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Subject: First time fig tree owner with planting questions. Replies: 11
Posted By: BronxFigs Views: 374
 
Bella-

A fig tree with that mass of leaves will dry out and wilt very quickly.  Too much dehydration and heat stress, and that Celeste will abort the forming figs.  Either ground the tree or get it into a much larger pot, ASAP.....5-gallons minimum, for the container.  Keep the tree hydrated.

You'll do fine.

Frank

Subject: Manipulating Fig trees Replies: 10
Posted By: BronxFigs Views: 399
 
Sonnya....

Soil issues around your home will be no problem if you containerize your fig trees.  Make sure you understand the cultural requirements of growing figs in containers.  They will need constant attention re: watering routine/fertilizing/repotting, etc.  Vacations????....you'll need a responsible "fig-sitter" to make sure your trees don't dry out and cook.  It can be done, and you'll have more control over your trees when they are containerized. 

You can containerize any variety in your climate, and you will have many growing options.  Just make sure you use a quick draining mix, and don't skip the regular, supplemental feedings, using a complete fertilizer, like ESPOMA IRON-TONE (organic), and dilute Miracle-Grow tonics.  BTW, I just learned about a good trick to use when repotting....bury a raw egg under the roots of your tree.  As it decays (no smell either) the egg will release plenty of good nutrients directly around the tree's root system, and that's a good thing.

In my opinion a 5-gallon bucket will be too small, and will quickly fill with roots.  Roots growing near a hot container wall will cook in the TX sun, real quick.  18 gallons, minimum....25 is better if you don't want to root-prune every year. Home Depot sells half-Whiskey barrels (plastic) for $19.00/22.5" diameter.  These containers hold at least 20 gallons of growing medium.  Be ready, they get heavy.  Use a dolly to roll your trees around...if you decide to containerize your trees.

You have a few choices to think about.

Frank

Subject: Sal's Corleone in a sip Replies: 32
Posted By: BronxFigs Views: 617
 
Those plastic, half-size Whiskey barrels make wonderful containers, and will last for years.  Depending on how they will be used, all one needs to do is drill some drainage holes into the bottom, and you'll have a perfect container for even the largest trees.  With root-pruning when necessary, you can replant your trees right back into these containers and never need to up-pot trees into anything larger.  Home Depot sells two sizes:  20.5" diameter, and 22.5" diameter.  These containers holds circa, 18+ gallons of mix.  That's all you'll need for a 6ft. tree.

CAUTION.....HERNIA WARNING!!!!!!  These pots are heavy!  Invest in a good dolly and roll your trees around, into the sun, out of the rain, in and out of storage.

                *********************************************************************************************************

BTW if you live in cold-climate areas, growing containerized fig trees and providing proper, winter protection is the only way to keep your fig trees alive from season to season.  Just saying.... from experience.


Frank

Subject: Too much too soon? First Root Pruning attempt Replies: 5
Posted By: BronxFigs Views: 207
 
With no other information given, e.g. climate zone, size of the original pots, etc....but I would throw those fig trees into at least a 5-gallon bucket, and forget the root-pruning until next spring.  Cut back/air layer some of the long, whips, and root them.  Up-pot in lieu of root-pruning when trees are actively growing.

The trees should do great....depending on your climate/culture.

Frank

Subject: Manipulating Fig trees Replies: 10
Posted By: BronxFigs Views: 399
 
Sonnya...

The first thing I did after buying a few fig trees was to join a fig forum and read through all the hundreds of prior postings that were available.  It can take a few weeks, but you will gain important knowledge, and find the answers to all your present and future questions.  Growing fig trees is easy if you stick to a few basic principals.  Be very aware that the culture for growing containerized trees is very different than the culture used for growing fig trees planted into the ground.  Concentrate on learning what needs to be done to keep your tree alive and thriving

Good luck, and have fun with the process.  You'll be eating your own, properly ripened, figs in no time at all.

BTW, Wellspring Gardens, FL has many of the varieties that you have listed.  The plants are tiny, but can grow into bearing age trees in just two seasons....and, the plants are cheap.  You will/should have no trouble growing trees in Texas.  If you do....check your culture.

Frank

Subject: Fig trees ground vs pot Replies: 19
Posted By: BronxFigs Views: 648
 
I have grown containerized fig trees since 2007, and even if I had a garden, I would still containerize the fig trees.  You will have far more control regarding the culture, feeding, watering, etc. when the tree is containerized.  However, both methods of growing have merits and demerits.

