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Subject: Looking for Cuttings to Grow in SF Bay Area Replies: 18
Posted By: DWD2 Views: 1,041
 
figicious, 
A good place to start is the California Rare Fruit Growers (CRFG). The Santa Clara Valley chapter maintains Pursch Park Heritage Orchard that has a couple of dozen different fig trees. The annual CRFG scion exchanges have lots of cuttings of different figs available. Each chapter has some pretty fig knowledgable members.

Subject: 1st post and question Replies: 19
Posted By: DWD2 Views: 1,451
 
James,
Welcome! The pH of a media around the roots of an actively growing plant is normally more acidic (low pH) than the surface of the media. There are lots of problems with the probe type pH devices. For those reasons, it is best to test pH with what is called the pour thru method. You do not need an expensive pH meter. You can use pH strips which you can buy here:
http://www.coleparmer.com/Category/pH_Test_Strips_and_Indicators/17466
or try your local swimming pool/spa supply store. I suggest that in addition to a pH 0 - 14 strip you get a pH 5 -9 strip. Your cost is ~$0.20 per test with the strips. I am attaching a file on doing pour thru pH testing that I hope is helpful. An article with some discussion of how roots can impact media pH can be found here:
http://www.gpnmag.com/sites/default/files/Styer1.pdf

You can use dolomitic lime to raise the pH. Be aware that there is significant variation from one lime prep to the next. Its effect is gradual which makes it easy to overshoot if you are in a hurry. Big growers will test the amount of lime require to raise the pH of a media over 4 to 8 weeks prior to planting in it. It's sort of technical, but that is discussed here:
http://hortsci.ashspublications.org/content/42/5/1268.full.pdf+html

Hopefully your repotting solves your problem & this can be useful in helping to avoid repeat problems.

Good luck!

 
Attached Files
pdf NCSU_CE_-_Monitoring_and_Managing_pH_and_EC_Using_the_P...action_Method.pdf (485110, 7 views)


Subject: Thoughts on tissue culture trees Replies: 38
Posted By: DWD2 Views: 1,833
 
Harvey,

Have you heard if or how Duarte plans to determine if their TC trees have eliminated FMD causing viruses? Are they starting with fig meristems from Wolfskill?

Thanks!

Subject: Can anyone identify these? Replies: 1
Posted By: DWD2 Views: 444
 
I came across this blog post that has some unique figs to me pictured.
http://blogs.smithsonianmag.com/adventure/2012/09/figs-kiwis-persimmons-and-avocados-take-your-pick-of-national-fruit-tastings/

Has anyone seen figs like those in Figs of Parnonas picture, particularly the 2nd and 4th from the top or have them in their collection? Also, did anyone at last year's tasting get to try the unique figs from Ventura county? Thanks!

Subject: Can rice hulls replace perlite Replies: 7
Posted By: DWD2 Views: 808
 
Soni,
Yes. These may be useful.
http://www.gpnmag.com/sites/default/files/potentialforricehulls.pdf
http://www.gpnmag.com/finding-alternative-perlite
I can point you towards more technical articles if that might help you.

Bob,
I have PBH in several mixes and have not experienced any mold problem. It could be the difference in climate between Northern California & Kansas City although my bias is to think not. Are sterilized and parboiled the same? Who manufactures your stuff?


Subject: what do you think about this soil mix? Replies: 8
Posted By: DWD2 Views: 571
 
Before you add anything to your soil, I would get it tested. In NY, your state extension or Cornell may do it for free. I know Cornell offers the service. If your soil pH is in a good range, lime addition will be harmful. Composting any area you want to plant a tree typically improves soil qualities. Worm castings are a great source of nutrition and beneficial microorganisms. I do not have experience with kelp meal as a fertilizer. It is not clear what soil improvement you hope to achieve with the peat moss or coir or the vermiculite or the rock dust. My initial take is that they are unlikely to cause any meaningful soil improvement. Good luck!

Subject: Black Ischia Fig,and Observations!!! Replies: 49
Posted By: DWD2 Views: 5,139
 
Based on the 15 SSR (simple sequence repeat, aka microsatellite) loci they use, the scientists at NCGR in the 2010 Genetica publication do not say that cultivars like VdB and Vista are identical. They call them synonymous. They recognize that their analyses do not prove identity. They picked 15 markers that type (or assort) independently of one another. You can understand that 2 markers near each other on the same chromosome would give you the same information relative to differences and allele frequencies. The 15 SSR loci they use for typing in all likelihood capture all 13 fig chromosomes although I see no direct indication of that. That means that at least 2 pair of markers are on the same chromosome but far enough apart that a high enough rate of crossing over events in those chromosomes cause the markers appear to assort independently. This method of typing is an extremely powerful way to capture major genetic differences as chromosomes evolved different variants which were dispersed when the wasps crossed different fig trees and the seeds generated novel trees. When you look at the detailed typing, what you see is that some loci have a number of versions, called alleles, that are commonly used while others have a couple of common alleles and some very rare ones. The details for those geekish enough to be interested are here:
http://sun.ars-grin.gov/~dbmuqs/cgi-bin/export.pl?action=mrkspread&format=html&cropno=192

So, what could drive the differences between synonymous cultivars that people observe? A number of things occur to me. A highly likely possibility is that the mix of FMD (fig mosaic disease) viruses differs between 2 trees. Their impact on every aspect of the tree from ability to tolerate cold weather to fruit quality is poorly understood. But, when examined, FMD infections negatively impact figs. There are other diseases that attack figs that could result in observed differences. For instance, could the taste difference Jon experienced between Orphan, 278-128 & Deanna be that 278-128 & Deanna were a distance apart from the Orphan tree and both had rust infections that year & Orphan did not? Simple misnaming is always a possibility unfortunately. I have only been playing with figs a couple of years, but I have found it really difficult to trace histories of the cuttings I get. Another possibility is that culturing differences could account for variations people observe. Amount of soil nutrition, water & sun exposure could all drive observed differences between 2 identical trees. Another possibility is something called epigenetic effects. During propagation of higher organisms, a section of a chromosome can get "turned off" resulting in the genes in that area not being expressed. If the genes in that area of the 2 sister chromosomes are identical, then you simply lower the expression level of those genes which can cause observed differences. If there are gene(s) in that area of the 2 sister chromosomes are different and one set is silenced, then there is a distinct possibility of an observable difference or differences.

