.

I suspect that cold wind is more of a risk than cold per se.  So I'd accelerate if you have a forecast of both cold temps and heavy winds.

That generally implies protecting in early Dec, more or less, up here. 

This approach has worked well for me for 3 winters.

Subject: Winter protection for very small in ground fig Replies: 15
Posted By: jrdewhirst Views: 341
 
fwiw, I have used moth balls in the past, both for fig covers and for electrical junction boxes.  These boxes are in the ground, near the surface, controlling irrigation.  Mice love to nest in the boxes. 

I figured the mothballs would help.  But then last spring I found a nest of mice, live with three babies, in a box along with a half-dozen moth balls.  Now I'm skeptical.

Subject: Wrapping a Fig Tree Replies: 11
Posted By: jrdewhirst Views: 296
 
Nice!  So if I understand right, you are solidly in Z6 where low winter temps average sub-zero (-5 to -10 F).  And you've had damage once in 10 years.  In that time, the sole heat source during cold nights has (so far) been the earth.  You give us all hope. 

Subject: OT: Help diagnose disease for this Asian Pear Replies: 6
Posted By: jrdewhirst Views: 117
 
<< Best solution is getting fire blight resistant cultivars. >

That was my conclusion, as well.  I'll let commercial growers deal with susceptible cultivars. 

I want no more than 2-3 pear trees, so I planted the European variety Harrow Sweet last spring; and I just ordered another European variety Warren for next spring.  But I couldn't find any Asian variety that seemed highly resistant.  Does anybody have any suggestions?

FWIW, I did the same with apples (Liberty, Enterprise).  I figure that if one tree gets sick, the odds of an infection of the others skyrockets.  So the entire community needs to be resistant.

Subject: trenching Replies: 23
Posted By: jrdewhirst Views: 320
 
Question:  I figure that most figs can tolerate 25-30 F.  I assume that frozen ground never gets much below freezing -- the Earth is just too big a heat sink.  So why is it necessary to prevent the ground from freezing?

Subject: wintering figs zone 5 Replies: 14
Posted By: jrdewhirst Views: 300
 
Steve --

How did you care for the fig while in the garage?  Are you sure it didn't dry out?  What variety was it?

I ask because I stored pots in my unheated, attached (insulated) garage last year without a problem despite outside temperature lows well below
0 F.  I've known lots of people who stored pots in garages successfully, so I'm curious about reported problems.  I want to avoid losing plants, if possible.

Actually, I did have one problem -- warmth.  In March, the garage got too warm and the figs came out of dormancy earlier than ideal.  But cold was not an issue.

Thanks. 

Subject: wintering figs zone 5 Replies: 14
Posted By: jrdewhirst Views: 300
 
Becky -- Could you describe the root cellar (dimensions, especially depth; materials)?  It sounds like a great solution.  I'm guessing that once the cellar is built, you are able to keep the plants roughly at ground temperature in the dark with modest effort.  That sounds perfect.

Subject: Corragio Replies: 9
Posted By: jrdewhirst Views: 259
 
Fignut --

You and I are friends, so I debated saying this to you personally.  But I decided to go public.  Thank you for your posts.  Like your e-mails, your posts on fig varieties are just about the most informative and meticulously documented that I've seen.  You have taken the time to understand your subject matter; and you take the time to educate the rest of us. 

Subject: Zone six inground tree with pics (What i Learned) Replies: 12
Posted By: jrdewhirst Views: 701
 
Dave -- 

1.  What's "lotsa figs" -- 10, 100, 1000?  For example, I got >200 this year from a smallish, protected, in-ground Florea that had zero kill despite temps at -7 F.  Did you see anything comparable?
2.  What's "better"?  Do the unprotected figs survive winter without damage?  Or is there just better growth from more developed system of roots?

Thanks.