Cold weather will not be your problem in Puerto Rico, but excessive water, tropical rain storms/hurricanes can be a problem as figs are ripening.  Too much water at the wrong time will wash out the fig's flavor, and dilute all the sweet sugars.  When grown in a container, you can control water at the roots by using the correct growing mix, and by moving the trees under cover to prevent flooding the roots with too much water.  I use cheap dollies to ROLL my trees around.  This saves my back, and prevents hernias.

I personally have found no differences in fruit quality, and have eaten lousy figs off both in ground and containerized trees.  Almost every variety of fig has the genetics to become a delicious piece of fruit.  Controlling water at the roots when figs are ripening is a major factor when it comes to how a fig tastes more than variety.  Lousy culture = lousy tasting figs.

Regarding containerized figs:  You MUST pay attention to watering.  You must water, and feed your trees regularly.  Containerized trees are easily stressed by dehydration and excessively warm growing medium.  Roots can quickly "cook" when containers are exposed to hot, direct, sunlight.  I would seriously consider some heavy mulching around the sides of containers - to keep the heating from the sun at a minimum, and, to keep the roots cool.

Growing containerized fig trees is more labor-intensive.  In my area (New York City), winter weather is a very serious factor, and many trees have died from the freezing cold.  My containerized trees go into a storage shed for protection against the ravages of inclement winters, and each year I keep my fingers crossed and hope my trees survive.  It's worth all the effort when you eat some perfectly ripened figs that were grown on your own trees.

Good luck with your fig endeavors.

Frank

Subject: Bag Rooting Techniques Replies: 108
Posted By: BronxFigs Views: 4,080
 
Very interesting.  Thanks for showing this technique for rooting cuttings. 

I have used ordinary, natural, burlap as a plastic bag substitute. When cuttings eventually grow roots you just have to plant burlap bag into the soil/mix and the roots will grow through the burlap and into the surrounding medium.  Roots are never disturbed.  Plant the rooted cutting on top of a buried egg for added nutrition, as the egg returns to its elemental state.  (No...the egg doesn't stink....). 

Check out: "Burlap Bag Rotting Method,  Plumeria Care" ....for step-by-step directions.  Fig cuttings can be rooted using the same methods that are used for rooting Plumeria.

Have fun.

Frank

Subject: Companion Plants for Fig Trees Replies: 29
Posted By: BronxFigs Views: 7,888
 
Wow!....Don't even remember starting this thread, way back in June 2013.  Little did I know at that time, that most of my fig trees would be killed by the brutally cold, now infamous, "Winter of 2013-2014".... ending my 10 years of growing figs with minimal protection, if any.  Replaced just some of the trees, and now I keep my fingers crossed, and the trees go into a storage shed, early.

Back on topic....I did manage to plant herbs, and dwarf marigolds in my fig-tree containers, and the plants added some sparkle, color, and fragrance.  There's nothing like some fresh herbs sprinkled onto your food.  Portulaca also does well, and looks nice when the flowers spill over the edge of the containers.

Thanks for the comments and interest.


Frank

Subject: container size Replies: 13
Posted By: BronxFigs Views: 335
 
Size does matter, and the bigger the better.  Try for a minimum of 15 gallons.  You can also convert an 18-gallon, storage tub (sold at Home Depot) into a decent, fig tree container.  Just drill/melt drainage holes around the bottom sides of the container - so that if roots grow out of these drainage holes, the roots can be spade trimmed when storage time rolls around.  If you put drainage holes in the bottom of the containers, you will not be able to spade-trim roots if the roots should grow into the soil.  Mulch heavily to prevent the growing medium from overheating if trees are grown in full sun exposures....which is best for the tree.  Avoid shade.

HERNIA WARNING !  These containers are heavy.  Use a dolly to move your trees around.

These container/storage tubs cost less than $10.00 and they last 4-5 years.  Replace if needed, when you do the mandatory, root-pruning.  Use a quick-draining mix, and load it with plenty of pine bark nuggets - to save weight.  All nutrition comes from supplemental feeding when you water the tree(s).  I use Espoma Iron-Tone, with dilute, 24-8-16 Miracle-Grow "tonics" (1 tbs/5-gallons) with each watering.  Stop ferts by mid-July, and make sure that the new growth hardens off properly, and protect your trees before cold, freezing weather starts. 

Good luck and happy growing.

Frank

Subject: Potted fig farm Replies: 9
Posted By: BronxFigs Views: 941
 
Nice video.  Informative, and easy on the eyes.  Kids were cute...eyes on those figs were wide open, and fruit was split.  Giant breba?  It must be nice to have a greenhouse, and great climate.

Thanks for the look.