A big benefit of the genetic tests is that it should allow fig lovers to reduce some of the cultivar confusion out there. Some people get unknowns and call them that. Others get them and apply a new name to what is a common fig for a lot of reasons. The level of discrimination afforded by SSRs allow you to say how closely related 2 different fig cultivars are and to group different cultivars into families. The information in the Genetica paper allows me to try to collect figs from different families and ones that help define the range of differences. It also allows me to try to get similar versions of the highest rated figs to try side-by-side. For instance, I want to collect Sucrette, Black Madeira & Gazir for the fun of it (2/3s of the way there). While I do pay attention to differences people note between synonymous cultivars, I decided to not collect them. So, based on Jon's opinion that his Vista performs better for him than his VdB, I got a Vista from him last year and will not get a VdB. No doubt, many will think I am missing out. But that is some of the fun of it.

Good luck with your figs!

Subject: What is the best tasting LSU Fig Replies: 24
Posted By: DWD2 Views: 3,589
 
O'Rourke has published on LSU Gold, Champagne, O'Rourke & Tiger. I am attaching those publications. Hopefully they are useful.

 
Attached Files
pdf HortSci_40;_486_(’LSU_Gold’_fig).pdf (455118, 136 views)
pdf HortSci_45;_310_(‘Champagne’_Fig).pdf (471881, 125 views)
pdf HortSci_45;_826_(‘O’Rourke’_Fig).pdf (482883, 109 views)
pdf HortSci_45;_828_(‘Tiger’_Fig).pdf (480541, 108 views)


Subject: Has anyone who has used rooting hormones (IBA) noticed a delay or absence in sprouting? Replies: 36
Posted By: DWD2 Views: 2,281
 
Axier, Thank you for the link to Hartmann and Kester's Plant Propagation book. That is a great find!

A more complete publication of the one by Sun & Bassuk that you linked from Cornell above is:
http://journal.ashspublications.org/content/118/5/638.full.pdf

My experience with IBA plus NAA is more variable than what some of the others are reporting. Attached is a picture where I used Dip 'n Grow at the 10x dilution. I lightly wounded the cuttings and placed each in the diluted IBA for 60 seconds. I allowed the cutting to dry for a few minutes and then placed in Root Riot cubes. The tray has been incubated at room temperature (~22oC/72oF) out of direct sun light for 12 days now. The 3 columns of cuttings on the left are Conadria (15 total) and the 4 columns on the right are Panachee (20 total). All the cuttings were obtained from the NCGR/USDA at Davis, CA. A number of things are readily observed. First, the Conadria are rooting more rapidly than the Panachee. Second, upon careful examination, 100% of these cuttings are showing rooting and 100% are showing bud break. This indicates to me that there is likely cultivar to cultivar variation in response to rooting homones. It also indicates that bud break in fig cuttings is not necessarily inhibited by IBA + NAA. Unfortunately, I did not have enough cuttings to do a no IBA + NAA control. 

These are cuttings provided to me to run an experiment on the impact salicylic acid may have on FMD. According to Howard Garrison at NCGR, these were left over cuttings stored in their cooler. The lengths and diameters of the cuttings from both cultivars were very similar. I processed them immediately upon receipt and started the rooting process, which brings me to an anecdotal observation. Over the course of the first few months of this year, I collected cuttings from a number of sources. Some of which I started rooting immediately while others I stored in my kitchen refrigerator sealed in plastic bags with a moist paper towel. That machine cycles and has cold pockets. My observation is the longer I stored a cutting in my refrigerator, the poorer it rooted and the poorer the bud break on rooted cuttings. Treatment with IBA + NAA appeared to help rooting even on these cuttings but did not improve bud break. I have a modest collection of well rooted cuttings that I am waiting to see if they will ever bud. I need to ask what the temp setting is for the cooler at NCGR. I assume it is a typical lab piece of equipment with great air flow, good temp control and no cycling for moisture control.

All of this is to say, my take is that there are a number of variables that can contribute to 
successful rooting and bud break. Hopefully, everyone's success will increase as we continue to exchange information and compare notes.

Good luck with your rooting!

Attached Images
jpeg IMG_3717.JPG (225410, 27 views)


Subject: FMV speckled leaves Replies: 9
Posted By: DWD2 Views: 749
 
Wow! That is pretty atypical mottling from what I have seen. Is that a typical leaf from that plant? 

Subject: PH problem Replies: 6
Posted By: DWD2 Views: 586
 
Paul13, Are you measuring pH with a good quality pH meter using the pour through method? It is easy to get an incorrect reading with garden pH devices and/or poor techniques.

There are no good publications that I can find testing optimum pH ranges for fig trees. I have seen reports of productive, in-ground orchards growing in pH 7 & 8 soil. I personally shoot for a pH of 6 to 6.5 for my figs in pots. I have had a number of pots end up around pH 7 without any obvious negative effects. My impression is that figs are tolerant of a fairly broad pH range but do not have data to rigorously support that impression.

Dolomitic lime usually raises pH over a period of weeks. So you need to monitor the pH of your media over time. You might remix the media without lime and retest the pH.

As to your present situation, I would just leave the trees in the present media and monitor the pH weekly to see if the pH rises.

Good luck with your pots!

Subject: Pellitized, powder or granular ?? Replies: 22
Posted By: DWD2 Views: 1,544
 
Pattee, From your posts, it appears you are growing in pots using a pine or fir bark based media. Unfortunately, the use of different limestones to control pH turns out to be a complex subject. You do not say if your material is calcitic or dolomitic limestone. Here is a link to an article that gives a detailed look at variations among different limestones.
http://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1080/00103620701435530#.UYtUZM1pvBI
Because of the significant variation observed in different limestone sources, you are left with either picking an amount to add to your media and hoping for the best or setting-up a series of small pots to test various concentrations of the limestone you want to use in the media you want to use. Although the testing takes several weeks for the media pH to equilibrate, it is easy to do. An article that will help you do that is here:
http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/floriculture/hils/HIL590.pdf 
You will notice in Figure 2 of this paper that there is a wide range of pH optimums from plant to plant in their list. You may also note that some have broader ranges while others have narrower optimum ranges. I have done a lot of looking and I can find no clear study defining an optimal pH range for fig trees. My impression is that fig trees are tolerant of a pretty wide pH range. I have seen publications studying productive fig orchards growing in pH 8 soil.

