Originally Posted by DallasFigs
If you can squeeze even a drop of water out of it.. it's too moist.  If fact, if you completely soak it and squeeze out every last drop, it still may be too moist.. but that's how what I do it.

using a bag? or a box?

Originally Posted by greenfig
What is the benefit of using the long fiber moss vs the brown peat moss? I have been using the peat and found it works just fine. It is easier for me to control its moisture and I can use a bunch of fresh peat every time since it is dirt cheap. What are the cons?

Originally Posted by SoniSoni
no kidding?   I'm on well water, could I grow some? 

Originally Posted by recomer20
The last few I did, I "sushi rolled" in sphag and newspaper in ziplocs and sat upright in a jar (helps keep the scion from sitting in a pool of condensation) on the water heater--great for small quantities. TIP: if working with sphagmoss, wring it out well until moist and springy--too wet and the cutting will water log and rot. PS> Sorry for the free Chevyman advertising. DOH! 

Originally Posted by garden_whisperer
Might have to look into those root riot things

Originally Posted by can_smokva
So far any of the above method including glass jar with water worked for me to produce roots in 1-4 week time depending on the time of the year, quality and variety of the cutting.
After that all of them did really well in large/extra large (star buck) clear cups in 50-70% coarse perlite and 50-30% MG seedling/cutting mix.
The problem occurs about 10-14 days later...
At the stage when:
the secondary roots developed and primary roots are growing up to the "soil" level or all around the cup bottom and with a few leaves developed
just about when "soil" appears to be dry and first watering is needed (all the condensation that used to be visible from day one on the cup walls disappeared),
roots turn brown, I water about 1-2 tablespoon per cup, next day leaves droop, buds turn brown and withdraw.
small flies show up around cups.
cuttings in those cups upon examination had complete bark rot while soil did not appear to be too wet.
Those that survived managed to develop more new white roots beside the brown roots.
All the cups were on the desk under fluorescent light temp 75F plastic tents already removed from cups.
The failure at this stage is from 40% to 80%.
What do I do wrong?
Is browning of the roots normal? How long do roots stay white in colour?

Any response greatly appreciated.

Damir

Originally Posted by gorgi
>>> Seriously...do these wasps carry pollen grains into the figs?  Is that how figs get "Caprified"?

Yes, yes, yes!

Please do some googling about how fig caprification is really done in nature
by a very specialized 'wasp'; often only to one fig species.

Ray Givan refers to fig sex as 'weird sex'.
http://figs4fun.com/links/FigLink006a.pdf

I have only seen the F.carica wasp only once
while visiting my home land in the Med. Sea.
Here is a pic:

Originally Posted by garden_whisperer
I have hardy chicago, on of my best figs. It will do ok outside in ground. It can freeze to the ground and come right back to produce a lot of fruit. I don't even protect mine in winter and have had no damage in 5 years in zone 6b illinois. Can't say that about all my figs.