Frank

Subject: "Noire de Caromb" = "Kathleen's Black" ??? Replies: 19
Posted By: BronxFigs Views: 1,501
 
Thanks for adding more information to this rather, old thread.  Looks to me like these two figs are different, judging by the leaf shapes, etc.

Frank

Subject: The Fig Tree From The Godfather Movie Replies: 58
Posted By: BronxFigs Views: 1,182
 
BTW....Theresa Caputo, AKA "The Long Island Medium"....has a rather large fig tree growing in her backyard.  Look closely, next to the garage in the backyard scenes.  It's there....and, her nails...well, you can't miss them.

Frank

Subject: The Fig Tree From The Godfather Movie Replies: 58
Posted By: BronxFigs Views: 1,182
 
Hello, Coop-

Just read through your posted story.  Interesting to learn about this fig with a history.  Much good luck....hope this special fig, tastes great.

Frank

Subject: Great Grandpa's Fig Tree & Thank You to member BronxFigs Replies: 26
Posted By: BronxFigs Views: 367
 
DANNY !!!!! 

So happy to read your story, and even happier that you were able, finally,  to root a piece of your past.  That special fig will always be the sweetest.

May your future be as good as all your memories.  After all....we are now, what we were.

Good luck.
Frank

Subject: Fig Exploring in Brooklyn Replies: 21
Posted By: BronxFigs Views: 258
 
Take a real close look.  Almost every tree that's shown in those photographs have re-sprouted from around the original base section of the trunks...which have been severely chopped away.  Can't imagine how beautiful the older, original trees were.  The fig tree carnage in NYC is immeasurable....all due to the freezing cold winters that we suffered over the last two years. The winters of 2012-2013/2014-15 were ruthless, killers, and the freezing cold temps cut down thousands of New York City's finest examples of "Old World" fig trees.  God only knows if they will ever be replaced.  How could they be?  After all, these were the trees our grandfathers planted.   

Almost all of the older, well established fig trees in The Bronx, Queens, Staten Island.... have vanished, leaving behind nothing but skinny suckers.  Very old fig trees, that were growing, unprotected for decades, some with 8" diameter trunks, are now nothing but hacked up, gruesome skeletons.  These botanical headstones are all over the place, everywhere I look.

You notice these things when you love figs, and it's sad to see all this devastation as I drive around through some of the old nabes. One can only hope that subsequent winters will be easier on these struggling-to-survive, veteran trees.  The sprouting suckers are a a small sign of hope that they will live on.  Far too many did not re-sprout any new growth from around the roots, and are now lost to the ages.

Frank


Subject: Going Italian Replies: 11
Posted By: BronxFigs Views: 286
 
Check out the new fig listings at Durio Nursery/LA.  Many Italian figs. Most figs will/should do well in Texas, as long as they don't freeze.

Happy hunting.

Frank

Subject: Harvesting Goldening Riverside fig. Huge Fig Replies: 8
Posted By: BronxFigs Views: 272
 
OK.  Thanks for the quick answer.  Hope the fig is as good as it looks, and, for years to come.

Good luck.

Frank

Subject: Question on Growing Plants Indoors Replies: 3
Posted By: BronxFigs Views: 129
 
More often than not, these inside-grown plants, when placed back outside into bright light, will sun-scald.  Damaged leaves will drop off and then a new set of leaves will sprout, ready to take all the sun they can get. 

Don't worry.  The plant will be fine.

Frank

Subject: Harvesting Goldening Riverside fig. Huge Fig Replies: 8
Posted By: BronxFigs Views: 272
 
Enjoyed watching the video. 

Questions: Is this variety sold commercially, by a retailer?  If yes, who sells it?

Thanks,
Frank

Subject: Durio Nursery...FIG LIST for 2015-2016 Replies: 31
Posted By: BronxFigs Views: 1,154
 
Hi Dennis-

The Red Italian leaves look like the leaves from a Mt. Etna type fig.  Hardy Chicago-ish shaped, thick, leathery, and dark, spinach green.  Brunswick usually has those deeply divided, finger leaves.  You could never mistake the RI for a Brunswick.  I have no photos to post of the original trees.  Sorry.

Hope this helps.

Frank

Subject: Durio Nursery...FIG LIST for 2015-2016 Replies: 31
Posted By: BronxFigs Views: 1,154
 
Dalton's "Red Italian" is not like Sal's Corleone (which is the same as Schar Italian, a known splitter).

I also sent Dalton some propagation wood, from my original "Red Italian" (unidentified) trees that came from Mount Vernon, NY.  This is a small reddish-black fig, deliciously sweet, and probably is another Mt. Etna type fig, so nothing new here, but it was fairly hardy until trees were killed in 2012-2013 winter.  It can split in rainy weather.  There are better Mt. Etna type figs to be had.  Inferior to Hardy Chicago/Bensonhurst Purple.  I grew Red Italian in containers since 2007 without any winter problems, but bad winters kill trees.