The notion that there is a 1 pH unit difference between fig trees or other plants grown in the ground versus in pots is incorrect. As far as I can tell, this notion originates from a paper published by Lucas & Davis in 1961 in the journal Soil Science. In that paper, they demonstrated that the ideal pH ranges for the mineral soil they used versus wood-sedge soil and sphagnum peat soil was about 1 pH unit different. As science progressed, it was realized that pH difference observed was driven by CEC, nutrient and micro-nutrient differences between the mineral soil and the other two, but NOT due to some inherent difference in a plant grown in a pot versus the ground. It is amazing to me that this notion is still put forward by anyone.

If you really want to understand pH management, I highly recommend this book:
http://store.meistermedia.com/understanding-ph-management/ 
It will be $20 well spent. If you prefer free stuff, the Horticultural Departments at the University of Florida and North Carolina State University have excellent web sites with tons of high quality, dependable information.

Good luck with your trees!


Subject: issues with container soil. Replies: 45
Posted By: DWD2 Views: 1,858
 
naikii, They look like they could be OK. However, I can not stress it enough, that you are really gambling, hoping for the best if you do not test the pH & Electrical Conductivity (EC) of any potting mix you create OR buy pre-mixed. Most CHC and coir dust is well washed these days, but that does not mean the bag or compressed block you bought was. Quality control in this industry is spotty at best. In retrospect. I should have kept a record of the out of spec mixes and components I have encountered over the past few years after I started checking using the pour through method. Bad stuff is not rare. You can also test a mix by trial and error, which is probably what most people do. Make a mix, put a young fig tree in it and see what happens over 3 or 4 weeks.

Good luck!

Subject: Crystal Company ? Replies: 4
Posted By: DWD2 Views: 707
 
Steve, Try 636-230-7259. Their most recent container of stuff just arrived this week. The woman who answers has a Chinese accent & may be hard to understand at first. Good luck!

Subject: issues with container soil. Replies: 45
Posted By: DWD2 Views: 1,858
 
Steve, Yes, I use the small size. I have used the medium, but switched to the small a couple of years ago when they were briefly out of medium. I saw no obvious difference in performance, but never did a side-by-side comparison. All three sizes they sell are the same, $55 per bale. They also sell a smaller, 20 oz coir brick for $5. I know they sell smaller volumes of the CHC. You can email them (crystal@crystal-company.com) for their product list.

Subject: issues with container soil. Replies: 45
Posted By: DWD2 Views: 1,858
 
greenfig, A bale of small cut (1/8" to 1/4") is $55 which includes shipping. The 14.3 lbs Gro-Brick Coir Block is $20 including shipping.

omotm, I do not use SWCs. I use drip irrigation and grow in air-root-pruning pots from Rootmaker.

Subject: issues with container soil. Replies: 45
Posted By: DWD2 Views: 1,858
 
Pete, Potting mixes are actually a really big subject. Every component has its own plus and minuses both on its own & in combination with other components. I am not a fan of the 5-1-1 media, particularly for trees. I do not like how the water management changes over time. The top layer will dry out if you are not very careful in my experience, which really changes the dynamic of the container. Also, I prefer to grow organically which I find is more of a challenge in 5-1-1 too. My preferences aside, one can use this media and the gritty mix with great success IF properly managed.

In researching growing media, I came across people using coconut husk chips (CHC) for citrus. It is widely used by people growing orchids. The coconut is a pretty interesting entity with properties that are great for potting mixes. If you think about it, coconuts can fall in the ocean and float thousands of miles in the ocean without sinking or breaking down. Yet, if you pluck one out of the water after it has been in there any length of time, it is decidedly waterlogged. The breakdown of the coconut husk is resisted by very high levels of lignin in the husk. The pore structure of the husk is such that it can retain high volumes of both air AND water. I am attaching a discussion of CHC that essentially describes my experiences using CHC. I have apricot and citrus trees in CHC based media going 4 years without breakdown. I have had to root prune and add more media, but the old stuff, which is deeply entwined with roots, is holding up well so far. With a 5-1-1 type, I'd have changed 3 or 4 times.

CHC and coir are different materials. CHC is just chopped up coconut husks. Coir, or more correctly coir dust, is the particles left over after the long coir fibers are extracted from the coconut husk. Coir is being widely used as a peat moss substitute with great results. Coir has good CEC and, like CHC, a high lignin content. So, it is also slow to breakdown. I have used a bunch of CHC mix variations. Right now I am doing 75% CHC, 10% coir, 10% Sunland Potting Mix and 5% worm castings. There is nothing magic about those percentages. I get my media mixes tested to make sure they fall in the ranges of the HortScience paper I am attaching. Yeah, I know, I'm an anal data junkie. I know there are people who report growing in straight CHC or 80 to 90% CHC plus 10 to 20% coir to good effect. If you go with a CHC based mix, your water management will be different. You will use somewhat less water. You may have to change your fertilization regime a bit as this mix holds nutrients better in my experience than bark + peat moss based medias. You can monitor the EC of your flow through to test that. Since I grow organically, I incorporate nutrition in the mix and then top dress after that. Two other things. I do not do the epsom salt soak discussed in the attached PDF about CHC. I do wash in a similar manner to what he describes. I get my CHC and coir from Crystal Company in St. Louis too.

I hope this helps! Happy to try to answer any questions.

Good luck with your mixes!

 
Attached Files
pdf AnTec_Laboratory_(2004)_-_Use_Of_Coconut_Husk_Chips_for_Potting_Medium.pdf (359073, 29 views)
pdf HortTech_15;_747_(Health_Substrates_Need_Physicals).pdf (137363, 17 views)


Subject: Pine bark fines vs Hardwood fines?? Replies: 10
Posted By: DWD2 Views: 2,500
 
Tonycm, In fact, you can use hardwood bark as a potting medium for the most part. Walnut is an exception I am aware of, even when composted. There is a big difference between pine bark & hardwood bark in terms of managing your figs & other plants growing in a mix with hardwood bark. There is a significantly lower level of lignin in hardwood bark than pine or fir bark. So, hardwood bark breaks down more quickly in a potting mix than pine bark. Also, because pine & fir bark have a low pH, you typically need to add lime to those potting mixes to raise the pH which assures a supply of calcium to the plant.