Subject: dormancy or grow lights??? Replies: 38
Posted By: jrdewhirst Views: 520
 
I think you may have a hard time getting the growth under lights to toughen up (i.e., turn woody, or "lignify") in Canada in January.  For plants in pots left outdoors or for plants in ground, as autumn passes and plants are exposed to gradually declining temps, the tissues toughen up.  The toughened plants can then tolerate storage in the cold (and dark), and they can also tolerate late spring conditions as they emerge from dormancy.  I fear that your plants under lights will be too soft to survive, 

Subject: dormancy or grow lights??? Replies: 38
Posted By: jrdewhirst Views: 520
 
IMO, it's no contest.  Let them go dormant.  It's simpler, cheaper, easier.  Moreover, the growth under grow lights may not stand up well to actual spring sun.

Just don't ignore the dormant plants.  They'll need some moisture.

Subject: Hardiness of some varieties Replies: 15
Posted By: jrdewhirst Views: 344
 
Herman --

Thanks for the comments.  As mentioned, I've had good success with RdB outside.   My site faces WSW and gets good sun, midmorning to sunset; it's a hill so excess water can run off; and there are big rock walls on the hill immediately behind the plants that hold heat.  So all these factors may help.

A question based on your observations:  Am I'm right inferring that dark (e.g., black plastic) mulch, warming the ground in spring, would encourage more / earlier fig production?

Subject: Hardiness of some varieties Replies: 15
Posted By: jrdewhirst Views: 344
 
Sorry for the slow response, I was away.

Here in RI (Z6B, min winter temp ~ -5F), I've had RdB inground through two winters.  After late fall pruning and with good winter protection, I've had essentially zero loss of branches on it.  The plant has produced well, ripening on the early side (starting late August).  For comparison, Florea has seemed similarly hardy but begins to give ripe figs roughly a week earlier -- mid August.  Mt Etnas (HC, MBvs) have seemed slightly less hardy, with maybe 30% loss on HC and 10% on MBvs; these varieties begin to give ripe figs roughly a week after RdB -- very late August / early Sept.  FWIW, I THINK that the HC was a little more aggressive coming out of dormancy and got zapped this year by some unseasonably cold weather.  

Re Pino's comment, my best tasting in-ground fig is the late variety Gene's Paradiso.  With pinching and great micro-climate, it ripens here from late Sept into early November.  It has been fairly hardy, maybe 10-20% damage on average over three winters.  So it may be borderline for Z6a. 

Subject: Florea pics Replies: 12
Posted By: jrdewhirst Views: 225
 
Congrats!  Good thought protecting them from the raccoons.

Were the earlier figs brebas?  I don't know of any main crop fig earlier here than Florea.

Subject: Looking for something just a little bigger..... Replies: 7
Posted By: jrdewhirst Views: 129
 
You have had success with HC and like its flavor.  The simplest solution would be to find another Mt Etna that is bigger.  From my personal experience, Marseilles Black is a little bigger and a little more tasty.  From pics of 11 Mt Etna varieties posted elsewhere recently, it seems that MBvs, Black Greek, Dark Portuguese, and Zingarella may suit you.  Also, you could probably grow these outside with protection.

Subject: Suggestions for my final two Replies: 32
Posted By: jrdewhirst Views: 520
 
Can you find a ~2-3 year old plant to buy?  You'd have figs that year. 

Also, fwiw, I've seen amazing growth on cuttings started this winter.  I'm pinching baby figs off most of them.   I left a few that I fully expect to ripen.  I'll be very disappointed if they don't bear fruit next year.

Do you really think you'll have to wait years?

Subject: Suggestions for my final two Replies: 32
Posted By: jrdewhirst Views: 520
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by spiff2
If it went -5 in South Carolina the governor would have to declare a state of emergency. But we do have the same problem almost every year where things bud out and then a cold snap to bite it.


The only difference may be that we have that problem two months later! 

I sometimes think that my winter cover is more important for how it protects the plant from unseasonal warmth than for how it protects from seasonal cold. 

Subject: Too late to airlayer in zone 6 ?? Replies: 9
Posted By: jrdewhirst Views: 164
 
I hadn't thought of that approach.  Sounds great -- I'm tempted to say creative.  Thx.

Would you agree that it would be a mistake to remove the air layers before they're dormant?  Or is there a viable strategy for that approach too?