Frank

Subject: Durio Nursery...FIG LIST for 2015-2016 Replies: 31
Posted By: BronxFigs Views: 1,154
 
Smungung...

Thanks X 1000.  The title has been edited and corrected and the typos are gone for good.  Now, I can rest.


Frank

Subject: Durio Nursery...FIG LIST for 2015-2016 Replies: 31
Posted By: BronxFigs Views: 1,154
 
Elk....

Thanks.  Didn't know the editing and correcting of the title was no longer an option.  NOT GOOD....  : ((((((

Subject: Durio Nursery...FIG LIST for 2015-2016 Replies: 31
Posted By: BronxFigs Views: 1,154
 
Dennis-

Thanks for doing what I couldn't....i.e. providing the Durio Fig listings.

BTW...I gave Dalton wood off my Atreano-Belleclare so that he could propagate this variety.  My original "Atreano-Gold" trees (purchased back in July-2007) came from Zaino's Garden Center, Westbury, NY (Long Island), and the owner of Zaino's was a neighbor of the Belleclare Bros.  I believe the Atreano-Gold from Zaino's was propagated from Atreano-Belleclare wood.  (My original Atreano-Gold trees were killed in the Winter 2012-2013).

Anecdotal story, but I got this Atreano-provenance information from a very reliable source, and member of not only this Figs4Fun Forum, but also a posting veteran of the old "Garden-Web Fig Forum".  He's been around the fig block a few times, and has been posting for years.  He also knows the Belleclare Bros, personally.

***************************************************************************************************************************

So....how do I correct/edit the title of this thread?    HELP!!!!


Frank

Subject: Durio Nursery...FIG LIST for 2015-2016 Replies: 31
Posted By: BronxFigs Views: 1,154
 
Is it possible to edit/correct the title of a thread?  How????  I hit "edit" and then "full edit"....and, I still cannot correct thread title.  What did I do wrong?


Frank

Subject: Durio Nursery...FIG LIST for 2015-2016 Replies: 31
Posted By: BronxFigs Views: 1,154
 
Ed-

Sorry....Wish I could do as you ask, but I'm computer illiterate.

Give Dalton a call.  I'm sure he'll send you the list.

Frank

Subject: Durio Nursery...FIG LIST for 2015-2016 Replies: 31
Posted By: BronxFigs Views: 1,154
 
Dalton Durio/DURIO NURSERY has released the new list of available figs for 2015-2016.  Great selections including.... wait for it....Belleclare's- "ATREANO" (the original).

Take a good browse through the list.  Get out the check book/credit cards.  The web-site includes the characteristics of the available figs.  

Happy hunting.


Frank

Subject: Cray cray on the electrical tape method, one plant per node!!! Replies: 26
Posted By: BronxFigs Views: 603
 
Honestly, I scratched my head in confusion, and then had to read through this whole thread to finally get to some details regarding this technique of starting roots on stems.  I didn't even understand the title, or subject, of the thread.  Without the link to the original postings, and the explanatory photos, I would have been lost.  I have never seen this tape-wrapping technique before, and if it works well, it can be a real boon for those who want a lot of trees, quickly. For every node, a tree.  That's great!

So... the plastic tape is wound around the stems with sticky surface towards the outside....Ummmmmm....I wonder if a thin layer of burlap (strips) can be wound around the stems first, then wrapped with the outer layer of tape.  Then the  plastic tape is ultimately removed after roots form, but the burlap stays wrapped on the stems -which are subdivided into sections- and the roots can continue to grow through the burlap, undisturbed...and into the growing medium.

All, just speculation on my part.  Of course, I'm going to try this next season.  How could I not?


Frank

Subject: Beginner to Figs Replies: 17
Posted By: BronxFigs Views: 322
 
Reading through older threads can be very educational. These same threads are just filled with all kinds of information, links, and photos regarding the growing of figs.  However, researching and reading takes time.  Quite often, one needs some quick answers.  DO NOT hesitate to ask!  That's what this forum is about, and why it was "invented".  Forum members will always jump in and give you the answers you need, quickly.

Seek and ye shall find, ask and you shall receive.

Frank

Subject: What do most people do wth a lot of their figs. Replies: 27
Posted By: BronxFigs Views: 477
 
I have read that some growers make pickles from their unripened, end-of-season, green figs. 