You may find the attached PDF from the horticulture group at North Carolina State University helpful in making your potting mix decisions. There are several pages discussing pine & hardwood barks starting on page 11. Enjoy!

 
Attached Files
pdf NCSUCE_-_Container_Soils_and_Soilless_Media.pdf (414270, 53 views)


Subject: issues with container soil. Replies: 45
Posted By: DWD2 Views: 1,858
 
Pete, Long day. I will get a more detailed post out later today or Sunday. CHC and coir are different. CHC are chunks of a chopped-up coconut husk. Coir is the dust that results from processing the husk for long fibers of the husk. 

Subject: issues with container soil. Replies: 45
Posted By: DWD2 Views: 1,858
 
Pete, You might consider trying a media mix that uses coconut husk chips (CHC) instead of bark. There a number of reasons that pine or fir bark based media are not my favorites. Short life span is one. I have citrus trees that have been in the same CHC based media for over 3 years and have not experienced broken-down media as yet. I get my CHC from the Crystal Company in St. Louis.

Subject: Finaly my UCD order is here. Replies: 13
Posted By: DWD2 Views: 948
 
Eden, May I ask when you placed your order ( the date)? Thanks!

Subject: Shipment of Tree Pots came in today!!! Replies: 26
Posted By: DWD2 Views: 1,614
 
Hungryjack, I am unclear on the experiment you suggest in post #9. Do you control for the number of nodes on each 3.5 inch section? I assume you are talking about multiple 3.5" rooted cuttings as opposed to one really long rooted cutting cut into sections. Won't there be meaningful variation in roots and leaves from rooted cutting to rooted cutting? How deep is "deep"? I assume you mean >3.5". Do you anticipate the deep cutting will have to struggle much more than the the shallow cutting to get vegetation above the surface? Why horizontal planting as opposed to vertical? Your suggested experiment sounds as if you have done it or something similar. My experience is a suggestion like this means you've done it yourself before. If so, what did you see?

You seem to be well read on the subject of roots and producing young trees that thrive upon moving out of pots into the ground. It would be helpful to me, and I think others, if you could provide links or PDFs or scientific journal citations. I for one really enjoy reading primary sources of information. Thanks!

Subject: Fig book - Variedades de Higuera Replies: 3
Posted By: DWD2 Views: 740
 
Ingevald, great find. From the preview, it looks like there is a ton of information. The list of germ plasm repositories alone is worth the cost. How did you stumble on this? Thanks for pointing it out to the forum!

Subject: Here We Go FMV... Sorry... Replies: 12
Posted By: DWD2 Views: 925
 
Harvey is correct. There is a significant temperature differential between an in-ground plant's roots and the above ground portions. The plant's roots act as a reservoir for FMD viruses. Suzi's plant's roots in the pot sound as if they got to a much higher temperature than had they been in ground. The 1998 ActaHort paper by R. Gella et al describing thermotherapy of fig apical meristems references 2 papers from 1966 & 1978 that report the generation of "healthy fig plants" by the use of "traditional thermotherapy." It sounds as if Suzi is a traditionalist!

Subject: 1 year has passed test results in Replies: 3
Posted By: DWD2 Views: 552
 
Richard, Thank you for sharing your results! As you surmised and Figaro pointed out, the mineral/ionic composition of the 2 water sources are likely to be different. Associated with a potential pH difference that Figaro notes, your city water may be seriously alkaline. A terrific explanation of those 2 factors is in the attached pdf. A high pH with low alkalinity is not so bad. High pH with high alkalinity is another matter. If you want to test the alkalinity yourself, a good, accurate, easy to use & fairly cheap test kit is:
http://www.hach.com/alkalinity-test-kit-model-al-ap/product?id=7640220951&callback=bc

However, your water provider tests for all those things plus more. They know the pH, alkalinity, mineral composition, microbiological composition, etc. You can call them and request their test results. Whether they will tell you is another matter entirely. Some water service companies will and some will not. It is worth a phone call or two. If they do share, adding that info to this thread would be helpful I think.

Thank you again for reminding the forum that water quality makes a real difference!

 
Attached Files
pdf NCSUCE_-_Alkalinity_Control_for_Irragation_Water_Used_in_Greenhouses.pdf (50134, 15 views)


Subject: watering at am or pm? Replies: 10
Posted By: DWD2 Views: 663
 
I agree with Pete & Suzi. As a general principle, morning is the preferred time to water plants. The stomatal openings on the leaves are open during the day to allow for gas exchange (CO2 in, O2 out). Water vapor is lost when the stomata are open. The stomata close at night since photosynthesis stops with the absence of light. Which means there is no need for gas exchange and no water loss. Your trees are doing most of their water use during the day. A reasonably good book I use that is pretty easy to follow and answers a lot of this sort of growing question is:
http://www.amazon.com/Botany-Gardeners-Edition-Brian-Capon/dp/160469095X/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1364883829&sr=8-1&keywords=botany+for+gardeners

As to all the factors to consider, I think Suzi's list is pretty complete.

Good luck with your trees!

Subject: Here We Go FMV... Sorry... Replies: 12
Posted By: DWD2 Views: 925
 
Suzi, Heat regimes (thermotherapy) are reported to eliminate FMV in tissue culture of apical meristems. One of the reports has the temperature of the culture shifting from 94oF to 104oF (35oC & 40oC) during the light/dark periods every 24 hours for several weeks. So, you may have eliminated the FMD causing virus(es) from your tree after all. Cool! I will be interested to hear if the FMD free phenotype holds-up.

Subject: Worm Castings Replies: 39
Posted By: DWD2 Views: 2,359
 
Another excellent resource about worms & vermicompost is this:
http://www.bae.ncsu.edu/topic/vermicomposting/
They also have a terrific resources page listing resources in different states:
http://www.bae.ncsu.edu/topic/vermicomposting/vermiculture/directory-by-state.html

Subject: consisting of many varieties of fig rooting Replies: 4
Posted By: DWD2 Views: 497
 
aliok1, I am sure a lot of us would love to hear more details on your village's project. Which figs did you choose and why did you choose them? What are you going to do with all the new trees?

Good luck with the project!!

Subject: Soil Question & watering Replies: 16
Posted By: DWD2 Views: 808
 
I agree with Pete that you do not need drainage rock. They serve no purpose in reality. If you have a 12 inch tall container and put in 2 inches of rock, you now have a 10 inch tall container in terms of how you growth media behaves. The drainage holes in your container supply the avenue for water drainage. Rocks are unnecessary.