Subject: WHAT DO YOU SUGGEST? Replies: 21
Posted By: jrdewhirst Views: 428
 
I don't know anything about Dominick other than what I read in 2 minutes, but the pics make it look like a Mt Etna-ish fig not too different from Marseilles Black.  Do others agree?  Are you concerned that you'll have two very similar varieties?

Subject: Suggestions for my final two Replies: 32
Posted By: jrdewhirst Views: 520
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by spiff2
Rhode Island may be a little rough for in the ground.


For sure.  Theoretically, I'm borderline Z6-Z7.  But the winter low seems pretty reliable at -5F more or less, which I think is Z6b.  But is that very different for you?  Don't get me wrong -- I hope so, for your sake.  Also, the tendency for the variety to emerge from dormancy quickly when weather is temporarily warm (e.g., March thaw) may be more relevant than the capacity to endure cold when fully dormant.  So you may have to worry about variability of late winter temps as much as the extremes of cold.

I'd love for somebody in Z6-Z7 to test Smith outdoors.  If there's success, I'd plant it in the ground here in a heartbeat.        

Subject: Too late to airlayer in zone 6 ?? Replies: 9
Posted By: jrdewhirst Views: 164
 
Optimistically assuming 6 weeks for decent roots, then 2 weeks for the AL to push roots out into a pot, you'll have a new tree in late October -- just in time for frost.  What are you going to do with it then?  I really don't know, but I wouldn't want to force that plant to endure late October freezes, go dormant, and get shoved into a garage for the winter.  But maybe it wouldn't be so bad if you could extend the season a bit with a greenhouse or artificial lights.   

Subject: Suggestions for my final two Replies: 32
Posted By: jrdewhirst Views: 520
 
Smith tastes great -- good enough to persuade me to buy one and plant it a big pot.  But I'm not sure it's cold hardy.

Subject: WHAT DO YOU SUGGEST? Replies: 21
Posted By: jrdewhirst Views: 428
 
I love Marseilles Black, so I can't disagree with that choice.  But based on my limited experience here in Z6B, my 1st pick would be Ronde de Bordeaux.  It's earlier and IMO tastier; I picked my first two of this season today.

I like light figs too, especially the Adriatics.  But they all run later than RdB, Florea, and Mt Etnas like MB.

Subject: Vole extermination Replies: 4
Posted By: jrdewhirst Views: 81
 
Z6 where?  I ask to determine if you have different voles than me.

I've had 6 in-ground figs in Z6B RI.  In winter, I put plastic on the ground and cover the plants with foil-covered bubble wrap; I put nothing else inside the shelter that may function as cover for voles, mice, etc.  I try to make it as uninviting as possible.

I've had very good success keeping the plants alive.  Cold damage is limited.  Varmint damage is zero.

Subject: Plate of RdBs coming my way. (pic) Replies: 10
Posted By: jrdewhirst Views: 190
 
Frank -- Do you have room in-ground?  RdB works well in-ground for me here, with protection.  Sadly, my figs are not are far along as yours.

Subject: Air layer question Replies: 8
Posted By: jrdewhirst Views: 168
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by bgli
Joe, two of the cuttings I used plastic water bottle method and other two I used plastic wrap and all were wrapped in tin foil. I used pro mix BH soil. It was difficult to wrap up the soil and get enough moisture in the wrapping. I did scrape a bit of the bark off.  Some of the air layers stayed too dry while another seemed pretty wet. I kept all the air layers on for at least 3 -4 weeks. It was tough to peek in and see whether air layers had sufficient roots so when I saw any roots I then proceeded to cut them from tree - probably not a great strategy. Any way they are now in pots with no roots or little roots. Should I keep in the pots (in shade) or place in plastic container with coir?  thanks


At this point, I'd treat them like cuttings (plastic with coir).

For next time: I think any firm plastic container would be OK.  For example, I've used Gatorade bottles.  But I prefer Dunkin Donuts plastic ice coffee cups because they are relatively large and they are fairly thin -- easy to cut.  Re wetting, I'd strongly recommend getting the Pro Mix wet (soak then squeeze) before you put it in the container.  Once the mix is packed firmly inside, surrounding the branch, replace the cover and wrap the container with tape (e.g., clear packing tape) to create a fairly tight seal.  It'll be slightly open at the top, which may admit some rain water running down the branch; and slightly open at the bottom, which will permit drainage.  Then add the foil.  Then wrap it all with string to secure it in place.  Doing this, I haven't had to add water.  To avoid root damage from random motion (e.g. wind), it helps to make the air layer just above a crotch, where a lower branch can support the cup.