Frank

Subject: Beginner to Figs Replies: 17
Posted By: BronxFigs Views: 322
 
Pisano....Welcome...

All the information that you need has already been posted on this forum.  When I joined, years ago, I also knew very little about growing figs, so I read through all the past-postings.  It takes a few weeks, but you'll get the much needed answers to all of your questions, and a better idea of what lies ahead.  Growing figs in the Pittsburgh climate zone will be a challenge.  I would concentrate my research on the methods that can be used to overwinter your trees, either planted into containers or for grounded trees.  Growing fig trees is the easy part.  Keeping them alive from season-to-season, not so much.  But, it can be done, and you'll do it too, just like most of us do who also live in cooler climates.  I have found that growing trees in very large, 18-gallon containers and then overwintering them in a cool, storage shed works for me.  Many fig growers store their fig trees in a cool garage.

If I may offer a suggestion....Order/buy yourself a fig tree that is old enough to bear figs for the 2016 season. Have it shipped around the end of March-'16, and grow it throughout the coming season planted into a 5 gallon bucket.  You will learn how to water, fertilize, and keep it alive.  Between all your new knowledge you'll get from the forum postings, and information from forum members, you'll most likely, be eating some figs off your tree(s) by the end of next summer.  Cuttings are great, but you'll be waiting 3 + years for figs to eat.  As an alternative, you can also order some tissue-cultured fig trees from Wellspring Gardens/Florida (the trees are tiny, cheap, but grow very quickly into fig bearing trees within two seasons).  Wellspring offers many excellent varieties.  I bought (April-'14) Olympian figs from Wellspring Gdns, and the trees grew so large, that they sprouted figs (July-'14) the first season.

You have many options, but your Pittsburgh winters will be the limiting factor.   Also, try to choose and grow varieties that will ripen figs in your short, cool, growing season.  Try: "Chicago Hardy"/"Bensonhurst Purple"...it's fairly hardy, bears excellent-tasting figs, and it's easy to find. 

Good luck with your figgy endeavors.

Frank


Subject: Video on Separating suckers? Replies: 12
Posted By: BronxFigs Views: 203
 
Josh, et al...

Do a quick search for "stooling propagation of plants"....this will show you exactly what to do with all those low, suckering branches, and how to ultimately separate them from the original tree(s).  I'd wait until the next growing season to root those extra side branches.

Good luck, and happy figs to you.


Frank


Subject: How much can I cut back? Replies: 11
Posted By: BronxFigs Views: 236
 
Here's another idea....leave the trees unpruned, just as they are, and when trees once again leaf out next spring....do some multiple air-layers, and root many new trees from all the unwanted branches.  Air-layers are just as easy as rooting dormant wood, and you'll get fruiting-size trees a lot quicker than by starting trees from cuttings.  Air-layered trees can bear figs in one season.  You can even do multiple air-layers on the same branches, and increase the yield.  I can "see" at least 20 new trees coming from all the extra branches.  You can also do both....take one branch and subdivide into a few cuttings....and air-layer the rest, next spring, when tree is actively growing.  There are posted threads showing how this can be done.

Rooting dormant wood cuttings can be fun, but keeping them alive and healthy through the dark, dreary, winter months can be a challenge.  Almost always, the new growth will be weak and etiolated because of lack of sunlight, and weakened growth will sun-scald when brought outside to grow, next spring, if not properly/gradually acclimated to full-sunlight.  You will avoid all of this unpleasantness, if you throw some air-layer on those extra long,  branches.

Just some thoughts.  Good luck.  Keep us posted.


Frank

Subject: Largest Container Figs Replies: 15
Posted By: BronxFigs Views: 490
 
The "pollarding" (a pruning technique) of trees in European countries seems to be a very common practice.  There have been a few threads posted on this forum regarding "rejuvenation pruning" of older fig trees -for better production and controlling tree size. 

I guess if done correctly, and with keeping the final scale-size in mind, it might an be effective technique to use if/when a very large fig tree has been neglected for decades.  To my eye, it looks terrible and very unnatural.  I have also seen photos of large fig trees being pruned back to just a few main branches and then the remaining thick branches were top worked and grafted with younger scions.  The new scions would then become the "new" fruiting, branches...producing different variety figs, all on one tree....sort of like the idea behind the famous, now "Frankenfig". 

Photo #10 shows what seems to be an older, very neglected, fig tree that's been drastically hacked back to the just the main trunk, and a few side branches....some of which are seen rotting, just above the roots....a perfect entry point for rot and disease.  I see just a few suckering branches sprouting from the cut ends, and the tree doesn't look very productive.  Perhaps the owners inherited this neglected, overgrown fig tree when they bought the house....maybe the branches were freeze-damaged or killed back.  It's gonna need a lot of careful, and some selective pruning work to bring a tree like this back into health, and full production.