If you really want to understand potting soils and the choices that are out there, I would encourage spending some time on the North Carolina State University Crop Science website.
http://www.nurserycropscience.info/
In my opinion, these people are the best in the world at understanding and developing potting soils for growing in containers. A couple of links that I find really helpful are:
http://www.nurserycropscience.info/substrates/pine-bark/other-references/container-soils-and-soiless-media-bilderback-1982.pdf/view
http://www.nurserycropscience.info/substrates/physical-properties/technical-pubs/bilderback-et-al-2005-healthy-substrates-need.pdf/view

I would advise against listening to the advice of Tapla. He has a couple of formulas out there for 2 media (5-1-1 and gritty) that will work with the right amount of attention. You can follow his empirically derived instructions and be successful. Most of his scientific explanations are simply wrong and unfortunately very misleading if you wish to understand how potting soils function to be a very successful grower. I apologize for bringing up negative stuff. But, my observation is people who encounter problems based on factors that are poorly understood by Tapla are not treated very nicely and usually receive no help. Others may disagree with that opinion.

Subject: Some thoughts/info on potting mixes Replies: 34
Posted By: DWD2 Views: 2,778
 
Chapman, Thanks! My knowledge about cereal grain anatomy is slim.

Subject: Re-Using Soil and Storing Moss Replies: 6
Posted By: DWD2 Views: 578
 
I would use new potting soil. The old soil has microorganisms in it that have killed your cutting(s). I would not deliberately expose newly rooted cuttings to those same pathogenic microbes. I agree with Eli. Well established trees are less problematic.

Subject: Some thoughts/info on potting mixes Replies: 34
Posted By: DWD2 Views: 2,778
 
Harvey, Get to researching and you discover where your understanding is off. Here is a good explanation of the process of creating parboiled rice and the parboiled rice hulls that are a by product.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parboiled_rice
So, the husks (bran) themselves are apparently not treated after removing the rice in this process. It looks like any rice miller that produces parboiled rice should have the parboiled hulls. This is the best list I have found to date about millers in the US. 
http://www.usarice.com/index.php?option=com_membership&view=suppliers&layout=supplier&Itemid=147
This is a better list of California millers. My guess is the product they call "stabilized rice bran" is parboiled hulls.
http://www.calrice.org/Industry+Info/For+Industry+Members/Commercial+Contacts.htm
If you can find a California source through any of your contacts, that would be WAY cool. There are clearly rice millers in California producing parboiled rice. What they are doing with them is anybody's guess.

Subject: Some thoughts/info on potting mixes Replies: 34
Posted By: DWD2 Views: 2,778
 
Harvey, That should work. There should be no shortage of rice hulls in northern California. The boiling inactivates left over rice grains and weed seeds. The people at riceland have figured out how long the hulls need to be at boiling to accomplish that. That may be in some of the papers I have. I'll double check to see if I can find that number.

Gina, The boiling is apparently required to inactivate rice seeds and weed seeds. There may be some other desirable, physical changes to the hulls caused by parbroiling. 

Subject: Some thoughts/info on potting mixes Replies: 34
Posted By: DWD2 Views: 2,778
 
Harvey, I got my PBH from a local hydroponics store as a special order. They are considering (they say) stocking it. We'll see. The manufacturer is Riceland:
http://www.riceland.com/coproducts/pbh.asp
A online source is this:
http://www.hhydro.com/PBH-Rice-Hulls.html
Be forewarned that the shipping fees are way more than the PBH which is why I went with the special order. I bit the bullet a bit, but I am so tired of screening perlite to remove dust & small bits. 

I put worm castings in the mix I pot my rooted cuttings in. The goal is to have the neutral & beneficial microorganisms provided by the worms crowd out any pathogenic microbes. The thinking is similar to encouraging patients to eat a lot of active culture yogurt after a significant course of antibiotics. You are hoping to repopulate the empty spaces with less aggressive microbes before any aggressive, overtly pathogenic ones can get established and start causing problems. One could test to see if there is a benefit in a transplant situation where you get appreciable root damage and plant death due to root rot following potting rooted cuttings. My limited experience with my figs this year is that I have not lost a plant as yet following potting the rooted cuttings. We will see what the rest of the rooting season shows.

Subject: Some thoughts/info on potting mixes Replies: 34
Posted By: DWD2 Views: 2,778
 
Harvey, PBH are reported to be pretty sturdy. They compost very slowly which is why they are typically burned as opposed to composted. Note that most of the scientific papers use growth media with as few components as possible to reduce potential variables in their systems. The point I take away is that perlite and PBH are functionally equivalent. The PBH appear to be durable enough that the other components of your potting media will degrade before the PBH. You also get to avoid having to remove perlite dust before mixing and dealing with perlite getting crushed in your mix. I have not used PBH yet, but I just received a 50 lb bag. So, they are going in my next mix instead of perlite. Just to be silly, here are more PBH papers:
http://horttech.ashspublications.org/content/20/5/863.full.pdf+html
http://hortsci.ashspublications.org/content/39/2/232.full.pdf
http://horttech.ashspublications.org/content/17/3/312.full.pdf+html
http://horttech.ashspublications.org/content/18/3/384.full.pdf+html
http://horttech.ashspublications.org/content/18/4/644.full.pdf+html
http://horttech.ashspublications.org/content/18/4/650.full.pdf+html

I have no reason to doubt your diagnosis as to why you lost a few cuttings when you potted them. Saturated media is saturated media. It is worth noting that the symptoms you describe are also consistent with microorganism mediated root rot. I am only throwing it out as a possibility to add to your calculus. It is my personal opinion that it is very difficult to add potting soil on top of rooted cuttings without causing a least some micro damage to the roots. Just as minor cuts can result in life threatening infections in people, fortunately very rarely, minor damage to plant roots is also known to sometimes result in adverse effects for the plant due to infection. As I say, I am only throwing it out as another possibility for folks to consider should they encounter problems upon potting their rooted cuttings.

I just joined CRFG this past year. Thanks for the feedback on the other exchanges. I had no idea that all the groups depended on Prusch for their fig cuttings. I volunteered this year & helped mark the trees to use at Prusch for cuttings/scion with Karl Gross.  It was really cool seeing all the different cultivars in the orchard. I saw your email telling the CRFG members about Bass's stock of the Pons fig book for sale. That was a really nice, classy thing to do!