Most importantly, I don't think 3-4 weeks is long enough.  I've seen recommendations of 8 weeks or longer.  I'm impatient, and I've had good success at 7 weeks.  But at only 3-4 weeks, I think the roots will be too few and too tender.  You want a nice, dense root mass so that when you cut it off the tree and remove the plastic cup, it holds together well. 



Subject: Smith Fig Tree Replies: 3
Posted By: jrdewhirst Views: 196
 
Smith is delicious.  The nursery listed, which is located in NW FL, has Smith for sale, according to the website. 

Subject: Air layer question Replies: 8
Posted By: jrdewhirst Views: 168
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by chucklikestofish
~can you give me a step by step of your process ,i air layer all the time i get great turn outs thick heavy roots ,so if you tell me step by step what you do i might be able to help ,it's really simple to make trees this way ,~


especially how long you waited before opening?

Subject: South Florida Fig Replies: 2
Posted By: jrdewhirst Views: 130
 
Thanks.  He's got mango and avocado.  Also, Spanish would not be a problem -- my wife's family is Cuban; the cousin came here after the revolution and is fluent in both E & S. 

Subject: South Florida Fig Replies: 2
Posted By: jrdewhirst Views: 130
 
I had lunch today with my wife's cousin, who lives in Coral Gables, FL.  He'd love to grow a fig tree.  He's got a spot with full sun. 

Do any members from south FL (or similar) have a variety to suggest?  It should be easy -- vigorous, productive.  it should be tasty, of course, but it doesn't have to be the most awesome tasting fig ever.

Thanks!

Subject: Cold hardy zone 6 in ground suggestions (specifically honey type) Replies: 7
Posted By: jrdewhirst Views: 164
 
Steve --

Thanks.  I planted mine in the spring of 2012.  In three winters, including some very rough weather, I've had maybe 10-20% damage.  I'm sorry about your damage.  Maybe we should compare notes on method.

Re emergence and fruiting, one tentative conclusion from my observations is that it's best to leave the plant protected and dormant as long as necessary to ensure that it doesn't experience any shock from the cold.  In past years, I didn't take the protection off until early April with bud break late April/very early May.  But as I mentioned on another thread, this year in March I opened the protection to help ventilation.  The covers are like a tunnel or Quonset hut; I opened a relatively small ~6" hole in the north end.  I think this was a mistake.  Pretty much all of my plants showed retarded emergence on the north side, which I attribute to exposure to the cold wind.  I have no other explanation.  If I'm right, a fairly small difference in microclimate in early spring can make a big difference.

I have a friend who co-manages a nursery father north, probably borderline 6A/5B.  She has hundreds of figs in pots.  She keeps them in an unheated garage.  This year, I noticed that she took them out of storage in late April.  I bought a few plants, which I either re-potted or planted in-ground in the second week of May.  Comparing similar varieties (eg., my already in-ground MBvs and HC vs. the new in-ground Sal's or potted Takoma Violet), I can't see anything to suggest that the plants brought out of storage in very late April suffered any delay. 

So in the future, I plan to leave on the protection a couple weeks longer.

All that said, I think you need to pinch Paradiso and prune excess growth to get ripe a good harvest of main crop figs here.  It may also help to remove brebas.  The way I prune now, there're very few anyway.  It helps that Paradiso seems to be able to ripen figs well into fall.  Last year, I was still picking in early November.

FWIW, my wife thinks Paradiso is the best-tasty fig I have.