Interesting photos.  In this country pollarding is commonly done to prune back Crepe Myrtle.  It's known as "Crepe-Murder"....and, it's ugly.  Who ever does this kind of "pruning", should not be allowed anywhere near trees, a saw, and pruning shears.....IMO.  It's mutilation.

Frank

Subject: Wellspring Gardens plants Replies: 14
Posted By: BronxFigs Views: 427
 
Chad, newbie to figs....

Two seasons ago, I bought tissue-cultured, OLYMPIAN fig trees.  The tiny, 6"-8" trees are now over 5 ft. tall and I was able to get about a dozen figs off them this season.  I did pinch out the figs that grew on the trees during the first year.  I would not let these tiny trees get anywhere near freezing temps.  I would grow them along with the citrus, and give them as much sun as possible.  Next season, slowly acclimate them to full sun, and warmer temps.  You will be surprised at how fast they will grow and produce figs once they are  planted either in ground, or in a very large container (minimum 5 gallons/quick-draining mix), and fertilized heavily.  Pinch out all figs for the first 1-2 seasons.  Concentrate on growing the root system first, then, you can grow for fig production.

The price is right, the trees are disease-free, and you'll be picking figs in a few seasons.  How can you go wrong?  Just beware of how you overwinter your trees in Zone-5 temps, which will kill your trees, if you don't prevent your trees from freezing.

Good luck.

Frank

Subject: Largest Container Figs Replies: 15
Posted By: BronxFigs Views: 490
 
Thanks for posting these pictures, and for the link that shows a few more photos of containerized, standard, single-stem, fruit trees.

I can only speculate that these fig trees with the very fat trunks, were first field-grown, extensively pruned back - including the roots - and then shoe-horned into those containers.  I would also guess that those trees are just temporarily planted into those containers, for shipping purposes, and the trees will subsequently be replanted and grown in the ground, after being sold. 

In my opinion, there's just too much tree for that size container.   Imagine trying to lift one of those trees when it's root-pruning time!  Double hernias, at a minimum, and probably some back surgery, thrown in for good measure....

Good fun to see what can be done.  Sort of reminds me of a very large-scale, bonsai.

Frank

Subject: Removal of leaves from potted fig in fall to expedite moving inside for winter storage Replies: 17
Posted By: BronxFigs Views: 420
 
It is at this time of the year (shorter days, weaker sunlight, longer, cooler nights) when semi-lignified (greenish) wood is starting to harden off.  Leaves are sending photosynthesized foods, hormones, etc. to the roots for storage and watery sap is thickening, becoming fig "anti-freeze".  All fertilizing with nitrogen-rich formulations should have stopped at least a month + ago.  Continue to keep the semi-dormant trees hydrated.  Let the leaves turn yellow, and fall off the trees, naturally.  Expose the bare, quiescent trees to some cooler weather- to properly harden off the newer wood- and then, store trees in a cool area for the dormancy phase.  Keep the roots hydrated/damp.  Light is not necessary after trees go into full dormancy.


Frank

Subject: Removal of leaves from potted fig in fall to expedite moving inside for winter storage Replies: 17
Posted By: BronxFigs Views: 420
 
Leaves are now sending sugars and other good stuff to the roots, where it will be stored, and then used when trees start up next spring as they break dormancy.  Let the leaves fall off naturally, then store your hardened-off, dormant trees in a cool shelter.  Nature knows best.


Frank

Subject: Ripening progression Replies: 4
Posted By: BronxFigs Views: 145
 
Matt...

Tree planted in ground?...or, in a container?  If containerized, bring your tree into a warmer-than-outside garage/sun porch, etc.  at night, and then back outside during the day, giving it a full, hot sun, exposure.  Keep doing this until the figs swell, and soften with sugary ripeness. Cooling night temps. will arrest ripening, and if cool enough, figs will not ripen to perfection, if at all.  Shuffling the tree into a warmer area at night and giving hot sun during the day may help Matt to eat some  ripened figs.  However, if the tree is grounded, keep your fingers crossed if the nights are getting colder.  Not much you can do for an in ground tree when nights start to cool off.  You could try oiling the eye area which may hasten ripening, but the results might be just an inferior-tasting fig, which would be a great disappointment.  In any event, if the night temperatures really take a nose dive, and there is no hope of seeing ripened figs for this season, pick off those underdeveloped figs.  There is always next season, and some seasons are better than others.