Over 100 fig trees in pots. Wow! Good luck with them!


Subject: Which soil would you use for pots? Pics to choose from... Replies: 18
Posted By: DWD2 Views: 1,449
 
Rob, If you have a potting mix that is well constructed, it will drain adequately and the perched water table becomes something to manage ONLY in the case of VERY shallow containers. This fact has been understood since the 1970's. I am attaching a pdf by Art Spomer, the scientist who first described perched water table and its management, that I hope is helpful. There are an almost unlimited array of potential mixes out there, including the 5-1-1 & gritty mixes, that can be used to grow figs in the typical 1 to 15 gallon containers people use. If you are managing the more critical requirements for the health of your fig tree, or any other plant, no attention will be required to manage the PWT. The 5-1-1 & gritty mixes drain so well that they really help PWT management in very shallow containers, but mean you have to water more and more frequently in taller containers. So, there is a trade-off. I find it very unfortunate that people on these forums have been SO misinformed about PWT that they severely limit their container media choices.

Frank, I have attached a pdf from the horticulture group at North Carolina State University, who, in my opinion along with the University of Florida, have the best horticultural scientists in the world. It is the best short primer on potting soils I have found. I hope it is of some use to you in your potting mix decision process. There is even a figure describing Art Spomer's famous sponge explanation of the effect of container height on the perched water table.

Good luck with your figs!

 
Attached Files
pdf OrnamentalsNW1;_9_(container_soils_-_Spomer).pdf (672017, 45 views)
pdf NCSU_CE_-_Container_Soils_and_Soilless_Media.pdf (414270, 46 views)


Subject: Some thoughts/info on potting mixes Replies: 34
Posted By: DWD2 Views: 2,778
 
Harvey, You are opening a very big subject. The amazing thing to me is that there is an absolutely TREMENDOUS amount of high quality science available to help you make great soilless media decisions. A huge amount of work has been done & continues to be done to support the greenhouse industry. Yet, many/most people on these forums are unaware of all the information out there. Many end-up trying advice that, while very well intended, is based on anecdote with little understanding of what is really going on. Happily, most plants, and figs in particular, are pretty forgiving of broad variation in growth conditions.

It is a common theme on this forum and the gardenweb forum to blame over watering for plant deaths. Assuming you have a media whose parameters fall within the suggested ranges for horticultural use: total porosity (50% to 85%), air space (10% to 30%), container capacity (45% to 65%), available water (25% to 35%), unavailable water (25% to 35%) and bulk density (0.19 to 0.7 g/cubic cm), then overwatering should be pretty difficult. You'd almost have to try. There is a lot of concern on these forums about the perched water table. If your growth media falls within the parameters listed above, PWT will only become something that requires active management if you are growing in a VERY shallow container. Anyway, I really doubt you killed any of your potted-up cuttings due to overwatering. My guess would be that those that died were killed by pathogenic microorganisms getting into the plants via small wounds in the roots generated during the potting process. If not that, next on my list of possibilities would be media components in some of your mixes causing toxicity. In my experience, the biggest challenge in container media is not water management, but pH management. I would bet big money that far, far more plants are damaged by poor pH management than by poor water management. Attached below is a pdf discussing managing container substrates.

IMO coconut coir and coconut husk chips are terrific media components. You are talking about a very high percentage of perlite in your media, far more than should be necessary. You might also consider replacing the perlite with parboiled rice hulls. See attachments.

Tannins in fir bark should not be a problem. See attachments.

The horticulture group at North Carolina State University is really excellent. They have a TON of high-quality, authoritative information on their various web sites. I have attached a couple of their things you may find helpful.

It is too bad I did not know you were at the Santa Clara CRFG scion exchange in January. We were probably grabbing the same cuttings. Did you make it to any of the other exchanges? If so, how were the cutting selections?

Good luck with your media!

 
Attached Files
pdf HortTech_15;_747_(container_substrate_breakdown).pdf (137363, 31 views)
pdf HortSci_44;_874_(The_Effect_of_Physical_and_Hydraulic_P...s_Substrates).pdf (490533, 13 views)
pdf HortSci_45;_643_(Physical_Properties_of_Ground_Parboile...ot_Substrate).pdf (609207, 6 views)
pdf Grower_Talks_-_Rice_Hulls_101_(01:08).pdf (242944, 16 views)
pdf NCSU_CE_-_Container_Soils_and_Soilless_Media.pdf (414270, 17 views)
pdf NCSUCE_-_Substrate_pH_and_Water_Quality.pdf (126846, 13 views)


Subject: MG Organic Choice - All Purpose Plant Food Replies: 6
Posted By: DWD2 Views: 657
 
I would not use this product under any set of circumstances. It appears to be completely derived from sugar beet molasses. Sugar beets produce what is referred to as a "nonprotein amino acid" called azetidine-2-carboxylic acid (Aze) which is a congener of the protein amino acid proline. Aze is concentrated in sugar beet molasses which is a by product of processing the beets for sugar. Sugar beets produce Aze in the beet root (where the sugar is) but not in the beet greens. Aze acts as an anti-microbial agent to kill soil microorganisms that want to get at all the sugar in the beet and also serves as a reservoir for nitrogen storage for the plant. From my point of view, a significant attraction to growing organically is to replicate the complex growing conditions that plants are programmed to grow in. That includes symbiotic relationships with soil microorganisms like mycorrhizae that allow complex nutrients to be broken down & mobilized for your fig trees. The use of an anti-microbial like Aze will kill the beneficial microbes in your plant media. Why would you want to do that whether you grow organically or not? It is clear this product does not supply P or K. It is unlikely to supply many/most/all of the micronutrients. So, it is apparently a N source only. I'd prefer to use feather meal or blood meal for that. Another observation is that this product is made in France & shipped to the US. How dirt cheap a reagent is the beet molasses to allow that? Also, there are toxicities associated with Aze in other systems. I would guess that the people at Scott used short-term assays to test this product and did not see the longer-term downsides you would anticipate.

As an alternative, you might consider a vermicompost tea. You can get bags of worm castings, make sure it is labelled "100% worm castings," at most hydroponics stores. Put a hand full in a few gallons of water, let it sit a day or two and start feeding your plants. A paper is attached talking about vermicompost tea with pak choi (hey, it's a plant too) that will point you towards more of the science on vermicompost.

bullet08 summed it up about fertilizer as a subject!