Subject: Cold hardy zone 6 in ground suggestions (specifically honey type) Replies: 7
Posted By: jrdewhirst Views: 164
 
Based on my few years of experience with in-ground figs -- (1) Dark: I can't argue with a Mt Etna choice, though RdB seems a great alternative.  Marseilles Black has been great for me, though I did plant Sal's this year just to compare.  (2) White Berry: I have Paradiso (Gene) and it is great, but late.  It demands pinching.  Supposedly it's the same as Battaglia Green, so you can judge.  Honey:  I planted Lattarula, which may be closely related to Marseilles White.  it has hasn't produced yet.  But Florea has done really well.  It may be viewed as more sugar than honey.

All of the varieties I mentioned (ex Sal's, which is new) have survived with modest damage here (Z6B) over the winter with protection.

Subject: Pro-Mix HP in SWCs: Straight or Add Bark? Replies: 6
Posted By: jrdewhirst Views: 153
 
I experimented with plain, all-purpose Pro-Mix this year in 10g SIPs.  I added perlite and vermiculite to help insure that the pots never get water-logged in rain (I don't bag the pots).  The Pro-Mix seems to wick water just fine. 

The basic ingredient is finely ground sphagnum moss, which wicks really well,  right? 

Subject: Are fig trees deer resistant? Replies: 17
Posted By: jrdewhirst Views: 262
 
Dave -- Well that's a relief.  Hopefully that fig-eating whitetail subspecies stays down south.

Subject: Are fig trees deer resistant? Replies: 17
Posted By: jrdewhirst Views: 262
 
Wow, I wouldn't have thunk it!  Were they eating leaves or fruit or everything?

Also, those are big trees.  Is that caption right -- you're in Connecticut Z6B?  Or is the video from elsewhere?  I grew up in CT and the accents seems out of place. :)  If it is CT, what's the fig variety? 

Subject: Figs For New England Replies: 4
Posted By: jrdewhirst Views: 174
 
I've had Mt Etnas (HC and MBvs), RdB, and Florea survive (modest damage) with winter protection, producing well the next year.  Also Lattarula.  No experience with others.

Subject: Are fig trees deer resistant? Replies: 17
Posted By: jrdewhirst Views: 262
 
I have lots of deer.  They are aggressive, feeding (for example) on rhododendrons planted against the house's foundation.  There are few things here that they don't eat; ALL of my berries and fruits are fenced, except the figs.  In my 3-years' experience, there's been only one occasion where I've noticed damage to figs -- this spring, a deer evidently tasted a budding branch but then spit it out; the leaves were on the ground.

I agree that they may eat anything if hungry enough.  But figs would be extremely low on the list.  And I agree that during October / November the bucks may rub them if the figs are planted near travel corridors. 

Subject: Guerllia Planting - Need Cold Hardy Varities Replies: 4
Posted By: jrdewhirst Views: 158
 
Mike --

I'm in Bristol, RI.  I've got 6 plants in ground (more coming), which have survived 1-3 winters outside (with protection) with no losses.  If you want just one plant, I'd say Ronde de Bordeaux.  But there are lots of possibilities.  Send me a private message and I'll give you the name of a very good local supplier of both plants and expertise.

Joe 

Subject: Winter protection gone wrong... Replies: 15
Posted By: jrdewhirst Views: 266
 
is it possible that you had some protracted warm weather in Jan/Feb that persuaded the plants to come out of dormancy, followed by cold weather that zapped them? 

Subject: OT Growing Mushrooms Replies: 51
Posted By: jrdewhirst Views: 1,033
 
smyfigs --

Do you have space on the ground?  Last spring I found Stropharia growing in wood chips under some landscape plants, so decided to try growing it.  I got a local landscaper who was chipping some maples to dump the chips in my yard.  Then I prepared a bed, 20' x 10' x 6-8" deep, inoculated with Stropharia.  That was this past Sept.  I'm hoping for a small harvest next spring / early summer and more later.  These will supposedly also grow underneath garden plants, so maybe you could combine with peppers or tomatoes, raspberries or blueberries.

Separately, I've got some leaves and pine needles that I'll inoculate with Blewit in March/April.

Of course, there's some oak and maple logs inoculated with shiitake and oysters 'cooking' behind the garage.

None of this has produced a single mushroom yet.  But it might help answer your question about what's possible.  Meanwhile I managed to find some oysters growing on a sugar maple down the road. Delicious!