Read through all the threads about pinching fruiting branches back to 6-8 leaves....which will limit production, but, shorten the ripening time.  Don't give up.  Once a properly ripened fig is popped into your mouth, you will do what ever is needed to get your figs to ripen.  As your tree puts on some age (3-5 years) and grows a better root system, the main-crop figs will set and ripen earlier in successive seasons, depending on weather and culture.  Not allowing the development of a breba-crop of figs will also help the main-crop figs to sprout/ripen earlier.

Hope this helps.  I grow only containerized trees because it gives me more options, especially at the beginning and at the end of the season.  It's also more work, but, I get to eat figs in mid- August/early-Sept.

Frank

Subject: Pruning/Training new tree Replies: 11
Posted By: BronxFigs Views: 219
 
Maze....

Do a forum search, read through all the threads regarding the pruning of fig trees and the training methods that can be used to establish the basic, branch structure of any fig tree. 

You still have, essentially, just a rooted twig, and depending on your climate zone, I would be more concerned about keeping this small plant alive throughout the coming winter.  Next season, just as buds are getting ready to burst, I'd plant that tree into a much larger container, fertilized it, and let it grow out.  I wouldn't prune anything off of it for the first few years.  Why?  Because branches can sometimes be damaged, or killed, from freezing temps.  If you leave extra branches on the tree you will be able to prune off what you want to prune off when the time comes.  Why limit yourself?  Decide how you want your tree to look, i.e. bush-form, or, single-stem, standard tree-form. In either case, it doesn't matter.  Prune away whatever branches that don't fit into your envisioned plans.  If the tree is fertilized and is vigorously growing, new buds will break, and grow into new fruiting twigs/branches.  Pinch out new buds as needed.  Once the basic framework of branches has been established, keeping the bush/tree within bounds is easy done.

Root systems will grow to support the canopy of leaves growing above the ground, so the more branches/twigs, the more roots, the more figs....  Try not to restrict root growth with too small a container. The roots in a containerized tree need to be protected from overheating.  A good size tree needs at least 15-18 gallons of a quick draining, growing mix.  If grown right, you can easily get dozens of figs off a 6 ft. containerized tree.  Strive for the basic branch  structure, then, for fig production.  This takes 3-5 years (growing seasons), and will be a work in progress...but at least you'll get some figs along the way.  The results are worth it.

Good luck, and happy growing.


Frank

Subject: yet another fig ? that need an answer from the experts hereon the forum. Replies: 5
Posted By: BronxFigs Views: 196
 
Planting fig trees in the ground, in Zone-7.... is ALWAYS going to be a gamble.  Fig trees evolved in  Mediterranean climates, and will not do well in Temperate climates, i.e. unless they are protected from freezing temperatures.  You may think that your climate, or local winters are mild enough, but all it takes is one bad, freezing, winter, and your trees are done.  Fig trees are semi-succulents and must be treated accordingly, or new growth will be damaged from freezing if not properly hardened off.  Many forum members growing in ground, and located in Zone-7, have lost many fig trees and in some cases, whole collections have been wiped out, over the last few, terribly cold, winters.  BTW....fig trees do not need a "chill effect" to grow figs.

Posted on this forum are many suggestions regarding the winter protection of fig trees.  Personally, I would NOT plant young trees into the ground, given your climate, but instead, I'd containerize them, and store them in a cool garage.  If possible, keep the young trees cool enough to stay dormant, but just warm enough to prevent freezing.  Also, keep the root-ball hydrated and damp.

Good luck with your new trees.


Frank

Subject: new member, New Orleans Replies: 16
Posted By: BronxFigs Views: 242
 
Hello, and welcome to the forum.

Suggest you join/read "Dan's Cajun Figs"  It's a fig blog that discusses/critiques the very topics that you mentioned.  Your biggest problems will be rain, humidity, splitting/souring, and winter protection.  All of these topics are covered in postings on this forum, and on Dan's fig blog.

Happy growing.

Frank

Subject: New Fig Care - North East (CT) Replies: 10
Posted By: BronxFigs Views: 272
 
Overwintering:
Store cool enough to keep trees dormant, warm enough to prevent freezing, moist enough to prevent root dehydration, and avoid desiccating winds.  You have to make these things, happen. Bad things will be the result when you don't.   Fig trees need protection in other than tropical/Mediterranean climates.

Suggestions in post #7 are probably your best best...(I'm sure you will be adding more figs to your collection), and storing in a cool, garage is more convenient when the "fig shuffle" starts next spring.  Move your trees out - probably sometime in April - when days are warm, and then move them right back into the cool garage at night.  Daytime out, nighttime in.  Continue this shuffle routine, until temps stabilized, and can support the newly sprouted growth.  Avoid at all costs, any freezing of the new growth.  This can extend your growing/ripening season by about a month, and may allow you to ripen two crops of figs....depending on the variety.  Match the ripening times of each variety to your climate zone.