Good luck with your cuttings.



 
Attached Files
pdf JSciFoodAg_89;_2383_(Vermicompost_extracts_influence_gr..._in_pak_choi).pdf (173509, 6 views)


Subject: Black Madeira fig Replies: 106
Posted By: DWD2 Views: 14,838
 
Harvey,

I would be pretty interested to learn what technology your friend is talking about. I do molecular genetics in my professional life. SSR (simple sequence repeats) is currently the typing that gives the most discrimination, most cost effectively for plants. I think I am fairly current, but I'm always ready to pick up something new as plants are my hobby and not my area of focus. i am not exactly sure what she means by field testing. If she is talking about walking up to a tree, clipping some leaf tissue and getting an ID in a few minutes on the spot, I do not think that is currently possible unless possibly in a very specialized case. Certainly all the cultivar typing for figs and all sorts of other cultivated plants that I am seeing in the current scientific literature are based on laboratory DNA testing methodologies with PCR based SSR typing being the by-far dominant method.

I do think we all will agree a cheap, quick way to type cultivars and stop fig name explosion would be a real help. Like a lot of DNA testing, differences observed by SSR typing demand that the two cultivars are different. But identity by SSR typing does not insure that two cultivars are the same. Even if you observed complete identity with total genome DNA sequencing, that does not mean that two plants derived from the same ancestor will be phenotypically identical. Epigenetic effects are well known in plants (but not studied in figs to my knowledge) and silencing a section of one chromosome can have a significant impact on a plant. Isn't complexity wonderful?

Subject: Black Madeira fig Replies: 106
Posted By: DWD2 Views: 14,838
 
The Black Madiera (DFIC 144) was donated on 15 January 1988 by C. Todd Kennedy of the CRFG to the NCGR. He sourced it from a collector in California as I understand it. Jon or others may have more of the details of the history of this cultivar.

The ARS-GRIN.com web site lists the donation history for all the ficus carica accessions at the Davis NCGR. It also lists the actual molecular typing data/results for the DNA typed accessions. In the case of Black Madeira, 14 SSR loci were typed. The PCR primer sequences are also listed as well as the exact PCR reaction conditions. So, it would be very easy for any DNA typing lab to type any sample you provide them. I do not know if anyone has gotten a quote from any of the labs out there, but I bet it is fairly expensive. The costs are all up front for a typing lab. Assuming they have PCR machines and the proper electrophoresis equipment to resolve the DNA fragments generated in the PCR reactions, their costs are buying the plant DNA isolation kit, the PCR primers, the Taq polymerase to run the reactions and the labor. You can do dozens of typings from the original reagents purchased. As I said, all their major costs will be up front. Of course any cultivars found to be synonyms by DNA typing will generate a lot of debate about the resolution of the DNA typing and whether 2 synonyms are really the same. My personal approach is to not collect multiple synonyms by DNA typing even if others' experience is they believe they are different.

Anyone who knows more about the history of Black Madeira should feel free to jump in!

Subject: Paper Towels vs. Moss Replies: 28
Posted By: DWD2 Views: 1,660
 
Hank, There are a lot of potential explanations for what you observe. To fairly compare rooting results in moss vs paper, you need to treat pairs of cuttings of a number of cultivars identically & root one of each in moss and one of each in paper towels. In your case, the rapid rooting upon moving to a paper towel rooting environment might be simply that the cuttings were primed in the moss and would have gone on and rooted in the moss on a similar time schedule. The humidity level created by the 2 approaches is almost certainly different in the micro area right next to the cuttings. That could drive the difference. Your cuttings appear to have received a variety of treatments, some are scared, some are not scared, some were treated with Clonex, some were not. Pete's question about variation in rooting temperature is an important one. Whatever the underlying cause(s) for your new roots, it is a great result!!

Subject: some rooting observations Replies: 3
Posted By: DWD2 Views: 580
 
Pete,
My rooting is at a pretty constant 73oF. Slightly below your rooting temp. It could drive the difference, but I'd really like to see the result in some good quality, controlled temp incubators. I meant to add above that my times to root appearance may be due to how I store my cuttings prior to rooting. They are kept in a refrigerator that is kept pretty cool (1oC, 34oF). So, the impact of that temperature may delay the cutting from "waking-up" for lack of a better way to say it. Experiments for next year maybe.

Bob,
I am a Mac person, but I will try to find a way to resize. I am going to root all my cuttings. So, I may be able to help you with your wish list. Remind me in mid-April. I got a bunch of cuttings from Todd Kennedy of the CFRG who is responsible for over half of the NCGR collection. They are really more like branches instead of cuttings. Once I get my NCGR/Davis cuttings and I decide what I am going to allocate to what experiment, I will have a better idea of how many of each cultivar I should have to root for distribution.

Subject: some rooting observations Replies: 3
Posted By: DWD2 Views: 580
 
I have been doing some quick & dirty rooting trials in preparation for doing more complete, better controlled comparisons over the next couple of months. I do have a few preliminary observations worth sharing.

I have been trying slicing & scraping, dipping in rooting hormones and the Root Riot system Rafed discovered versus sphagnum moss. I am repeating the observations made by ascpete, octopusinc, james and others that rooting hormone gives more roots more quickly. It is happening for me more slowly than others have reported. I am not seeing roots with hormone under any of the conditions I have tried in 7 to 10 days. The roots on my cuttings, and that is over 25+ cultivars, take 3 to 4 weeks with hormone whether in sphagnum moss or Root Riot cubes.

I tried 6 different cultivars, 3 cuttings each, with an unsliced cutting and a cutting sliced 4 times around dipped for 30 seconds in 10x Dip 'n Grow plus a cutting sliced and not dipped following the notions discussed in this thread:
http://figs4funforum.websitetoolbox.com/post/Fig-Rooting-Hormone-and-None-a-comparison-6155695
I observed no benefit to slicing. I observed a major benefit to Dip 'n Grow.

I have tried the Root Riot system (major KUDOS to rafed for discovering this by the way!!!!!) with and without Dip 'n Grow. I am repeating the observation made by james in this thread:
http://figs4funforum.websitetoolbox.com/post/Clonex-vs.-No-Clonex-in-Root-RIot-Cubes-6232989
That is my hormone treated cuttings put out roots much faster than the non-hormone treated. I actually have pictures of the side-by-sides but I forgot to drop the resolution on my camera and can not get the 2 MB jpegs to post on this site. Anyway, the difference I observe is dramatic.