Good luck.


Frank
 

Subject: I think I killed it... Replies: 11
Posted By: BronxFigs Views: 442
 
If this was my tree I would prune away the whole top, right down to the first side branch, but I would do this pruning next spring, right before bud break....just as the buds start greening up and swelling.  After pruning and staking, the lower side branch will then become the new main-stem and will grow twice as fast because it will now be supported by an already established, root system.  Overwinter this tree in a cool shed or garage, and keep the root-ball well hydrated.  Try to prevent this tree from freezing temperatures.  Fertilize and pinch the hell out of this tree next season.    Grow it for structure, and branching.  The fig production will come later once the basic framework of the tree has been established. 

Don't know what your climate zone is but when a fig tree is grounded, just one bad winter can/will negate all your hard work.  Then you could start over with a new tree...just like most of us who are growing fig trees "untropically".  Seriously, growing in ground fig trees- in any climate that gets temps. lower than 40F - is taking a gamble.  Fig trees are semi-succulents, and when frozen the greenish, newer wood is usually severely damaged.  Freezing temps can kill off even older, established, trees.  If you are lucky, the roots will survive and send up new shoots, but then, you're back to square one.

Hope this helps, and good luck.

Frank

Subject: Fig growing issue- help Replies: 4
Posted By: BronxFigs Views: 131
 
While not the best thing to have happen to a fig tree, especially being so late in the season, the tree will usually recover. 

This exact thing happened to me a few years back.  I forgot to water my tree, and after yellowing, all the leaves all fell off, about one month before onset of dormancy.  I just kept the tree well watered, and fertilized the tree with a VERY low nitrogen/no nitrogen formulation, and prayed.  The tree came through the winter with flying colors, and with no set back.  This containerized tree was overwintered in an unheated storage shed, and I made very sure the root-ball was kept well hydrated.  The following spring, the tree re-sprouted a new set of leaves, right on cue.

Your tree is just a little "shocky", but it should recover....but, handle-with-care.  :)))

Good luck.

Frank

Subject: My Monster Figs Replies: 27
Posted By: BronxFigs Views: 704
 
Rafael... the dark fig is Schar Israel....

...(which I thought would not ripen in a short-season, cool climate).  Live and learn.


Frank

Subject: My Monster Figs Replies: 27
Posted By: BronxFigs Views: 704
 
Thanks Vito !!!!


Frank

Subject: Mission Figs Ripening all at Once? Replies: 2
Posted By: BronxFigs Views: 165
 
When grown well, this fig is hard to beat.  Enjoy Nature's gifts.


Frank

Subject: My Monster Figs Replies: 27
Posted By: BronxFigs Views: 704
 
Hello Vito-

Still remember eating the  fig cookies that you baked and brought to Tim's Fig Fest, a few years back.  It was a pleasure to meet you and your lovely wife.

Just curious.....

1-   Do these three varieties /usually/consistently produce large-sized figs, or, are you having an unusually good fig season, for your climate and growing conditions?
2-   How was the quality of these figs, taste-wise?  You mentioned that you had to pick them because of all the rain, and I sure hope the figs weren't washed out....

In any event, I really loved looking at those monster figs.  The "Long Yellow" really looks like a nice variety.

Good luck and may you harvest continue to yield good things to eat.

Frank

Subject: Pine bark fig cuttings media Replies: 14
Posted By: BronxFigs Views: 1,425
 
Hello members-

I have used "Repti-Bark" that's sold in pet stores and Turface-MVP as a medium in which to start cuttings.  The small, bark chunks are mixed with an equal amount of Turface-MVP, and the cuttings are just simply pushed into this inert medium.  I keep the medium slightly damp, and the cuttings in full light.  I use a large, translucent, plastic storage box with a clear lid, for my rooting chamber.  After rooting, the cuttings just lift out of the loose, crumbly medium, and can be potted up.

I have successfully rooted 2-3 node dormant wood cuttings, and even rooted green cuttings, in this medium.  No mold, fungus gnats, or other problems.  You can even fill a taller soda bottle with this bark medium and shove a longer twig into it.

Just know that the "Repti-Bark" is far more expensive than Pine Bark Mulch/Nuggets, but it's much more convenient to use if mixing a small volume of rooting medium.  When mixed with Turface-MVP is makes for a very light, and airy rooting medium, that hold some moisture.




Frank