I also tried scraping 6 pairs of cuttings down to the cambium layer using fork tines and treating with either Dip 'n Grow or Clonex as discussed in this thread: 
http://figs4funforum.websitetoolbox.com/post/Rooting-method-expierments-2012-and-2013-6146671
My impression is that Dip 'n Grow is marginally more effective than Clonex but both are dramatically better than no hormone. As part of this test, I have an interesting observation. The area of root production on scrapped cuttings is restricted to the scrapped area, NOT the dipped area. The attached photo shows 2 cuttings (Longue d'Aout and Col de Dame Noir) scrapped & hormone dipped. As you can see, the rooting is restricted to the scrapped areas. The scrapping on the left cutting is clearly shorter than the right. Both were dipped in the dilution cup provided with Dip 'n Grow at a height well above the scrap heights. I plan on scrapping my next set up to that dipping level. As we all know, it is all about the roots. My bias is that a longer, more densely rooted area of the cutting will allow quicker growth of a healthier tree. I would also guess that many fewer rooted cuttings would be lost in the initial growth phase following rooting. 

I am going to repeat these experiments being more thorough about noting dates and documenting the progress with photos. Still, I hope these preliminary observations are useful.

I want to thank rafed, ascpete, octopusinc, james and all the other who have posted their observations about rooting cuttings! It is a big help to us all.

Good luck rooting your cuttings!

Attached Images
jpeg IMG_3450.JPG (653181, 53 views)


Subject: Rooting Experiment: Using Alcohol to aid root formation Replies: 36
Posted By: DWD2 Views: 3,039
 
Pete,
I want to check that I am seeing the picture in your post #24 correctly. It appears that the roots on the hormone treated samples are restricted to the bottom of the cuttings in the area of the hormone treatment. The roots on the non-hormone treated samples appear to be distributed up and down the cutting particularly at the nodes. 
Am I seeing your photo correctly?
If so, any ideas as to why the difference in distribution or why no roots at nodes on the hormone treated cuttings?
Thanks!






























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3

Subject: Colchicine and Figs Replies: 19
Posted By: DWD2 Views: 1,214
 
Frank - Yes, the colchicine used to treat gout is very toxic. It is used on patients with acute gout when non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (NSAIDs) and corticosteroids are contraindicated or not tolerated. Even with the low doses used, studies show dropping the dose received over 24 hours from 4.8 mg total to 1.8 mg total reduces the adverse effects of nausea, vomiting and/or diarrhea observed in 77% of patients to just 26% of patients. It can get into you either via inhalation or absorption. Inhalation is extremely dangerous. A patient with acute gout is currently prescribed three 0.6 mg pills to take over a few hours. As I understand it, patients need to get new doses as acute gout flares happen. Note that gout is not my expertise, my understanding might be dated even though I doubt it. Anyway, you should not be able to get your hands on any very easily. Brushing it on a bud is unlikely to give one a useful result. At best what you will generate is a shoot with mixed cell types, some diploid (2n), some triploid (3n) and some tetraploid (4n). As far as safety goes, I have used it and colcemid from time to time in my lab. I would only use them in a controlled laboratory environment with established systems for handling and disposing of highly toxic materials.

Dale - Exactly. He did not control for duplication in any obvious way. I would expect to call the 3 triploid plants as individual events and not duplications there must have been something that clearly distinguished the cultivars, green vs bronze vs black figs for instance. Great question. His email is listed. You could contact him and ask.

Stay away from the colchicine!!

Subject: red worms Replies: 15
Posted By: DWD2 Views: 897
 
Instead of worms, you really want to use worm castings. You should be able to get them at any hydroponics store in your area. Make sure to get ones labelled as "100% worm castings." Magical stuff. After rooting, I grow all my cuttings in cups with 10% by volume worm castings, 20% perlite (screened to remove dust) & 70% Gardner & Bloome Blue Ribbon Potting Mix. Since I have added the worm castings, I have not lost a single rooted cutting. VERY happy about that. There is a very big, rapidly growing horticultural science literature on the benefits of worm castings. It is kind of cool because you can watch the opinions of the experts change as they experiment with vermicompost. The group at NC State University went from skeptics to having a staff member whose job is to promote and research vermicomposting in North Carolina.

http://www.bae.ncsu.edu/topic/vermicomposting/

Good luck with your cuttings!

Subject: Colchicine and Figs Replies: 19
Posted By: DWD2 Views: 1,214
 
Dale - Colchicine (or more frequently a slight chemical variant called colcemid) is used to arrest growing cells in metaphase so karyotyping can be done on the condensed chromosomes. As others mentioned above, it is extremely toxic stuff and should not be used outside a well controlled laboratory environment. It is also used to induce polyploidy in plants by treating seeds or plant cells growing in tissue culture. The whole plants generated from those sources can have favorable characteristics in terms of fruit size & yield when compared to normal, diploid plants.

As Mike points out, there is a report of naturally occurring triploid figs. The pdf is attached. Great find Mike!!!

In the case of the fig, it does not appear to be known. In some plants, yes. It IS interesting that naturally occurring triploid figs are seen at an appreciable rate (3 of 44 trees examined). It suggests that triploidy confers some advantage to at least some figs that causes them to be selected for propagation. 

 
Attached Files
pdf Genome_52;_919_(Presence_of_triploid_cytotypes_in_the_c...s_carica_L.)).pdf (170647, 21 views)


Subject: Article on FMV and Stress Replies: 6
Posted By: DWD2 Views: 1,501
 
Mimi,
Good find!

I tried to attach the pdf but it exceeded the forum's size limit. Does anyone have a suggestion? Jon?

Subject: Biofungicide- Bacillus subtilis Replies: 19
Posted By: DWD2 Views: 1,777
 
Noss, earthworms form various humic acids during their process of breaking down organic matter. The humic acids produced by worms have been shown to be superior to commercial humic acids. Worm castings may be the single best nutritional supplement you can add to any potting mix. The attached paper may be of interest to you.

 
Attached Files
pdf EurJSoilSci_42;_S65_(humic_acids_from_vermicompost_&_growth).pdf (425233, 7 views)